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-   -   Blu-Benny's Basement/HT! (http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=83986)

Blu-Benny 12-06-2010 06:16 PM

@ 135 hours, my total cost is just over $3,000 so far.

And that should get me everything but the floor……I’ve got about $940 sitting @ home that I’ll be using on the ceiling, and the ceiling should cost in the neighborhood of $750.

So I’ll have close to $200 extra to put towards the floor…..which I can’t decide between tile or that snap together wood flooring.

Only thing I have to find the money for after the floor is in is the trim and the “eye-ball” pieces for the lights.

The insulation also had mail-in rebates so I’ll be using that money for the mud. :rock:

I’m pretty frugal and have been sticking to my budget pretty well on this project.

Beta Man 12-06-2010 06:23 PM

Not sure if it's because of necessity, or personal preference etc.... but have you considered carpet? I would think you could put down a plywood sub-floor pretty cheaply, then pay someone to carpet it, and it would be warm, and nice for a HT in a basement......

I say that, despite the fact that aside from the attic, I wouldn't want carpet in any room in my home..... if my basement were finished though, I'd want it down there.


Have you considered doing cork flooring? I've never worked with it, so I don't know how easy/hard it is to install, but I think the results are great.

MrFattBill 12-06-2010 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beta Man (Post 4106520)
Not sure if it's because of necessity, or personal preference etc.... but have you considered carpet? I would think you could put down a plywood sub-floor pretty cheaply, then pay someone to carpet it, and it would be warm, and nice for a HT in a basement......

I say that, despite the fact that aside from the attic, I wouldn't want carpet in any room in my home..... if my basement were finished though, I'd want it down there.


Have you considered doing cork flooring? I've never worked with it, so I don't know how easy/hard it is to install, but I think the results are great.

Even some indoor/outdoor carpet with some padding under it would be a nice addition....cheap too.

Bill

Blu-Benny 12-06-2010 06:42 PM

I want something that can’t be ruined if :knockonwood: the basement ever gets any leaks or floods.

It hasn’t happened but the house is 50+ years old so I’m planning for the worst.

If it leaks and tile get wet, no big deal, but if carpet gets wet, :panic:

i’d prefer a hard surface and would just lay a rug down in the HT area.

Beta Man 12-06-2010 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blu-Benny (Post 4106616)
I want something that can’t be ruined if :knockonwood: the basement ever gets any leaks or floods.

It hasn’t happened but the house is 50+ years old so I’m planning for the worst.

If it leaks and tile get wet, no big deal, but if carpet gets wet, :panic:

i’d prefer a hard surface and would just lay a rug down in the HT area.

In that case, definitely look at cork.... I was just reading up on it, and it looks like the "floating" type, i.e. snap-together kind, is available. I'm sure it's not going to say "o.k. to use in wet areas" but neither is laminate flooring etc.... I'd imagine it's the same for bamboo, etc.

Deadset 12-06-2010 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blu-Benny (Post 4106616)
I want something that can’t be ruined if :knockonwood: the basement ever gets any leaks or floods.

It hasn’t happened but the house is 50+ years old so I’m planning for the worst.

If it leaks and tile get wet, no big deal, but if carpet gets wet, :panic:

i’d prefer a hard surface and would just lay a rug down in the HT area.

Yeah, I'd probably go cork board or something, if you do get snap together wood flooring, make sure to buy below grade planks so it can handle the moisture / humidity changes. I'm sure you know that being that you are in the northern mid-west like me.

I went carpet in my house for a few reasons. It was built in 06, has good drain tile and sub pump in the basement - which has never been damp. I also got the 8lb per sq in upgrade pad that has anti fungus/molding properties. It REALLY changed the acoustics in the room. I still remember how it sounded after the install...just talking was an improvement...so you'll def need an area rug.

Blu-Benny 12-06-2010 07:14 PM

The real kick to the b@ll$ is that nice tile that is down there now has asbestos in it. :eek: :panic:

Everyone tells me I can’t just put new floor down over the top of the old stuff which doesn’t make sense to me.

If it’s not pulling up, why can’t I put a new one down on top of it??? They all say, what if the old tiles start lifting?? Why would they if they aren’t now?? :shrug: So that’s gonna be the biggest challenge.

If I have to rip it out, it’s gonna be done my way…..w/a mask and the tiles going into the dumpster @ night. :devil:

Blu-Benny 12-06-2010 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deadset (Post 4106712)
Yeah, I'd probably go cork board or something, if you do get snap together wood flooring, make sure to buy below grade planks so it can handle the moisture / humidity changes. I'm sure you know that being that you are in the northern mid-west like me.

I went carpet in my house for a few reasons. It was built in 06, has good drain tile and sub pump in the basement - which has never been damp. I also got the 8lb per sq in upgrade pad that has anti fungus/molding properties. It REALLY changed the acoustics in the room. I still remember how it sounded after the install...just talking was an improvement...so you'll def need an area rug.

Even after putting the insulation in the ceiling and walls, I noticed the acoustics being more quiet when talking. U didn’t get that small “echo” that was there before any insulation was in.

Deadset 12-06-2010 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blu-Benny (Post 4106773)
The real kick to the b@ll$ is that nice tile that is down there now has asbestos in it. :eek: :panic:

Everyone tells me I can’t just put new floor down over the top of the old stuff which doesn’t make sense to me.

If it’s not pulling up, why can’t I put a new one down on top of it??? They all say, what if the old tiles start lifting?? Why would they if they aren’t now?? :shrug: So that’s gonna be the biggest challenge.

If I have to rip it out, it’s gonna be done my way…..w/a mask and the tiles going into the dumpster @ night. :devil:

Hum...who is telling you to rip up the old asbestos tile? is it a depth issue that your wood floor would be too tall if you install it on top of the tile?

Asbestos tile is only dangerous in dust/powder form. My first house was built in 48, so I understand what you're going through.

Blu-Benny 12-06-2010 08:44 PM

I’ve been told that by a couple people….but it was only b/c of the issue if the tiles start lifting underneath the new ones. I’m of the mind set why would that matter if the old tiles are still down??

I’m gonna talk to my uncle who is a home improvement GURU…..he should know what I can/can’t do.

Blu-Benny 12-07-2010 04:43 PM

does anyone know a good way to cut a plastic faceplate w/o breaking it???

i've got that power bridge unit i plan on putting in but only need the plug portion.....there's a 2nd part that has an opening for cables to go through.

i need the part on the left, not the part on the right.

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/5374/img25790.jpg

MrFattBill 12-07-2010 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blu-Benny (Post 4110856)
does anyone know a good way to cut a plastic faceplate w/o breaking it???

i've got that power bridge unit i plan on putting in but only need the plug portion.....there's a 2nd part that has an opening for cables to go through.

i need the part on the left, not the part on the right.

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/5374/img25790.jpg

Hot knife if you have one or score both sides deep with a sharp razor and snap it on the end of a table. Dremmel will work and as long as you cut straight the "melted" parts will pop right off. Band saw should work, you probably have one of those too :D

Bill

Beta Man 12-07-2010 04:51 PM

By hand.... slowly saw through it with a hacksaw....... I'm betting the small teeth of it can eat through it without breaking it if you don't put a lot of force into it...... any sort of cutting/snipping with wire-snips etc. would potentially break it.


Hacksaw and duct tape..... you could build a house that way :D


EDIT:

as mentioned a band-saw would probably work, but I think a hacksaw would be safer.


EDIT: what..... No plasma cutter :D

MrFattBill 12-07-2010 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beta Man (Post 4110911)
EDIT:

as mentioned a band-saw would probably work, but I think a hacksaw would be safer.


EDIT: what..... No plasma cutter :D

Hacksaw would be safer but a with a band saw he could probably mirror that curve on the other side very easily :p

And I agree, everyone needs a plasma cutter :D

Bill

Blu-Benny 12-07-2010 05:00 PM

i've got a hacksaw i might try.

not to worried about the curve on the bottom, if i can get it half assed straight i'll be happy.

Beta Man 12-07-2010 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blu-Benny (Post 4110965)
i've got a hacksaw i might try.

not to worried about the curve on the bottom, if i can get it half assed straight i'll be happy.

You could always hacksaw it, then just use sandpaper to round down the edges a little (if you're worried about it)

Blu-Benny 12-07-2010 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beta Man (Post 4110974)
You could always hacksaw it, then just use sandpaper to round down the edges a little (if you're worried about it)

well i've got the day off today, about to go into the basement actually.

if i get to the point of cutting this apart, i'll be sure to post some pix.

i'll have pix of my progress up 2nite though. ;)

Deadset 12-07-2010 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blu-Benny (Post 4110856)
does anyone know a good way to cut a plastic faceplate w/o breaking it???

i've got that power bridge unit i plan on putting in but only need the plug portion.....there's a 2nd part that has an opening for cables to go through.

i need the part on the left, not the part on the right.

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/5374/img25790.jpg

I used a rotozip with a plastic bit in it...worked very well.

Blu-Benny 12-08-2010 01:06 AM

well, 6 hours later, all of the drywall is up w/the exception of a strip underneath the movie cabinet.

movie cabinet:
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/8923/img2580c.jpg

where the bar will go eventually:
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/161/img2581t.jpg

HT area:
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/2095/img2582mc.jpg

rear speaker wall:
http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/6972/img2583hl.jpg

HT area again:
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/8185/img2584w.jpg

"entertainment area:
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/8440/img2585w.jpg

rear speaker wall again:
http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/1574/img25860.jpg

have a couple pieces to put around the door but that's it.
http://img547.imageshack.us/img547/1893/img2587.jpg

crazyBLUE 12-08-2010 01:15 AM

Looks good Benny :rock: Now the fun part :p Are you ready to start mudding yet ?


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