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Go Back   Blu-ray Forum > Audio > Subwoofers


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Old 01-11-2014, 10:51 PM   #1621
Tom V. Tom V. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trean View Post
He replied and said:
"That is not covered under warranty. It was pulled off when the cable was removed. A new amp can be ordered for 75.00"


I don't even know what that means.

He is implying that the cable was defective in that it was *so tight* on the RCA output jack that when you removed the cable it caused the damage.

Do you have any other connection options on the subwoofer amp? A second RCA input or perhaps speaker binding posts?

Tom V.
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Old 01-12-2014, 01:14 AM   #1622
Trean Trean is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom V. View Post
He is implying that the cable was defective in that it was *so tight* on the RCA output jack that when you removed the cable it caused the damage.

Do you have any other connection options on the subwoofer amp? A second RCA input or perhaps speaker binding posts?

Tom V.
Well that is bull*, I can plug and unplug the cable fine from the "output" RCA style jack.

There is an output (red) beyond that there are no other connections.


I don't understand how I would go about replacing this, he says an amp is $75 and that its all connected but does that mean I have to order an amp and then somehow fix this myself? I am very good with computers both software and hardware but audio subs/speakers is not my comfort area.
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Old 01-12-2014, 06:25 PM   #1623
Tom V. Tom V. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trean View Post
Well that is bull*, I can plug and unplug the cable fine from the "output" RCA style jack.

There is an output (red) beyond that there are no other connections.


I don't understand how I would go about replacing this, he says an amp is $75 and that its all connected but does that mean I have to order an amp and then somehow fix this myself? I am very good with computers both software and hardware but audio subs/speakers is not my comfort area.
Yeah, I'm not saying you are at fault---just thinking that is what he was implying..

If they send a whole amplifier it is usually pretty easy to swap it in. Just remove the parameter screws from the amp place and you should be able to wiggle it loose and pull it away from the sub enclosure enough to remove the wiring(either at the amp or at the woofer terminals).

Do you still have the piece that was pulled off the amp? You may just be able to "press" it back in place. You will need to be careful that the two inner contacts (visible in your first picture) slide into the correct slots.

Tom V.
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Old 01-12-2014, 06:29 PM   #1624
Tom V. Tom V. is offline
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Also, try plugging your sub cable into the *output* jack and see if that works. A mono output is usually not RED in color and I don't understand the value of a mono output in this scenario anyway----just to "daisy chain"? This might be dual inputs with the silk screen of the amp mis-labeled? Worth a shot.

Tom V.
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Old 01-13-2014, 02:26 AM   #1625
Trean Trean is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom V. View Post
If they send a whole amplifier it is usually pretty easy to swap it in. Just remove the parameter screws from the amp place and you should be able to wiggle it loose and pull it away from the sub enclosure enough to remove the wiring(either at the amp or at the woofer terminals).
I haven't ever opened it up before but what your saying makes it seem easy. As for the wiring is it similar to connecting the wiring on the back of the receiver or more complicated. Just worried about wiring it incorrectly. Do I need any special tools?

I can't find the amp on their website so I assume I have to call them up.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom V. View Post
Do you still have the piece that was pulled off the amp? You may just be able to "press" it back in place. You will need to be careful that the two inner contacts (visible in your first picture) slide into the correct slots.

Tom V.
Tried that, doesn't work.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom V. View Post
Also, try plugging your sub cable into the *output* jack and see if that works. A mono output is usually not RED in color and I don't understand the value of a mono output in this scenario anyway----just to "daisy chain"? This might be dual inputs with the silk screen of the amp mis-labeled? Worth a shot.

Tom V.
Tried this, doesn't work. Thanks for the idea though.
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Old 01-13-2014, 02:34 PM   #1626
kurtlingle kurtlingle is offline
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My PA-120 had/has a similar problem.

The inside (metal part) of the RCA popped out, and the white outer part came out, but didn't break. I put it back in and it works... but I don't plan to remove the wire/chord from the plug ever again, if I don't have to (unless I need a longer wire).

Kind of a bummer they don't cover a defect like this (I didn't call or email as I was able to "fix" it myselft). $75 for the amp is a bit cheaper than buying a new one).

Good luck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trean View Post
I haven't ever opened it up before but what your saying makes it seem easy. As for the wiring is it similar to connecting the wiring on the back of the receiver or more complicated. Just worried about wiring it incorrectly. Do I need any special tools?

I can't find the amp on their website so I assume I have to call them up.



Tried that, doesn't work.




Tried this, doesn't work. Thanks for the idea though.
Rec: Yamaha 663 (lossless rocks!!!!) | Fronts: Polk Monitor 60 | Center: Polk CS2 | Polk M30s | Subwoofer: Premier Acoustics PA-120
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Old 01-13-2014, 04:53 PM   #1627
Tom V. Tom V. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trean View Post
I haven't ever opened it up before but what your saying makes it seem easy. As for the wiring is it similar to connecting the wiring on the back of the receiver or more complicated. Just worried about wiring it incorrectly. Do I need any special tools?

I can't find the amp on their website so I assume I have to call them up.



Tried that, doesn't work.




Tried this, doesn't work. Thanks for the idea though.
It should be very easy. There will be two wires connecting the amp to the woofer. The woofer will likely have "push on" terminals. (little spade like terminals). If so, the wires from the amp with have this type of connector on the end...

http://www.parts-express.com/205-(16...0-pcs--095-282

Just slide these onto the spade terminals of the woofer. The amplifier end will likely have the same type of connectors too.

The only way this could be difficult is if the wiring is soldered at some point. This is very rare though.

I would try popping out the amp now. If possible, take a picture of the back of the amp where the broken input is located. We might be able to figure out an easy work around to spending the $75.

Tom V.
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Old 01-13-2014, 08:40 PM   #1628
Trean Trean is offline
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Okay I will see if I can open it up tonight. Might not happen until tomorrow night though as my week is front loaded with work.

One money saving solution since I will never utilize the output is to some how get that to be the input or get the metal piece from the output to utilize on the input.

Last edited by Trean; 01-13-2014 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 01-13-2014, 11:05 PM   #1629
Tom V. Tom V. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trean View Post
Okay I will see if I can open it up tonight. Might not happen until tomorrow night though as my week is front loaded with work.

One money saving solution since I will never utilize the output is to some how get that to be the input or get the metal piece from the output to utilize on the input.
That is what i was thinking too. These connectors are often soldered though. If you are good with the iron...you are all set. If not, I bet a local electronics shop would do the swap for you for 25 bucks or so. Heck, they may be able to pop the loose terminal back in for you in a couple minutes too. If you don't know of any local shops that work on electronics start by looking for "tv service" centers.

Tom V.
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Old 03-10-2014, 02:26 AM   #1630
Trean Trean is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom V. View Post
It should be very easy. There will be two wires connecting the amp to the woofer. The woofer will likely have "push on" terminals. (little spade like terminals). If so, the wires from the amp with have this type of connector on the end...

http://www.parts-express.com/205-(16...0-pcs--095-282

Just slide these onto the spade terminals of the woofer. The amplifier end will likely have the same type of connectors too.

The only way this could be difficult is if the wiring is soldered at some point. This is very rare though.

I would try popping out the amp now. If possible, take a picture of the back of the amp where the broken input is located. We might be able to figure out an easy work around to spending the $75.

Tom V.
Okay I am back! Finally.

I had a lot of real life stuff that precluded me from looking at my sub or barely using my 5.1 surround so it is not like I was missing it.

PA 120 Pics:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...UU&usp=sharing


I am having a hard time deciphering whether I can fix this. As seen in the pictures the metal part of the "in" is missing, that portion of the back corresponds to the green board in the other pictures.

I am not sure what the "amplifier" is. I am not sure the green board comes off, it really should but it appears to be sealed on some how.

Now that it is unscrewed, any advice on how to proceed would be great. Whether it is advice on how I can determine if I can repair this myself with screwdriver and allen wrench (the tools I have) or if I need an iron and some EE knowledge.
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Old 03-11-2014, 12:00 AM   #1631
hootowls hootowls is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trean View Post
Okay I am back! Finally.
Dunno, looks like the RCA jacks are behind that printed circuit board, which, as you mentioned, appears to be sealed in place. The leads to the jacks are almost certainly soldered to that board so an iron would be needed assuming you can unmount that PCB.

I assume his reference to a replacement amp is for the entire back panel unit that you removed.

I recently moved my sub and was very gentle as I'd read these most recent discussions. Even so, the input jack moved in a way that made me hold my breath when I R&R'd the cable. Not sure I can do that many more times without it suffering the same fate as yours.
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Old 10-29-2015, 10:22 PM   #1632
Parasite Parasite is offline
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Just got 2 of the PA-120 replacing a SVS PCi 16-46 and I must say that I don't feel that I'm missing anything and I'm getting more output than I got from the single SVS.

Would highly recommend these subs, got them for $230 a piece and free shipping.
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Old 10-29-2015, 11:45 PM   #1633
kurtlingle kurtlingle is offline
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Nice!

So, 230 shipped?

You might consider getting the subdude or GRAMMA to decouple them from the floor (less rattling of windows, etc)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Parasite View Post
Just got 2 of the PA-120 replacing a SVS PCi 16-46 and I must say that I don't feel that I'm missing anything and I'm getting more output than I got from the single SVS.

Would highly recommend these subs, got them for $230 a piece and free shipping.
Rec: Yamaha 663 (lossless rocks!!!!) | Fronts: Polk Monitor 60 | Center: Polk CS2 | Polk M30s | Subwoofer: Premier Acoustics PA-120
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Old 10-30-2015, 02:12 AM   #1634
Aerodude73 Aerodude73 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurtlingle View Post
Nice!

So, 230 shipped?

You might consider getting the subdude or GRAMMA to decouple them from the floor (less rattling of windows, etc)
Yea, the SubDude works/fits perfectly on Both of my PA-120's

My front PA-120 w/SubDude:

[Show spoiler]SubDude-for-PA120.jpg



Stock photos:






POLK AUDIO: "LIVE IT, BREATHE IT, LOVE IT, BELIEVE IT!"
TV: 70" SHARP 3D/LC-70UQ17U - POLK AUDIO - "7.2" / Center: CS2 - Front: RTiA5's
Surrounds: FXi A6's (Sides), FXiA3's (Rears) - 2 Onkyo SKH-410 DOLBY ATMOS Spkrs / Subs: 2 PA-120's
ONKYO TX-NR838: DOLBY ATMOS (Ready) - Emotiva XPA-3/Gen 2 - OPPO BDP-103D
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Old 11-02-2015, 03:23 PM   #1635
Parasite Parasite is offline
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I'll keep that in mind Have any of you tried to upgrade the sub by making the port longer to tune it lower or upgrading the subwoofer?
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Thanks given by:
Aerodude73 (11-02-2015)
Old 03-06-2016, 09:52 PM   #1636
Parasite Parasite is offline
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So I'm wondering about throwing the Infinity 1262w in there and see if anything is gained. Have any of you tried something similar?

Last edited by Parasite; 03-06-2016 at 10:08 PM.
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Old 04-10-2017, 12:46 PM   #1637
gfmucci gfmucci is offline
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Default 2 PA-120's or one SVS or Hsu?

I have a 20' x 20' detached wood frame garage with open truss ceiling and concrete floor. I would be using these for 100% music. My mains are a pair of Def Tech 8040's.

Wondering how 2, PA-120's would do for $600 compared to 1 SVS or Hsu model for $600 to over $700 in the same space?

The tradeoffs I considered are these:

2 of these: better low frequency distribution across the room; a bit more total output, but not as much sub-25 Hz extension.

1 of the other: spottier low frequency distribution; a bit less total output, but more sub 25 Hz extension.

I have a 31 band graphic equalizer that could be used to reduce the dbs in the 40-50 Hz range and increase 20 Hz levels - I understand the PA-120's response falls off below 35 Hz and is down about 15 to 20 db at 20 Hz. I am hoping that a pair of these would allow me to increase lower frequency output with lower distortion compared to using just a single PA-120.

I am told by Hsu, Rhythimik and SVS techs that just ONE of their $600-$700 subs would be just "barely" adequate for my space. They all wanted me to spend well over a grand to make my purchase really worthwhile - and I'm sure garner a higher profit in the process.

What are your thoughts on the relative value of the trade offs between 2 PA-120's versus one of the other guy's?

UPDATE: I ended up getting one (1) Hsu VTF-2 MK-5 for my 20 x 20 foot space. It is plenty. Never had a reason to crank it beyond 12 o'clock - mostly at 9 or 10. As it is, the bass can be heard a block away I am a firm believer that the manufacturers "sincere recommendation" for 2 subs to adequately "pressurize" a room is full of crud. It may even out the lower bass throughout the room a bit, but with a pair of powered Definitives which each put out 350 watts (which I told them about) plus my amp power, my bass is even enough throughout the room, thank you. Any additional juice would not be worth the squeeze, except squeezing more $$$ out of the consumer.

Last edited by gfmucci; 05-14-2017 at 03:40 AM.
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