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Go Back   Blu-ray Forum > Audio > Subwoofers


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Old 05-24-2014, 10:09 PM   #1961
bhampton bhampton is offline
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Thanks,... I've been listening more to various sources and I like it!

In fact,... I may never leave my ht... I'm having so much fun. Why I built the dedicated space and then waited a decade to do any sort of audio tweaking is now beyond me....
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Old 12-17-2016, 03:54 PM   #1962
gingerbeets gingerbeets is offline
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I'm planning on building a bass trap/sub riser/decoupler, filling it with OC703 fiberglass, and using hockey pucks as feet. My ceiling is 8' 6.5" high. I have a down-firing sub on a hardwood floor.

I have a couple of questions (no pun intended):

1. Should I make the riser exactly 25% of the room height? Do I measure the height to the top of the wood or to the middle of the sub?

2. Since it will serve as a bass trap, should I make a solid wood box, or leave the sides open and just cover them with felt? What about the bottom? I assume I should use 3/4" ply or MDF for the top, and cover with carpet, because that's what everyone does.

3. Should I add longer legs to the sub itself or just use the current rubber feet?
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Old 12-18-2016, 05:18 AM   #1963
AJCxZ0 AJCxZ0 is offline
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You know you can't get away with not giving make, model, edition, finish and other relevant details around here, right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gingerbeets View Post
1. Should I make the riser exactly 25% of the room height? Do I measure the height to the top of the wood or to the middle of the sub?
No. To minimise vertical room modes, simply getting the driver off the floor is sufficient for improvement. Ideally (i.e. in the imaginary room with simple physical characteristics) the driver would be at some non-trivial prime fraction of the distance between the boundaries, e.g. 3/7 or 13/59 or ... but not 2/3 or something approximating closely to a simple fraction like 919/1831.

Quote:
2. Since it will serve as a bass trap, should I make a solid wood box, or leave the sides open and just cover them with felt? What about the bottom?
The energy absorption of the riser is the least significant effect of a riser, so you should prioritise materials and construction over estimated absorption; that is your riser should provide a sturdy platform for your sub*.

The extent to which open or closed sides affect the low frequency waves is likely to be limited.

Quote:
I assume I should use 3/4" ply or MDF for the top, and cover with carpet, because that's what everyone does.
What you want to avoid is having a strongly reflective surface under the driver since that would be much like putting it on a raised floor, my previous comment about construction notwithstanding.

Quote:
I3. Should I add longer legs to the sub itself or just use the current rubber feet?
You should use whatever decouples the sub from the riser sufficiently to avoid direct vibrations. If the sub has rubber feet and/or it's sitting on carpet or other soft material, it should be fine.

Without trying to cover every other detail of sub placement art and science, be sure to consider the other two dimensions of your space. There's not much point using a riser if you put the sub in the corner of your cuboid marble hall.


*[When considering over-engineering, note that the riser for my SVS PC12-NSD is a slightly reinforced cardboard box filled with insulation and wrapped in crushed velvet. It's almost five years old.]
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Old 01-22-2017, 06:32 PM   #1964
ramseyd ramseyd is offline
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Here are some pics of my riser. Only cost about 10.00 to build. 3/4 particle board i found free. The only thing purchased was the memory foam mat which i attached to the top.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg sub riser 2.jpg (96.9 KB, 43 views)
File Type: jpg sub.jpg (96.9 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg 20161206_182721.jpg (95.9 KB, 40 views)
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Old 07-03-2017, 03:16 PM   #1965
Dizmal Dizmal is offline
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Question on this... Big Daddy states the sub should be raised .25 of the rooms height. For me and my 7'2" basement ceiling that means 21.5".

I see a lot of risers only 7-9" tall.. I can't imagine their ceilings are only 3-4' tall.. So does this mean the actual subwoofer driver needs to be at 21.5" of height? and I do not need a riser that is 21" of height?

Just looking for clarification. The formula is simple enough to figure out.. But the height of risers folks are building(early on in the thread and right above) seems to be a bit contrary to this.

Sub is a SVS PB10-ISD which is already on the SVS SoundPath Isolation feet.
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