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Old 12-30-2012, 06:15 PM   #21
Flatnate Flatnate is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badas View Post
There is just too many things that the JVC's are just getting too far behind.

1. Not true 4K.
2. 3D way behind
3. Lamps. Altho supose to be improved. They just can't get consistant white uniformaity. Check out the Lens and Lamp on the Sony 4K. That is a serious machine.
4. HFR. Has been confirmed for the Sony 4K

All those thing combined has pushed me away from JVC and towards the Sony. It might be $11K more expensive. However it means that I don't have to spend $11-$15 more the next year when they finally come to their senses and produce a 4K with HFR.

Ta Dono
Not sure how much JVC is behind, as much as Sony is really trying to push out ahead of the pack right now with the VPL-VW1000. JVC E-shift seems to be a solid stop gap tech with current 1080p content. I agree in that I wish JVC was stronger with 3D, but then I don't really care about 3D so it isn't a deal breaker for me (I'll take that black level performance). I'll give Sony this, they are really trying hard to make sure that this 4k machine is future proof. Hats off to them for that, but at $20k, I would expect that as well. How would someone feed the thing HFR? RedRay? I guess that is a question for a different thread.
JVC DLA-RS20U D-ILA Projector || Pioneer BDP-51FD Blu-ray player || Dishnetwork DTVpal DVR || Onkyo PR-SC5508 AV Controller || Mackie HR824 MKII (LCR) , HR624 MKII (rears)
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:41 PM   #22
Badas Badas is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatnate View Post
Not sure how much JVC is behind, as much as Sony is really trying to push out ahead of the pack right now with the VPL-VW1000. JVC E-shift seems to be a solid stop gap tech with current 1080p content. I agree in that I wish JVC was stronger with 3D, but then I don't really care about 3D so it isn't a deal breaker for me (I'll take that black level performance). I'll give Sony this, they are really trying hard to make sure that this 4k machine is future proof. Hats off to them for that, but at $20k, I would expect that as well. How would someone feed the thing HFR? RedRay? I guess that is a question for a different thread.
I love the JVC. It is basically what I have now. Cineversum Blackwing (Uses JVC parts with changed Lens). I just think when you own and live with a JVC that they don't do the basics right. I would like to see better Lamps like what is used in the Sony 30/50/95 and double the size of the Lens to catch all that pixel detail. They need a re-vamp instead of minor changes.

Ta Dono
Source: iPod 160G in Arcam DrDock, 2x Oppo BDP-103D's (Blu-ray, CD, SACD and DVD Audio), PS3 and PS4.
Amplification: Marantz SR7009(Atmos), 2x Marantz MM7055's (10 amps bi-amping 5 channels).
Speakers (Atmos 5.3.2): 4 x Polk RTiA7's, Polk CSP 1000, 2x Atlantic TLC-8.2, Polk PSW 1200, 2x SVS SB Ultra 13's and triple buttkicker system.
Projection: Dreamvision Yunzi + 3 Tentation Ltd. Ed.
Headgear: Woo WA22 (tube amp), Oppo HA-1 (DAC and amp), Audeze LCD-3.
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Old 12-31-2012, 02:05 AM   #23
Travis Travis is online now
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What are the worst parts of the Epson 5010?
Panasonic AE7000?
BenQ W7000?
Unwatched Blu-rays: 41 Movies 5 TV Series
Marantz SR6004; UD5005; CD5003
B&W DM600 S3, LCR60 S3, ASW600 SVS SB12-NSD
Audio-Technica ATH-M50
Toshiba Regza 32C3000G; Sony PS3
Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010
Elite Screens M106UWH-E24
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Old 12-31-2012, 05:26 AM   #24
rpatt rpatt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis View Post
What are the worst parts of the Epson 5010?
Panasonic AE7000?
BenQ W7000?
I have the AE7000. The joy stick for the picture shift is tricky (frustrating). Some people have had lamp flickering problems (I have not). Some people have reported ghosting in 3D, this also has not happened with mine. Someone on the AVS forum has linked the ghosting to room temperature. He noticed the ghosting stopped when the room temperature was warm. How warm I don't know.
Mancave Man

Two Channel
Yamaha: CX-1000, B-6, T-85, CDX-5000, YP-D8, Cambridge Audio: 640P, Oppo: BDP-83, Klipsch: Klipschorns Modded with ALK Universal Crossovers & Crites CT-125 Tweeters.
Home Theater
Panasonic: PT-AE7000U, Elite: TE106HW2, Samsung: LN52B750, Marantz: AV8801, Parasound: 5250 V.2, Oppo: BDP-93, Toshiba: HD-A35, JBL Synthesis: PT800 (4), PC600, PS1400 (2), HTPS400 (4)

Last edited by rpatt; 12-31-2012 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 12-31-2012, 01:20 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpatt View Post
I have the AE7000. The joy stick for the picture shift is tricky (frustrating). Some people have had lamp flickering problems (I have not). Some people have reported ghosting in 3D, this also has not happened with mine. Someone on the AVS forum has linked the ghosting to room temperature. He noticed the ghosting stopped when the room temperature was warm. How warm I don't know.
Thanks. Interesting about the temp.
Unwatched Blu-rays: 41 Movies 5 TV Series
Marantz SR6004; UD5005; CD5003
B&W DM600 S3, LCR60 S3, ASW600 SVS SB12-NSD
Audio-Technica ATH-M50
Toshiba Regza 32C3000G; Sony PS3
Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010
Elite Screens M106UWH-E24
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:06 PM   #26
i007spectre i007spectre is offline
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I have no issues with noise or anything with auto iris on. But its only on the lowest setting.
Epson 5010 on VAPEX9120
Sony BDP-S580
Sony PS3 and PS4
DirecTV HR24
Yamaha RX-V567
Front: Yamaha NS-C444 and NS-777
Surrounds: Side - Sony SS-F5000 / Rear - Polk T15
Subwoofer: Yamaha YST-SW315
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Old 12-31-2012, 05:08 PM   #27
Flatnate Flatnate is offline
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Well here are my thoughts, mind you haven't seen all three of these.

First, I'm super susceptible to the rainbow effect on DLP machines. I spent a good bit of time playing with the Mitsubishi HC7800D, and that is a modern DLP machine with an advanced, fast color wheel and I can still make out the rainbow effect at certain times. This may not be a big deal to you, but I've kind wrote off single chip DLP for myself personally because I'm not sure one exists where I wouldn't catch the rainbow. So that rules out the BenQ for me personally.

Then it kinda comes down to if you would use the lens memory function on the Panasonic to go to a 2.35:1 Cinemascope dimension screen. I personally would love this! Any small shortcomings from the Panasonic to the Epson in terms of 3D performance can be overlooked by me for that one feature. However, based on reviews if a scope screen isn't your cup of tea I think a slight performance nod may be had by the Epson.

So for me it would be the Panny with a scope screen, otherwise the Epson.
JVC DLA-RS20U D-ILA Projector || Pioneer BDP-51FD Blu-ray player || Dishnetwork DTVpal DVR || Onkyo PR-SC5508 AV Controller || Mackie HR824 MKII (LCR) , HR624 MKII (rears)

Last edited by Flatnate; 12-31-2012 at 05:13 PM.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:02 PM   #28
domingos35 domingos35 is offline
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the problem with the panny is the warranty
3 years or 3000 hours( promotion) otherwise 2 years or 2000 hours
if u watch a lot of movies the warranty will run out fairly quick
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:53 AM   #29
Travis Travis is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i007spectre View Post
I have no issues with noise or anything with auto iris on. But its only on the lowest setting.
Thanks. I hate the humming noise my TV gives. I can really hear it at night when I have to watch at low volumes.
Unwatched Blu-rays: 41 Movies 5 TV Series
Marantz SR6004; UD5005; CD5003
B&W DM600 S3, LCR60 S3, ASW600 SVS SB12-NSD
Audio-Technica ATH-M50
Toshiba Regza 32C3000G; Sony PS3
Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010
Elite Screens M106UWH-E24
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:53 AM   #30
Travis Travis is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatnate View Post
Well here are my thoughts, mind you haven't seen all three of these.

First, I'm super susceptible to the rainbow effect on DLP machines. I spent a good bit of time playing with the Mitsubishi HC7800D, and that is a modern DLP machine with an advanced, fast color wheel and I can still make out the rainbow effect at certain times. This may not be a big deal to you, but I've kind wrote off single chip DLP for myself personally because I'm not sure one exists where I wouldn't catch the rainbow. So that rules out the BenQ for me personally.

Then it kinda comes down to if you would use the lens memory function on the Panasonic to go to a 2.35:1 Cinemascope dimension screen. I personally would love this! Any small shortcomings from the Panasonic to the Epson in terms of 3D performance can be overlooked by me for that one feature. However, based on reviews if a scope screen isn't your cup of tea I think a slight performance nod may be had by the Epson.

So for me it would be the Panny with a scope screen, otherwise the Epson.
Very good points....think I'm leaning toward the Epson.
Unwatched Blu-rays: 41 Movies 5 TV Series
Marantz SR6004; UD5005; CD5003
B&W DM600 S3, LCR60 S3, ASW600 SVS SB12-NSD
Audio-Technica ATH-M50
Toshiba Regza 32C3000G; Sony PS3
Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010
Elite Screens M106UWH-E24
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:56 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by domingos35 View Post
the problem with the panny is the warranty
3 years or 3000 hours( promotion) otherwise 2 years or 2000 hours
if u watch a lot of movies the warranty will run out fairly quick
They don't seem to give the support that Epson does. But, warranty doesn't concern me. I'll be buying it in the US and bringing it back to Taiwan. Any fixes, I'll have to pay for.
Unwatched Blu-rays: 41 Movies 5 TV Series
Marantz SR6004; UD5005; CD5003
B&W DM600 S3, LCR60 S3, ASW600 SVS SB12-NSD
Audio-Technica ATH-M50
Toshiba Regza 32C3000G; Sony PS3
Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010
Elite Screens M106UWH-E24
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:27 PM   #32
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Pretty set on Epson 5010.....but now also thinking about the 5020. Is it worth the extra $600?
Unwatched Blu-rays: 41 Movies 5 TV Series
Marantz SR6004; UD5005; CD5003
B&W DM600 S3, LCR60 S3, ASW600 SVS SB12-NSD
Audio-Technica ATH-M50
Toshiba Regza 32C3000G; Sony PS3
Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010
Elite Screens M106UWH-E24
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:51 PM   #33
Almadacr Almadacr is offline
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I would take those $600 and would get a bigger screen and electric since the one that you have now is manual right and for that money i would look at a tab tension one .
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:49 PM   #34
i007spectre i007spectre is offline
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As an owner of the 5010 I have no urge to trade up for a 5020.
Epson 5010 on VAPEX9120
Sony BDP-S580
Sony PS3 and PS4
DirecTV HR24
Yamaha RX-V567
Front: Yamaha NS-C444 and NS-777
Surrounds: Side - Sony SS-F5000 / Rear - Polk T15
Subwoofer: Yamaha YST-SW315
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Old 01-05-2013, 01:03 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i007spectre View Post
As an owner of the 5010 I have no urge to trade up for a 5020.
Good to know. FreyTheater3D said the same thing.
Unwatched Blu-rays: 41 Movies 5 TV Series
Marantz SR6004; UD5005; CD5003
B&W DM600 S3, LCR60 S3, ASW600 SVS SB12-NSD
Audio-Technica ATH-M50
Toshiba Regza 32C3000G; Sony PS3
Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010
Elite Screens M106UWH-E24
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Old 01-05-2013, 01:04 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Almadacr View Post
I would take those $600 and would get a bigger screen and electric since the one that you have now is manual right and for that money i would look at a tab tension one .
And my screen is 4:3!

A new screen would be nice!
Unwatched Blu-rays: 41 Movies 5 TV Series
Marantz SR6004; UD5005; CD5003
B&W DM600 S3, LCR60 S3, ASW600 SVS SB12-NSD
Audio-Technica ATH-M50
Toshiba Regza 32C3000G; Sony PS3
Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010
Elite Screens M106UWH-E24
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:53 PM   #37
i007spectre i007spectre is offline
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Yeah Frey is partly to thank for me getting the 5010.
Epson 5010 on VAPEX9120
Sony BDP-S580
Sony PS3 and PS4
DirecTV HR24
Yamaha RX-V567
Front: Yamaha NS-C444 and NS-777
Surrounds: Side - Sony SS-F5000 / Rear - Polk T15
Subwoofer: Yamaha YST-SW315
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:14 PM   #38
Flatnate Flatnate is offline
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I agree on upgrading the screen versus the getting the 5020. That 16:9 image size on your 4:3 screen will be small. I have been living with a pull down screen for two years and never had a problem with it till recently. Had some friends over, so I sat closer than I usually do and began to notice ripples. Now I notice the uneven surface all the time. Only now is it driving me bonkers. Time for me to leave that screen with my dad, move out, and go fixed frame or tab tensioned.
JVC DLA-RS20U D-ILA Projector || Pioneer BDP-51FD Blu-ray player || Dishnetwork DTVpal DVR || Onkyo PR-SC5508 AV Controller || Mackie HR824 MKII (LCR) , HR624 MKII (rears)
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:52 AM   #39
Travis Travis is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatnate View Post
I agree on upgrading the screen versus the getting the 5020. That 16:9 image size on your 4:3 screen will be small. I have been living with a pull down screen for two years and never had a problem with it till recently. Had some friends over, so I sat closer than I usually do and began to notice ripples. Now I notice the uneven surface all the time. Only now is it driving me bonkers. Time for me to leave that screen with my dad, move out, and go fixed frame or tab tensioned.
Not familiar with tab tension.
Unwatched Blu-rays: 41 Movies 5 TV Series
Marantz SR6004; UD5005; CD5003
B&W DM600 S3, LCR60 S3, ASW600 SVS SB12-NSD
Audio-Technica ATH-M50
Toshiba Regza 32C3000G; Sony PS3
Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010
Elite Screens M106UWH-E24
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:15 AM   #40
rpatt rpatt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis View Post
Not familiar with tab tension.
I have the Elite TE106HW2 tab tensioned screen. The screen has a cord on each side of the screen to put "tension" on the screen to prevent ripples.

Mancave Man

Two Channel
Yamaha: CX-1000, B-6, T-85, CDX-5000, YP-D8, Cambridge Audio: 640P, Oppo: BDP-83, Klipsch: Klipschorns Modded with ALK Universal Crossovers & Crites CT-125 Tweeters.
Home Theater
Panasonic: PT-AE7000U, Elite: TE106HW2, Samsung: LN52B750, Marantz: AV8801, Parasound: 5250 V.2, Oppo: BDP-93, Toshiba: HD-A35, JBL Synthesis: PT800 (4), PC600, PS1400 (2), HTPS400 (4)
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