Reference's DIY Monster Subwoofer

[Reference]

subwoofer Model (2).pdf
I have decided to build a subwoofer next for my living room. Since i have space limitations in this room, i can not really get 2 big boys setup.
The plan is to build 1 subwoofer with 2 chambers. Each chamber has a volume of 3.75 cubic ft. It will be a ported sub with a tuning
frequency of 20 hz each. I will be using (2) TC Sounds Epic 12" DVC Subwoofer since BD is praising them so much. I will be using an amplifier plate but don't know yet which one.
I have played around with the design of them. See attachment! The box is 600mm wide and 1250mm high and 400mm deep. Anyway, i am just getting started with this project. Nothing has been purchased yet.
It's my first subwoofer build so please go easy on me.
Please let me know what you think.

[MrFattBill]

Originally Posted by Reference

Attachment 57271

Building me a sub, thanks buddy, I will pick it up this summer when I am in Newport News.

Bill

[Reference]

Originally Posted by MrFattBill

Building me a sub, thanks buddy, I will pick it up this summer when I am in Newport News.

Bill

Hi Bill,
first i am gonna try to build me one myself. Let's just wait if you even gonna like it. I don't even know if i like it. I still need to do a little more research on this project.

[MrFattBill]

Originally Posted by Reference

Hi Bill,
first i am gonna try to build me one myself. Let's just wait if you even gonna like it. I don't even know if i like it. I still need to do a little more research on this project.

Compared to what you have already accomplished it should be a VERY simple task

Bill

[Reference]

Originally Posted by MrFattBill

Compared to what you have already accomplished it should be a VERY simple task

Bill

Will see, i hope it's going to be simple. I don't know when i am gonna get started but i thought I create a thread already to get some input from you guy's.

[Tom V.]

Originally Posted by Reference

Attachment 57271
I have decided to build a subwoofer next for my living room. Since i have space limitations in this room, i can not really get 2 big boys setup.
The plan is to build 1 subwoofer with 2 chambers. Each chamber has a volume of 3.75 cubic ft. It will be a ported sub with a tuning
frequency of 20 hz each. I will be using (2) TC Sounds Epic 12" DVC Subwoofer since BD is praising them so much. I will be using an amplifier plate but don't know yet which one.
I have played around with the design of them. See attachment! The box is 600mm wide and 1250mm high and 400mm deep. How can i display a PDF to show on this site? Anyway, i am just getting started with this project. Nothing has been purchased yet.
It's my first subwoofer build so please go easy on me.
Please let me know what you think.

Any specific reason for doing two "chambers"?

Tom V.

[MrFattBill]

Pic from PDF:

[Reference]

Originally Posted by Tom V.

Any specific reason for doing two "chambers"?

Tom V.

I think it's not good to have 2 drivers in one chamber facing the same direction and besides, i want to get one woofer up high. I also plan to power them separately. I would like to build two of them but i have no room for that.

[Reference]

Originally Posted by MrFattBill

Pic from PDF:

Thanks Bill, you are the man!

[Big Daddy]

Your design reminds me of Wilson Audio's Thor's Hammer subwoofer.

Woofer: Two - 15 inch Dual Spider (38.1 cm) Dual-Ported
Sensitivity: 89 dB @ 1 watt @ 1m @ 100 Hz
Nominal Impedance: 4 ohms/minimum 3.8 ohms @ 60 Hz
Frequency Response: 10 Hz - 300 Hz Room Average Response
Overall Dimensions:

Height w/o spikes – 59 inches (149.86 cm)

Width – 20 inches (50.80 cm)

Depth – 25 1/8 inches (66.4 cm)

Weight: 411 lbs. (186.43 kg)
Total System Shipping Weight (approx.): 545 lbs. (247.2 kg)

[Reference]

Originally Posted by Big Daddy

Your design reminds me of Wilson Audio's Thor's Hammer subwoofer.

Woofer: Two - 15 inch Dual Spider (38.1 cm) Dual-Ported
Sensitivity: 89 dB @ 1 watt @ 1m @ 100 Hz
Nominal Impedance: 4 ohms/minimum 3.8 ohms @ 60 Hz
Frequency Response: 10 Hz - 300 Hz Room Average Response
Overall Dimensions:

Height w/o spikes – 59 inches (149.86 cm)

Width – 20 inches (50.80 cm)

Depth – 25 1/8 inches (66.4 cm)

Weight: 411 lbs. (186.43 kg)
Total System Shipping Weight (approx.): 545 lbs. (247.2 kg)

Hi BD, since you are the subwoofer king, I thought I will try my luck with building one myself. Thors hammer is a beast. I hope I come somehow close to that one.
What do you think of my arrangement? I think my port length will be 38" so I will have to elbow the hell out of it. You think 500w for each driver is enough to power them?

[Big Daddy]

Originally Posted by Reference

Hi BD, since you are the subwoofer king, I thought I will try my luck with building one myself. Thors hammer is a beast. I hope I come somehow close to that one.
What do you think of my arrangement? I think my port length will be 38" so I will have to elbow the hell out of it. You think 500w for each driver is enough to power them?

Your arrangement looks very good. Elbowing the port tubes is a good idea. I bought two cylindrical subwoofers from Hsu Research in the mid 1990s. Both of them have ports with elbows. I chatted with Dr. Hsu for a couple of hours and we talked about that issue. When your subwoofer cabinet does not allow you to use port tubes of sufficient length, elbowing them is a very good idea. You may have trouble elbowing three ports as there may not be enough space.

Your subwoofers will be too big and too heavy. It may be a good idea to add casters to them. In fact, Thor's Hammer subwoofers have casters that you can attach or disconnect. Otherwise, nobody will be able to move the subwoofers. I saw the Thor's Hammer subwoofer in a high-end show in San Francisco in Wilson's room. They were gigantic.

Depending on the sensitivity of the drivers, 500 watts per driver is more than sufficient. Are they going to be passive subwoofers? In that case, a pro stereo amp such as the Behringer amplifier may be your best choice.

[Reference]

Originally Posted by Big Daddy

Your arrangement looks very good. Elbowing the port tubes is a good idea. I bought two cylindrical subwoofers from Hsu Research in the mid 1990s. Both of them have ports with elbows. I chatted with Dr. Hsu for a couple of hours and we talked about that issue. When your subwoofer cabinet does not allow you to use port tubes of sufficient length, elbowing them is a very good idea. You may have trouble elbowing three ports as there may not be enough space.

Your subwoofers will be too big and too heavy. It may be a good idea to add casters to them. In fact, Thor's Hammer subwoofers have casters that you can attach or disconnect. Otherwise, nobody will be able to move the subwoofers. I saw the Thor's Hammer subwoofer in a high-end show in San Francisco in Wilson's room. They were gigantic.

Depending on the sensitivity of the drivers, 500 watts per driver is more than sufficient. Are they going to be passive subwoofers? In that case, a pro stereo amp such as the Behringer amplifier may be your best choice.

I have not finalized the design yet but it's gonna be close to what's in my first post. After the design is set, I have to design the bracings inside the box and that will be tricky with 3 ports as you said. I am glad I have auto-cad for that. If it gets to tight, I will only use 2 ports.

Casters are a good idea as long as the sub is in production. As always, the final assembly will be done at home. They will be heavy but I am used to that after I build my last set of speakers.

I think I will make them passive. I looked at the behringer epx3000 and it's going for 400$ right now. 2 plate amps would cost me around 800$ if I remember correctly. So you already saved me 400$ and I have a better power supply for my woofies. Thanks.
Next week, I will probably start shopping and get me all the goodies to get started.

[Big Daddy]

Originally Posted by Reference

I have not finalized the design yet but it's gonna be close to what's in my first post. After the design is set, I have to design the bracings inside the box and that will be tricky with 3 ports as you said. I am glad I have auto-cad for that. If it gets to tight, I will only use 2 ports.

Casters are a good idea as long as the sub is in production. As always, the final assembly will be done at home. They will be heavy but I am used to that after I build my last set of speakers.

I think I will make them passive. I looked at the behringer epx3000 and it's going for 400$ right now. 2 plate amps would cost me around 800$ if I remember correctly. So you already saved me 400$ and I have a better power supply for my woofies. Thanks.
Next week, I will probably start shopping and get me all the goodies to get started.

Actually, you can buy the Behringer EPX4000 for $399 plus free shipping from Unique Squared. I have bought a few items from them and they ship everything very fast. Also, Parts Express sells port tubes and port tube elbows at reasonable prices. If you decide to buy TC Sounds drivers, Parts Express is their main dealer.

Behringer EPX4000, $399:
http://www.uniquesquared.com/behring...ier-4000w.html

Port Tubes:
http://www.parts-express.com/cat/por...%20port%20tube

TC Sounds Subwoofer Drivers:
http://www.parts-express.com/term/tc...nds+subwoofers

[prerich]

Originally Posted by Big Daddy

Actually, you can buy the Behringer EPX4000 for $399 plus free shipping from Unique Squared. I have bought a few items from them and they ship everything very fast. Also, Parts Express sells port tubes and port tube elbows at reasonable prices. If you decide to buy TC Sounds drivers, Parts Express is their main dealer.

Behringer EPX4000, $399:
http://www.uniquesquared.com/behring...ier-4000w.html

Port Tubes:
http://www.parts-express.com/cat/por...%20port%20tube

TC Sounds Subwoofer Drivers:
http://www.parts-express.com/term/tc...nds+subwoofers

Big Daddy, have you heard any reviews or have you used the Behringer iNuke models with built-in DSP and crossovers?

[Big Daddy]

Originally Posted by prerich

Big Daddy, have you heard any reviews or have you used the Behringer iNuke models with built-in DSP and crossovers?

I don't have any personal experience with iNuke amplifiers, but I have read good reviews by users at pro dealers. My experience is only with Behringer EP and EPX amplifiers. The EPX amplifiers may be a better choice for home audio users because they have RCA inputs and their fans are relatively less noisy.

[Reference]

Originally Posted by Big Daddy

Actually, you can buy the Behringer EPX4000 for $399 plus free shipping from Unique Squared. I have bought a few items from them and they ship everything very fast. Also, Parts Express sells port tubes and port tube elbows at reasonable prices. If you decide to buy TC Sounds drivers, Parts Express is their main dealer.

Behringer EPX4000, $399:
http://www.uniquesquared.com/behring...ier-4000w.html

Port Tubes:
http://www.parts-express.com/cat/por...%20port%20tube

TC Sounds Subwoofer Drivers:
http://www.parts-express.com/term/tc...nds+subwoofers

Just pulled the trigger on the epx4000 for $399 from amazon. I am a prime member so I should receive it by Tuesday. I know it's a little early because the sub is not even started yet but I like to have everything setup before the subwoofer is finished. (3 - 4 month?)

[Kali157]

Hey Ref, why not go for 15 inch TCs?

[Reference]

Originally Posted by Kali157

Hey Ref, why not go for 15 inch TCs?

Hi Kali,
I will just quote what Dig Daddy said in his ultimate DIY subwoofer thread;

As a general rule, large drivers are better in generating ultra low bass frequencies, but they are not very good in generating the upper bass frequencies. In that respect, 12" drivers are better than 15" drivers.

I think that is what I am looking for in my living room. If I would build a subwoofer for my dedicated HT room, I would use 15" drivers.

[Tom V.]

Originally Posted by Reference

I think it's not good to have 2 drivers in one chamber facing the same direction and besides, i want to get one woofer up high. I also plan to power them separately. I would like to build two of them but i have no room for that.

Just sounds more like two separate subwoofers that will be physically connected. My first thought is....why not just build two separate woofs? Much easier to move...and you will have the option of experimenting with placement variations. And instead of 6 ports... use 1 large 6" port. (you can use a PVC elbow if needed). A single 6" port will flow almost as well as triple 4" ports and about the same five 3" ports. A single 6" will be more than enough for two 12s. You'll save money and time.

Or, maybe think about sealed/opposing? I bet you would find two separate (sealed)enclosures each with dual opposed 12s will offer more performance and much more flexibility in regards to optimizing your response at the key seating positions. If the room isn't overly large you might even be able to design them to extend close to single digits.

If you are dead-set on one large enclosure...think about dual 18s sealed/opposing.

Tom V.