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#1 |
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Active Member
Jan 2013
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Exactly as the title?
I am trying to decide the largest screen i can use for my setup. I used and online calculator and it suggested a 1.5x zoom on my projector. will this hurt PQ? |
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#2 |
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Blu-ray Baron
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Doubtful it will decrease picture quality unless you have a screen bigger than most people's wall height. It mostly depends on the projected size of the image.
HT EQUIPMENT: Sony Bravia KDL-52W3000, Onkyo 805, B&W M-1s & AS-2 Sub, 60GB PS3, Toshiba HD-A2
PSN COLLECTION: Angry Birds, Bomberman Ultra, Flower, Joust, LBP: Sackboy's Prehistoric Moves, Magic Orbz, Super Stardust HD, Trials Of Topoq, Wipeout HD. |
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#3 |
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Active Member
Jan 2013
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#4 | |
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Moderator
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At high zoom levels, a projector can lose light output.
http://www.bambooav.com/information-...ctor-zoom.html Quote:
HT Room: Panasonic PT-AE8000, Epson 1080UB Proj., Mitsubishi 65" Diamond Series HD TV, Yamaha-RX-A3010 Rec., CinePro 6-Ch. Amp. (350 W/Ch, 8 Ohm), Proton D1200 Amp., Behringer EP4000 & EPX3000 Amps., Oppo BDP-83, Sony BDP-S790, Audio Technica Tuntable, Mitsubishi S-VHS, 2 Def. Tech. Super Towers w 15" subs, 1 Def. Tech. Center & 1 Martin-Logan Center, 2 Def. Tech. Surr. & 2 PSB Surr., 2 Cadence Presence, 2 Bose 901 Rears, 2 Modified HSU 12" Subs, 1 ED DIY 12" Sub, 1 ED DIY 15" Sub, Velodyne SMS-1 Subwoofer Equalizer, DirecTV HD, Monster HTS 5000 & APC H15 Power Conditioners.
Two-Channel Room: XiangSheng Tube Preamp., Carver TFM-45 Amp. (375 W/Ch), Behringer EPX4000 Amp., Onkyo CD player, Denon Turntable, Yamaha Tuner, 2 Vintage Polk RTA-15TL Speakers, 2 LCY 100 Super Tweeters, 2 DIY Folded Horn Super Towers with 15" Sub., 1 Modified AA HD-SUB12 Family Room: Mitsubishi 73" Diamond Series TV, Yamaha DSP-A3090 Rec., DirecTV HD-DVR, PS3, Zvox Speaker, 1 DIY 12" Sub. |
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#5 | |
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Blu-ray Champion
Jul 2007
Montreal, Canada
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Quote:
If we were talking cameras then digital would be yes and optical most likely not. With a projector we are usualy talking optical zoom, so it should not be an issue. Now that being said it would depend on the lenses, with some there can be slight degradation at one extreme or the other and so it is best not to go to either extreme. |
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#6 |
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Expert Member
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The issue here is less about large size resulting in noticeable loss of detail and resolution as much as it is light output and having a slightly dimmer picture as a result of the size. Remember, a 1080p home projector is within 4% of the same resolution as many 2K digital projectors installed on small to medium screens at your local cineplex. The kicker is the home projector is maybe outputting roughly 800 lumens, and theirs is outputting around 12,000 lumens.
So, on a 142 inch screen use a projection calculator and try to place your projector as close to the screen as the zoom lens will allow for making that size. Doing that will actually make a slight difference in brightness. Also run the thing in normal lamp mode (as opposed to econo) if your wallet allows it. Personally I think 142 inches is totally watchable for most home theater projectors at 2D but you are probably pushing it when it comes to 3D at that size.
-Nate
JVC DLA-RS20U D-ILA Projector + 100" 1.1 gain screen, Pioneer BDP-51FD Blu-ray player Dishnetwork DTVpal DVR http://letterboxd.com/flatnate/ |
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#7 | |
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Blu-ray Champion
Jul 2007
Montreal, Canada
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Quote:
If the projector outputs X lumens and the screen is Y feet the image will have the same brightness if the projector is close enough to have the zoom at one end or far enough to have the zoom at the other end. The small difference in the distance that the light has to travel won’t make a difference with normal dust and stuff. |
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#8 | |
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Senior Member
Apr 2012
Inside your mind, CANADA
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Quote:
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#9 |
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Blu-ray Ninja
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I notice a decrease in brightness and contrast on my pj if I adjust the zoom to where the picture is very large, but after I draped my walls and ceiling in black bedsheets, it helped reduce ambient light and made the image seem much more bright and contrasted.
Joe
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#10 | |
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Moderator
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Quote:
Digital zoom was orginally used in video cameras and later on used in still cameras and projectors. Digital zoom is fake zoom. Digital zoom takes part of the image and enalrges it electronically rather that by using the lens. In digital zoom, a part of the image is cropped and is enlarged. As a result, the image quality suffers a lot. In the good old days of film photography and film projection, we only had real optical zoom. In the age of digital, everything has become fake. You can't trust any image that you see. Although image manipulation was done with film photography, it was a lot more diffecult and time consuming to alter the image and the extend of alteration was very limited. This was normally the job of professionals or advanced photographers. With a digital camera and a computer, even a child can alter an image significantly. Another unfortunate result of the so-called digital revolution is that it has become possible for a manufacturer to advertise that their photographic equipment is capable of so so zoom level, even if it has no zoom lens.
HT Room: Panasonic PT-AE8000, Epson 1080UB Proj., Mitsubishi 65" Diamond Series HD TV, Yamaha-RX-A3010 Rec., CinePro 6-Ch. Amp. (350 W/Ch, 8 Ohm), Proton D1200 Amp., Behringer EP4000 & EPX3000 Amps., Oppo BDP-83, Sony BDP-S790, Audio Technica Tuntable, Mitsubishi S-VHS, 2 Def. Tech. Super Towers w 15" subs, 1 Def. Tech. Center & 1 Martin-Logan Center, 2 Def. Tech. Surr. & 2 PSB Surr., 2 Cadence Presence, 2 Bose 901 Rears, 2 Modified HSU 12" Subs, 1 ED DIY 12" Sub, 1 ED DIY 15" Sub, Velodyne SMS-1 Subwoofer Equalizer, DirecTV HD, Monster HTS 5000 & APC H15 Power Conditioners.
Two-Channel Room: XiangSheng Tube Preamp., Carver TFM-45 Amp. (375 W/Ch), Behringer EPX4000 Amp., Onkyo CD player, Denon Turntable, Yamaha Tuner, 2 Vintage Polk RTA-15TL Speakers, 2 LCY 100 Super Tweeters, 2 DIY Folded Horn Super Towers with 15" Sub., 1 Modified AA HD-SUB12 Family Room: Mitsubishi 73" Diamond Series TV, Yamaha DSP-A3090 Rec., DirecTV HD-DVR, PS3, Zvox Speaker, 1 DIY 12" Sub. |
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#11 | |
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Blu-ray Champion
Jul 2007
Montreal, Canada
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Quote:
digital zoom on a projector is like digital zoom on the TV, it is used by black bar haters to make the image fit the screen by cutting out the rest of it. |
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#12 | |
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Expert Member
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Quote:
Art Feierman recently posted a review on the Panasonic PT-AR100U and noticed some very large differences based upon the distance of the projector to the screen using various lens zoom settings. You can find it here: http://www.projectorreviews.com/pana...erformance.php Basically he says this: Effect of zoom on lumen output (Dynamic mode):I know he has posted the effect of zoom and distance on measured lumens for several other projectors as well; none of them being this pronounced. Still, given the quality lenses on most consumer projectors it must make a significant impact if he is quoting typical measurements of around 40% light loss on a 2:1 lens from the closest to the furthest range that most projectors throw.
-Nate
JVC DLA-RS20U D-ILA Projector + 100" 1.1 gain screen, Pioneer BDP-51FD Blu-ray player Dishnetwork DTVpal DVR http://letterboxd.com/flatnate/ Last edited by Flatnate; 01-27-2013 at 05:34 PM. |
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#13 | |
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Blu-ray Champion
Jul 2007
Montreal, Canada
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Quote:
Let's go back to basics. A projector has a light source that makes an extremely bright image, that image goes through lenses, if you are tight or wide the difference will be the distance between the two lenses but it still need to pass through the exact same lenses. The lumens (or candela if we use metric) should not be any different for the image as a whole if you are tight or wide since the light passes through the exact same path and the loss will be exactly the same due to the quality of the materials. Now that image grows as it gets farther and it will hit the screen at a given size, that is when we talk Foot-lambert fL or (candela per meter square in metric). Since the output is exactly the same (let's say X Candela) and now the area is the same (meter squared) you should get the exact same brightness (candela per meter squared). Now the only issue is that the light will cross the room and air can have some refraction due to dust or smoke particle. So in a Smokey room, that can be an issue (the same way that it is hard to see far in the fog) but most people won't use a projector in that environment and in a normal room there is usually not enough crap in the air to make a measurable difference at such a small difference in distance. Now if this guy measures stuff in a smoke filled room, that could explain it and there could be an effect on brightness, if this guy is sticking his meter near the lens and so he ends up getting wrong numbers because the image coming out when in tight is smaller than in wide, then it is just bad measurements and the guy being an idiot because if both those images grow to the same size by the time they get on screen, then the brightness will be the same. The simple thing that he does not give image size and does not measure image brightness in foot lamberts should be enough to show that he does not know what he is talking about |
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#14 | |
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Expert Member
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Quote:
The Epson 5020 in Dynamic mode was: Zoom out: 2142 Mid-zoom: 1890 Zoom in: 1438 My JVC RS20 in Cinema 1 mode was: Zoom out (closest position - wide-angle): 775 lumens Mid-zoom: 672 lumens Zoom in: 550 lumens Being that Art has been a speaker at Infocomm and professionally reviewed nearly everything I can think of from the Sony VPL-VW1000 to the Optoma HD20 I'm a little leary about just writing him off on this subject. I've emailed him once before and found him prompt, friendly and happy to clarify. I really want to get to the bottom of how he comes up with these numbers.
-Nate
JVC DLA-RS20U D-ILA Projector + 100" 1.1 gain screen, Pioneer BDP-51FD Blu-ray player Dishnetwork DTVpal DVR http://letterboxd.com/flatnate/ |
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#15 |
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Expert Member
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Okay did a little more browsing over at Projectorreviews.com and found a not too technical a write-up that addresses some of the zoom vs brightness question. Essentially it says, when a projector's lens is in full wide angle mode (largest image from a given distance), more lumens make it of out the lens than in full telephoto (furthest distance). Full telephoto at the furthest distance means less lumens out of the lens but better contrast. I'm still a little unclear on how he is taking his various brightness measurements.
http://www.projectorreviews.com/advi...sLensThrow.php Home Theater Projector Brightness, Zoom lenses and Throw Distances
-Nate
JVC DLA-RS20U D-ILA Projector + 100" 1.1 gain screen, Pioneer BDP-51FD Blu-ray player Dishnetwork DTVpal DVR http://letterboxd.com/flatnate/ Last edited by Flatnate; 01-28-2013 at 12:09 AM. |
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#16 | |
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Senior Member
Apr 2012
Inside your mind, CANADA
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Apr 2012
Inside your mind, CANADA
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I hope I have it right otherwise I'm very confused with the difference of digital zoom and optical zoom
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#18 | |
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Senior Member
Apr 2012
Inside your mind, CANADA
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Quote:
BUT I'm confused now bc I thought I was helping my picture by doing that now it seems there could a better solution. And this talk about wide angle lenses and telephoto lenses has me lost. Do projectors have both types of lenses? Or does it just mean how the projector is setup, ie. close to the screen is a wide angle type of lens and farther away is a telephoto type of lens? I think I'm more lost than before typing this. Help?
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#19 | |
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Expert Member
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Quote:
Quick Edit: The calculator at Projector Central says that for the VPL-VW15 has a 1.6x manual zoom lens (what you twist by the lens cap). The lens throw calculator on the site states that you have a placement range between 12 feet 1 inch and 18 feet 4 inches to produce a 120 inch diagonal picture. So positioning the projector at 12 feet 1 inch would produce the brightest possible image for that projector.
-Nate
JVC DLA-RS20U D-ILA Projector + 100" 1.1 gain screen, Pioneer BDP-51FD Blu-ray player Dishnetwork DTVpal DVR http://letterboxd.com/flatnate/ Last edited by Flatnate; 01-29-2013 at 01:10 AM. |
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#20 | |
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Senior Member
Apr 2012
Inside your mind, CANADA
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