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Old 01-05-2015, 01:59 PM   #361
Pieter V Pieter V is offline
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Originally Posted by HD Goofnut View Post
Carbage?
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:41 PM   #362
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So from what I'm gathering, for the *current* best edition of this movie one must:
  1. Buy the Italian BD FuturePak for all the DVD extras on a separate BD (unless they're all on the French BD? In 1080p?)
    • Check the Italian Disc 1 for the LFE filter
      • If it's there, buy the Australian BD
  2. Buy the U.S. Digibook for all the production photos
  3. Buy a hardware region mod (I have the Oppo 103D) for playback of the Italian/Australian/French(?) discs

Hmm, this could take some time.
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:48 PM   #363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbeck View Post
So from what I'm gathering, for the *current* best edition of this movie one must:
  1. Buy the Italian BD FuturePak for all the DVD extras on a separate BD (unless they're all on the French BD? In 1080p?)
    • Check the Italian Disc 1 for the LFE filter
      • If it's there, buy the Australian BD
  2. Buy the U.S. Digibook for all the production photos
  3. Buy a hardware region mod (I have the Oppo 103D) for playback of the Italian/Australian/French(?) discs

Hmm, this could take some time.
There's a much simpler way. If you're worried about the LFE then get the AU BD. Then all you need is disc 2 from the U.S. 2 disc DVD set for the extras.
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:57 PM   #364
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Yeah, I didn't mention that I already have the 2-disc DVD set (bought it Day 1, I think? Maybe Day 2 ) and the original U.S. BD. I'm just interested in having the best and most complete package on BD if possible, particularly for one of my all-time favorites.

This is the main reason I still hang on to my DVDs for M&C 2-disc, King Kong 3-disc, Notorious [Criterion], Lilo & Stitch 2-disc, and The Maltese Falcon 3-disc. I guess of all those, The Maltese Falcon has the best chance of a future re-release with the previous versions of the film upgraded to 1080p.
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Old 01-06-2015, 02:03 AM   #365
Kool-aid23 Kool-aid23 is offline
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Originally Posted by HD Goofnut View Post
There's a much simpler way. If you're worried about the LFE then get the AU BD. Then all you need is disc 2 from the U.S. 2 disc DVD set for the extras.
Greetings,

Is the AU version the only region that didn't have the LFE filter on BD?

Regards,
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Old 01-06-2015, 04:03 AM   #366
Brett C Brett C is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kool-aid23 View Post
Greetings,

Is the AU version the only region that didn't have the LFE filter on BD?

Regards,
The Australian BD is the only release in the world that contains the unfiltered track, even the French release from Universal is the same filtered track.
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Old 06-18-2015, 09:56 AM   #367
zorg zorg is offline
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There is no filter on the DVD, the R1 DVD and Australian BD has extension down to around 13hz and the US BD extends to around 32hz and takes a nosedive - 3dB down at 30Hz, and 18dB down at 15Hz.
Seriously guys, who has a room that large, that it's first mode is at most 30Hz? If so, what equipment do you use that can go below 20Hz? There should be subsonic filters in subwoofer preamps lets say at 20Hz which is reasonable both for the amp's and woofer's sake. Then again, what ears do you use to be able to hear 15Hz? If you respond "feel", that could mean a higher harmonic products due to distortion caused by the poor woofer taken down to 'teen Hz and jumping out of its suspension.

Anyway, this doesn't mean, that there should be a high pass filter in the track, however who cares (hears)?
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Old 06-18-2015, 10:12 AM   #368
wormraper wormraper is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zorg View Post
Seriously guys, who has a room that large, that it's first mode is at most 30Hz? If so, what equipment do you use that can go below 20Hz? There should be subsonic filters in subwoofer preamps lets say at 20Hz which is reasonable both for the amp's and woofer's sake. Then again, what ears do you use to be able to hear 15Hz? If you respond "feel", that could mean a higher harmonic products due to distortion caused by the poor woofer taken down to 'teen Hz and jumping out of its suspension.

Anyway, this doesn't mean, that there should be a high pass filter in the track, however who cares (hears)?

lets see. where shall we start.

1. A sealed sub won't use a high pass filter, a properly built sub should limit excursion by the box box.

2. a ported sub will, but many of us are using ported subs tuned down to 14-17 hz... myself I'm using twin SI 18's in 12 cu ft boxes each tuned to 17 hz before a dropoff, running about 1000 watts per driver. (soon to be upgraded to UXL 18's x4 with about 1700 watts per driver). there is very little distortion on these boxes being that at 17 hz they can be POUNDING at over 110 db's without actually hitting xmax let alone xmech

3. in a 22x14x10 foot tall room at 8 db hot you can DEFINITELY notice the filter drop off. sub 30h frequences are VERY important if you have capable subs.
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Old 06-18-2015, 10:36 AM   #369
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What about the PQ? Are all the releases you guys are mentioning for audio the same visually?
I've always been disappointed with the way the film looks. The trailer has better color, especially during the storm sequence.
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Old 06-18-2015, 10:42 AM   #370
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All right, such a monster setup

Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post
a properly built (sealed) sub should limit excursion by the box box.
But most drivers run out of xmax before even closing to their thermal capabilities.
On ported sub, the excursion is zero on tuning freq and maximal half octave above. Below the tuning freq it should be reasonably cut off as the excursion rises considerably.

What is your room size for those beasts? Mine is quite small with first axial mode ~ 29Hz, so I can easily live with f3=30Hz...
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Old 06-18-2015, 10:44 AM   #371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zorg View Post
All right, such a monster setup

But most drivers run out of xmax before even closing to their thermal capabilities.
On ported sub, the excursion is zero on tuning freq and maximal half octave above. Below the tuning freq should be reasonably cut off as the excursion rises considerably.

What is your room size for those beasts? Mine is quite small with first axial mode ~ 29Hz, so I can easily live with f3=30Hz...
22x14x10

and yes, they run out of xmech way before thermal capablities USUALLY. especially in commercial subs, but that can be modified with a slightly larger boxes where you can run out of xmax even faster, but still get the same output... I try to keep f3 at about 19 if I can when modeling a sealed sub.

the only reason I brought up excursion anyways, was saying that if the box is modeled properly, then the only way to get high distortion with the drivers like you were saying was if they were dropping some SERIOUS watts into that box, like the kind of wattage that would fry a voice coil...the two sealed I designed for a buddy reach xmax at about 1800 watts, but the driver is only thermally capable up to about 1200 (at least 1200 is the max i'd push it before I'd be scared of truely burning out a coil, it might hit 1300 watts before blowing)...meaning he will NEVER hit xmach unless he is stupid and tosses a full channel of an Inuke 6000 or IPR 7500 on that sucker, then he'd hit that strained "sound" from the distortion... but unless he really puts stupid amounts of power into the sealed sub it pretty much is incapable of hitting Xmax.


now, the real thing is though. with a solid capable system, a lot of us can hear down sub 20hz with real authority... come over and listen to "Interstellar" on my system.. that final dive into the wormhole is absolutely frightening at 16hz... your ears become pressurized and you feel like you're under water and have to pop them it gets so intense... I drove 700 nails out of my drywall over the course of a few months when I was testing to see the difference between my THT's (which only go to 25hz before a nasty dropoff) and my 16 hz ported 18s... lets just say I had to become very handy with a spackling knife

Last edited by wormraper; 06-18-2015 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 06-18-2015, 11:02 AM   #372
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4x UXL18 in 22x14x10 do you plan to be deaf?

I'd rather go dsp controlled multisub to balance out the unequal spatial response due to room modes rather than an unmanaged hyperpowerfull sub, now I am using a 12" pro woofer tuned slightly below 40Hz and cannot complain about the sound pressure at all even driven by a quite weak amp ~ 200W. I can't imagine a single 18" let alone on this Wattage in my room
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Old 06-18-2015, 11:07 AM   #373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zorg View Post
4x UXL18 in 22x14x10 do you plan to be deaf?

I'd rather go dsp controlled multisub to balance out the unequal spatial response due to room modes rather than an unmanaged hyperpowerfull sub, now I am using a 12" pro woofer tuned slightly below 40Hz and cannot complain about the sound pressure at all even driven by a quite weak amp ~ 200W. I can't imagine a single 18" in my room
I may not be the best person to ask this question to, but I also may not be all right in the head. at least that's what my wife said when I told her I was upgrading from my stereo integrity HT 18's to either 4 uxl-18s or 4 dayton UM-18s.... she just rolled her eyes and muttered something under her breath that I probably should just ignore ..

I mean, I have 2 subs in the front two corners... but I have a couple of nodes that the 14x22 widthxlength can't fix by just the two corners... so, logic dictates that you add more... (I mean duhhhh )..besides, I haven't built any subs in a while, so I figure its about time............. she did nix the idea of adding a couple more 20 amp circuits to the room and using 8 UM-18 sealed so I could go for under 15 hz material...
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Old 06-18-2015, 11:43 AM   #374
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I don't know, maybe you know it, but I'd suggest you read some material about multisub i.e. on diyaudio.com before building a huge subwoofer wall with uncertain benefits. It would require a DSP to control each sub independently (EQ, delay), a lot of measuring and playing with sw placement. But it could give you a smooth response over a wide listening area.
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Old 06-18-2015, 11:47 AM   #375
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This is one movie I would love to have seen a sequel too.
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Old 06-18-2015, 12:23 PM   #376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zorg View Post


I don't know, maybe you know it, but I'd suggest you read some material about multisub i.e. on diyaudio.com before building a huge subwoofer wall with uncertain benefits. It would require a DSP to control each sub independently (EQ, delay), a lot of measuring and playing with sw placement. But it could give you a smooth response over a wide listening area.
oh I'm well aware... I use a minidsp right now for the two I use now and have them calibrated.. the next two I have are going to be used as nearfield for increased tactile response, not one wall up front... I've been building and calibrating subs for years.

Last edited by wormraper; 06-18-2015 at 12:28 PM.
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Old 06-18-2015, 12:49 PM   #377
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Some questions: I thought when this came out the issue with the transfer was confirmed as the director's intent with the grain structure. Is that not the case? Also, and I have the original region A release, the sound is amazing and has been generally listed as one of the best sounding disks. What is the issue with the sound? I understand many issues with my home theater, but I admit that certain subwoofer concepts are above me.
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Old 06-18-2015, 11:15 PM   #378
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Where is the idea coming from that the Italian disc has better picture quality? Screencaps are virtually identical: http://caps-a-holic.com/hd_vergleich...ess=#vergleich

Bitrate differences are negligible, and the US has a slight edge in audio bitrate, if you think you can hear the difference. I'm suspicious of claims that the Italian disc is better in any way.
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