LG 65EF9500 OLED Ultra HDTV Review

[HDTV1080P]

LG 65EF9500 OLED Ultra HDTV Review

[elwaylite]

Adding to this thread a little late, but if anyone has one or gets one, this may help (have only had mine since February). I have also decided to get back into the amatuer calibration game and will have a new meter and signal generator here this week. So I will be posting charts as I perform the work, right now a 2D and 3D cal are on the todo list. UHD is out for me, the color accuracy on the 15's and even 16's is not very good, and considering 1080p blu-ray looks outstanding, I am probably gonna choose accuracy for now unless something changes (FW update, etc...).

Anyways, here are a few starting points:

Use ISF 1 and 2 modes.

Gamma 2.2 (not as good as 2.4 IMO, but it looks nice)
Brightness 49 (in 2.2 this will clip a little more black than 2.4 Gamma, but it is far better on these than showing too much black)
Contrast 78
Oled Light 40 (this is a starting point and may be too bright for some; adjust up or down as needed)
Gamut controls do not work well on these, but color accuracy is very good stock
Cut off noise reduction features
TruMotion offers full motion rez (650 lines like an LCD; this is a 120hz panel) with Deblur 10. Dejudder 1-2 is ideal, granted 2 may be a little too soapy for some on 60hz content and 1 would be best. 2 looks best to me on 24hz content.
Gamma 2.4 is the better mode IMO, the image is very rich and contrasty and the only difference is Brightness needs to be 52 with Gamma 2.4.

In 3D, all the above settings match pattern results which I guess is due to it being passive 3D. Not sure how grayscale adjustments will compare between 2D and 3D, but I plan on checking that with the meter.

The 2015's have two defenses against IR, granted they don't seem to pick it up as easily or retain it like my 2012 plasma:

Compensation cycle - Some type of panel voltage regulation that occurs after every 2 hours of uptime. You will notice the red optical port stays lit after you cut the display off, for about 10 mins, and then you will hear a click when it shuts off. The only way to increase or decrease this interval is to use the service menu remote. I intend on leaving mine alone
Screen dimming - after 75 seconds or so of a static image the screen will dim itself down, once the image is active again it will brighten back up.

Service Remote:

MKJ39170828
Only real benefit for this is more detailed panel info and changing comp cycles, hours of use are in the normal user menus.

[elwaylite]

Images:

Service Menu Image (UTT are hours and then you have Comp Cycle Count)

Only pattern info to note is that the OLED clips fine chroma resolution with a ycbcr 444 1080p input, as shown. If you input 2160p ycbcr 444, 1080p ycbcr 422 or 1080p rgb 444 it tests fine. I let the Samsung UHD player send 1080p blu-ray discs out as 2160p/24 ycbcr 444 to the display.

Service remote

[RockyIII]

Wow, I dont know how I missed this thread
A few questions, provided those picture settings as the same as my EG9100 model...

1) Color Gamut on Standard or Wide?
2) Oled Light seems pretty low in your display, especially for 3D. Was I wrong to believe that Oled Light must beset higher espececially for 3D viewing?
3) What's the best TruMotion balance of de-judder/de-blur to get the heaviest SOE while avoiding nasty artifacts? I know I know, shame on me because I like to watch movies looking like live plays

[elwaylite]

1) Standard
2) That was 2D, but I even use 100 now in 2D and lower contrast down. It keeps ABL from being as bad
3) I leave TM off on 1080i and 720p HDTV, but on blu-ray I use DJ 2 DB 9.

[RockyIII]

Originally Posted by elwaylite

1) Standard
2) That was 2D, but I even use 100 now in 2D and lower contrast down. It keeps ABL from being as bad
3) I leave TM off on 1080i and 720p HDTV, but on blu-ray I use DJ 2 DB 9.

Thanks for the prompt reply.

Over at AVS Forum i read a lot about ABL (and IR) issues. I understand that your general picture settings have changed since your last post above?
To me, it seems that 3D does better at 90 to 100 Oled Light.

TruMotion: This is the one tool that I am still struggling to figure out since we have a separate de-judder and de-blur command. I am weird so I like that "soapy" effect that film purists hate, but it's been hard to find the right combo of de-judder and de-blur where pan scans look as smooth as ever (giving that fake LIVE TV feel to movies LOL)but without any nasty artifacts or "flashing" around moving silhouettes.

[elwaylite]

I use OLED Light 100 and Contrast 55 on 2D, Oled Light 100 and Contrast 75 on 3D.

Deblur should be 8-10 regardless, it gives full 600 lines of motion rez. If you like the soapy look, then increasing dejudder to 3 or higher will prob do what you want.

[RockyIII]

Originally Posted by elwaylite

I use OLED Light 100 and Contrast 55 on 2D, Oled Light 100 and Contrast 75 on 3D.

Deblur should be 8-10 regardless, it gives full 600 lines of motion rez. If you like the soapy look, then increasing dejudder to 3 or higher will prob do what you want.

Wouldnt Oled Light cranked up to the max in 2D cause any "flashlighting" (or whatever it's called) and black crushing? What am I missing?

In regards to TruMotion, I assume that only de-judder can cause artifacts as we turn it higher, whereas de-blur even at level 10 won't create any weird artifacts. I was wondering which of the two was the culprit for on-screen characters sometimes looking like they have an electric field around their bodies

[elwaylite]

You are still thinking like an LCD owner, stop doing that (flashlighting).

As far as artifacts, yes, the higher you go with dejudder, the worse they can be.

[RockyIII]

Originally Posted by elwaylite

You are still thinking like an LCD owner, stop doing that (flashlighting).

As far as artifacts, yes, the higher you go with dejudder, the worse they can be.

I have it set at 5 and 10 and it looks soapy enough and borderline producing artifacts but not full blown where they give me a headache (and only in very fast action scenes).
On a different subject, I read that you prefer gamma 2.4, but I find it difficult to get a picture that doesn't appear too dark and gloomy over 2.2.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I577 using Tapatalk

[elwaylite]

Id use 2.2 in the stock mode. Even though a 2.4 gamma is considered "better", it can be too dark on the low end which calibrators sort out when they cal. For a display that is not cal'd, 2.2 would prob work better for you.

[RockyIII]

Agree. Let's also keep in mind that I have the EG9100 which is a less high-end model than the 9500

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I577 using Tapatalk

[elwaylite]

Well, yours is still pretty much a reference display when cal'd. OLED isn't making any "low end models yet"

[RockyIII]

To be honest, I think sometimes we have to give our eyes time to adjust.
I have used gamma 2.4 with brightness 52 all morning and I just switched back to gamma 2.2 with brightness 50 and it felt a little too brights...My eyes adjusted to gamma 2.4 in under 2 hours

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I577 using Tapatalk

[elwaylite]

Yep. Mine was cal'd a little lower than 2.3 on the low end and is up around 2.3 the rest of the way. It is a good in between. When I try and use 2.2 now it looks too low because you get used to a certain mode.

[RockyIII]

I also can see what you are saying about the unfreakin-belieavable contrast with gamma 2.4 with way less Issues in dark scenes.
Oled Light is nothing like a LED conventional backlight effect either and it doesn't affect solid blacks at all!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I577 using Tapatalk

[RockyIII]

Originally Posted by elwaylite

I use OLED Light 100 and Contrast 55 on 2D.

What is the logic behind using Oled Light at 100 (in 2D) and lower brightness to below 50? Isn't brightness below 50 going to give black crush?

[ray0414]

Originally Posted by RockyIII

What is the logic behind using Oled Light at 100 (in 2D) and lower brightness to below 50? Isn't brightness below 50 going to give black crush?

I believe I read that this method will defeat ABL which auto dims the picture.

[RockyIII]

Originally Posted by ray0414

I believe I read that this method will defeat ABL which auto dims the picture.

But wouldnt that be part of the calibration process? And if so, wouldnt that vary from one unit to another? In other words, what ABL issues you might experience may not be what I experience, so Oled Light 100 and Brightness 49 might be too subjective.
I am just throwing my initial thoughts out there, I am no expert

[elwaylite]

Contrast is white level, not black level. It has nothing to do with black.

Oled Light 100 and Contrast set at whatever level you need for light output reduces the affect of ABL.