Odd 3D Issue - Cannot sit normal distance

[Emoto]

Here is an issue I just ran into that I have not seen before, and although I searched the forum, I failed to find anyone else with the same issue, so apologies if a dupe.

This one 3D disc of uncertain origin that I borrowed from a friend forces me to sit close to the TV or the 3D doesn't work. If I sit at my normal viewing distance (approximately 8' from the screen) the 3D is still separated as though I was not wearing 3D glasses. However, if I move forward to maybe 5' from the screen, the 3D pops into clear view.

The system works perfectly with any commercial 3D BR that I own, so it is the disc.

I have simply not seen this before. Have you?

Is there any way to compensate for this?

And yes, I will give my buddy a full ration of s--t for handing me a bad(?) disc when I see him next.

[Oboler]

A complete guess, but perhaps forensic watermarking on the movie affecting the RF channel the glasses and tv are using?

[Emoto]

Originally Posted by Oboler

A complete guess, but perhaps forensic watermarking on the movie affecting the RF channel the glasses and tv are using?

Interesting thought. Of course, I cannot rule anything out. I can say that there was nothing visible on the screen other than movie content, and once I was close enough, the 3D snapped into place and appeared clear/normal.

[Jlardonio]

Originally Posted by Emoto

Interesting thought. Of course, I cannot rule anything out. I can say that there was nothing visible on the screen other than movie content, and once I was close enough, the 3D snapped into place and appeared clear/normal.

Try to find that movie's thread and look in to the posts if there are people mentioning about that fact.

[bavanut]

Originally Posted by Emoto

If I sit at my normal viewing distance (approximately 8' from the screen) the 3D is still separated as though I was not wearing 3D glasses. However, if I move forward to maybe 5' from the screen, the 3D pops into clear view.

Discovery question: Sitting at the normal 8-foot viewing distance, please observe the stereo image through the left eye only, covering the right eye. Then observe the stereo image through the right eye only, covering the left eye. Repeat this same procedure for both eyes at the 5-foot distance.

Do you observe a "double image" in one eye only in any of these four situations? If so, which ones?

If you do not observe a "double image" when looking at the screen with one eye only in any of these four situations, then I would wish to ask additional discovery questions.

[the13thman]

Originally Posted by Jlardonio

Try to find that movie's thread and look in to the posts if there are people mentioning about that fact.

I'm assuming the reference to a disc being "of uncertain origin" is code for bootleg so the solution is to get an original disc.

[Jlardonio]

Originally Posted by the13thman

I'm assuming the reference to a disc being "of uncertain origin" is code for bootleg so the solution is to get an original disc.

Yes, i understand that, but he didn't mentioned what movie was... it could still be a weak 3D movie of sorts.

[Emoto]

Originally Posted by bavanut

Discovery question: Sitting at the normal 8-foot viewing distance, please observe the stereo image through the left eye only, covering the right eye. Then observe the stereo image through the right eye only, covering the left eye. Repeat this same procedure for both eyes at the 5-foot distance.

Do you observe a "double image" in one eye only in any of these four situations? If so, which ones?

If you do not observe a "double image" when looking at the screen with one eye only in any of these four situations, then I would wish to ask additional discovery questions.

I will give this a try some evening and post the results. It may take me a week or so.

[Joe D.]

Originally Posted by the13thman

I'm assuming the reference to a disc being "of uncertain origin" is code for bootleg so the solution is to get an original disc.

Hi 13th.

Good point and that would explain it!

[Emoto]

Originally Posted by the13thman

I'm assuming the reference to a disc being "of uncertain origin" is code for bootleg so the solution is to get an original disc.

Originally Posted by Joe D.

Hi 13th.

Good point and that would explain it!

If someone is kind enough to loan me a disc, I am not going to give them the 3rd degree about where they got it. Not my business. I am going to thank them for the loan and return it in the same condition I got it in. I suspect it may be what we think it might be, but that ceases to be my problem the moment I hand it back.

I was curious as to whether anyone had seen this sort of issue before and if so, if anyone knew of a way to correct it. We have so many knowledgeable people. Either way, I'll probably give it back this weekend and that will be that.

[globalimages2]

W/o any more information about "the problem", it's hard to find a good explanation. It would help if you told us which equipment the problem is showing up in. If it is a projector and a DLP type of projector with DLP-link type of glasses, there is a high chance that the problem is related to the glasses losing sync at a larger distance from the screen due to the content of the film being too similar to the synch signal used ("a bright white light flash"). If the film is composed of "too white/bright" scenes "popping out" frequently at a high brightness level, that is known to cause the glasses to potentially lose sync, specially in models with color wheels that do not contain white (RGB/YMC). The DLP-Link glasses synch best in a sweet spot distance from the screen. They tend to lose sync if you get much farther away from that, synch improves if you get to that point or closer. It doesn't "happen with other films" either because the glasses just happen to start to be low in batteries or, like I said, because the film includes scenes of large high-brightness content which the detector in the glasses confuses with the DPL-link pulse.

If it's not a projector but a TV you are watching, if it is active glasses it could still be a similar problem, though certainly more puzzling as the glasses do not use a "white light" pulse to synch. But it could be using infrared light and then again be low in batteries or something and the illumination from the screen in that particular title could again be messing with it. Unlikely, but possible. As it could be a failing power supply in the TV throwing enough EMI from the back light and that film happens to produce the frequency noise (likely harmonic) to just mess with the RF synch signal. I.e. that disc happens to be the only disc you have that is 30fps (video-porn, just joking) as opposed to the most common 24fps and the back-light flicker in that mode is making the EMI noise. Anyway, if active glasses of any kind, charge/replace batteries first and try again.

Anyway, there are many other possible reasons, without more information, it's hard to tell. If you've told us the title of the film, the model number of the TV/projector being used, the type/model of the glasses using (passive/RF/IR/HD3D), it could pbbly help to figure out what's happening.

Like others suggested, it could also be a problem with fusing the images as photographed in that particular film. So it would help a lot if, when you experience the "double image" problem (while being far away from the screen), you would close one eye and see if you can still see double images. If so, get closer to the screen, still with one eye closed, and see if it "consistently" gets double/and/not-double with just one eye as you move closer/far. Depending on the answer to these questions, we can further determine where the problem might be.

If you could "pause" the film and take four pictures with your phone i.e., one through the right eye lens of the glasses, another through the left while being "far away" from the screen, where the double image problem occurs, and then get closer to the TV/screen until the problem is gone and take again 2 pictures through the right and left lenses of the glasses, I'm sure we can likely determine what the problem is.

[Emoto]

Originally Posted by globalimages2

W/o any more information about "the problem", it's hard to find a good explanation. It would help if you told us which equipment the problem is showing up in. If it is a projector and a DLP type of projector with DLP-link type of glasses, there is a high chance that the problem is related to the glasses losing sync at a larger distance from the screen due to the content of the film being too similar to the synch signal used ("a bright white light flash"). If the film is composed of "too white/bright" scenes "popping out" frequently at a high brightness level, that is known to cause the glasses to potentially lose sync, specially in models with color wheels that do not contain white (RGB/YMC). The DLP-Link glasses synch best in a sweet spot distance from the screen. They tend to lose sync if you get much farther away from that, synch improves if you get to that point or closer. It doesn't "happen with other films" either because the glasses just happen to start to be low in batteries or, like I said, because the film includes scenes of large high-brightness content which the detector in the glasses confuses with the DPL-link pulse.

If it's not a projector but a TV you are watching, if it is active glasses it could still be a similar problem, though certainly more puzzling as the glasses do not use a "white light" pulse to synch. But it could be using infrared light and then again be low in batteries or something and the illumination from the screen in that particular title could again be messing with it. Unlikely, but possible. As it could be a failing power supply in the TV throwing enough EMI from the back light and that film happens to produce the frequency noise (likely harmonic) to just mess with the RF synch signal. I.e. that disc happens to be the only disc you have that is 30fps (video-porn, just joking) as opposed to the most common 24fps and the back-light flicker in that mode is making the EMI noise. Anyway, if active glasses of any kind, charge/replace batteries first and try again.

Anyway, there are many other possible reasons, without more information, it's hard to tell. If you've told us the title of the film, the model number of the TV/projector being used, the type/model of the glasses using (passive/RF/IR/HD3D), it could pbbly help to figure out what's happening.

Like others suggested, it could also be a problem with fusing the images as photographed in that particular film. So it would help a lot if, when you experience the "double image" problem (while being far away from the screen), you would close one eye and see if you can still see double images. If so, get closer to the screen, still with one eye closed, and see if it "consistently" gets double/and/not-double with just one eye as you move closer/far. Depending on the answer to these questions, we can further determine where the problem might be.

If you could "pause" the film and take four pictures with your phone i.e., one through the right eye lens of the glasses, another through the left while being "far away" from the screen, where the double image problem occurs, and then get closer to the TV/screen until the problem is gone and take again 2 pictures through the right and left lenses of the glasses, I'm sure we can likely determine what the problem is.

Sorry:

Panasonic VIERA TC-P55ST30 55-Inch 1080p 3D Plasma HDTV TV (RF not IR, I believe)
Panasonic DMP-BDT360 3D Blu-ray Disc Player
Panasonic active shutter glasses

Not a particularly bright movie at all.

I was concerned about the state of charge of the glasses, as I had not watched any movie, let alone 3D, in months. I charged each pair for 3 hours and then repeated my viewing to see if it changed the point at which the images converged. It did not. I did this before I posted this thread.

I should have time later this week to try these things. Thanks for taking the time!