Bi-amp on 806 or no?

[BLindsay]

So i was thinking about bi-amp'ing which is currently how im setup but im in the process of redoing my room and i was thinking. According to the Bench test for my Reciever it does 107.2 watts with 5 channels driven and it drops to 79.6 watts with 7 channels driven. So when i run bi-amp im loosing power correct? Really wonder whats the better option then

[ryandubbz]

Waiting for responses too

I have the onkyo 706 and i was told that if i bi-amped or (bi-wired) my speaker output was brought all the way down to 25 watts

[CasualKiller]

What the local mom and pop shop explained to me, and I asked about this in another thread and never got a response. When you look at your binding posts one is labeled High and one labeled Low. When you have your jumpers in place you are running the highs and lows off of the total 107 watts. If you were to bi-amp you would be running the High off of its own 79 and the Low off its own 79.

In the instance of my speakers the High only runs the tweeter, if I disconnect the cable all I get is midrange and bass.

[Steve]

There's a sticky on bi-amping and bi-wiring here. I hope it helps with your questions.

Originally Posted by CasualKiller

What the local mom and pop shop explained to me, and I asked about this in another thread and never got a response. When you look at your binding posts one is labeled High and one labeled Low. When you have your jumpers in place you are running the highs and lows off of the total 107 watts. If you were to bi-amp you would be running the High off of its own 79 and the Low off its own 79.

In the instance of my speakers the High only runs the tweeter, if I disconnect the cable all I get is midrange and bass.

That's interesting. I've never thought of it like that. I would be curious to know how that affects real-world use. But don't forget that when you cut your mains down to 79 watts, you're doing the same thing to your center and surrounds, and since they're not bi-amped you're not getting the (possible) benefits of 79 watts to a woofer and 79 watts to a tweeter. You're just getting 79 watts.

[solarrdadd]

based just on what some of you have said, using the receivers feature to bi-amp causes a "loss" or "lowering" of power out to the speakers. I see that as a bad thing. I would stay with standard non bi-amping configuration. if you really want to get closer to true bi-amping (for everyone getting ready to jump on it, notice i said true) then you would need to go passive and get two seperate amps one for each section of speaker or get one amp, let the amp power your low freq's and let your receiver power your high freq's. but i would and could never tell you go go with something that lowers the power out to your speakers especially for HT, that's when clipping comes into play during points when you really need peak reserves for action scenes and you don't have it.
so for you with 806 & 706, i recommend sticking with the standard config, not the bi-amping. of course if your will to accept lower power to bi-amp with the receiver, then, have at it!

[solarrdadd]

Originally Posted by CasualKiller

What the local mom and pop shop explained to me, and I asked about this in another thread and never got a response. When you look at your binding posts one is labeled High and one labeled Low. When you have your jumpers in place you are running the highs and lows off of the total 107 watts. If you were to bi-amp you would be running the High off of its own 79 and the Low off its own 79.

In the instance of my speakers the High only runs the tweeter, if I disconnect the cable all I get is midrange and bass.

your high freq & low freq will only draw as much power as they are required to reproduce the given signal input at the requested volume, based on the design of the speaker. if you have your volume set to one notch above when it's mute, then you will not be drawing anywhere near the max rating of that receiver or amp because your not asking it to. the amout of power needed to produce sound levels at the volume you request for a particular scene is what is important. when you get a hugh explosion in a movie with lots of low freq and say some good highs mixed in there, your your system volume is up high, then your speakers will get a high signal (demand for volume) and will try to accomidate that request and draw the power needed to reproduce that volume level you have requested.

[CasualKiller]

Originally Posted by fireman325

There's a sticky on bi-amping and bi-wiring here. I hope it helps with your questions.



That's interesting. I've never thought of it like that. I would be curious to know how that affects real-world use. But don't forget that when you cut your mains down to 79 watts, you're doing the same thing to your center and surrounds, and since they're not bi-amped you're not getting the (possible) benefits of 79 watts t a woofer and 790 watts to a tweeter. You're just getting 79 watts.

This never occurred to me as I am a vinyl / HT hybrid my main focus has been on Music performance over HT.

[Steve]

Originally Posted by CasualKiller

This never occurred to me as I am a vinyl / HT hybrid my main focus has been on Music performance over HT.

Sorry for the typos there. Original post corrected.

[jomari]

too slow to get my reply on this one.

you can tell this is sometimes a big discussion point amongst people, but you can also see my standpoint on this.

considering your current setup? i say no.

[crazyBLUE]

Originally Posted by jomari

too slow to get my reply on this one.

you can tell this is sometimes a big discussion point amongst people, but you can also see my standpoint on this.

considering your current setup? i say no.

I agree !

[tootall82103]

I Bi-amped my Beta 50s with my 805 awhile back. I had to switch it back and forth between standard and bi-amped a couple times but ended up not hearing any differences. so I opted for a non bi-amped setup to reduce wire clutter.

[Big Daddy]

The proper way to bi-amp or tri-amp your speakers is with external amplifiers. I have been doing this for over 15 years. If you want to go one step further and really benefit from bi-amping, you should bypass the internal crossovers of the speakers and use an active external crossover network. The professionals do it all the time and most external active crossovers are sold in pro shops. A few are available on Amazon.

Also remember that the tweeter needs less power than the big bad woofer.