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#2 |
Special Member
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I seen one mounted in a wall, I think it was on AVS....
main thing is ventilation you have a link to the Mantis box??? Is this a house (& do you own it) & what is above the room.. attic or 2nd story ... if attic does it get 'super' hot in there... thinking you could install a mortized lift mount too rais/lower it & then in the attic build a houseing unit to protect it from dust & major temp changes when not used. |
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#3 | |
Active Member
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#4 |
Active Member
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Here is the link to the mantis box-- I can't see the pictures from my work computer so don't know what it looks like.
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/hi_sto...899831,00.html It is a house that I own and above the room is the Master bedroom. I live in AZ so temps outside are hot but we keep the house cool. In the wall I don't know if it would work as it would be going at the back end of the room which will face the sun in the morning. |
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#5 | |
Special Member
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#6 |
Active Member
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Don't think a ceiling mount would work for my room. I have a ceiling fan with light kit and the pulls that hang down so those would block the projection.
Think I will need to go with a cabinet behind the couch and do a custom pop up. Looks like I need to get some plans drawn up and do some research! |
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#7 |
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#13 | |
Blu-ray Samurai
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This is from the Panasonic AE3000 manual. They usually are the same ![]() |
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#14 |
Active Member
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I will look at that link tonight when I get home as it is blocked from work lol
I was looking on the Panasonic site and came across their Throw Distance calculator. http://www.panasonic.com/business/pr...69/ae2000.html Most of it is pretty straightforward but when I look at the optical shift I am confused between HS1 and HS2. Now how do I read that? HS2 is 1.8x the projected screen which on a 100" would be 180". Is that how far I can move the projector to the left or righ of the screen center and still have it throw correctly to the screen? Thanks! |
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#15 | |
Expert Member
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HS2 is just the sum of your screen width and and HS1*2 (HS1 being 0.4x your screen width), hence HS2= 1.8x screen width. So in the absence of any vertical lens shift, you would be able to shift your projected image 0.4x your screen width (40") to one side or the other from dead center using the horizontal lens shift. There is a relationship between horizontal and vertical lens shift, such that you lose some of one if you use the other-- you cannot max out both at the same time. Most installers state that you should try to avoid horizontal lens shift if at all possible. It is pretty much a given in most installations that vertical lens shift will be used, since it is hard to line a projector dead center on a screen and not have something get in the way, like a viewer's head or the head of a seat. No lens shift at all is probably best for image quality (center of the lens typically has the least aberration) but if you've got to choose one, vertical shift is typically preferable. Most projector lenses are designed with vertical lens shift, to some degree, in mind. |
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