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Old 06-09-2015, 11:01 PM   #1
cuzzin cuzzin is offline
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Default Suggestions for fixing this bass rattle?

I am using a shelf I bought from IKEA to hold my media equipment. The only problem with the shelf was that it had no openings in back that wires and plugs could go through. So I had to go and cut the openings myself. Only problem is this appears to have weakened the board behind the center channel and now, when there is a high amount of bass being output from that channel, the board behind it rattles. Here is an example of what I'm talking about (this scene from Jason Goes to Hell is when I first noticed it):


As you can see, when I apply force to the back board with my hand, the rattle stops. Any suggestions on a more permanent solution?
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Old 06-09-2015, 11:59 PM   #2
Bodyslide Bodyslide is offline
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Maybe just add a few screws on the back with something weighted on it.
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:46 AM   #3
Shagadelic Shagadelic is offline
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It's inevitable.
In a closed cablinet. Re-enforce the cabinet as much as possible.
Or replace the piece with a board that doesn't flex.
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Old 06-13-2015, 01:09 AM   #4
cuzzin cuzzin is offline
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I was actually starting to think of removing that center back panel altogether. Originally I did have the thought of taping something heavy, like a board piece, to the back panel. Maybe I'll try that first.
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Old 06-13-2015, 01:19 AM   #5
nst7 nst7 is offline
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Perhaps spne kind of Isolation pads might help.
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Old 06-13-2015, 03:10 AM   #6
Stilljoe Stilljoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzzin View Post
I was actually starting to think of removing that center back panel altogether. Originally I did have the thought of taping something heavy, like a board piece, to the back panel. Maybe I'll try that first.
Many IKEA products rely on the back panel to hold the structure square - the whole thing might collapse if you remove it. Cutting a hole should not have done any harm unless your hole extends to the edges.
I agree with the suggestion to add screws. If you want to stiffen the back more, maybe add a strip of thin board, secured to the back and to the shelves with small nails or better screws. The particleboard will probably split if you don't drill pilot holes!
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Old 06-13-2015, 11:18 PM   #7
MikeMyers MikeMyers is offline
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Take everything off the shelf first, then remove that panel...Add wood glue to all the parts that touch each other, then screw back together...Wait about 2 hours for it to set up, before adding your components/weight on the shelf...It will solve the problem
You can also remover that piece, and add thin strips of rubber (like the things that loosen jar lids) or layers of teflon tape, between the back board and the unit, then screw back together..but I would use the wood glue first
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Old 06-14-2015, 02:47 AM   #8
cuzzin cuzzin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stilljoe View Post
Many IKEA products rely on the back panel to hold the structure square - the whole thing might collapse if you remove it. Cutting a hole should not have done any harm unless your hole extends to the edges.
I agree with the suggestion to add screws. If you want to stiffen the back more, maybe add a strip of thin board, secured to the back and to the shelves with small nails or better screws. The particleboard will probably split if you don't drill pilot holes!
This seems like a good idea. Screwing a thin piece of board to the back panel should have the effect of thickening it, which is what I think is needed. Will definitely consider this option.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMyers View Post
Take everything off the shelf first, then remove that panel...Add wood glue to all the parts that touch each other, then screw back together...Wait about 2 hours for it to set up, before adding your components/weight on the shelf...It will solve the problem
You can also remover that piece, and add thin strips of rubber (like the things that loosen jar lids) or layers of teflon tape, between the back board and the unit, then screw back together..but I would use the wood glue first
This seems interesting, though if it doesn't work then I have pieces glued together for no reason. I feel like the rattle comes more from the center area of the back panel, above the hole I cut for the AVR wires to go through (the biggest hole I cut).
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Old 07-15-2015, 11:51 PM   #9
cuzzin cuzzin is offline
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For anyone interested in how I solved this problem, this is what I came up with:

[Show spoiler]

Very high-tech, as you can see. And yet another use for Brawny paper towels.
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Thanks given by:
Bodyslide (07-16-2015)
Old 07-16-2015, 02:43 AM   #10
Bodyslide Bodyslide is offline
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You should paint them to match the cabinet...
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Old 07-16-2015, 05:40 AM   #11
cuzzin cuzzin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodyslide View Post
You should paint them to match the cabinet...
Yeah, I'm not sure how permanent these particular fillers are gonna be. Then again, knowing how lazy I can be, they might be more permanent than I think. I just did it on a whim today after another aggravating bout of shelf rattle during Ex_Machina last night. Seems to be doing the trick though.
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Old 07-30-2015, 05:09 AM   #12
bobos bobos is offline
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you can apply dynamat on the back of the cabinet, that stuff works great on cars, cant see why it wouldn't work on a cabinet.
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Old 07-30-2015, 05:36 PM   #13
ImPulSive ImPulSive is offline
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Or perhaps some black or other color felt. I use thick black felt from Joann's Fabric for dampening, light control and it works well. If you check your local paper for weekend ads or sign up with them there are usually some good coupons where you can save up to 50% on a single cut of fabric.
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