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#1 |
Member
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Hello-
Building out a home theater as part of a new home build. Room is 18'9x12, with two small windows. Have had an initial consult with a company locally here, and will buy equipment with them and have them install it, but hoping to solicit the folks here for some assistance. Here is a link to actual drawing, it does say unfinished attic space but it will be finished. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gofg3hzrg...7LSqJofza?dl=0 The windows face west and will be free and clear of any kind of helpful obstruction of sun light, and the sun shines bright in Texas! (sadly) Here is where I would love some assistance for those that have done this before. In the past I have converted rooms to my media room. With a dedicated build I want to do it right! 1. Was guided to buy a "slate" screen by screen innovations and it would minimize the potential problems with the light from the small windows. Most of my viewing will be in the evening but weekends at times as well. - What solutions are out there to cover a window that do not look tacky (I have a wife...). Was thinking an insert of some kind? Maybe I won't actually need one. 2. I want to do Dolby Atmos, some of my favorite flicks have Atmos tracks, and leadning Klipsch. for receiver I was advised to go Marantz SR7010. This set up is exclusively for watching movies, not to support multiple rooms and not to drive anything other than my speakers. That the right receiver? I am not married to a receiver brand and think that north of 1k dollars for a receiver seems excessive. 3. 12 feet the right distance for the projector? 4. Anything special I should do with electrician other than putting the wiring for the projector in the ceiling where I want it mounted? 5. What should I be thinking about for acoustic treatment/fixtures? Room is over a garage and the two internal walls are next to the hallway to the upstairs balcony and a large game room Any other advice is appreciated. I know these are a bit generic questions, hoping with the details I have provided I can get some useful feedback. Equipment I am planning at the moment, though not definitive as I want to list to some others is Klipsch RP280,RP450,RP25s(x2), JBL Audio Subs, 4k Projector Really appreciate any insights Best, Jamie |
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#3 |
Special Member
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4. My electrician set a box at 10' when we built the house. He ran central vac pipe as a channel to feed everything from the receiver to the projector.
When we did the actual install a few years later I needed to be at 13' so nothing we had worked. I had the electrician move the electric back a few weeks, but he didn't do anything with the pipe. It was a chore for the installers to cut a few holes in our finished ceiling and fish a 25' HDMI from the A/V equipment to the projector. If I had it to do over again I would have put my A/V equipment in a separate, easy to access location. |
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#4 |
Blu-ray Baron
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To some tradesman (electrician, plumber, HVAC), "Unfinished attic/basement" on a blue print means "I can run my wire/pipes/ducts any way I want as long as it's to code." It's convenient for them but not when you want to finish a space when duct work and pipes are not tucked into joists. Make sure you stay on top of the build, especially during the mechanical rough-in or you may have headaches later.
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#5 |
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Thanks for the advice guys. I wasn't clear in my initial post on the unfinished attic portion. That unfinished space is on the initial spec sheet from builder, but there's an option to finish it out which is what I'm doing. The room will be floored and sheet rocked as part of the build, as opposed to later on.
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#6 | |
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This is interesting suppose I'm a bit confused about what happened here? My plan had been projector at say 12 feet and all equipment at front of the room in a cabinet under the screen. You had to move the projector placement back a foot? What might cause that to happen. One other question- with atmos, does it make sense to be seated in front of the projector or behind it, assuming the overhead speaker placement. Thanks. |
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#7 | |||||
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Depends... haha... uhhh...every projector has a different throw distance. do some digging on google and you will quickly find a projector throw distance calculator. You can put the actual brand of projector you have and adjust the screen size, and placement to see if it will deliver optimal light output. Quote:
I would also see if you can have a dedicated breaker for the outlet running your equipment. And begin to think about what king of lighting you want (recessed, sconce, rope lighting, dimmer switches) Also, are you gonna have electrical reclining seats?.... will they sit on a riser?.... if so, would you like an outlet built into the riser?.... things to think about electrically speaking Quote:
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Keep doing your research around here and other sites. Before you put drywall up double and triple check that you have all your speakers, subs, component cables in the walls where you want them. And run a few extra speaker wires, HDMI cables, and maybe a sub cable to places where you might use it in the future. Save you some trouble later on down the road. |
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Thanks given by: | Jamie P (01-03-2017) |
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#8 | |
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This was a kick ass post. Exactly what I was hoping for. Really appreciate the detailed response and insights! Jamie |
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Thanks given by: | lamont360 (01-03-2017) |
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#9 |
Blu-ray Samurai
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lamont360 covered everything really well, I'll chip in a couple of thoughts.
Window Coverings - Lots of options to cover your windows, but to block light 100% without actually doing something ugly is difficult. I used horizontal blinds in my last build for my window but in behind the blinds I actually cut and fit black cardboard. Even with blackout fabric blinds if they aren't snug against the wall you will get light leaking around the edge of the blinds, nothing that will impact your picture but your window will have that halo look and if it is in your peripheral it could be a distraction. I could block my window out because it was in a window well that opened on the outside into my backyard and was obstructed by a deck. How the outside of your house looks is just as important to many wives as the inside so that is where blocking windows out together gets tricky. 4K Projector - To my knowledge there is still only the offerings from Sony that are "true" 4K and those cost a bundle and are rather gigantic, not sure what your ceiling height in the space is but even if you are looking at the JVC's, those suckers aren't small either. Like lamont360 said, throw distance is dependant on your projector, anything that is 4K capable likely has some pretty good placement flexibility but you will want to put some thought into where it lands in relation to your seating in that if your ceiling height isn't that high you wouldn't want it right over your seating and it can be distracting if it is in front of your seating too... so figure out what projector you are getting before you commit to seating placement. Placement of gear - Unless you are considering putting the gear behind doors at the front or you are buying gear that you can turn the displays off then I would find another place to put it. Any light other than the screen at the front of your room is distracting... imo ![]() |
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Thanks given by: | Jamie P (01-03-2017) |
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#10 | |
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As far as a cabinet... well that was a really good call out that I had not given much though to. The light is definitely going to distract from the picture..... ugh. More to think on. Thanks very much! Super helpful. |
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#11 | |
Blu-ray Samurai
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#12 |
Blu-ray Guru
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For the windows, do you want to be able to use them some of the time, or do you want to cover them full time, but still have it look okay? I used a vinyl blocker (uses velcro to attach to the framing around the window) and then have blinds in front of them. From inside the room, all you see is the blinds. From the outside, the window is blacked out (mine are basement windows in the back yard). Pretty much 100% blocking of light with this method, and looks fine.
I think it's EZblackout or something like that. |
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#13 | |
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Thanks this is also helpful. I'll have a look. My wife would actually be *okay* if it didn't look ideal inside, I need the blinds to show on the outside ![]() |
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#15 |
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I'm going to play around with this idea but really like the blackout stuff referenced a few posts above. It's very affordable and easily pulled down. Thinking I go with that solution and put it up when needed during the day.
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#16 | |
Blu-ray Guru
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#17 |
Member
Mar 2010
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How many bodies are you looking to seat?
If that's to be a dedicated home theater, the windows could get blinds to look good from the outside and you could hide the windows via fabric covered frames, which could be hinged, or cleat hung, for easy removal, when you want to air the room. I don't know about the Mrs' wants and tastes, but would some thing like Art Install's The Loft, might be pretty hit a design mark. http://www.artinstall.ru/en/projects/loft If this is to be three seats, then maybe you look into an inexpensive acoustically transparent screen, and use a bit of the room's length to hide the front speakers/sub. That's another thing that is high in WAF. Might want to check bulbs prices for those projectors... |
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#18 |
Member
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This thread is a few days old
![]() Denon 4300 Klipsch 280fa 450c 250s x2 Rm150 X2 Power sound audio XS30 Oppo 203 120 inch screen- Stewart I believe 4 seats currently, single row. Room ended up being 16 feet long by 20 feet wide. Big nice comfy chairs ![]() Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk |
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#19 |
Guest
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I want to know the best equipments for build a Home Theater for a 20 Feet X 20 Feet Hall Room. Cost is not a mater, i want better performance only.
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