Sony PS3 Firmware 1.8 Update Notes

[jon s]

I posted some of this on other postings, but i think it may be informative enough for its own thread....

Regarding the 1.8 update, this is what I noticed:

1. Upscaling works thru HDMI and works great! If your display can show true 1080P, watching high bit rate standard DVDs is a revelation. Watching Pixar's "The Incredibles" in 1080P is truly a visual feast, with fine detail that is close to HD, more like 720P in clarity. Unfortunately, bad transfers shows it's faults with it's higher compression artifacts more visible than before.

The source DVD plays a very important role in upscaling DVDs. DVDs with high bit-rates (i.e. less compression) of 7-8 Mb/sec appears a lot more detailed than DVDs with lower bit-rates of 3-5Mb/sec.

If you watch Pixar's "The Incredibles" upscaled, the picture quality is impressive, nearly equaling high def. OTOH, watching the recent "King Kong" movie which is nearly 3 hours on one disc, results in a mediocre image, no matter what you do. You can only extract so much information from a movie, and if the DVD does not have the info, well.... you can't get anything from nothing. Same with Casino, the movie runs nearly three hours, so you will not see much improvement.

Remember that all the "special features", DTS and foreign language soundtracks all results in less space for the movie itself which means higher compression and less info in the movie. usually movies under 100 minutes or DVDs with no special features or added tracks will look better when upscaled.

Sony's so-called SuperBit titles may not be improved over their standard titles as they usually add DTS soundtracks which can take away several hundred megabytes of space on the disk. This depends if the original DVD had a lot of special features which may have taken more space than the DTS soundtrack would.

2. The PS3 now passes ALL the Silicon Optix HQV STandard DVD tests. Previously, the PS3 was terrible. It had failed all the HQV tests, but now it passes all the cadence, detail, interlacing and text scrolling tests. The racing car scene locks in immediately with no moire effects. The fluttering flag shows no jagged artifacts on the edges. The rotating bar tests show no problems with interlacing.

Playing Joe Kane's Digital Video Essentials also shows that the upscaling features on the PS3 does an impressive job in the demo video.

3. Not mentioned but available is 1080P at 24Hz (Blu-Ray only) for displays that can accept the signal. Previously, the PS3 only supported 60Hz which introduced a judder when scenes showed any horizontal panning. This is due to the fact that movies are filmed at 24Hz and converting to 60Hz does not result in an even cadence (i.e. 24 fps cannot be converted to 60Hz evenly).

You should leave the 1080P24 setting to auto. Let the PS3 determine if the display can handle the 24Hz.

4. The PS3 runs hotter!! Previously, my PS3 ran pretty quiet. After the upgrade, the units' fans now run louder than before. Obviously, all these new features are making the cell processors work harder, so it's generating more heat.

5. The PS3 now has the option to display a wider dynamic range of the gray scale. It was said that the PS3 had a crushed white issue (the image would lose detail in whites) and selecting the wider range expands the upper end to eliminate this problem. Some posters also noted that the PS3 also can pass below black now on pluge patterns (but my display does not so I cannot verify). This means the PS3 should now be able to display the proper range from white to black without losing information.

Overall, the v1.8 firmware is must have if you plan to watch DVDs on the PS3. The PS3 now outperforms my Denon 3930CI DVD player with the Reon processor which is no small feat. The details at 1080P from standard DVDs are so much better, it really can look hi-def with good DVDs. At 720P, the image is much improved over 480P but it really must be seen at 1080P as it shows an improvement even over 720P. I have a Marantz VP12S3 720P projector and the improvments are definitely noticeable. I have also seen the updated PS3 connected to a JVC RS-1 1080P projector (which is probably the best front projector currently out with a contrast ratio of 15,000:1 without resorting to any dynamic iris like all other projectors). With the RS-1 at 1080P, the PS3 really shines with standard DVDs. Watching the SuperBit "The Fifth Element", Pixar's "The Incredibles" will make you think you are watching high def. The only failings is that standard DVDs do not have the same color quality has Blu-Ray. But watching DVDs on the PS3 is a revelation.

[Deciazulado]

Originally Posted by jon s

Previously, the PS3 only supported 60Hz which introduced a judder when scenes showed any horizontal panning. This is due to the fact that movies are filmed at 24Hz and converting to 60Hz does not result in an even cadence (i.e. 24 fps cannot be converted to 60Hz evenly)

60 Hz judder is added to any direction movement, up down left right diagonal coming towards you going away and random grain. (We notice it more in horizontal pan because of predator/prey evolutionary specialization )

Also remember that 24fps judder will still remain, but that is part of the 24fps filming proccess.

Originally Posted by jon s

The PS3 now has the option to display a wider dynamic range of the gray scale. It was said that the PS3 had a crushed white issue (the image would lose detail in whites) and selecting the wider range expands the upper end to eliminate this problem. Some posters also noted that the PS3 also can pass below black now on pluge patterns (but my display does not so I cannot verify). This means the PS3 should now be able to display the proper range from white to black without losing information.

mmmm. So what does this do? add levels 1-15 (below black) and 236-255 (above white) to the signal? My PS3 outputs levels 16-235 as levels 16-235 and I (and anyone else) should calibrate video levels 16 to 0% black (no light output) and 235 to 100% white (full light otput) so I've never understod why do you want to "see" something that can't be seen.


Great post. I may update my PS3 to 1.8. Soon.

[Frode]

Originally Posted by Deciazulado

mmmm. So what does this do? add levels 1-15 (below black) and 236-255 (above white) to the signal? My PS3 outputs levels 16-235 as levels 16-235 and I (and anyone else) should calibrate video levels 16 to 0% black (no light output) and 235 to 100% white (full light otput) so I've never understod why do you want to "see" something that can't be seen.

There was a thread on this a couple of years back on AVS. It was rather heated, but eventually a consensus was reached by the experts.

First of all, when calibrating black level 16 isn't always supposed to be 0% - you calibrate the display so you can't see the difference in levels, but with keeping the viewing environment in mind. Ambient lighting and things such as masking (in an FP setup) can have significant effect on calibrated black level. Sometimes it may mean 0%, but not always.

Second, in the component color space they're using, only luma is restricted to 16-235. Chroma uses above and below. The problem then becomes that you can have a pixel that in RGB color space would translate to 128,240,237. If you clip the signal at 235 the result is 128,235,235 which would change the tint of the pixel slightly, and it's not even a "white" pixel. Same goes for if you have pixels with BTB values. These are also taken into account if any image processing is done on the video (scaling, deinterlacing + whatever junk you can't turn off in your display) so it's important that they're maintained throughout the processing chain.

Hope that makes sense.

[Deciazulado]

Originally Posted by Frode

There was a thread on this a couple of years back on AVS. It was rather heated, but eventually a consensus was reached by the experts.

First of all, when calibrating black level 16 isn't always supposed to be 0% - you calibrate the display so you can't see the difference in levels, but with keeping the viewing environment in mind. Ambient lighting and things such as masking (in an FP setup) can have significant effect on calibrated black level. Sometimes it may mean 0%, but not always.

Second, in the component color space they're using, only luma is restricted to 16-235. Chroma uses above and below. The problem then becomes that you can have a pixel that in RGB color space would translate to 128,240,237. If you clip the signal at 235 the result is 128,235,235 which would change the tint of the pixel slightly, and it's not even a "white" pixel. Same goes for if you have pixels with BTB values. These are also taken into account if any image processing is done on the video (scaling, deinterlacing + whatever junk you can't turn off in your display) so it's important that they're maintained throughout the processing chain.

Hope that makes sense.

Yes it makes sense if you think that's what should be done, but I'll tell you what, I don't follow consensuses, I follow the mathematics (I evaluate final light output of images in dLog) and if you're adjusting black levels to chase ambient room levels, you're not calibrating to a standard , you'll get images that have different contrasts on each different display depending on the room. It would be akin to using different loudness compression settings (you know, those night settings for audio on some receivers) for every persons room's ambient noise when evaluating a recording.

You know that gamma is 2.2 no? Well that means that on a calibrated display the light output of the tones have to have a slope of at least 2.2. If you follow that, you won't even see the "above black" PLUGE with the lights off till about several minutes sitting in the dark. For example using the 10 IRE (video level 22, RGB level 7) above 7.5 IRE (video level 16, RGB level 0) black PLUGE, it should be 2818 times darker than maximum 100 IRE white in gamma 2.2. So anything below the above black won't ever be seen, so I don't know why, for viewing, you have to even have below black. It's BLACK. It won't "exist"

when calibrating black level 16 isn't always supposed to be 0% - you calibrate the display so you can't see the difference in levels, but with keeping the viewing environment in mind. Ambient lighting and things such as masking (in an FP setup) can have significant effect on calibrated black level. Sometimes it may mean 0%, but not always.

^^ Following this is what screws everything. Because when you misadjust black you affect the contrast of the grey scale. Everybody then is seeing something different from everybody and not the exact same thing. And anyway we're talking about "below black", and as I showed you, anything below "above black" is BLACK so it doesn't exist. Even that 'above black' little rectangle's existence 2818 times below white is a little suspect

Second, in the component color space they're using, only luma is restricted to 16-235. Chroma uses above and below. The problem then becomes that you can have a pixel that in RGB color space would translate to 128,240,237. If you clip the signal at 235 the result is 128,235,235 which would change the tint of the pixel slightly, and it's not even a "white" pixel.

But that will happen anyway when you set levels 235 to be the maximum white of the display (255). It'll be clipped because anything over 235, 235, 235 will be white: 255, 255, 255.

If you don't set 235 as white on your display, you'll lose brightness and contrast ratio/dynamic range, so your $10,000 lcd/dila with the 12,000:1 contrast ratio will never reach it, and ends up being only about 9,000:1. Or your cheaper 1000:1 one will only be 800:1, like last year's model. Because you set white levels that way, just to preserve the chroma of maybe a couple of bright Christmas tree lights that would show almost white anyway and were probably recorded knowing they'd end up that way in the end.

Also, there's the matter of banding. If you set your 8-bit (or less!) displays with video level 235 as 235, you have 20 levels less to make sure the below-235 levels fall where they should (and here the black level setting/2.2 contrast issue might also make the remaining 220 levels not have enough level "slots". (If you have 235 be 235, and you adjust 16 not dark enough (lets say for example to level 17 on the display, because you raised black levels more than standard because ambient light falling on the blacks, now you only have 219 levels to reproduce 220, so now you end up with one more discontinuity appearing on a tone ramp. etc) (Hi-bit displays with contrast ratios that go beyond what's necessary would be great for this, though )

That's why I wanted to know if this "Full" setting added levels 0-15 and 236-255 to the PS3's RGB 16-235 output (as people say it didn't pass them before) (Since I don't use or watch below black or above white signals, I never bothered to look for them ), or if instead, it remaps 16-235 into 0-255 for correct display on a RGB device that expects 0-255 levels (instead of 16-235) for proper levels of black and white. Which would be useful.

(No I haven't installed 1.8 yet, that's why I asked )

[Frode]

Actually if you don't take ambient lighting into effect when calibrating you will still get different results depending on room simply because in one room the blacks will be essentially crushed, while in the other detail will be more visible. You have to take viewing environment into account because our eyes are the final instruments that are going to be watching things. You can argue maths all you like, but by ignoring lighting and essentially crushing the blacks you're reducing the effective CR just as much, and changing how the picture is supposed to look to boot.

Anyway, the point was that BTB/WTW is actually used for picture information and processing, and so should be sent by the player. You still have to calibrate the display so that white and black are correct - by that I don't mean 16 = 16 and 235=235, but that the difference between 16 and 0-15 is indistinguishable and 235 and 236-255. That means that for digital displays values above/below WTW/BTW will usually be clipped for the final output (for analog they won't) - they'll still be used to decide how the final image will look.

It can actually be a problem on some sets that use dynamic contrast processing and the like because changes in the WTW values will screw up the processor's overall evaluation of how bright an image is and then change the overall brightness settings of the display. This problem is very visible if you have a DVD that uses white subtitles - they're usually 255,255,255 and so every time they show up on screen it'll screw up the display. It's just one example of why dynamic contrast processing and the like should just be removed IMO.

P.S I don't claim to be an expert on this and I'm pretty much just going by memory on the information contained in the old AVS thread, so I reserve the right to be totally wrong . I'd dig it up again but unfortunately it seems to have fallen into the archive hole. There's some info on it in the calibration thread however:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4&page=1&pp=30

-
I also don't know for sure whether it maps studio RGB levels to PC levels or if it just passes BTB/WTW - I'm still using analog component for now until I can get a more high-end display with hdmi later so I can't test.

[Frode]

This thread is also useful:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4&page=1&pp=30
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...hreadid=416292

So according to that it looks like you may not want to calibrate to clip at 16/235.

[theknub]

deci, want to come calibrate my t.v.?

reading you all day is like saying, damn! i have to be doing something wrong

[dialog_gvf]

Originally Posted by jon s

2. The PS3 now passes ALL the Silicon Optix HQV STandard DVD tests. Previously, the PS3 was terrible. It had failed all the HQV tests, but now it passes all the cadence, detail, interlacing and text scrolling tests. The racing car scene locks in immediately with no moire effects. The fluttering flag shows no jagged artifacts on the edges. The rotating bar tests show no problems with interlacing.

Playing Joe Kane's Digital Video Essentials also shows that the upscaling features on the PS3 does an impressive job in the demo video.

WOW!!!

We need a new commercial:

PC: Hello, I'm a PC
PS/3: And I'm a PS/3

PS/3: PC, why are you looking so glum?
PC: Well, I've just upgraded to Vista and it offers little useful that is new, and makes a lot of what I did before harder.
PS/3: Funny, we just got the greatest upgrade in the history of mankind. We can upscale DVDs and PS/2 and PS/1 games, and even stream video and audio from you over a network.
PC: Well whoopie do for you. I'm going to go watch King Kong again on my Xbox 360 + add-on. It's pretty great, but I sure wish the audio was better.
PS/3: I'm watching Pirates of the Carribean, with HD audio at 24p
PC: (Runs off stage) I'm going to talk to Amir!

Gary

[blitz6speed]

Originally Posted by dialog_gvf

WOW!!!

We need a new commercial:

PC: Hello, I'm a PC
PS/3: And I'm a PS/3

PS/3: PC, why are you looking so glum?
PC: Well, I've just upgraded to Vista and it offers little useful that is new, and makes a lot of what I did before harder.
PS/3: Funny, we just got the greatest upgrade in the history of mankind. We can upscale DVDs and PS/2 and PS/1 games, and even stream video and audio from you over a network.
PC: Well whoopie do for you. I'm going to go watch King Kong again on my Xbox 360 + add-on. It's pretty great, but I sure wish the audio was better.
PS/3: I'm watching Pirates of the Carribean, with HD audio at 24p
PC: (Runs off stage) I'm going to talk to Amir!

Gary

That reminds me, bets on when we will see HD-DVD infomercials? Im thinking mid-late January, staring A-Man. B-Man will be the guy with the headset taking calls.

[ps3andlovinit]

Originally Posted by blitz6speed

That reminds me, bets on when we will see HD-DVD infomercials? Im thinking mid-late January, staring A-Man. B-Man will be the guy with the headset taking calls.

During the Toronto Blue Jays game on Rogers Sportsnet they just ran a T.V. ad that was EXCLUSIVELY about the POTC on Blu-ray, the interactive dice game etc...it was NOT one of the ads mainly about DVD with blu-ray tacked on. Just all about BLU.

Go Disney..

[Galley]

Originally Posted by ps3andlovinit

During the Toronto Blue Jays game on Rogers Sportsnet they just ran a T.V. ad that was EXCLUSIVELY about the POTC on Blu-ray, the interactive dice game etc...it was NOT one of the ads mainly about DVD with blu-ray tacked on. Just all about BLU.

Go Disney..

Yeah, it's playing here in the U.S. as well.

[HDTV1080P]

Originally Posted by jon s

I posted some of this on other postings, but i think it may be informative enough for its own thread....

Regarding the 1.8 update, this is what I noticed:

1. Upscaling works thru HDMI and works great! If your display can show true 1080P, watching high bit rate standard DVDs is a revelation. Watching Pixar's "The Incredibles" in 1080P is truly a visual feast, with fine detail that is close to HD, more like 720P in clarity. Unfortunately, bad transfers shows it's faults with it's higher compression artifacts more visible than before.

The source DVD plays a very important role in upscaling DVDs. DVDs with high bit-rates (i.e. less compression) of 7-8 Mb/sec appears a lot more detailed than DVDs with lower bit-rates of 3-5Mb/sec.

If you watch Pixar's "The Incredibles" upscaled, the picture quality is impressive, nearly equaling high def. OTOH, watching the recent "King Kong" movie which is nearly 3 hours on one disc, results in a mediocre image, no matter what you do. You can only extract so much information from a movie, and if the DVD does not have the info, well.... you can't get anything from nothing. Same with Casino, the movie runs nearly three hours, so you will not see much improvement.

Remember that all the "special features", DTS and foreign language soundtracks all results in less space for the movie itself which means higher compression and less info in the movie. usually movies under 100 minutes or DVDs with no special features or added tracks will look better when upscaled.

Sony's so-called SuperBit titles may not be improved over their standard titles as they usually add DTS soundtracks which can take away several hundred megabytes of space on the disk. This depends if the original DVD had a lot of special features which may have taken more space than the DTS soundtrack would.

2. The PS3 now passes ALL the Silicon Optix HQV STandard DVD tests. Previously, the PS3 was terrible. It had failed all the HQV tests, but now it passes all the cadence, detail, interlacing and text scrolling tests. The racing car scene locks in immediately with no moire effects. The fluttering flag shows no jagged artifacts on the edges. The rotating bar tests show no problems with interlacing.

Playing Joe Kane's Digital Video Essentials also shows that the upscaling features on the PS3 does an impressive job in the demo video.

3. Not mentioned but available is 1080P at 24Hz (Blu-Ray only) for displays that can accept the signal. Previously, the PS3 only supported 60Hz which introduced a judder when scenes showed any horizontal panning. This is due to the fact that movies are filmed at 24Hz and converting to 60Hz does not result in an even cadence (i.e. 24 fps cannot be converted to 60Hz evenly).

You should leave the 1080P24 setting to auto. Let the PS3 determine if the display can handle the 24Hz.

4. The PS3 runs hotter!! Previously, my PS3 ran pretty quiet. After the upgrade, the units' fans now run louder than before. Obviously, all these new features are making the cell processors work harder, so it's generating more heat.

5. The PS3 now has the option to display a wider dynamic range of the gray scale. It was said that the PS3 had a crushed white issue (the image would lose detail in whites) and selecting the wider range expands the upper end to eliminate this problem. Some posters also noted that the PS3 also can pass below black now on pluge patterns (but my display does not so I cannot verify). This means the PS3 should now be able to display the proper range from white to black without losing information.

Overall, the v1.8 firmware is must have if you plan to watch DVDs on the PS3. The PS3 now outperforms my Denon 3930CI DVD player with the Reon processor which is no small feat. The details at 1080P from standard DVDs are so much better, it really can look hi-def with good DVDs. At 720P, the image is much improved over 480P but it really must be seen at 1080P as it shows an improvement even over 720P. I have a Marantz VP12S3 720P projector and the improvments are definitely noticeable. I have also seen the updated PS3 connected to a JVC RS-1 1080P projector (which is probably the best front projector currently out with a contrast ratio of 15,000:1 without resorting to any dynamic iris like all other projectors). With the RS-1 at 1080P, the PS3 really shines with standard DVDs. Watching the SuperBit "The Fifth Element", Pixar's "The Incredibles" will make you think you are watching high def. The only failings is that standard DVDs do not have the same color quality has Blu-Ray. But watching DVDs on the PS3 is a revelation.

Your post has a lot of very accurate and good information. The JVC front projector is one of the best front projectors and a bargain. The JVC can out perform projectors that cost 3 times more.
Yes I agree one should leave the 1080P/24 setting to automatic on the PS3. The PS3 will first try to communicate with the display at 1080P/24, if that fails then it will switch to 1080P/60. The off mode should only be used if there is a incompatibility with auto detection and the display will not display a signal. One important note most displays have a info screen that will inform the user if the signal they are receiving is 24HZ or 60HZ.

[simpspin]

Originally Posted by jon s

I posted some of this on other postings, but i think it may be informative enough for its own thread....

Regarding the 1.8 update, this is what I noticed:


5. The PS3 now has the option to display a wider dynamic range of the gray scale. It was said that the PS3 had a crushed white issue (the image would lose detail in whites) and selecting the wider range expands the upper end to eliminate this problem. Some posters also noted that the PS3 also can pass below black now on pluge patterns (but my display does not so I cannot verify). This means the PS3 should now be able to display the proper range from white to black without losing information.

^^^In regards to this part of the update, has anyone's PS3 need to have the RGB's "FULL" setting reset every time they played a standard DVD? My PS3 on the RGB screen still is set at "FULL" but the screen and movie is still running on "LIMITED."

[rucumn]

Originally Posted by simpspin

^^^In regards to this part of the update, has anyone's PS3 need to have the RGB's "FULL" setting reset every time they played a standard DVD? My PS3 on the RGB screen still is set at "FULL" but the screen and movie is still running on "LIMITED."

I though I was the only one with this problem. Anyone know whats going on and how to fix this???

I have the same problem with thr RGB setting on full. When I turn it to the full setting. I can tell it's on because everything on the screen is darker, but then when I play a movie it go back to the Limited Setting, but still says its on RGB FULL. The way I can tell its on Limited, but says Full is because everthing went back to a very light black. Can someone tell me what is wrong, or how I can fix this problem.

[davidxiphoid]

Hi Everyone,

first off let me say what a great site and forum. I'm glad I found it.

ok so I have ps3 and want to install the new ps3 update that would allow me to upscale to 1080i on SD dvd's. but my problem is I have it hooked up to my sony 36 inch via component cables. I see on the ps3 site that it says I can only do this with an hdmi connection if I wish to view upscaled 'copywrite protected' dvds? is this true or should it still work with component?

I have an older 1081i HDTV with NO hdmi connection.

thanks!

[HDTV1080P]

Originally Posted by davidxiphoid

Hi Everyone,

first off let me say what a great site and forum. I'm glad I found it.

ok so I have ps3 and want to install the new ps3 update that would allow me to upscale to 1080i on SD dvd's. but my problem is I have it hooked up to my sony 36 inch via component cables. I see on the ps3 site that it says I can only do this with an hdmi connection if I wish to view upscaled 'copywrite protected' dvds? is this true or should it still work with component?

I have an older 1081i HDTV with NO hdmi connection.

thanks!

Every single DVD player that upconverts to 720P, 1080I, and 1080P including the PS3 requires either a DVI or HDMI connection when upconverting copy write protected DVD’s. 95% of all DVD’s are copy protected. You can up convert some low budget workout videos and documentaries that are not copewrite protected to 1080I over component.
In general upconverting DVD’s from 480I to 1080I/P is a very small improvement compared to true HDTV BLU-RAY discs. Some cheap upconvert DVD players on the market do a poor job and the upconvert picture is worse quality then before. Other DVD players do a excellent upconvert job and the quality is a little better then 480I, but nothing like a good BL-RAY disc.
Every DVD player or BLU-RAY player that upconverts only works over DVI or HDMI for copy protected DVD’s. Up convert is not true HD, but Hollywood does not allow it since they are afraid people are going to some how copy an upconverted 480I source DVD using component video. The funny thing is there is no consumer electronics device made that allows recording over component video.

[Stuie]

Originally Posted by davidxiphoid

Hi Everyone,

first off let me say what a great site and forum. I'm glad I found it.

ok so I have ps3 and want to install the new ps3 update that would allow me to upscale to 1080i on SD dvd's. but my problem is I have it hooked up to my sony 36 inch via component cables. I see on the ps3 site that it says I can only do this with an hdmi connection if I wish to view upscaled 'copywrite protected' dvds? is this true or should it still work with component?

I have an older 1081i HDTV with NO hdmi connection.

thanks!

Welcome to the forum. Hope you like it here.

[Deciazulado]

Originally Posted by Frode

Actually if you don't take ambient lighting into effect when calibrating you will still get different results depending on room simply because in one room the blacks will be essentially crushed, while in the other detail will be more visible. You have to take viewing environment into account because our eyes are the final instruments that are going to be watching things. You can argue maths all you like, but by ignoring lighting and essentially crushing the blacks you're reducing the effective CR just as much, and changing how the picture is supposed to look to boot.

Yeah that's true , but room flare affects mainly the shadows and doesn't affect highlight and midtone contrast (or "gamma") that much; while adjusting black level affects gamma (contrast) of all the image. (Remember, in theaters, prints don't have adjustable black level, they only have one built-in contrast that's standardized, and depending if the theater reduces room flare or not, you get the intended contrast. Same goes for video, contrast is standardized and you should control room light to get as close to it) (I paint my walls black )

thanks for the links, I'll read them



__________________
flare is the light killer. flare is the little deci that brings total obliteration.
I will face my flare. I will permit it to pass over me and through me.
And when it has gone past I will turn the light meter to see its path.
Where the flare has gone there will be nothing.
Only light will remain. - Blu-Bene Gesserits