Panasonic UB820/UB9000 4K UHD Blu-ray player

[Gretiem]

Is it worth getting the ub9000 this late into its release cycle or should I hold off ?

[Robert Zohn]

@Gretiem. No successor to the UB9000 BD player is planned.

[Fred Bang]

Originally Posted by pbz06

Yes, it would be a good idea for troubleshooting purposes to try connecting the audio out straight to the receiver.

Also, just to be sure...once the top menu loads up for each of those movies; what happens if you manually select Dolby Digitial 5.1 instead of relying on some kind of auto setup? SOme movies you have to start it before switching it.

What do you mean by manually selecting DD5.1? Where do you do that exactly?

[chip75]

Originally Posted by Fred Bang

What do you mean by manually selecting DD5.1? Where do you do that exactly?

I'd assume you'd press the POP-UP button and select the 5.1 option, in case the disc defaults something else.

But it sounds like the HDMI connection may have issues. Have you made sure everything is clean?

[Geoff D]

Originally Posted by chip75

Looking at the boards of the 420, 820 and 9000 the solder points look quite meaty, they're literally pinpricks in my SONY. I'd be tempted if Currys still had the 420, but I'm not going to crack open my only 4K player.

__________________________________________________ _____________

I've asked this in the past ... when you're watching an Atmos movie, when you press PLAYBACK INFO. on the remote is there anything to indicate Atmos is playing? I've tried everything, with my Denon if I cycle through the audio options Atmos does come up (I don't think the Denon's switch automatically?). Does that mean everything is okay (I think one of the pseudo modes comes up with an Atmos source).

There isn't a player on the planet that will show Atmos or DTS:X in their info screens because the actual bitstreams that are encoded to disc are TrueHD and DTS-HD (or their lossy equivalents, depending on the encode) respectively. The object based metadata is carried within these bitstreams and only when it hits a compatible AVR will it decode the object based audio atop the channel based audio, this is to ensure compatibility.

Originally Posted by Fred Bang

I don't because the great thing about passing through the TV is that I can use all the HDMI inputs (player, PS4, apple TV) and output through a single digital output.

That being said, I may try to plug the digital directly, just to see if it solves the issue.

As for the secondary Audio, it IS turned off.

So the AVR just has optical then, no HDMI inputs at all? I aks because if not then you're greatly reducing the quality of the audio from these sources for the sake of convenience.

[chip75]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

There isn't a player on the planet that will show Atmos or DTS:X in their info screens because the actual bitstreams that are encoded to disc are TrueHD and DTS-HD (or their lossy equivalents, depending on the encode) respectively. The object based metadata is carried within these bitstreams and only when it hits a compatible AVR will it decode the object based audio atop the channel based audio, this is to ensure compatibility.

Thanks, mate. It's nice to hear confirmation of that!

[Fred Bang]

Originally Posted by chip75

I'd assume you'd press the POP-UP button and select the 5.1 option, in case the disc defaults something else.

But it sounds like the HDMI connection may have issues. Have you made sure everything is clean?

Well the same setup (same cables) worked perfectly with the Sony x800.

[tama]

So experience advice needed here.....Being new to this Player connected to an OLED (2017 B7) for titles that are mastered in 1000 nits do I still wan to proceed to run the Optimizer? Or leave it off and let the tv's Active HDR do the work?

Been reading alot of old post from this thread and trying my best to process the wealth of info laid out. But I'm layman with the info I'm reading.

Any help or advice appreciated.

[pbz06]

Originally Posted by tama

So experience advice needed here.....Being new to this Player connected to an OLED (2017 B7) for titles that are mastered in 1000 nits do I still wan to proceed to run the Optimizer? Or leave it off and let the tv's Active HDR do the work?

Been reading alot of old post from this thread and trying my best to process the wealth of info laid out. But I'm layman with the info I'm reading.

Any help or advice appreciated.

If a title is 1000 nits or less, it wouldn't (or shouldn't) matter if the HDR Optimizer is On or Off.

[Fred Bang]

Originally Posted by pbz06

If a title is 1000 nits or less, it wouldn't (or shouldn't) matter if the HDR Optimizer is On or Off.

I concur. I've played a lot yesterday with movies mastered at 1000 (mostly marvels) and saw zero difference flipping it on / off.

[chip75]

Originally Posted by Fred Bang

Well the same setup (same cables) worked perfectly with the Sony x800.

I'd try unplugging everything and trying the 820 in each of the SONY's HDMI inputs. AS well as trying the Panasonic's optical output.

HDMI signal Format hasn't reverted back to Standard format?

Have you changed any of the HDMI and Sound options on the 820?

[Fred Bang]

Originally Posted by chip75

I'd try unplugging everything and trying the 820 in each of the SONY's HDMI inputs. AS well as trying the Panasonic's optical output.

HDMI signal Format hasn't reverted back to Standard format?

Have you changed any of the HDMI and Sound options on the 820?

Everything is pretty much set as Auto (4K), Deep Color Auto etc.

[chip75]

Originally Posted by Fred Bang

Everything is pretty much set as Auto (4K), Deep Color Auto etc.

Have you got another optical cable to try? or audio leads?

[tama]

Originally Posted by pbz06

If a title is 1000 nits or less, it wouldn't (or shouldn't) matter if the HDR Optimizer is On or Off.

Right but here's my example:

Disneys Frozen. 1000 nits

With no Optimizer but turning Active HDR on the overall image becomes brighter.

If I turn off the Active HDR in my OLED which seems the be recommend when using the optimizer, the image becomes darker on the whole with no difference in the image between the Optimizer being on or off.

So I'm a bit confused as to what's correct?

[pbz06]

Originally Posted by tama

Right but here's my example:

Disneys Frozen. 1000 nits

With no Optimizer but turning Active HDR on the overall image becomes brighter.

If I turn off the Active HDR in my OLED which seems the be recommend when using the optimizer, the image becomes darker on the whole with no difference in the image between the Optimizer being on or off.

So I'm a bit confused as to what's correct?

It depends on your TV's dynamic tone mapping (what you call active), and whether it's better to have it on or off. I'm not familiar with yours, so I don't know.

In your scenario, HDR Optimizer doesn't matter if you have it on or off. Toggling Active HDR on or off is what changes your picture. My guess is that Off is more accurate and follows the EOTF more closely, and I'm thinking the Active tries to brighten the picture where it can or darkens it in darker scenes .

[gnicks]

Originally Posted by tama

Right but here's my example:

Disneys Frozen. 1000 nits

With no Optimizer but turning Active HDR on the overall image becomes brighter.

If I turn off the Active HDR in my OLED which seems the be recommend when using the optimizer, the image becomes darker on the whole with no difference in the image between the Optimizer being on or off.

So I'm a bit confused as to what's correct?

I have a B7 also. Although the active HDR does deliver a brighter image, I have found that some highlight detail is being lost, even in 1,000 nit content.

So I generally leave the HDR optimizer on and active HDR off.

[nachoju95]

Originally Posted by gnicks

I have a B7 also. Although the active HDR does deliver a brighter image, I have found that some highlight detail is being lost, even in 1,000 nit content.

So I generally leave the HDR optimizer on and active HDR off.

I also have a B7, I never tried having HDR Optimizer On and HDR Active Off. Which movies did you try? Or in which did you notice the difference?

[Ruined]

Originally Posted by Gretiem

Is it worth getting the ub9000 this late into its release cycle or should I hold off ?

If you want the best overall player for Blu-ray/UHD discs, yes.

[Fred Bang]

Well, yesterday I watched about 6 movies and had zero problem until the very end (Attack of the Clones... which I though looked waaaay better than I remembered, thanks to that player).... Anyway during the trooper attack scene, it froze again for 2 seconds, garbling the sound, but going HOME and coming back fixed the issue.

That being said I WILL be returning that player in exchange for a new one. I don,t want to take the chance that the reader is faulty and will break for real in a month.

[sapiendut]

Really sound like there is something wrong with that player. Exchange it.