Panasonic UB820/UB9000 4K UHD Blu-ray player

[tama]

Originally Posted by wxman2003

That is with the low latency Dolby profile that most 2017 and newer tv's use. The 2016 LG OLEDs don't use that profile, so blacks aren't elevated. Actually crushed a bit, so setting a click or 2 above 50 solves it. I believe the B7 uses the same chip as the E6, so it probably doesn't use the low latency profile either.

Right I remember you explaining that issue. But the poster I quoted has a 2017 B7 model like mine I believe they stated. That's why I asked.

[wxman2003]

Originally Posted by tama

Right I remember you explaining that issue. But the poster I quoted has a 2017 B7 model like mine I believe they stated. That's why I asked.

I do think the E6 and B7 use the same chip. If that's the case, it will perform like the E6 with regards to DV, and thus why the OP raised the brightness.

[EddieLarkin]

Originally Posted by wxman2003

I did some more testing on my E6 last night with HDR optimizer and the S&M UHD disc. if you are going to use optimizer and select luminance, you must set the brightness correctly for the luminance you use. A brightness setting in your tv for OLED luminance will be incorrect for basic luminance when Optimizer is engaged. Using HDR dark room on my tv, and panel set to OLED and optimizer on, with a default brightness of 50, I could barely see 4% on the pluge pattern. So there is major crush going on. I raised brightness to 53 to correct the crush and to see 2% clearly. Switching to basic luminance with HDR optimizer engaged, a brightness of 50 allowed me to see 2% clearly. Once you have figured your brightness correctly for the luminance you select, there is no difference in near blacks. One does not look flatter than the other. Leaving the brightness at the default of 50 on the E6 for HDR10 has been wrong for years.

You are right that 50 on the E6 is not correct for HDR10 or DV, which is why I have them both at 52.

What you're suggesting is if using basic luminance on an E6, one should set their Brightness to 50 so that Optimiser can then correct the crush? That would explain why when I tested basic luminance everything looked quite washed out, as I still had Brightness on 52.

But why bother at all? You still get a wholesale dimming of the bright areas of the screen, not just a raising of the black floor. On further testing it seems you don't always gain extra highlight information either, but instead lose it.

On The Shallows I found many instances of the clouds in the sky becoming one dull blob of white when basic luminance is engaged, whilst they are fairly distinct with the Optimiser off, and OLED luminance keeps them this way, whilst improving highlight info here and there.

Clearly, as Geoff has experienced, the basic luminance setting works as it should on other TVs, but on the E6 it seems completely broken to me

[wxman2003]

Originally Posted by EddieLarkin

You are right that 50 on the E6 is not correct for HDR10 or DV, which is why I have them both at 52.

What you're suggesting is if using basic luminance on an E6, one should set their Brightness to 50 so that Optimiser can then correct the crush? That would explain why when I tested basic luminance everything looked quite washed out, as I still had Brightness on 52.

But why bother at all? You still get a wholesale dimming of the bright areas of the screen, not just a raising of the black floor. On further testing it seems you don't always gain extra highlight information either, but instead lose it.

On The Shallows I found many instances of the clouds in the sky becoming one dull blob of white when basic luminance is engaged, whilst they are fairly distinct with the Optimiser off, and OLED luminance keeps them this way, whilst improving highlight info here and there.

Clearly, as Geoff has experienced, the basic luminance setting works as it should on other TVs, but on the E6 it seems completely broken to me

I'm not arguing there are not issues with the 2016 models with HDR10. Let's be honest, they are one of the worst OLED's for HDR10, other than the 2015 models. Heck, SDR looks better than HDR10 on these tv's. The HDR optimizer as least makes HDR10 tolerable to watch. The only other solution is to get an OPPO and force everything to DV, or to watch only the SDR version. Those 2 solutions don't crush or clip.

Of course, buying a new OLED will improve the HDR10 quality, but the optimizer will still be needed.

[Sagnet]

Originally Posted by Kage

Did Panasonic fixed the issues with the loud fan noise and loud disc drive spinning noise on their latest batches on the ub820?

I just got a brand new 820, and I find it a bit noisy. It differs between different discs. How noisy/quiet is normal for this player?

[wxman2003]

Originally Posted by GenPion

You think HDR looks worse than SDR on 4K with the tv? Even with the optimizer?

Did you actually prefer the Oppo with forced Dolby Vision to using the HDR optimizer?

Without optimizer on, it looks worse than SDR. With it on, it looks just as good or better with more color pop. It may not be a whole lot brighter with specular highlights, but 4K and better color makes it look better. I may even try forcing the panny to play HDR10 as SDR2020. The Oppo does a horrible job doing that, while the Panny is suppose to be much better without the serious crush below 4% that the OPPO has with it's conversion. Forcing HDR10 to DV on the OPPO is hit or miss. I would prefer to watch HDR10 as HDR10.

[GenPion]

Originally Posted by EddieLarkin

You are right that 50 on the E6 is not correct for HDR10 or DV, which is why I have them both at 52.

What you're suggesting is if using basic luminance on an E6, one should set their Brightness to 50 so that Optimiser can then correct the crush? That would explain why when I tested basic luminance everything looked quite washed out, as I still had Brightness on 52.

But why bother at all? You still get a wholesale dimming of the bright areas of the screen, not just a raising of the black floor. On further testing it seems you don't always gain extra highlight information either, but instead lose it.

On The Shallows I found many instances of the clouds in the sky becoming one dull blob of white when basic luminance is engaged, whilst they are fairly distinct with the Optimiser off, and OLED luminance keeps them this way, whilst improving highlight info here and there.

Clearly, as Geoff has experienced, the basic luminance setting works as it should on other TVs, but on the E6 it seems completely broken to me

So you’ve compared both setting options and found OLED Display better for the E6P than Standard?

[GenPion]

Originally Posted by wxman2003

To this day, I still regret not getting the 75Z9D when they were on closeout for $3000. No LCD can match it to this day.

3D is far more impressive on the OLED65E6P (if you are a 3D fan).

[wxman2003]

Originally Posted by GenPion

How many films did you view in OLED mode vs Standard? Did you watch anything twice to compare entire presentations?

I’m not sure why you’d want to use SDR with HDR. Not if the optimizer is as it should be.

At least titles mastered above 1,000 nits (say, those 4,000 nits Sony titles) are brought back down to 1,000 nits with the OLED mode. It might not be “perfect” but it sounds like maybe you should give it another try.

I have around 100 UHD discs about 50/50 DV and HDR10. DV discs always look better than SDR discs on my E6. Not even close with that comparison. With the HDR10 discs is about 50/50. If I have the Panny convert HDR2020 to SDR2020, it may actually look better because there will not be any clipped or crushed highlights. You still get 4K and a wider color gamut compared to 2K SDR709. You only lose the specular highlight punch that HDR gives.

[Scottishguy]

I have a curious issue with Scarface crushing if I leave the tone mapping to my C8. But the optimizer on 820 corrects it

[tama]

I've been playing around with DV. It's hard to get a feel for it between my two players (Other being LG) to see if there is a major discrepancy between both players hearing how the Panny elevates brightness and clips a bit. But its hard as I don't have 2 of the same DV disc to make some direct comparisons.

So I tried toggling between DV on and off (its a quicker switch for me than player to player) and seeing if there a difference with letting the Optimizer run and letting DV do it's thing. I really couldn't detect any difference this way either. DV didn't look like the black were crushing nor did the brightness look elevated. Or if it was was it was ever so slight. Sampled Despicable Me, Top Gun, Far from Home Spider-Man, Shinning.

Guess I'll use the Pannys DV for a while see how it goes.

[GenPion]

It does seem that a brightness of 52 for the OLED65E6P is better for standard HDR10. At least from checking that out tonight. I use a different setting for SDR so I am surprised somewhat from the results.

[Hydra Spectre]

The Japanese version of the UB9000 has Master Grade Video Coding support for 12-bit colour on select Blu-ray titles. Basically a precursor to actual HDR.
Almost all of the Studio Ghibli Blu-rays from Japan (which were mastered by Panasonic themselves) have MGVC so you can test it out if you have one of them.

But what isn't confirmed is if the international version of the UB9000 still has MGVC support or not. Since the model code for both of them is still the same.
I want someone who has both an international UB9000 and an MGVC disc to test if it still has MGVC (12-bit colour) support.

If it does, it may be a better Blu-ray player than the Oppo UDP-205 (though it's still the better music player solely for DVD-Audio and SACD support).

[fullclipfink]

My apologies if this has been discussed before, but I didn't see this particular item discussed over the last 10 or so pages. Most of the discussion has been related to OLEDs in relation to the HDR optimizer, but curious to get some feedback from the projector owners.

I recently got the JVC NX-7 installed and set the picture mode to 'Frame Apart HDR' for 4K content. I have the UB9000 and currently have the HDR optimizer on w/ basic luminance projector selected. However, is there a need for the HDR optimizer for the NX-7 when the projector is performing the dynamic tone mapping? It seems to me there could be conflict with the two working in conjunction. I have yet to play around with turning the HDR optimizer on/off to test so I thought I'd ask this group for their thoughts before I did. Thanks in advance.

[Geoff D]

If you have DTM then there's no need to use the Optimiser IMO.

[gates70]

Originally Posted by fullclipfink

My apologies if this has been discussed before, but I didn't see this particular item discussed over the last 10 or so pages. Most of the discussion has been related to OLEDs in relation to the HDR optimizer, but curious to get some feedback from the projector owners.

I recently got the JVC NX-7 installed and set the picture mode to 'Frame Apart HDR' for 4K content. I have the UB9000 and currently have the HDR optimizer on w/ basic luminance projector selected. However, is there a need for the HDR optimizer for the NX-7 when the projector is performing the dynamic tone mapping? It seems to me there could be conflict with the two working in conjunction. I have yet to play around with turning the HDR optimizer on/off to test so I thought I'd ask this group for their thoughts before I did. Thanks in advance.

Do not use the 820 optimizer with the JVC DTM. Let the JVC handle it.

[Canada]

Just got my UB-820 today (it was on order for about 3 months), haven't given it a spin yet.

[LettuceJUMP]

I was about to order it then sale ended

[jack_of_america]

Has anybody successfully used RegionFreedom for the UB820? I’d love to be able to play some of these Region B discs I own. Can this harm the player at all/any caveats to doing this? Thank you!

[RodChester]

Originally Posted by jack_of_america

Has anybody successfully used RegionFreedom for the UB820? I’d love to be able to play some of these Region B discs I own. Can this harm the player at all/any caveats to doing this? Thank you!

Have you tried the top menu trick? That’ll get most region B discs to play.