Panasonic UB820/UB9000 4K UHD Blu-ray player

[pbz06]

Originally Posted by Badas

Some quick questions if I may??

In the settings there is the ability to turn Dolby Vision on and off. Also HDR10+ on and off. What happens when you turn them off?
Does the Panasonic re-map the HDR info down to a level that a display can handle?
As my display is a projector and I don't recon any projector handles HDR that well I'm thinking it is best to turn both off and let the HCX chipset do a re-map. Am I on the right track?
It occurred to me that if you turn these functions off might mean the player just doesn't output any HDR info. So that is why I'm asking.

Below are the specs on my display (Ultra 3). I set colour Gamut to BT2020.

UHD discs are required to carry a base HDR10 layer. If you disable DV or HDR10+ on a disc that is DV or HDR10+, it will simply revert to the base HDR10 layer...if that makes sense. There's no harm in disabling it, since your projector likely doesn't have that capability (speculating).

With your second question, you can set the player to do an HDR to SDR conversion, but it maintains the WCG which many projectors are able to handle. It depends on your projector and its capability though.

You can also try using the HDR Optimizer and set the target to basic luminance or whatever works best for projectors.

[pbz06]

Originally Posted by Badas

Also...
Does everyone use high clarity sound?
I usually like these things turned off. However in this case the high clarity sound function allows the ability to turn off the display light when playing a disc. A must for me.
I can't hear any adverse effects to high clarity sound being on. I actually think the UB9000 is producing a very clean/clear sound. A little clearer than the UB820. I'm guessing the separate circuitry is helping just a tad.

High Clarity has zerp impact on the HDMI signal chain and any movie playback (it's bitstreamed anyway). It's only for when using it as a DAC with analog connections.

[kevers7290]

Would relegating the audio and video to a single HDMI cable make any difference to A/V sync issues with the UB820? I use a separate cable for HDMI audio and I still occasionally encounter audio video sync issues with my OLED.

[Badas]

Originally Posted by pbz06

High Clarity has zerp impact on the HDMI signal chain and any movie playback (it's bitstreamed anyway). It's only for when using it as a DAC with analog connections.

Nice. Good news.
So I can use it and it flicks of the display with no sound issues.
That ticks the box for me.

[Badas]

Originally Posted by pbz06

UHD discs are required to carry a base HDR10 layer. If you disable DV or HDR10+ on a disc that is DV or HDR10+, it will simply revert to the base HDR10 layer...if that makes sense. There's no harm in disabling it, since your projector likely doesn't have that capability (speculating).

With your second question, you can set the player to do an HDR to SDR conversion, but it maintains the WCG which many projectors are able to handle. It depends on your projector and its capability though.

You can also try using the HDR Optimizer and set the target to basic luminance or whatever works best for projectors.

Yeah. My projector won't do Vision or 10+.
So what happens to Vision or 10+ if they are turned off? Does the info just get throw away or go through an optimizer?

[Badas]

Originally Posted by kevers7290

Would relegating the audio and video to a single HDMI cable make any difference to A/V sync issues with the UB820? I use a separate cable for HDMI audio and I still occasionally encounter audio video sync issues with my OLED.

Would the single cable go to an AVR or straight to your display?

[pbz06]

Originally Posted by kevers7290

Would relegating the audio and video to a single HDMI cable make any difference to A/V sync issues with the UB820? I use a separate cable for HDMI audio and I still occasionally encounter audio video sync issues with my OLED.

If anything, the sync would likely work better.

[pbz06]

Originally Posted by Badas

Nice. Good news.
So I can use it and it flicks of the display with no sound issues.
That ticks the box for me.

Yup, I use it to just for that reason (to turn off the display).

[Geoff D]

Originally Posted by Badas

Yeah. My projector won't do Vision or 10+.
So what happens to Vision or 10+ if they are turned off? Does the info just get throw away or go through an optimizer?

But it does do HDR10? DV and 10+ are optional extensions of the mandatory 'core' HDR10 grade that’s on each and every UHD disc with HDR. In other words, they append extra data to the existing HDR10 signal. In the case of 10+ it's literally just a layer of dynamic metadata, it’s not adjusting the base layer grade itself at the source level. In the case of DV a separate enhancement layer is encoded alongside the HDR10, this layer comes in two flavours: Minimum enhancement (MEL] or full enhancement (FEL). MEL is more or less the same as 10+ in that the core HDR10 grade is not altered, it’s just got dynamic metadata added to it (though it still gets upsampled through the 12-bit DV processing engine which may be superior to a TV's own processing). But FEL is a suite of “difference data” that's derived from comparing the HDR10 to the DV master, it uses this data to “rebuild” the full 12-bit signal as well as restore any grading compromises that were done when creating the HDR10 layer. (Studios tend to use one or the other, as Lionsgate, Universal and Paramount opt for FEL while Sony and Warners employ MEL.)

And yes, all this extra data is basically ignored when played in straight HDR10.

[kevers7290]

Originally Posted by Badas

Would the single cable go to an AVR or straight to your display?

The cable would have to go through my Pioneer AVR (which supports up to 4:4:4 HDMI passthrough).

[HeavyHitter]

Originally Posted by Badas

Some quick questions if I may??

In the settings there is the ability to turn Dolby Vision on and off. Also HDR10+ on and off. What happens when you turn them off?
Does the Panasonic re-map the HDR info down to a level that a display can handle?
As my display is a projector and I don't recon any projector handles HDR that well I'm thinking it is best to turn both off and let the HCX chipset do a re-map. Am I on the right track?
It occurred to me that if you turn these functions off might mean the player just doesn't output any HDR info. So that is why I'm asking.

Below are the specs on my display (Ultra 3). I set colour Gamut to BT2020.

Looking at those specs, it appears to me Dreamvision is simply a re-branded JVC from the same model year as mine. If so, you might still be better served with SDR 2020; this means setting it at the player level AND having a properly calibrated SDR 2020 mode on your projector with a 2.4 gamma. You'll be utilizing the core HDR10 on all discs. I wouldn't recommend trying to find a hack conversion for DV - not worth it and likely worse results. Keep the Optimizer turned On the player as well.

[FilmFreakosaurus]

Originally Posted by HeavyHitter

Looking at those specs, it appears to me Dreamvision is simply a re-branded JVC from the same model year as mine. If so, you might still be better served with SDR 2020; this means setting it at the player level AND having a properly calibrated SDR 2020 mode on your projector with a 2.4 gamma. You'll be utilizing the core HDR10 on all discs. I wouldn't recommend trying to find a hack conversion for DV - not worth it and likely worse results. Keep the Optimizer turned On the player as well.

The HD Fury trick by which you can force 12 bit low latency Dolby Vision output from DV discs at least via the Oppo and upper two Panny 4k players is worth it if you have a projector with decent HDR reproduction and 12 bit support in the first place.

[HeavyHitter]

Originally Posted by FilmFreakosaurus

The HD Fury trick by which you can force 12 bit low latency Dolby Vision output from DV discs at least via the Oppo and upper two Panny 4k players is worth it if you have a projector with decent HDR reproduction and 12 bit support in the first place.

I've heard from a couple of reliable sources the HD Fury-DV trick was questionable. How you been using it?

[FilmFreakosaurus]

Originally Posted by HeavyHitter

I've heard from a couple of reliable sources the HD Fury-DV trick was questionable. How you been using it?

I was thinking about it with my JVC 4k projector. You do need to use a separate calibration memory slot for "DV mode" as the gamma and other controls do need to be adjusted from off your main picture settings.



At least this trick keeps the banding down, especially with true FEL DV content, over the 10 bit HDR layer.

[Badas]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

But it does do HDR10? DV and 10+ are optional extensions of the mandatory 'core' HDR10 grade that’s on each and every UHD disc with HDR. In other words, they append extra data to the existing HDR10 signal. In the case of 10+ it's literally just a layer of dynamic metadata, it’s not adjusting the base layer grade itself at the source level. In the case of DV a separate enhancement layer is encoded alongside the HDR10, this layer comes in two flavours: Minimum enhancement (MEL] or full enhancement (FEL). MEL is more or less the same as 10+ in that the core HDR10 grade is not altered, it’s just got dynamic metadata added to it (though it still gets upsampled through the 12-bit DV processing engine which may be superior to a TV's own processing). But FEL is a suite of “difference data” that's derived from comparing the HDR10 to the DV master, it uses this data to “rebuild” the full 12-bit signal as well as restore any grading compromises that were done when creating the HDR10 layer. (Studios tend to use one or the other, as Lionsgate, Universal and Paramount opt for FEL while Sony and Warners employ MEL.)

And yes, all this extra data is basically ignored when played in straight HDR10.

Thank you for the detailed explanation. Appreciated!

Originally Posted by HeavyHitter

Looking at those specs, it appears to me Dreamvision is simply a re-branded JVC from the same model year as mine. If so, you might still be better served with SDR 2020; this means setting it at the player level AND having a properly calibrated SDR 2020 mode on your projector with a 2.4 gamma. You'll be utilizing the core HDR10 on all discs. I wouldn't recommend trying to find a hack conversion for DV - not worth it and likely worse results. Keep the Optimizer turned On the player as well.

You got it. DreamVision buy from JVC, tweak it and put on their own shell which shaves a few db off the fan noise.
Okay good advice. I'm using THX mode which from what I can tell has a proper calibrated 2.4 gamma. THX mode has the cleanest gamma I have seen.
In the player I turned DV and 10+ off, Optimizer On and set to BT2020. So should I change to SDR2020?
I don't really care about DV or 10+ the result I'm getting is spectacular.

[HeavyHitter]

Originally Posted by Badas

You got it. DreamVision buy from JVC, tweak it and put on their own shell which shaves a few db off the fan noise.
Okay good advice. I'm using THX mode which from what I can tell has a proper calibrated 2.4 gamma. THX mode has the cleanest gamma I have seen.
In the player I turned DV and 10+ off, Optimizer On and set to BT2020. So should I change to SDR2020?
I don't really care about DV or 10+ the result I'm getting is spectacular.

Yes, I would try the SDR 2020 from the player and projector and see what you think. The player outputs a 2.4 gamma in this mode and if THX mode on the projector is giving you 2.4 as well, you're in good shape. My calibrator created a separate 2.4 SDR 2020 custom calibrated mode to use on UHD BD. Optimizer turned On the player. Adjust the luminance slider as you see fit (beware going too high in clicks can result in clipping, artifacts, etc. so try to optimize the light from your projector as most use iris wide open and high lamp for UHD) This set-up has worked extremely well for me.

[Badas]

Originally Posted by HeavyHitter

Yes, I would try the SDR 2020 from the player and projector and see what you think. The player outputs a 2.4 gamma in this mode and if THX mode on the projector is giving you 2.4 as well, you're in good shape. My calibrator created a separate 2.4 SDR 2020 custom calibrated mode to use on UHD BD. Optimizer turned On the player. Adjust the luminance slider as you see fit (beware going too high in clicks can result in clipping, artifacts, etc. so try to optimize the light from your projector as most use iris wide open and high lamp for UHD) This set-up has worked extremely well for me.

Awesome. That is what I will do. It's nice having others with similar equipment.
I can't believe the result from UB9000 and 820. The projector has never looked so great.

[Bob Loblaw]

I suppose I could ask this question here as I couldn't find an answer via the search function. I ordered the DP-UB420 player from Amazon.com, thus I will get a US player delivered to my home here in Finland. Obviously I am aware we use a different type of power plug over here. On the back of the player it says AC 120 V, 60 Hz while on the EU version it would be AC 220-240 V, 50 Hz. I can use the power cord from my previous 4K Panasonic player, but do I also need an adapter or some type of converter also so that the player would function okay and not get damaged?

[FilmFreakosaurus]

Originally Posted by Bob Loblaw

I suppose I could ask this question here as I couldn't find an answer via the search function. I ordered the DP-UB420 player from Amazon.com, thus I will get a US player delivered to my home here in Finland. Obviously I am aware we use a different type of power plug over here. On the back of the player it says AC 120 V, 60 Hz while on the EU version it would be AC 220-240 V, 50 Hz. I can use the power cord from my previous 4K Panasonic player, but do I also need an adapter or some type of converter also so that the player would function okay and not get damaged?

Unless the power supply in the U.S./Canadian version is secretly dual power ready, you will need a power converter, and a good one at that so that the power doesn't fluctuate causing a spike or some such damaging anomaly.

[Bob Loblaw]

Thanks for the response! I found one at a local store, it says "use American machines in Europe", "maximum 50 W" (the specs on these players are about 30 W), but it says "50 Hz" (the US player of course being 60 Hz - would this be an issue?