Panasonic UB820/UB9000 4K UHD Blu-ray player

[chip75]

I've heard some folks get cancelled for not providing pictures in the middle of the night.

[Geoff D]

Yes, I know. Haven't you got some applications that need rejecting? They're not just gonna reject themselves!

[evoll]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

Yes, I know. Haven't you got some applications that need rejecting? They're not just gonna reject themselves!

O nooo he spilled his hater-aid on the apps so reject them all

[js666]

Originally Posted by Cortiz

I have a Sony A9G paired with the UB9000. The A9G has undefeatable DTM. It works well enough so I keep the Panny optimiser off. What do you experts suggest?

I keep mine ON. I clearly see what it does and I prefer it.

[martinstraka8282]

I want to get that firmware just to stop the auto off annoyance, but I assume it would void my warranty?

[BijouMan]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

You can buy a remote that can unlock multiregion DVD playback, or if you have a 'oneforall' remote you can program it yourself.

But these Panny UHD players are pretty poor for NTSC DVD playback anyway, they don't deinterlace 480i as well as they could do and NTSC DVDs can look rather 'jagged' as a result.

DVD-Video discs look great on my UB9000 and VIZIO OLED. Whenever I play one of these discs, I always make sure to change the output resolution to 480p. I have requested that Panasonic add Source Direct like "O" had and other "P" has.

[dontpokethebear3893]

The way I see it, Sony Dynamic Tonemapping works best when the HDR source is capped at 1000 nits. So it's perfect for most HDR10 films, but for those mastered at 4000 nits or more, the Panny optimizer pairs extremely well with the already excellent Sony DTM.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by dontpokethebear3893

The way I see it, Sony Dynamic Tonemapping works best when the HDR source is capped at 1000 nits. So it's perfect for most HDR10 films, but for those mastered at 4000 nits or more, the Panny optimizer pairs extremely well with the already excellent Sony DTM.

And that’s exactly what I do with the LG DTM. It does a great job with things mastered at or slightly above 1,000 nits but after that, it seems to have some issues tone mapping properly which is why I have the Panasonic Optimizer “On” to help that. The LG DTM may not be as great as Sony’s, but it does a good job.

I don’t understand why so many people are railing on me for using it. It’s my preference, but I see the major benefits from it. Again, it’s not perfect but it at least gets close to what most people are wanting out of a 4K OLED TV.

[panasonicst60]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

And that’s exactly what I do with the LG DTM. It does a great job with things mastered at or slightly above 1,000 nits but after that, it seems to have some issues tone mapping properly which is why I have the Panasonic Optimizer “On” to help that. The LG DTM may not be as great as Sony’s, but it does a good job. I don’t understand why so many people are railing on me for using it. It’s my preference, but I see the major benefits from it. Again, it’s not perfect but it at least gets close to what most people are wanting out of a 4K OLED TV.

I never had a problem with you using lg dtm. All I wanted you to understand that with it on, it makes the picture inaccurate to the directors/mastered intent. If you like lg dtm, use it, but just don't confuse newcomers with your misinformation.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by panasonicst60

I never had a problem with you using lg dtm. All I wanted you to understand that with it on, it makes the picture inaccurate to the directors/mastered intent. If you like lg dtm, use it, but just don't confuse newcomers with your misinformation.

I’ve been saying this actually around the forum for months now. All I’ve asked people to do was to try it and see how they like it because it’s has worked beautifully for me.

I don’t see the whole “inaccuracies” to the picture other than a few specular highlight issues here and there. When switched off, the whole picture is dimmer. It also looks like the life was just “sucked” out of the picture. Now when turning DTM on, everything looks like it should. The brightness of the sky in day scenes look great and colors look fuller and more lively. Darks are still dark and brights are still bright.

I have flicked back and forth between the setting being on and off and can’t understand how someone could enjoy the picture with it off. And yes, I’ve watched things on a plasma and the plasma looks even brighter than the OLED without DTM “On.” I mean, is the standard for HDR really that dull and dim?

[Geoff D]

Originally Posted by BijouMan

DVD-Video discs look great on my UB9000 and VIZIO OLED. Whenever I play one of these discs, I always make sure to change the output resolution to 480p. I have requested that Panasonic add Source Direct like “O” had and other “P” has.

Changing it to 480p makes zero difference because the fault lies in the deinterlacing, not the upscaling. There's more jaggedness, more ringing, more colour bleed, I mean DVD is just DVD so maybe people don't scrutinise it all that much (and that's not a snarky jab at anyone) but the OPPO's source direct 480i output is much smoother with less of the aforementioned artefacts.

[panasonicst60]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

I’ve been saying this actually around the forum for months now. All I’ve asked people to do was to try it and see how they like it because it’s has worked beautifully for me.

I don’t see the whole “inaccuracies” to the picture other than a few specular highlight issues here and there. When switched off, the whole picture is dimmer. It also looks like the life was just “sucked” out of the picture. Now when turning DTM on, everything looks like it should. The brightness of the sky in day scenes look great and colors look fuller and more lively. Darks are still dark and brights are still bright.

I have flicked back and forth between the setting being on and off and can’t understand how someone could enjoy the picture with it off. And yes, I’ve watched things on a plasma and the plasma looks even brighter than the OLED without DTM “On.” I mean, is the standard for HDR really that dull and dim?

I do not know what settings you are using on your hdr10. But on a properly setup oled, hdr10 looks absolutely amazing without any enhancement. Yes, I mean zero whatsoever.

Paying for someone to calibrated your tv is pretty good, but imo not the best option. Because when it comes to calibration, even professional calibrators find out new tricks and flaws all the time on any new model. That's why it's so good to get your own gear and software to do your own calibration and verification. Some people don't have the time, which I can understand. But cost shouldn't be the issue, as it is very cheap, considering it's an investment for all your future displays too. I digressed.

[BijouMan]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

Changing it to 480p makes zero difference because the fault lies in the deinterlacing, not the upscaling. There's more jaggedness, more ringing, more colour bleed, I mean DVD is just DVD so maybe people don't scrutinise it all that much (and that's not a snarky jab at anyone) but the OPPO's source direct 480i output is much smoother with less of the aforementioned artefacts.

I asked Panasonic for 480i on DVD-Video too. I have posted on this thread the email I sent to them and the response I received.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by panasonicst60

I do not know what settings you are using on your hdr10. But on a properly setup oled, hdr10 looks absolutely amazing without any enhancement. Yes, I mean zero whatsoever.

Paying for someone to calibrated your tv is pretty good, but imo not the best option. Because when it comes to calibration, even professional calibrators find out new tricks and flaws all the time on any new model. That's why it's so good to get your own gear and software to do your own calibration and verification. Some people don't have the time, which I can understand. But cost shouldn't be the issue, as it is very cheap, considering it's an investment for all your future displays too. I digressed.

I’m using the settings that was given to me by the calibrator minus using the Dynamic Tone Mapping Setting. I’ve not done anything else to the TV because I trust the calibrator that adjusted my TV. My calibrator even sent me the results and everything looks like it should, calibrated to the industry standard and everything.

From my understanding, HDR 10 is naturally dimmer, especially on OLED TVs. This is why so many seem to complain about some movies being super dim, like the Original Star Wars Trilogy on 4K UHD.

In the past, I have calibrated displays using an Xrite Eye 1 Display Colormeter, HD Basic Elements Blu-Ray, and HFFCR Software but that was for SDR. Unfortunately, my colormeter is too old and my knowledge of HDR isn’t as good so I left it to an expert. Getting something like a Klein meter is way too much for me.

Now, there is 1 thing I don’t have enabled right now because of an older AV receiver and that is 24p on my Panasonic 820. Would that make much of a difference if I’m playing the movie at 8 bit vs 10 bit or is that irrelevant??

[pbz06]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

I’m using the settings that was given to me by the calibrator minus using the Dynamic Tone Mapping Setting. I’ve not done anything else to the TV because I trust the calibrator that adjusted my TV. My calibrator even sent me the results and everything looks like it should, calibrated to the industry standard and everything.

From my understanding, HDR 10 is naturally dimmer, especially on OLED TVs. This is why so many seem to complain about some movies being super dim, like the Original Star Wars Trilogy on 4K UHD.

In the past, I have calibrated displays using an Xrite Eye 1 Display Colormeter, HD Basic Elements Blu-Ray, and HFFCR Software but that was for SDR. Unfortunately, my colormeter is too old and my knowledge of HDR isn’t as good so I left it to an expert. Getting something like a Klein meter is way too much for me.

HDR10 shouldn't be "dimmer", it's a specification so it would be absolute to the creator's intent (I'm unsure what you mean by dimmer, compared to what?). 500 nits at the master display should be 500 nits on the TV. If it's too dim, either that TV is fudging the static metadata and how its tonemapping the parts that exceed the TV's capability, or people are complaining about creator's intent.

[Member-425016]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

You did read Panaguy's post, yes, how he applied for the firmware that's being shilled above but got rebuffed? I've had PMs from other people who've been 'cancelled' too for no other reason than missing out a field of information or not providing it quickly enough. Once matey decides he doesn't like you then that's it, he literally blacklists you.

If everyone could just pay and get the firmware there'd be no issue, but if you don't apply for it under the light of a crescent moon on the last day of Autumn whilst smearing yourself in chicken guts and chanting 'ohwhatatwitiam' there's no guarantee.

I didn't know about all the drama, or hoops to jump through connected to it, simply thought if it is a good firmware fix, problem solved. Oh well maybe Panasonic will release a fix sometime in the future, and all will be right in the world.

[dontpokethebear3893]

I am surprised that you keep saying that Dynamic Tonemapping makes HDR brighter on your LG and that it is too dim and unpleasant without it. Here is Vincent showing directly how the APL is darkened to preserve highlight detail when DTM is enabled on LG:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=635&...ature=youtu.be

Make sure to see the "10:35" timestamp.

My description of "crushed" midtones is displayed perfectly on the mans face in this shot. My experience of this was watching John Wick 1 & 2 on an LG CX, and it's replicated by Vincent on video.

I had an LG LCD television that I thought was too dark in HDR once. It turns out I had the incorrect HDMI black level selected. I doubt that's your problem, though, since DTM seems to fix it. I don't think DTM would make up for an incorrect HDMI black level setting lol.

[panasonicst60]

Originally Posted by dontpokethebear3893

I am surprised that you keep saying that Dynamic Tonemapping makes HDR brighter on your LG and that it is too dim and unpleasant without it. Here is Vincent showing directly how the APL is darkened to preserve highlight detail when DTM is enabled on LG: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=635&...ature=youtu.be

Make sure to see the "10:35" timestamp.

My description of "crushed" midtones is displayed perfectly on the mans face in this shot. My experience of this was watching John Wick 1 & 2 on an LG CX, and it's replicated by Vincent on video.

I had an LG LCD television that I thought was too dark in HDR once. It turns out I had the incorrect HDMI black level selected. I doubt that's your problem, though, since DTM seems to fix it. I don't think DTM would make up for an incorrect HDMI black level setting lol.

Lg dtm sometimes it crushes and other times it boost depending on the content. Just boils down to not being accurate as you already know.

[martinstraka8282]

Originally Posted by dontpokethebear3893

I am surprised that you keep saying that Dynamic Tonemapping makes HDR brighter on your LG and that it is too dim and unpleasant without it. Here is Vincent showing directly how the APL is darkened to preserve highlight detail when DTM is enabled on LG: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=635&...ature=youtu.be

Make sure to see the "10:35" timestamp.

My description of "crushed" midtones is displayed perfectly on the mans face in this shot. My experience of this was watching John Wick 1 & 2 on an LG CX, and it's replicated by Vincent on video.

I had an LG LCD television that I thought was too dark in HDR once. It turns out I had the incorrect HDMI black level selected. I doubt that's your problem, though, since DTM seems to fix it. I don't think DTM would make up for an incorrect HDMI black level setting lol.

I was playing around with turning DTM on and off, on my CX last night and it was having a bit of a yoyo effect on the brightness. It seemed like on some scenes it would immediately "brighten" the image as a whole, while other scenes it would have the opposite effect and darken the overall image.

I found it was crushing blacks on a few scenes fairly obviously. If I turned the DTM off, the blacks appeared normal again.

I can see why some might ultimately like the effect it has, but also that it is clearly taking it away from being "accurate", at least imo.

[LordoftheRings]

Originally Posted by panasonicst60

I do not know what settings you are using on your hdr10. But on a properly setup oled, hdr10 looks absolutely amazing without any enhancement. Yes, I mean zero whatsoever.

Paying for someone to calibrated your tv is pretty good, but imo not the best option. Because when it comes to calibration, even professional calibrators find out new tricks and flaws all the time on any new model. That's why it's so good to get your own gear and software to do your own calibration and verification. Some people don't have the time, which I can understand. But cost shouldn't be the issue, as it is very cheap, considering it's an investment for all your future displays too. I digressed.

How much is roughly the video gear you use to calibrate your display?

Is it less expensive than this ... $40
• http://spearsandmunsil.com/portfolio...k-3rd-edition/

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