Panasonic UB820/UB9000 4K UHD Blu-ray player

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by panasonicst60

Let me elaborate a little bit. There will most likely be difference in the peak brightness between DV and HDR10. For example my HDR10 peaks out at 800 nits, as for my DV is at 750. This will relate to the differences that people see. I also want to point out in a few TVs I know, have broken DV in one way or another (broken as I mean out of spec). Even with calibration, the EOTF can't be fixed in some cases. For example, I did a calibration for a friend and his DV EOTF is slightly too bright at 60-70 percent and slightly too dim at 30-40 percent. Compared to his hdr10 which was track the eotf perfectly. This will translate to the differences that people see.


I also want to point out that calibrating a display fresh out of the box is never a great idea. I like Robert a lot at Value Electronics, but providing services like this is slightly misleading. Panels shift quite a bit when compared to a new panel, say 2000 hrs of use. So at 2000+ hrs your panel will need another calibration done to be considered accurate. As it ages the panel will shift a lot less. However one big benefit that is included with his calibration package include Robert personally checking your particular panel for low light panel uniformity, which is great for OLEDs.

Robert and his team broke my TV in before calibrating it. He didn't calibrate it right out of the box. I still have the e-mail letting me know about that. So, he did what he needed to do for the TV. Broke it in, calibrated it, and sent it off to me in perfect condition.

And yes, I do agree that calibrating any instrument, including a TV, is necessary to keep it as accurate as possible. I mean, I'm something of a scientist myself (ha!) so I understand calibration. Most people though aren't going to calibrate their TV every 2,000 or so hours of viewing. It would take a lot of money and hassle just to send it back to Robert, have his team calibrate it again, and send it back to me.

And how much of a difference can 2,000 hours make? Most of these TVs now a days stay pretty high tech and can stay fairly accurate for quite awhile. I can remember constantly calibrating my parent's plasma TV, trying so hard to get it as prefect as possible, and it didn't make much of a difference, even if I got it just a bit more perfect. The point is, these technologies (TVs, projectors, etc) are made for enjoying films, TV shows, gaming, etc. If you worry too much about these being perfect, then it takes out on the enjoyment of the entertainment it brings, which is the main purpose of buying them.

[sapiendut]

You can easily see the difference before and after re-calibration every 1000 hours.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by sapiendut

You can easily see the difference before and after re-calibration every 1000 hours.

Is that by your eyes or by the data that is provided when you are calibrating the TV??

[panasonicst60]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

Is that by your eyes or by the data that is provided when you are calibrating the TV??

Both. I love my OLEDs, but OLEDs are anything but stable.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by panasonicst60

Both. I love my OLEDs, but OLEDs are anything but stable.

Again though, who has that kind of time and money? It sounds like both of you are calibrators or at least have the equipment to do that. For me, my Xrite Eye 1 does not work anymore (probably because it isn't compatible with Windows 10 or 11). That's only good for SDR anyways. I would need to buy a whole new set of things. Plus, I would need to get similar equipment that Robert's team used to calibrate my TV so it would calibrate the same way. It's great that you guys can do it, but for the majority of us, we just don't have the time, money, and equipment.

[sapiendut]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

Is that by your eyes or by the data that is provided when you are calibrating the TV??

By eye. By measurements you can see the difference even every 500 hours.

[Geoff D]

Originally Posted by rroeder

Watched Knives Out last night the metadata screen showed peak brightness 297 nits and avg. 89, thought the movie looked a little dim. I have the optimizer on and using standard setting, med to high LCD for tv type-900F. I did get an audio drop towards the end of the movie when I paused and rewound, had to eject disc and reload, is that something folks are having issues with?

If you were watching Knives Out on UHD then was it in Dolby Vision? If so then the Optimiser is doing nothing. Point of fact, the Panny Optimiser would do nothing with the HDR10 tone mapping anyway because the 297-nit MaxCLL is below even the 500 nit basic LCD setting.

Though what it would do is change the metadata that's being output to the TV, it would alter the maximum mastering display level from 1000 (or whatever) nits to 297 nits, and for some TVs that only read MDL data (they ignore MaxCLL) this can be a big help with the TV's internal tone mapping.

[rroeder]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

If you were watching Knives Out on UHD then was it in Dolby Vision? If so then the Optimiser is doing nothing. Point of fact, the Panny Optimiser would do nothing with the HDR10 tone mapping anyway because the 297-nit MaxCLL is below even the 500 nit basic LCD setting.

Though what it would do is change the metadata that's being output to the TV, it would alter the maximum mastering display level from 1000 (or whatever) nits to 297 nits, and for some TVs that only read MDL data (they ignore MaxCLL) this can be a big help with the TV's internal tone mapping.

Correct it was DV and no metadata was showing under video out, was just pointing out my settings. So if the MaxCLL for the movie exceeds my displays capabilities the optimizer just lowers the nits to match? I had read that it reads the movie's MaxCLL and outputs that to the TV instead of what it was mastered at, but do not understand the process beyond that

[rightformula1]

Question - I want to run my UB820 through my sound bar. If I run 1 cable out (A&V -> sound bar -> TV) I get white spots and dropouts every 7 or so seconds. If I use the same HDMI cords but split the signals (Audio only to sound bar and video only to TV) the issue disappears.

Would this issue resolve with higher bandwidth HDMI cables? Or is the first setup never going to work? My partner watches a lot of YouTube/Netflix so running the TV audio output via optical is annoying her because of the lack of CEC control.

My TV has 3 HDMI out, one is the Chromecast, one is the Blu-ray player (port 2 has the CEC) and the 3rd port is the Xbox.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by rightformula1

Question - I want to run my UB820 through my sound bar. If I run 1 cable out (A&V -> sound bar -> TV) I get white spots and dropouts every 7 or so seconds. If I use the same HDMI cords but split the signals (Audio only to sound bar and video only to TV) the issue disappears.

Would this issue resolve with higher bandwidth HDMI cables? Or is the first setup never going to work? My partner watches a lot of YouTube/Netflix so running the TV audio output via optical is annoying her because of the lack of CEC control.

My TV has 3 HDMI out, one is the Chromecast, one is the Blu-ray player (port 2 has the CEC) and the 3rd port is the Xbox.

It's possible. However it's also possible that your Soundbar can't handle full 4K at 60 Hz signals. Your best bet is just hooking the HDMI Video directly to your TV and the HDMI audio port to the soundbar.

[whedon]

Got the 820 just after Christmas and really like it, a huge upgrade over what I was using. Tried to go down the Region Freedom route but it was one of the most painful back and forths imaginable. They were unable to say what the issue was and got kind of aggressive and abusive when asked exactly what was needed.

[thebigcheese3k]

Originally Posted by sapiendut

You can easily see the difference before and after re-calibration every 1000 hours.

If you’re not planning to re-calibrate every 1000 hours do you think it’s still worth getting it calibrated initially? I’ve always wondered about calibration drift with consumer displays. I remember reading that some professional studios calibrate daily to ensure accuracy.

[sapiendut]

Yes. Even though I’m a professional calibrator, sometimes I can become too lazy to redo my own display so there were displays in my house that are 1000+ hours without recalibration. As for the displays I use for work, I recalibrate every time I start a new project.

[pbz06]

Originally Posted by thebigcheese3k

If you’re not planning to re-calibrate every 1000 hours do you think it’s still worth getting it calibrated initially? I’ve always wondered about calibration drift with consumer displays. I remember reading that some professional studios calibrate daily to ensure accuracy.

Yes unless you veer more towards enthusiast. However, personally I think saying "easily" is a little too exagerated. I verify my own calibration every couple of months and haven't seen any drift beyond basic values within equipment tolerance - at least not yet. I have an i1Pro 3 spectro and an i1Display Pro (RevB) so while not necessarily pro grade, it's good enough. I wouldn't worry that my TV would drift from accurate to errors that are noticeable.

In general, say with Sony, you can leave it on default "Custom" and have confidence that any dE value (using their white point target) would be less than 2 or so. Essentially, accurate in terms of out of the box. A calibration would fine tune it to perfection not just for eye, but measureable.

I'd just feel better gettting calibrated though

[Penton-Man]

Originally Posted by thebigcheese3k

If you’re not planning to re-calibrate every 1000 hours do you think it’s still worth getting it calibrated initially? I’ve always wondered about calibration drift with consumer displays. I remember reading that some professional studios calibrate daily to ensure accuracy.

per that ^ - https://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread...s#post18761138

anyway, from last fall’s survey by - https://icolorist.com/
with using one of these –

Originally Posted by Penton-Man

Assuming the ^ respondents were all or mostly dealing with grading for SDR? at the time, at least I hope so, as opposed to one would think using a professional reference monitor for grading, this most used display (by greater than 35% of the respondents) is still rather surprising esp. since the LG CX’s don’t have SDI inputs.

the results –

[chrisandy007]

Originally Posted by J Nada

Sure - it isn't obvious at all! You need to create a folder on your usb drive called 'sub', rename the srt file to 'sub.srt' and put it in that folder. Then if you play the disc, hit the option button and go to subtitles, there are additional menu options including external subs.

Please note both folder and srt file need to be all lower case - 'sub' not 'Sub'.

Sorry to reply so long after you made this but any ideas what to do if I'm not seeing any options? I can go to the subtitle submenu from my remote but it just says "off" - no option to choose an external one. To be clear, this is while playing a Blu-ray Disc.

[J Nada]

Originally Posted by chrisandy007

Sorry to reply so long after you made this but any ideas what to do if I'm not seeing any options? I can go to the subtitle submenu from my remote but it just says "off" - no option to choose an external one. To be clear, this is while playing a Blu-ray Disc.

Just checking - are you using the regionfreedom firmware? I don't think it works otherwise.

[hansolo]

Originally Posted by chrisandy007

Sorry to reply so long after you made this but any ideas what to do if I'm not seeing any options? I can go to the subtitle submenu from my remote but it just says "off" - no option to choose an external one. To be clear, this is while playing a Blu-ray Disc.

I'm refering to my old post in this thread some 30 pages back.
https://forum.blu-ray.com/showpost.p...postcount=9322

As you can see from the photo I took with external subtitles normal Subtitles setting needs to be "off" and External Subtitles setting below it "on". External subtitles have bluish semi-transparent box behind them, which I do not like at all. I used folder named "sub" and filename was "sub.srt". I think External Subtitles won't show up in settings if things are not correct and of course you need to have firmware, which have this feature enabled.

[IlCorvo]

Originally Posted by whedon

Got the 820 just after Christmas and really like it, a huge upgrade over what I was using. Tried to go down the Region Freedom route but it was one of the most painful back and forths imaginable. They were unable to say what the issue was and got kind of aggressive and abusive when asked exactly what was needed.

What exactly happened? Something wrong with the pictures? Did you get the firmware and the installation via stick is not working? If so, try a different stick.

[whedon]

Originally Posted by IlCorvo

What exactly happened? Something wrong with the pictures? Did you get the firmware and the installation via stick is not working? If so, try a different stick.

I have zero ideas what the issue was, never even got to the point where they asked for payment. I think the issue may be down to uploading both images on the same page and the team not scrolling down to see the second image.

It's a shame as my main reason for it was the ability to add subtitles to films so that we could watch stuff while our newborn slept as we try to keep noise to a minimum as they wake very easily. That and the fact that I have a tonne of RA and RC Blus that I currently watch on a 10 year old US player. Guess I'll have to buy a new RA player.