Panasonic UB820/UB9000 4K UHD Blu-ray player

[bl4ck]

More complaints because more people have ub820

[DRC72]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

Ah, the one who seems to always doubt my statements.

Well, take a seat and learn something:

It took me a bit to figure all of this out but I have finally done it. I have an LG C9, as most on here know. I have a Panny 820 and use the HDR Optimizer set to OLED. On top of that, I use the Dynamic Tone Mapping setting on my C9.

Now, if you leave everything on Default in the HDR Options, the picture is completely blown out because yes, the Dynamic Tone Mapping on the C9 (and most older LG TVs) over brighten things and makes things inaccurate. But making adjustments in the HDR Options Menu can compensate for all of that.

Here are the settings I have come up with:

Dynamic Tone Adjustment: -2
Brightness: -4 (Should be -3.5 but we can get that specific with the player)
Tone Curve (White): +4
Tone Curve (Black) 0
System Gamma 0

I have found these settings will allow you to use Dynamic Tone Mapping on an LG OLED while still being almost as accurate as possible to DV. For awhile, I just adjusted Dynamic Tone Adjust and Brightness but the key was what I adjusted recently, the Tone Curve for White. It seems the DTM on LGs over blow that and setting it to +4 brings that way down. Now it won't be 100% DV because DV acts differently along with it being 12 bit color spacing rather than 10. Nonetheless, this is as close as I have gotten to it.

If you don't believe me, ask Mierzwiak. We had a discussion a few months back and Mierzwiak agreed that it's pretty darn close to what Dolby Vision was showing.

Interesting!!! I have a C9 like yourself. I'll have to experiment with your settings.

[BigStef71]

Thank you for that information. It's a tough dilemma lol. I would go with the 9000 but the price is steep. It's probably worth it though.

[Geoff D]

Originally Posted by Misioon_Odisea

Last I've read is that the UB450 is actually better at Dolby Vision than the UB820 and UB9000, since the UB450 apparently doesn't suffer from the same issues regarding highlights clipping the other two models have:



I guess Geoff D will be able to verify and confirm this in practice to see if it is true, and maybe check for any other video anomalies that may be present on any of the player models.

The 450 is at my GFs so no more direct comparisons, but from what I've seen otherwise it doesn't lack for picture quality otherwise as mentioned in that 'trusted' review. The 820 (and derivative) models have more baked in sharpening than the MediaTek chips used in the OPPO, Sonys and the 450, so that may fool the eye, but it's no more colourful or "dynamic" looking when it comes to colour or HDR, that's bollocks.

Re: DV, haven't been able to check, but it's using an MT chip as said so it should have less clipping.

[Misioon_Odisea]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

The 450 is at my GFs so no more direct comparisons, but from what I've seen otherwise it doesn't lack for picture quality otherwise as mentioned in that 'trusted' review. The 820 (and derivative) models have more baked in sharpening than the MediaTek chips used in the OPPO, Sonys and the 450, so that may fool the eye, but it's no more colourful or "dynamic" looking when it comes to colour or HDR, that's bollocks.

Re: DV, haven't been able to check, but it's using an MT chip as said so it should have less clipping.

I understand, but I thank you for your observations all the same, very appreciated. I was already set on choosing a UB450 for my next player now that it's available for Region A markets, so the reviewer's comments regarding the lack of "punchiness" in the picture were not all that dissuading in the end. On the contrary, your own remarks about the possible presence of baked-in sharpening on the UB820 and UB9000 further solidify my personal preferences for a UB450 as my next player purchase.

My current players are a Sony X700 and a Panasonic UB420, but I have a new TV setup at home, and it wouldn't hurt to provide it with a third player when the opportunity arises.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by Telemachus

Keeping it turned off seems so much simpler tho

Keeping it "On" is simple too! The HDR Options Menu doesn't affect the Optimizer. It is separate. So really, you could keep the Optimizer "On" and have the HDR Options Menu all set to default 0.

[John Earls Umbrella]

Originally Posted by Misioon_Odisea

I understand, but I thank you for your observations all the same, very appreciated. I was already set on choosing a UB450 for my next player now that it's available for Region A markets, so the reviewer's comments regarding the lack of "punchiness" in the picture were not all that dissuading in the end. On the contrary, your own remarks about the possible presence of baked-in sharpening on the UB820 and UB9000 further solidify my personal preferences for a UB450 as my next player purchase.

My current players are a Sony X700 and a Panasonic UB420, but I have a new TV setup at home, and it wouldn't hurt to provide it with a third player when the opportunity arises.

I’m in the market for a new player as well, the 450 does seem to be a good bet price v performance. Incidentally there’s a comment on the Sony 700 thread stating the Panny’s offer average visuals for DVD upscales and SD content on BDs. Might be bollocks but I’ve never owned one so can’t comment.

Despite this the 9000 is still a pull as I want something premium at the higher end. Possibly misguided but I do find picking AV equipment to be more challenging than hi-fi separates.

[DMRI2006]

Originally Posted by John Earls Umbrella

I’m in the market for a new player as well, the 450 does seem to be a good bet price v performance. Incidentally there’s a comment on the Sony 700 thread stating the Panny’s offer average visuals for DVD upscales and SD content on BDs. Might be bollocks but I’ve never owned one so can’t comment.

Despite this the 9000 is still a pull as I want something premium at the higher end. Possibly misguided but I do find picking AV equipment to be more challenging than hi-fi separates.

I'd go with the 450 in all honesty. I haven't tried the 450 myself, but you might want to dial down your expectations on "premium" and "high end" at least as far as build quality goes on the 9000. I went through two 9000's, both of which had drive issues that cropped up after roughly a year of use. They're built like a tank but that drive certainly does not deliver for the price point, especially if you're going to use it consistently. I had owned numerous Oppos over the years and got far more use out of them, with scarcely the amount of issues the 9000 gave me...sadly.

Many of the 4K players have quirks or what not so I wouldn't spend big money on them. If you need something to upscale/play media files, going for a higher end Blu-Ray player (maybe one with less miles on it) may be the smarter play, then grabbing one of the lower-priced Panasonic/Sony machines just for 4K playback (unless you really need the HDR Optimizer in the more expensive Pannys).

[100wasser]

I would like to use a UB820 player with external subtitles (BD and UHD discs), will the RattleByte firmware be suitable for this, as I have read so far, which I am not sure if I need to do the hardware modification? Region-free is not important to me.

[bl4ck]

Check out the Downloads tab, download the "Fitting Instructions.pdf" file and find out.

[HeavyHitter]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

The 450 is at my GFs so no more direct comparisons, but from what I've seen otherwise it doesn't lack for picture quality otherwise as mentioned in that 'trusted' review. The 820 (and derivative) models have more baked in sharpening than the MediaTek chips used in the OPPO, Sonys and the 450, so that may fool the eye, but it's no more colourful or "dynamic" looking when it comes to colour or HDR, that's bollocks.

Re: DV, haven't been able to check, but it's using an MT chip as said so it should have less clipping.

The 820 sharpening baked into UHD? I recall it being so for upscaling 1080p.

I am now more curious to give the 450 a try.

[Geoff D]

Yeah, for non-UHD stuff. Which makes all the waffle about the 'superior' PQ even more baffling.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by DRC72

Interesting!!! I have a C9 like yourself. I'll have to experiment with your settings.

I hope they make your movie viewing experience better on your C9! I know they have for me. Never really have to complain that a movie doesn’t have Dolby Vision either.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

Ah, the one who seems to always doubt my statements.

Well, take a seat and learn something:

It took me a bit to figure all of this out but I have finally done it. I have an LG C9, as most on here know. I have a Panny 820 and use the HDR Optimizer set to OLED. On top of that, I use the Dynamic Tone Mapping setting on my C9.

Now, if you leave everything on Default in the HDR Options, the picture is completely blown out because yes, the Dynamic Tone Mapping on the C9 (and most older LG TVs) over brighten things and makes things inaccurate. But making adjustments in the HDR Options Menu can compensate for all of that.

Here are the settings I have come up with:

Dynamic Tone Adjustment: -2
Brightness: -4 (Should be -3.5 but we can get that specific with the player)
Tone Curve (White): +4
Tone Curve (Black) 0
System Gamma 0

I have found these settings will allow you to use Dynamic Tone Mapping on an LG OLED while still being almost as accurate as possible to DV. For awhile, I just adjusted Dynamic Tone Adjust and Brightness but the key was what I adjusted recently, the Tone Curve for White. It seems the DTM on LGs over blow that and setting it to +4 brings that way down. Now it won't be 100% DV because DV acts differently along with it being 12 bit color spacing rather than 10. Nonetheless, this is as close as I have gotten to it.

If you don't believe me, ask Mierzwiak. We had a discussion a few months back and Mierzwiak agreed that it's pretty darn close to what Dolby Vision was showing.

To add a little more to this:

Brightness can be either -4 or -3 depending on your viewing environment you are watching in or your personal preference since really brightness should be -3.5 but we can't really set it there.

[panasonicst60]

Every panel is different(especially OLED!), even if it's the exact same model/year. Adjusting things without any type of measurement tool is down right silly, silly. Even worst when you're adjusting things without tools and guiding others to do the same adjustments is just the blind leading the blind.

[bl4ck]

It's just a brightness setting, I wouldn't make a big deal out of it

[rickardl]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

Here are the settings I have come up with:

Dynamic Tone Adjustment: -2
Brightness: -4 (Should be -3.5 but we can get that specific with the player)
Tone Curve (White): +4
Tone Curve (Black) 0
System Gamma 0

What test patterns and measurements can I use to verify that these settings does improve things on my LG G3?

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by panasonicst60

Every panel is different(especially OLED!), even if it's the exact same model/year. Adjusting things without any type of measurement tool is down right silly, silly. Even worst when you're adjusting things without tools and guiding others to do the same adjustments is just the blind leading the blind.

And you don’t think I realize all of that? I would love to have calibration tools but:

#1: I don’t have the money for a $300-$500 or more device. I technically do have one (i1 display 2) but I think it doesn’t work anymore due to compatibility issues with new computers and it may have gotten damaged at some point.

#2: The only test patterns disc out there that involves HDR Clipping is the Spears and Muncil UHD Benchmark discs and from the looks of it, they are sold out and are expensive.

So the only method that works is by your eyes sadly. Unless if you have a ton of money to shell out on for tools and such!

I’m not some idiot who gets on here and thinks they know what they are doing. I wouldn’t be saying these settings if I weren’t confident that they work, especially on a calibrated display like mine.

Plus, we are talking settings for HDR through a player here. It’s not like calibration settings within a panel that can be permanent if you aren’t careful. These settings can be simply set back to 0 and you are good!

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by rickardl

What test patterns and measurements can I use to verify that these settings does improve things on my LG G3?

I would imagine the Spears and Muncil UHD Benchmark Disc. I don’t have that sadly but based upon what I see with my C9, the settings I have shared improves the picture quite a bit.

I will say though, the G3 might have different settings than the ones I have shared due to LG’s Dynamic Tone Mapping being improved. Any LG OLED from 2017-2021 has had a flawed Dynamic Tone Mapping setting. I can’t remember if it was the G3 or G4 that has the new and improved Dynamic Tone Mapping setting. It’s not as harsh as what my C9 has.

[dcx4610]

I mentioned a few pages back, I got a new OLED TV (Samsung S90D). I'm still dialing in the settings but I'm a little confused on the HDR Optimizer on the Panny 820. I see literally no difference at all with it turned off or on with the new TV. On my old standard LED TV, I could clearly see a difference but nothing with the OLED.

Is the OLED TV just better at tone mapping where the setting is basically doing nothing at all? I mean I was pixel peeping with it both off and on and see not even a slight difference.

Also. for the Luminance setting. Should I go Medium/High or Super High? I believe my TV tops out at around 1200 which is higher than the Medium/High setting but below the Super High setting.