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#401 | |
Power Member
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Thanks given by: | HeavyHitter (07-13-2019) |
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#402 | |
Senior Member
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#403 |
Blu-ray Baron
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Awesome to know, thanks!
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#404 |
BD Test Disc Author
Mar 2008
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All of our articles from have now been updated.
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Thanks given by: | bga84 (07-16-2019), DanBa (07-15-2019), David M (07-15-2019), dcforsyth (07-17-2019), DJR662 (07-15-2019), HDMan72 (07-16-2019), Keenan (07-15-2019), LordoftheRings (07-18-2019), rickardl (07-17-2019), Wendell R. Breland (07-16-2019) |
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#405 | |
Blu-ray Ninja
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![]() I for one, appreciate the distinction between UHD and 4K. Not sure how many know there is true 4k display devices available. |
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#406 |
Blu-ray Emperor
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People probably know, they just don't care unless they have a personal or professional interest in handling 4096x2160 content because what use is a "true 4K" 17:9 monitor for exclusively playing 16:9 consumer content?
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Thanks given by: | mrtickleuk (09-08-2019) |
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#407 |
Blu-ray Knight
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From the 3rd edition articles:
"Important Note: We do not recommend changing the Contrast controls for HDR mode on any UHD TV, but we do recommend setting Contrast in SDR mode. In HDR mode, the TV inherently is designed to clip high-brightness picture data, with the specific clipping points and range compression varying as the content brightness varies (this process of resetting the curves as the picture changes is called “tone mapping”). A simple Contrast control can’t really change that adequately, with the result that the tone mapping algorithms for HDR only really work at the standard Contrast level. If you move Contrast, the results can look OK on some content and bad on others. For SDR content, however, the Contrast control is properly defined and we recommend adjusting it according to this guide." So the Z9D is the only TV to which this does not apply or other Sony HDR TVs as well then? |
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#408 |
Blu-ray Emperor
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I can't speak for other Sonys, but the way that the HDR works on the ZD9 is to basically ignore metadata, right, and offer up the same tone curve to every source (this preserves APL but can clip highlights past the native level of brightness of the TV, and so the less of a light cannon of a TV you have the more this can become damaging to the highlights).
Because it's not doing a dynamic jig then changing the contrast doesn't majorly change the way that the PQ curve is operating, it's just reducing the luminance on a global level (unlike the Panny Optimiser which flattens out the curve into its own thing). That in itself isn't always desirable, if you do it on something with a very low APL then it will only look darker but as most low APL transfers can be handled "1:1" on the ZD9 then contrast doesn't need to be touched there anyway. And, as I think I've said to you before, some UHD movies have been mastered with such stupidly high peak brightness and APL - particularly early Sony joints - that I'm only too happy to reduce the brightness for personal viewing. Even on that reduced brightness "4000 nit" mode it can still hit brightness peaks of ~1500 nits so in a darkened room it's fine. |
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#410 | |
Active Member
May 2010
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#412 |
Blu-ray Samurai
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Cinema Pro is the closer one to calibrated on the 940.
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Thanks given by: | Gillietalls (07-18-2019) |
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#413 | |
Blu-ray Knight
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Is there a relative simple way of checking by eye how it does its thing regarding HDR, perhaps by using the S&M UHD? Or does one really need calibration tools and software in order to do this? |
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#414 |
Blu-ray Emperor
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By using S&M you can see how much each mode is clipping, and if you know the peak brightness output (from reviews or wherever) then you can set the contrast so that the clipping tops out at where the TV's brightness tops out, e.g. 1000, 1200, 1400 or whatever. This should get you a reasonably accurate PQ curve according to what the TV can do. If you want to see more highlights in certain content than what the native clip of the TV can do then, as we know, you'd need to bump the contrast down further (sacrificing luminance) or use DV or the Panny Optimiser.
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#415 | |
BD Test Disc Author
Mar 2008
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I will have my own AJA analyzer in the near future. |
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#416 |
Blu-ray Samurai
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I had the E (and now the F) Cinema Pro is a tad too warm and Cinema Home is a tad too cool. I used to use the Cinema Home as I watched it in a brighter room. You can almost treat Cinema Pro as dark-room mode and Cinema Home as day mode. HDR is more than good enough on these TVs out of the box.
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Thanks given by: | DJR662 (07-18-2019) |
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#417 | |
Power Member
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Thanks given by: | DJR662 (07-18-2019) |
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#418 |
Blu-ray Knight
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I remember you said that a while ago, when you told me it was wrong to set HDR contrast on my 385ES to the max setting (basically setting the clipping point to its lowest value) in conjunction with using the Panna's Optimizer (I'm running it in SDR2020 now though so contrast is at the same value as SDR709).
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#419 | |
Blu-ray Knight
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"One thing that is noticeable with the Sony X900E is that the tone mapping varies a lot between Cinema Pro, Custom, and Standard modes. We measured Calibrated Pro initially, since it should track the standards like we want it to, but watching Pan I found that Custom did a better job with tone mapping the extremely bright highlights. More detail was present compared to Cinema Pro, while Standard just blew them out. We will have to go back and perform a full set of measurements on Custom to see how it compared to Cinema Pro, but I prefer how it does the tone mapping." https://referencehometheater.com/rev...00e-tv-review/ |
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#420 |
Blu-ray Samurai
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To do a proper calibration, I use the Custom Mode. Standard is unuseable for anything at all and Cinema Pro is good if you don't want to do a full calibration (read: just minor tweaks here and there right out of the box).
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