LG's new OLED TVs

[Deciazulado]

Originally Posted by RockyIII

So you are suggesting contrast level in ISF mode close to that in HDR mode?
Also, with all due respect to rtings.com, Steve of AVForums suggested contrast at 80 in ISF mode...Is he less of an expert than rtings.com?

If you have a light meter (or you're a photographer with a camera and can translate its readings into cd/m2-nits) by the book you should do the combination of OLED Light output and white level Contrast that on BDs/DVDs etc gives you ~100 nits with a video level 235 (100%) rec.709 small window while still letting you see levels 236-255

and then for UHD/HDR viewing the combination that with HDR UHDs gives you the same ~100 nits with a HDR video level 509 (51%) UHD HDR-2084 window

Then you can check on HDR where the video level 657 (68%) small window for 500 nits, video level 690 (71%) window for 707 nits and video level 723 (75%) window for 1000 nits are falling/clipping/tone curve compressing.. (Level 855 (90%) would be 4000 nits and level 940 (100%) would be 10,000 nits).


Wanting all the highlight detail

If you want/need more highlight detail/less clipping/tone compression than what you got you could manage that by lowering the white level ("Contrast") of the signal(lowering the signal light output) in the player.

Example: your display manages 700 nits and the 700 nits window w/o clipping but you want to see 1000 nit highlight detail goddammit, so lower the player output half a F/step. 1000 becomes 700, 100 becomes 70, and so forth, etc, check/adjust calibration for that). If you want your BDs to track your UHDs too, you then make BD 235 / 100 nit into 235 / 70 nit, etc etc also)

IF you watched with 3 light bulbs on, or 3 windows open, close one/turn off one in this example. Voilá half a step more EichDeeAr highlights

[PRO-630HD]

Originally Posted by vinnie97

Not conjecture. Floating blacks is one such anomaly that is made worse when increasing contrast above 80. See this post for more details:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...l#post45788385

I believe Chad B has also remarked about the anomalies that can occur with setting contrast above 80.

That post is not a very compelling argument at all. It sounds like he has something wrong with his display. Floating blacks at 75,77 and 80+. 73,74,76 perfect black? 2.4 gamma BT.1886 (same), floating blacks at 81-83. Perfect blacks at 80 and 85?

Why are his blacks floating? Because he has the brightness control on 53 and is using a gamma of 2.2! Blacks are gonna float when the brightness control is too high. 50 is perfect for 2.2 and 1% above black is clearly visible. I just watched the same scene and their are no floating blacks with my brightness at 53 and a gamma of BT.1886.

[crazyBLUE]

Originally Posted by Deciazulado

If you have a light meter (or you're a photographer with a camera and can translate its readings into cd/m2-nits) by the book you should do the combination of OLED Light output and white level Contrast that on BDs/DVDs etc gives you ~100 nits with a video level 235 (100%) rec.709 small window while still letting you see levels 236-255

and then for UHD/HDR viewing the combination that with HDR UHDs gives you the same ~100 nits with a HDR video level 509 (51%) UHD HDR-2084 window

Then you can check on HDR where the video level 657 (68%) small window for 500 nits, video level 690 (71%) window for 707 nits and video level 723 (75%) window for 1000 nits are falling/clipping/tone curve compressing.. (Level 855 (90%) would be 4000 nits and level 940 (100%) would be 10,000 nits).


Wanting all the highlight detail

If you want/need more highlight detail/less clipping/tone compression than what you got you could manage that by lowering the white level ("Contrast") of the signal(lowering the signal light output) in the player.

Example: your display manages 700 nits and the 700 nits window w/o clipping but you want to see 1000 nit highlight detail goddammit, so lower the player output half a F/step. 1000 becomes 700, 100 becomes 70, and so forth, etc, check/adjust calibration for that). If you want your BDs to track your UHDs too, you then make BD 235 / 100 nit into 235 / 70 nit, etc etc also)

IF you watched with 3 light bulbs on, or 3 windows open, close one/turn off one in this example. Voilá half a step more EichDeeAr highlights

Really goes to show you who knows what they are talking about Deci

[VictoryAtNight]

Originally Posted by Deciazulado

If you have a light meter (or you're a photographer with a camera and can translate its readings into cd/m2-nits) by the book you should do the combination of OLED Light output and white level Contrast that on BDs/DVDs etc gives you ~100 nits with a video level 235 (100%) rec.709 small window while still letting you see levels 236-255

[Show spoiler]and then for UHD/HDR viewing the combination that with HDR UHDs gives you the same ~100 nits with a HDR video level 509 (51%) UHD HDR-2084 window

Then you can check on HDR where the video level 657 (68%) small window for 500 nits, video level 690 (71%) window for 707 nits and video level 723 (75%) window for 1000 nits are falling/clipping/tone curve compressing.. (Level 855 (90%) would be 4000 nits and level 940 (100%) would be 10,000 nits).


Wanting all the highlight detail

If you want/need more highlight detail/less clipping/tone compression than what you got you could manage that by lowering the white level ("Contrast") of the signal(lowering the signal light output) in the player.

Example: your display manages 700 nits and the 700 nits window w/o clipping but you want to see 1000 nit highlight detail goddammit, so lower the player output half a F/step. 1000 becomes 700, 100 becomes 70, and so forth, etc, check/adjust calibration for that). If you want your BDs to track your UHDs too, you then make BD 235 / 100 nit into 235 / 70 nit, etc etc also)

IF you watched with 3 light bulbs on, or 3 windows open, close one/turn off one in this example. Voilá half a step more EichDeeAr highlights

[RockyIII]

Originally Posted by Deciazulado

If you have a light meter (or you're a photographer with a camera and can translate its readings into cd/m2-nits) by the book you should do the combination of OLED Light output and white level Contrast that on BDs/DVDs etc gives you ~100 nits with a video level 235 (100%) rec.709 small window while still letting you see levels 236-255

and then for UHD/HDR viewing the combination that with HDR UHDs gives you the same ~100 nits with a HDR video level 509 (51%) UHD HDR-2084 window

Then you can check on HDR where the video level 657 (68%) small window for 500 nits, video level 690 (71%) window for 707 nits and video level 723 (75%) window for 1000 nits are falling/clipping/tone curve compressing.. (Level 855 (90%) would be 4000 nits and level 940 (100%) would be 10,000 nits).


Wanting all the highlight detail

If you want/need more highlight detail/less clipping/tone compression than what you got you could manage that by lowering the white level ("Contrast") of the signal(lowering the signal light output) in the player.

Example: your display manages 700 nits and the 700 nits window w/o clipping but you want to see 1000 nit highlight detail goddammit, so lower the player output half a F/step. 1000 becomes 700, 100 becomes 70, and so forth, etc, check/adjust calibration for that). If you want your BDs to track your UHDs too, you then make BD 235 / 100 nit into 235 / 70 nit, etc etc also)

IF you watched with 3 light bulbs on, or 3 windows open, close one/turn off one in this example. Voilá half a step more EichDeeAr highlights

That's great. But what if we do not have a light meter nor are we photographers with a camera and can translate its readings? What's the alternative?

[David M]

Originally Posted by RockyIII

So you are suggesting contrast level in ISF mode close to that in HDR mode?
Also, with all due respect to rtings.com, Steve of AVForums suggested contrast at 80 in ISF mode...Is he less of an expert than rtings.com?

There's more than one way to get to the same (or very similar) end result - it doesn't mean that one person is wrong and one person is right.

[RockyIII]

Originally Posted by David M

There's more than one way to get to the same (or very similar) end result - it doesn't mean that one person is wrong and one person is right.

Really? So why doesnt Oled Light 100 and Contrast 55 look as vibrant and clear as Oled Light 50-65 and Contrast 80?

[vinnie97]

Originally Posted by PRO-630HD

That post is not a very compelling argument at all. It sounds like he has something wrong with his display. Floating blacks at 75,77 and 80+. 73,74,76 perfect black? 2.4 gamma BT.1886 (same), floating blacks at 81-83. Perfect blacks at 80 and 85?

Why are his blacks floating? Because he has the brightness control on 53 and is using a gamma of 2.2! Blacks are gonna float when the brightness control is too high. 50 is perfect for 2.2 and 1% above black is clearly visible. I just watched the same scene and their are no floating blacks with my brightness at 53 and a gamma of BT.1886.

Well, his findings are different than yours (it may be in part because he owns a 1080p model), and there is no guarantee that brightness is too high in his particular case since manufacturing tolerances can vary.

I need to find Chad B's review (of the E6) because I believe he goes into detail about higher contrast settings.

[RockyIII]

What I dont get is this:
Some are claiming that Oled Light at 100 and Contrast at 55 is exactly the same as something like Oled Light 50 and Contrast 80...As if the values of Oled Light and Contrast were mutually exchangeable for the same results...I dont get that

[wxman2003]

Originally Posted by vinnie97

Not conjecture. Floating blacks is one such anomaly that is made worse when increasing contrast above 80. See this post for more details:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...l#post45788385

I believe Chad B has also remarked about the anomalies that can occur with setting contrast above 80.

Exactly and it's obvious to see with a 1% slide. Start with contrast at 80, and raise contrast 1 click at a time. Watch the 1% slide get brighter, darker, brighter, etc, the higher you go. Do it in a dark room. So if you set your tv where bar 17 and above flash, raising contrast just 1 click, it could make 0% glow. However, you can use the higher contrast to tweak your brightness setting. So for instance, if you set brightness to where 18 is barely flashing with a contrast of 80, and then raise contrast, 18 will become more visible and you will have more detail in the near blacks. It gets a bit tricky, because a contrast of 83 might make the 1% slide brighter, while a contrast of 84 makes it darker. FWIW, I have the E6. Maybe it does not do it on the B or C models due to a different SoC.

[punisher]

Originally Posted by VictoryAtNight

LOL..somebody should remind them it's just a tv. You turn it on..you watch it..you turn it off.

as George Carlin said in his last show.."it's all bullshit and it's bad for you"

[RockyIII]

Originally Posted by punisher

LOL..somebody should remind them it's just a tv. You turn it on..you watch it..you turn it off.

as George Carlin said in his last show.."it's all bullshit and it's bad for you"

Sometimes I jsut feel like saying "Screw it" and set everything at factory default

[PRO-630HD]

Originally Posted by vinnie97

Well, his findings are different than yours (it may be in part because he owns a 1080p model), and there is no guarantee that brightness is too high in his particular case since manufacturing tolerances can vary.

I need to find Chad B's review (of the E6) because I believe he goes into detail about higher contrast settings.

I read his review and my take was it simply was easier for him to calibrate with OLED light maxed and using lower contrast settings so ABL wouldn't kick in.

[RockyIII]

Originally Posted by PRO-630HD

I read his review and my take was it simply was easier for him to calibrate with OLED light maxed and using lower contrast settings so ABL wouldn't kick in.

I did a side by side comparison and higher Oled Light/Lower Contrast looks dull compared to lower Oled Light/Higher Contrast.

[Go Blue]

Originally Posted by RockyIII

I did a side by side comparison and higher Oled Light/Lower Contrast looks dull compared to lower Oled Light/Higher Contrast.

Which model do you have again? Also, What settings are you using and on what Picture Mode?

[RockyIII]

Originally Posted by Schultzy

Which model do you have again? Also, What settings are you using and on what Picture Mode?

Oled 55C6, I am using ISF Dark Room picture mode.
I tried countless combination, and in the end I alwasy go back to Dark Rooom mode with Oled Light 65 and Contrast 80 for best and more vibrant quality. If the curtaing are open I might just bump Oled Light up some, but no other changes

[Go Blue]

What are the wall mounting options for the 55E6?

[RockyIII]

Not sure if you guys can see what I am seeing in this screenshot, but I was wondering how often you experience similar issues with your picture...

[Deciazulado]

Can't tell anything from a picture that's ZerO.3K in SiZe.

Seems you post questions problems about OLED everyday

[JimShaw]

Originally Posted by RockyIII

Not sure if you guys can see what I am seeing in this screenshot, but I was wondering how often you experience similar issues with your picture...

I have not experienced any problems with mine.

.