|
|
![]() |
||||||||||||||||||||
|
Best Blu-ray Movie Deals
|
Best Blu-ray Movie Deals, See All the Deals » |
Top deals |
New deals
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() $74.99 | ![]() $101.99 4 hrs ago
| ![]() $124.99 15 hrs ago
| ![]() $35.99 1 day ago
| ![]() $134.99 1 hr ago
| ![]() $99.99 | ![]() $24.96 | ![]() $70.00 | ![]() $22.96 | ![]() $29.95 | ![]() $33.49 1 day ago
| ![]() $39.95 15 hrs ago
|
![]() |
#21 |
Moderator
|
![]()
power conditioners, surpressors, and the like.
mostly to keep spikes filtered from your home theater gear. nice on the purchases btw. ohms is 'push' by the way. the lower the ohmage on the speaker, the 'harder' the effor the receiver has to shoot to get you your sound. about the sensitivity, like i said, it takes a reciever MORE increments to produce a speaker with lower sensitivity, than a speaker with a higher one... so if speaker A has 80db, and you turn your reciever up to level 12, you use speaker B that has 100db, youd probably only need the reciever to go up to level 8 to match the same sound the speaker A does. its not a matter of how clean its being produced, its still sound no matter what. cleanliness of the sound is measured in THD (total harmonic distortion) |
![]() |
![]() |
#22 | |
Moderator
|
![]() Quote:
what looks good on paper, doesnt necessarily mean its true. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
#23 | |
Senior Member
Aug 2007
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
#25 | |
Blu-ray Samurai
|
![]() Quote:
The "ohm rating" (which is the measurement of how much resistance a given speaker presents as a load) has got absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with sound quality. There are good high impedence speakers, and crappy low impedence ones. I'll take my 8 ohm Spendor SP1/2s over some crappy 4 ohm speaker any day of the week! It is true that a speaker that has a lower impedence is usually harder to drive than one with a higher one, because it'll require more current to drive it and crappyy amps tend to have crappy PSUs and hence can't supply the required current. Impedence and sensitivity (the db figure the OP refered to) together give an indication of how "hard" a speaker is to drive. A speaker with a low impendence (say, 1 ohm) and low sensitivity (~80 db) would be an absolute ***** to drive. For an example of this type of speaker, look no further than the Apogee Scintilla (RIP)... |
|
![]() |
![]() |
#26 |
Active Member
Nov 2006
|
![]()
Wooooaaaah I'm all spec'd out.
|
![]() |
![]() |
#27 |
Active Member
Nov 2007
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#28 |
Active Member
Nov 2007
|
![]()
When a speaker is given a DB rating, it means that 1 watt of power measured 1 meter from the speaker will drive that speaker to the specified DB rating.
bill |
![]() |
![]() |
#29 | |
Senior Member
Sep 2007
Plumas Lake, CA
|
![]() Quote:
You have an amp that does 400w @ 4 ohms but you can bridge it to give you 800w @ 2 ohms. Your power is increased but your signal quality will go down. If that same amp can handle a 1 ohm load, it will give you even more power but that power is dirty. Which mean that your sound quality will go down. It might be very loud, but it won't have the same sound quality. I would take a 800w @ 4 ohm amp over a 800w@ 2 ohm amp, because your sound will be better. It will cost a lot more to buy a amp that puts out a lot of power at 4 ohms than one that puts out the same power at 2 ohms. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
#30 | |
Senior Member
Sep 2007
Plumas Lake, CA
|
![]()
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/tip.html#thd
I just found this site...and I quouted some info. Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
#32 | |
Blu-ray Champion
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
#33 |
Senior Member
Sep 2007
Plumas Lake, CA
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#34 | |
Senior Member
|
![]() Quote:
OF COURSE this is not always true and there are great 8 Ohm speakers out there but they will GENERALLY not measure up to a 4 Ohm speaker in quality of build and sound quality. GENERALLY. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
#35 | |
Senior Member
|
![]() Quote:
Again, I'm not trying to say that lower is absolutely better, just that it can be a factor that a novice can use as an indicator................GENERALLY. ![]() Last edited by Pilam69; 12-30-2007 at 02:41 AM. Reason: typo |
|
![]() |
![]() |
#36 |
Active Member
|
![]()
Speaker impedance can be described as follows:
Say a speaker system has an impedance of 8 ohms. That is the resistance (or damping effect) encountered by the electrical stream generated by the amplifier through the electronic and physical components of a speaker (crossover electronics and the physical driver within the speaker). As the resistance drops in the system, the flow of electrons through the system will increase. When the resistance approaches zero ohms, the flow of electrons becomes so great that heat build up occurs causing the circuit to fail. That would be a short-circuit. So, at 4 ohms impedance, the current flow would be greater, and the power supplies for some amplifiers will not efficiently handle that... this may be more of a problem during loud volume playback for extended periods of time. Many modern amplifier circuits have built-in safety circuits that will cut the power output when an overheat condition is detected. Bogdan |
![]() |
![]() |
#37 |
Active Member
Dec 2007
|
![]()
Honestly, I would shoot myself if I was an electrical engineer, my major just required 1 circuits class /shudders again
|
![]() |
![]() |
#38 |
Active Member
Dec 2007
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#39 | |
Active Member
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
#40 | |
Active Member
Dec 2007
|
![]() Quote:
Example: If you have 1000watts @ 10% THD, which is what most HTIB run at, you lose a lot of that 1000watts (which is peak, mind you, something else I'll touch on) that is used up by the amp. Take that same 1000watts @ < 0.05% THD, which is what a lot of amps run at, better ones run even lower, you're going to break every window in the house. Which is why they don't run at 1000 watts ![]() I just looked up the Onkyo 805 and it runs at 130watts per channel at 0.05% THD. If you took that same 130watts per channel at 10% THD you would have horrendous sound with crackling and loss. The HTIB also are rated at peak power whereas real receivers are rated at RMS (root meat square). RMS is the wattage at which it's able to consistently do over a stated period of time. Peak power is the max it will do before it blows its self up, in other words, it never makes its peak power. Hope this clears up why HTIB's usually suck (there are decent ones out there) and explains THD and how it's used. |
|
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
||||
thread | Forum | Thread Starter | Replies | Last Post |
ohms questions | Audio Theory and Discussion | Automission | 76 | 04-25-2010 10:46 AM |
Help with my ohms!!! | Receivers | DTS-HD | 9 | 03-19-2009 06:16 AM |
Kef IQ7 8 ohms or 8.5 ohms? | Speakers | SeanMF | 11 | 03-05-2009 03:32 AM |
Help, Ohms and Speakers | Audio Theory and Discussion | minimo | 9 | 12-29-2008 01:19 AM |
Speaker ohms? | Speakers | jblfx | 11 | 12-21-2008 04:34 PM |
|
|