Panasonic UB820/UB9000 4K UHD Blu-ray player

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by pbz06

That's just the difference between clipped and tonemapped. The optimizer brings back lost color. WOLED is poor with hdr color at high luminance, relies on white subpixel so mostly white gets bright in HDR.

The problem is that I don’t remember seeing any red core to Voldemort’s spell. It was never there on the blu-ray and nor is it there when the Optimizer is “off” So for me at least, I don’t think it should have a reddish core. It should be more uniform.

[Geoff D]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

So, I did look more into this today. You are right in the fact that the Super High Luminace Setting (1,500 setting) for the Optimizer does nothing for HP 5 since the highest grade is 1135 nits. However, I did notice a big change in the Optimizer when set to the OLED setting. I used a different scene this time. Note: LG's DTM is "Off" on both pictures.


When the Optimizer was "On" and set to OLED this is what it looked like:




This is when the Optimizer was "Off" and set to OLED:




Clearly, you can see the Optimizer seemingly over exposing the highlights, making them more reddish than blue/white. When it was "Off," the highlights seem to go back to a more blue/white, which seems more natural to the scene. Red doesn't make sense unless if Dumbledore's Spell is there. Again, I didn't see this in the blu-ray though. Everything was more blue/white.

Again, this could be HP and how they did the HDR grade, but I feel as though the Optimizer works better for me set at Super High mode rather than OLED.

It's not that 1000 isn't causing those artefacts, it's how much the 1500 nit setting is actually doing vs the TV's own tone mapping because with a 1135 nit MaxCLL it's not touching it. What does it look like when using the same TV settings, player set to 1500 and you turn the Optimiser on and off? Would love to know.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

It's not that 1000 isn't causing those artefacts, it's how much the 1500 nit setting is actually doing vs the TV's own tone mapping because with a 1135 nit MaxCLL it's not touching it. What does it look like when using the same TV settings, player set to 1500 and you turn the Optimiser on and off? Would love to know.

If I set the player to Super High Luminace (1,500 nits) and turn it on and off, there is no change to the image. It’s very similar to the 2nd picture that showed the Optimizer “Off” when set to 1,000 nits.

[Geoff D]

Thank you sir.

[handoffbarry]

Originally Posted by thebigcheese3k

Shout just responded to my email about the Halloween issues:

“Some customers have noticed a flicker throughout the image on their 4K discs in the HALLOWEEN series.

Customer have had success eliminating the flicker by turning off the HDR10+ SETTING on in their disc players menu and also making sure their firmware in their player is completely up to date.”

I’ve never turned on HDR10+ and firmware update did not help

Ugh... This is the same crap they told me. What would HDR10+ have to do with anything? They clearly have no intention of solving the problem at all.

So basically we're stuck with some of the worst 4K discs for a premium set from a boutique br company. What a load of garbage... Even if it's not their fault you'd think they'd at least run a test with this equipment and try and figure out what the issue is.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

Thank you sir.

No problem! I'm assuming that's what you figured was happening when I had to Optimizer set to Super Luminance Mode/ 1,500 nits??

[idlebrain]

For US guys, Woot has this player for $799.
https://www.woot.com/offers/panasoni...urce=Skimlinks

[88mph]

Need some help with the audio settings on my UB820. What should the Digital Audio Output be set to?

I have my 820 connected to TV via HDMI. TV to soundbar with HDMI.

Soundbar can only decode lossy Dolby Digital and DTS. Should I set to Bitstream or PCM? If I set bitstream does that mean my soundbar will output the lossy format while PCM will have my 820 convert the lossless format to PCM before being sent to soundbar (meaning better quality?)?

What should I set Secondary BD Audio to?

[pbz06]

Originally Posted by 88mph

Need some help with the audio settings on my UB820. What should the Digital Audio Output be set to?

I have my 820 connected to TV via HDMI. TV to soundbar with HDMI.

Soundbar can only decode lossy Dolby Digital and DTS. Should I set to Bitstream or PCM? If I set bitstream does that mean my soundbar will output the lossy format while PCM will have my 820 convert the lossless format to PCM before being sent to soundbar (meaning better quality?)?

What should I set Secondary BD Audio to?

Normally the best settings are setting Digital Audio Output to "Bitstream" and you would need to disable "Secondary Audio".

This way, the UB820 will be sending the audio codec from the disc as is and the AVR (or soundbar in this case) will decode it. If your sounbar doesn't support lossless codecs like Dolby TrueHD or DTS Master Audio, then it will simply pick the lossy regular Dolby Digital etc.

But generally, yes, you can alternatively have the UB820 decode it and send it as "LPCM" but there's no benefit to that and you're almost always better using bitstream.

[PUsokrJosh305]

I have decided after looking at other films, especially HDR graded films in higher nits than 1,500 nits, that I am keeping the settings at Super High Luminance (1,500 nits). I really think my TV does a better job tone mapping content. Some may clip a tad, but I'm not missing too much.

I will say though, the HDR in the Potter films (as discussed in the Potter thread), are interesting HDR grades. I truly think they overcooked some of the HDR, especially in that battle between Voldemort and Dumbledore in HP 5. Curious enough though that the Super High Luminance setting was better to see Harry's Parents as ghosts in HP 4 than the OLED setting.

[hariseldon]

Originally Posted by Glanners

Maybe this one?

Probably was thinking of that one though it tends to be mostly Which Region A discs play/don't play on a Region B Panasonic

I was looking for a post/thread that summarized Region B discs on Panasonic A players.

[AKORIS]

so I got my OLED 77" C1 today and I'm setting it up tomorrow---

question for the usual crowd--

I have my panasonic 820 and my cable box running straight to my receiver and then one HDMI cable going to the TV---

when I hook this up tomorrow-- is there any reason to (or not to) use the ARC HDMI input or will a regular HDMI input do?

I've never really understood the ARC function-- it's always listed as being an input that uses less cables but I already have that with the one connection from my receiver to the TV...

[pbz06]

Originally Posted by AKORIS

so I got my OLED 77" C1 today and I'm setting it up tomorrow---

question for the usual crowd--

I have my panasonic 820 and my cable box running straight to my receiver and then one HDMI cable going to the TV---

when I hook this up tomorrow-- is there any reason to (or not to) use the ARC HDMI input or will a regular HDMI input do?

I've never really understood the ARC function-- it's always listed as being an input that uses less cables but I already have that with the one connection from my receiver to the TV...

You only need ARC if you plan on using the TV internal apps and or if connecting and routing a device THRU the TV and to the receiver.

If you have a receiver, usually better to use that as your hub and video switch anyway. Keep one cable from receiver to TV. You might as well connect to the ARC input for future use just in case..there's no harm

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by handoffbarry

Ugh... This is the same crap they told me. What would HDR10+ have to do with anything? They clearly have no intention of solving the problem at all.

So basically we're stuck with some of the worst 4K discs for a premium set from a boutique br company. What a load of garbage... Even if it's not their fault you'd think they'd at least run a test with this equipment and try and figure out what the issue is.

I’ve been really curious if it’s either just LG OLEDs or all OLEDs creating the flickering. Maybe try changing the HDR Optimizer Settings on your Panny 820. Instead of making it OLED, change it to Super High Luminance to see if that fixes the problem.

[sapiendut]

Honestly I’m surprised with how many people have been using Panasonic UB420/820/9000 for a while and never realize that they never set up their players properly. This is a video I created so hopefully it can help users of Panasonic 420/820/9000 out there.

https://youtu.be/ab2h30eQ4bg

[djpalacios91]

Thanks for taking the time to make that video. I will be taking a look through it later tonight.

As a side note: I recently bought a UB420 specifically for watching non-4K content as I have it connected with a Marseille Cable Cinema Edition to the C9. I do like the color, clarity enhancement it provides to the image along with the upscale from 1080p-->2160p. However, the remote for the 420 and the 820 is exactly the same and pressing play or stop or any of these action buttons for one device will also affect the other device and then the TV starts to switch between inputs.

It's annoying....I have a Sony 4K player that i'm thinking of switching for the 420 just to avert this problem, but is there a way I can keep the 420 without having to deal with the cross-referencing remote and TV input switching?

[djpalacios91]

Originally Posted by AKORIS

when I hook this up tomorrow-- is there any reason to (or not to) use the ARC HDMI input or will a regular HDMI input do?

I've never really understood the ARC function-- it's always listed as being an input that uses less cables but I already have that with the one connection from my receiver to the TV...

the eARC function allows for the passthrough of lossless audio from the TV to the receiver. So, if you have a sound system capable of playing back DTS:X/ATMOS content, you will want the TV connected to the Receiver by way of the eARC HDMI port.

From the linked what-hifi page: "Enhanced Audio Return Channel (also known as eARC) is the next generation of ARC. It’s a feature implemented in the most recent HDMI 2.1 specification.

The main benefit of eARC is a big boost in bandwidth and speed. This allows you to send higher-quality audio from your TV to a soundbar or AV receiver.

There’s scope for eARC to deliver up to 32 channels of audio, including eight-channel, 24bit/192kHz uncompressed data streams at speeds of up to 38Mbps.

This means all those high bitrate formats currently available on Blu-ray discs, 4K Blu-rays and some streaming services – Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD Master Audio and object-based formats such as Dolby Atmos and DTS:X – will all be compatible." https://www.whathifi.com/us/advice/h...u-need-to-know

[tama]

Originally Posted by sapiendut

Honestly I’m surprised with how many people have been using Panasonic UB420/820/9000 for a while and never realize that they never set up their players properly. This is a video I created so hopefully it can help users of Panasonic 420/820/9000 out there.

https://youtu.be/ab2h30eQ4bg

Setting the color mode to 4:4:4 forces the player to send an SDR 709 8 bit signal for HDR UHDs. Leave it on auto or select 4:2:2 for proper 10bit HDR signal.

EDIT: fixed it. Was on my end.

[Misioon_Odisea]

Originally Posted by tama

Setting the color mode to 4:4:4 forces the player to send an SDR 709 8 bit signal for HDR UHDs. Leave it on auto or select 4:2:2 for proper 10bit HDR signal.

I have mine set to YCbCr 4:4:4 and it outputs everything properly with HDR and higher color bit-depth. Maybe you have your player plugged in with a HDMI 1.4 input or cable, or forgot to turn on the input's Full UHD Color capability on your display's settings.

[thebarnman]

Originally Posted by sapiendut

Honestly I’m surprised with how many people have been using Panasonic UB420/820/9000 for a while and never realize that they never set up their players properly. This is a video I created so hopefully it can help users of Panasonic 420/820/9000 out there.

https://youtu.be/ab2h30eQ4bg

Your video is very helpful. I've had my system professionally calibrated along with the 820's setting set up for me.

The only difference is when it was set up, it's was done so it can perform with my Pioneer PRO-151FD plasma Kuro (just HD.)

I do know when I do eventually upgrade to the Sony 83" A90J that the settings will need to be changed. I think your video will help tremendously.

Thanks for the pointers!