I'm currently using my Panasonic UB9000 with a non-4k Pioneer KURO KRP-600A plasma TV.
I'm currently using the UB9000 in SDR mode...
Is it worth me using HDR and the HDR Optimizer (considering the KURO is not 4k)?
Is so... what setting(s) would you suggest I use?
Thank you!
When connected to a non-HDR display, the player will automatically convert HDR to SDR. The player will display "Dynamic Range Conversion." This conversion system cannot be disabled as SDR displays cannot display HDR video, so it must be converted to SDR.
Hey guys, I just ordered an 820 from Amazon, excited for it to arrive! I was banking on my PS5 being a decent 4K player but it just isn't cutting the mustard.
Anyway, one feature I'm excited for on this is the top menu trick for region B blurays I have.
I'm going to post discs here or in the respective threads that work with the trick, but for now, does anyone know if the top menu trick works with the UK release of 'Journey to the Center of the Earth 3D'? Similarly, does the trick work with Ratatouille 3D?
Not sure about journey 3d but i could never get Ratatouille 3D to work with the top menu trick. I have another region free oppo for those.
Back in September 29, 2018 I started a thread on the Panasonic 9000 hi-end 4K HDR Blu-ray player (another website). Coris I met on that site. He mods quality players to make them even better. Here's what he posted on February 3, 2021 ...
Quote: "I would like to point out on an aspect (important issue) of the firmware of the UB9000, which it seems known to Panasonic, but for unexplainable reasons, they (still) ignore to fix it.
At questions about why this issue of this player model, their answer is “we do not know the cause of such” … Very strange answer from a manufacturer of a consumer devices sold to worldwide consumers/users.
Even more strange, Panasonic are not preoccupied to analyse their own software, trying to find out the cause of the reported issue, solving it, and updating in consequence the (more than an whole year old now) firmware of UB9000.
Well, what is this all about? In some (not yet clear) circumstances, while streaming from Youtube (I do not know yet if this issue it appears in streaming from other providers), the device just it freezes up. An event on network transfers it impact quite bad the whole device. The monitor gets dark (no video signal present), no any response from machine, nor from the buttons on front panels or from remote. Not possible to turn it off in any way, but only taking out the power cord.
It seems that the software/internal app, responsible for managing the network interface, it cannot respond or take a decision when the event it occur, and this it confuses the whole system. The device does not know what to do further. This is the apparence of the issue, seen from the user side.
I have tried to find some factual correlations when such issue it occurs. In my opinion it seems this issue in connection with a bad/poor software management of internal memory. The system it come to a point when it not has enough memory available to process any further. Or whatever… It could be many causes of such serious (never corrected) firmware bug.
Another software design problem of UB9000, in close connection with the above-mentioned issue, is the lack of possibility to proceed to a system reset (except taking out the power). This device it does not any general reset, but only at power up sequence, which it happens only when the device is connected to wall outlet. Then and always, the device it remains in standby like mode (similar to hibernation status for an PC), until it come the power on command from button or remote.
In this way, the device is not well/full “cleaned” up never, by a general reset, keeping one or another information in memory, registry, or wherever. The hardware in this device it seems it never get a full fresh/clean start up, except only when it loses the main power…
Where from my reasoning in this direction? When the issue occurred on my device, I taken out the network cable. After a while it was possible to turn it off (in standby). I start it up again, and I have tried accessing the network service. The device could not start up its network application, but only half way, and freeze it up again. For sure, it remembered the previous event, was still waiting something which never come (a response?), or it had not enough memory available to process further its network app. Or whatever… For sure, not any hardware reset occurred when cycled the standby on/off from front panel button. If the power is completely removed, then all it starts very well, as nothing it happened before (also the normal boot and power on sequence is running, starting with a general reset).
This device it not boots up, when the user it presses the power on button or from remote, but it only boots up when connected to outlet main power. In all the rest of the time when is “powered off” it goes in fact in a standby state. The bad quality software/firmware it is not able to fully clean memory and registry (as a hardware reset it does), and when waking up (“power on”), some parts of the system it still stores unnecessary or wrong informations, or the system memory is not properly cleaned up. They chose this like standby state, instead of power cut, because it speeds up the device start up when the user it press the power on button (or from remote). However, this so called power on function it still taking so unbearable long time...
Well, I have experienced network issues of the same sort (freezing up) at Oppo too, while streaming over network. Not on Youtube (there it is not working anymore that application), but on whatever streaming using the network interface in some particular (not very clear) circumstances. Only the whole behaviour is not so dramatic for Oppo players, as it is for UB9000. Because the Oppo devices it boots up in fact at power on (if set it accordingly in Menu), and then the power on sequence it begins always with a general hardware reset. This it makes the device “to forget” the whole previous bad things, starting up fresh and well. Long press function on power on button, if the device it freezes (Oppo software designers were clever to presume such freezing events occurrences), it makes possible a real power off (processor full power cut).
Oppo players it shows lot of problems, if the power off settings is set to something else than “Power Efficient” one.
This software issue is even more inconvenient (above to be highly annoying), when the UB9000 is equipped with an LPS. When the user gets an unresponsive device, while using it, the first gesture (instinct) is to take out its power completely (unplugging it from outlet). The second gesture it may come after a while as well… by selling the UB9000… But then, what buying else?
If for an SMPS, unplugging the device from main power it can be tolerated well enough, then for an LPS with large filtering capacities and long time to lose the accumulated power, it may be a challenge, such a cycling on/off main power. The analogue regulators inside an LPS it can be messed up by main power quick and repeated power on/off cycles. This is not good at all!
For those users heaving an LPS inside the UB9000, I would like to warn about this aspect. One should wait at least half a minute, before plugging in back again to wall outlet, after a such freezing event.
Another alternative to unplug the power cord, is to unplug first the network cable, then waiting for the device to respond at power off button (or remote).
This issue it occur while using the network interface. Else, the device it works as it should for the rest of its functions (as I have experienced so far...).
I am thinking at a kind of hardware reset function/solution for UB9000, while using the LPS, but best of all it should be that Panasonic itself should have finally enough respect for those who are buying their products, fixing the bugs in their products software, as caring more for updating the devices firmware, for their customers’ convenience…"
"A switching power supply (widely used today in mostly of the consumer products), it is very energetically efficient, and quite cheap to produce it, but it generate a large spectre high frequency noises over the delivered DC lines/voltages. These noises are quite difficult to be filtered out further, and it have negative impact over device performances.
A linear power supply is natively noise less for high frequency ranges. A digital system functioning is by definition (or natively) very noisy (electrical noise of large spectre and high frequencies). An switching power supply it increase the overall noise level, and then particularly measures have to be taken to filter out that noises. Providing power (DC lines) from a linear power supply, to a digital system, it lower dramatically the overall noise level in that system. This it have positive impact over the device outputted signals (audio, and especially video)."
Personally, I find LG's dynamic tonemapping atrocious and an affront to HDR in general. They shift everything down in brightness in an attempt to preserve highlight contrast. The result, to me, is extremely "cramped" and low contrast midtones and shadow tones. I highly recommend turning off LG dynamic tonemapping and setting HDR Optimizer on the Panasonic UHD player. Other brands, like Sony, don't reduce APL as much in their television's dynamic tonemapping so the Panasonic HDR Optimizer has less of an effect. Sony tries to clip/blend the highlights directly rather than shift the whole tone curve down like LG does. Check out the HDTV test review on the HDR Optimizer feature; he tests it on an LG television and you'll see what I mean.
Which LG OLED do you have? I have the C9 and I actually prefer having Dynamic Tone Mapping "On" with the Panasonic Optimizer "On" as well. I have discovered that the LG C9 and I'm sure the CX do a great job in general at tone mapping so I have the Optimizer set to Super High Luminance (1,500 nits). Basically, the TV tone maps up to 1,500 nit content while the player will tone map the rest if the HDR Content is graded higher than 1,500 nits.
Now the reason I also have Dynamic Tone Mapping "On" is that I feel like without it, movies seem very lifeless. They don't have that "pop" that should be with a 4K UHD movie. With Dynamic Tone Mapping "On", scenes look exactly how I feel they should. Essentially, Dynamic Tone Mapping is LG's Version of Dolby Vision for HDR 10 content. It changes (lowers and heightens) the contrast settings for each scene, very similar to Dolby Vision. It doesn't always darken the image, as you may have said. Is it perfect? No but, it does a great job taking HDR 10 Content and making them almost close to what a Dolby Vision version of a film looks like.
Again, this is just for the C9 and I'm sure the CX. The C8 and lower may not have the best Dynamic Tone Mapping, which then you would want the Panasonic 820 doing it all. But to me, Dynamic Tone Mapping seems to make movies look like they should.
I also should note that I have a calibrated TV, so that may change things compared to an uncalibrate TV set.
I have an LG C8. I’m finally going to open this player tonight. What’s the consensus with using the HDR Optimizer and the TVs dynamic tone mapping? I’ve read conflicting views. Some say to use both others say the Pannys and dynamic off or the pannys isn’t worth it and use the TVs. Thanks for the insight
The model of your display sounds like the internal designation for the latest generation of the Chevrolet Corvette.
Well, company "G" owns an electronics division (division "A") that makes entertainment systems for their many vehicles and as these systems could be viewed as competitors to Panasonic, you must not name company "G", or any of its divisions, by their full names in this thread lest you offend Panasonic.
It concerns a few Lionsgate titles, Midway & Knives Out both of their Dolby Vision layers exhibit a lot of freezing & playback corruption & the Anime title Ghost in the Shell 1995 results in intermittent flickering throughout the feature, sure you can simply watch them in HDR10 with no such issues but it's the principle of the matter.
It concerns a few Lionsgate titles, Midway & Knives Out both of their Dolby Vision layers exhibit a lot of freezing & playback corruption & the Anime title Ghost in the Shell 1995 results in intermittent flickering throughout the feature, sure you can simply watch them in HDR10 with no such issues but it's the principle of the matter.
Or you can watch it in DV on other players with no issues, including an old oppo with 2-3 year old firmware
It concerns a few Lionsgate titles, Midway & Knives Out both of their Dolby Vision layers exhibit a lot of freezing & playback corruption & the Anime title Ghost in the Shell 1995 results in intermittent flickering throughout the feature, sure you can simply watch them in HDR10 with no such issues but it's the principle of the matter.
Is there a setting that I can turn off that will keep the player from shutting down after several minutes of being paused? It's a hassle to have to turn the player back on and then have to find the scene where you left off.
Is there a setting that I can turn off that will keep the player from shutting down after several minutes of being paused? It's a hassle to have to turn the player back on and then have to find the scene where you left off.
I am still working with the engineers in Japan and hope to have an answer by early - mid January.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Zohn
Version 1.66 is not for the USA and does not address any of the issues we want.
Hi Robert, any update from Japan's engineers as to if or when Panasonic will address this DV issue or in fact acknowledge that it is a problem but can't address it due to a chipset limitation with their HCX processor?
I wonder if the UB450 is also afflicted by this issue as it was reported that it may be utilising a MediaTek chipset solution as it apparently does not suffer from the "DV flickering" issue with the Ghost in the Shell 1995 4K Lionsgate release.
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