Epson 6100/TW3000 Calibration.

[Suntory_Times]

I recently have purchased a Epson TW3000 (which is more or less the same projector as the Epson 6100) and am quite impressed with it thus far running blu ray and dvd from my laptop via hdmi and hddvd from my xbox 360 via hdmi (black bars aren't an issue as i'm running a cinemascope set-up so the only time there are any black bars from the projector is when i'm watching 4:3 content).

I have giving it a basic calibration, however there is clearly a large room for improvement as out of the box whilst the colours are extremely vibrant there probably to much so and the image is far to bright (there's entire menus for instance where you can change hue, saturation etc of the seperate three main colors) and was wondering if anyone had any links to advanced calibration set-ups for this projector. Any help, hints would be appreciated as this will be the first commercial projector I have calibrated in years (i've calibrated many DIY projectors I built in the past but commercial projectors are a entirely different beast).

[Trogdor2010]

Try this, it gives you calibration info for both the Best mode and for the dynamic modes if you want it bright.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php

[Suntory_Times]

Originally Posted by Trogdor2010

Try this, it gives you calibration info for both the Best mode and for the dynamic modes if you want it bright.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php

I'm trying to get it darker as its almost blindingly light in its in box settings which is great for some animation and cartoony gaming (eg: street fighter 4) but to me looks washed out for live action (but this does look like a good starting point the RGB info may be particularly usefull). Thanks for the link.


{Edit}
I've done the set-up from the site (the theatre 2 option) and aside from the brightness and contrast levels (brightness I use is -12, contrast around -4, and gamma on 2.3) it is very nice indeed though there is some room for improvement, though not much given the projectors capabilities (though i'll deffinatly start tweaking it more once exams are over in around two weeks time [and find my blu calibration disc which has managed to somehow vanish, which is probably a good thing for the time bieng]).


Is it just me, or can anyone actually notice when the lense is in use, as I cant tell (I know when it should work, but it doesn't seem to be doing anything). Is it just that the change it causes is extremely small.

[Trogdor2010]

Originally Posted by Suntory_Times

I'm trying to get it darker as its almost blindingly light in its in box settings which is great for some animation and cartoony gaming (eg: street fighter 4) but to me looks washed out for live action (but this does look like a good starting point the RGB info may be particularly usefull). Thanks for the link.


{Edit}
I've done the set-up from the site (the theatre 2 option) and aside from the brightness and contrast levels (brightness I use is -12, contrast around -4, and gamma on 2.3) it is very nice indeed though there is some room for improvement, though not much given the projectors capabilities (though i'll deffinatly start tweaking it more once exams are over in around two weeks time [and find my blu calibration disc which has managed to somehow vanish, which is probably a good thing for the time bieng]).


Is it just me, or can anyone actually notice when the lense is in use, as I cant tell (I know when it should work, but it doesn't seem to be doing anything). Is it just that the change it causes is extremely small.

I'm afraid there is a defocusing problem found in earlier models caused by heat, it happens about 30 to 45 minutes of use. The problem is found even in newer models, but it was not noticeable in most content and subtle with blu ray HD DVD content, it was far worse in eariler models however. A way to resovle it in long sessions (like a movie), is to warm up the projector for about 30 to 45 minutes and when it slightly defocuses, adjust the lense to be in focus. It will be slightly out of focus when you start it back up when it cools down if you leave it, so you can let it warm up for the time, or adjust the lense in the first 30 to 45 minutes then readjust it after it defocuses.

Anyways, glad you are enjoying your projector, a calibration disc (Like Digital video essentials HD Basics) does help. Some of the problems can be resolve, but some only by Service menus (like ISF), but lets not get carried away. I'm glad you like the projector though. I wish I had a 1080p projector.

[Suntory_Times]

Originally Posted by Trogdor2010

I'm afraid there is a defocusing problem found in earlier models caused by heat, it happens about 30 to 45 minutes of use. The problem is found even in newer models, but it was not noticeable in most content and subtle with blu ray HD DVD content,

Anyways, glad you are enjoying your projector, a calibration disc (Like Digital video essentials HD Basics) does help. Some of the problems can be resolve, but some only by Service menus (like ISF), but lets not get carried away. I'm glad you like the projector though. I wish I had a 1080p projector.

Cheers, i'm enjoying it quite a bit (and once I get time and build a scope screen [2:35:1] with black 'curtains to bring in for 16:9 and 4:3 content I think i'll enjoy it even more). I'm sure you enjoy your 56 inch 1080p DLP TV as well. I've yet to have any focusing problems (or maybe my eyes aren't up to scratch, but either way it hasn't been a problem for me yet). I watched Transformers and a few episodes of dilbert last night (one after the other) and it was still entirely in focus (at least as far as my eyes could tell, or maybe i've just been lucky and got a unit without a problem).

Problems I have had so far is that for some material I am getting a small green line (it looks to be one pixel at the bottom of the screen, which is never there for dvd content though which leads me to believe it is the set-up), though it no doubt is easily fixed and something to do with how I have set it up. The other problem is my bulb timer isn't counting the hours the projector has been used.

I've seen many ISF calibrations and whilst they do look fantastic I personally cant justify the cost untill I get a better projector that is in a more permanant position (i'll be moving in two months, and moved in January this year, and July last year etc...). So ISF for me is out of the equation at the moment. (+ I do like fiddling with the calibration myself when I have the time, I do have a HD basics blu ray calibration disc somewhere, god only knows where though).

[Trogdor2010]

Originally Posted by Suntory_Times

Cheers, i'm enjoying it quite a bit (and once I get time and build a scope screen [2:35:1] with black 'curtains to bring in for 16:9 and 4:3 content I think i'll enjoy it even more). I'm sure you enjoy your 56 inch 1080p DLP TV as well. I've yet to have any focusing problems (or maybe my eyes aren't up to scratch, but either way it hasn't been a problem for me yet). I watched Transformers and a few episodes of dilbert last night (one after the other) and it was still entirely in focus (at least as far as my eyes could tell, or maybe i've just been lucky and got a unit without a problem).

Problems I have had so far is that for some material I am getting a small green line (it looks to be one pixel at the bottom of the screen, which is never there for dvd content though which leads me to believe it is the set-up), though it no doubt is easily fixed and something to do with how I have set it up. The other problem is my bulb timer isn't counting the hours the projector has been used.

I've seen many ISF calibrations and whilst they do look fantastic I personally cant justify the cost untill I get a better projector that is in a more permanant position (i'll be moving in two months, and moved in January this year, and July last year etc...). So ISF for me is out of the equation at the moment. (+ I do like fiddling with the calibration myself when I have the time, I do have a HD basics blu ray calibration disc somewhere, god only knows where though).

Thanks, I do like my TV's performance (especially in color accuracy), but I want to get a projector that is atleast comparable to the performance to my Samsung 1080p DLP and can be bright enough on a 165 inch (16:9) projection screen, and is a DLP or LCoS. The green line may be a bug with the LCD chip producing the bottom pixel (the red and blue may not be working properly with the pixel matrix), it is minor though, and may be resovled with lens shift. The lack of a bulb timer is a scary thing not to have, especially if you use the projector for many hours, good thing the bulbs on Epson Projectors are cheap. Many sets as long as the manufacturer allow the consumer menu to access cabiration settings to allow a D6500 from 0 to 100IRE color temperature or close to it, accurate colors, and a stable contrast, will make the idea of hiring a calibrator less necessary, but without test patterns, it will make it more difficult. Many reviewers settings were made on the set up of their Home theater, and may vary on settings, screen surface and size, and where you set the projector, I should of mentioned that before, but the settings are for likely reference to set it up, so use those settings, then use the test patterns to compare if it IS the right setting, you be the judge, but an experince videophile (like yourself that is, or someone like Joe Kane) may help for it's accuracy. I would love to have one of his projectors.

[Suntory_Times]

^ Indeed about the calibration, but it is a much nicer image and will do untill I have the time to do a 'proper' calibration. Thankyou once again, although I think i'll take the projector back and have it replaced to fix both the bulb timer issue, the green line, and the red lcd seems to not have contant brightness (the red is slightly visible on the bottom left corener when screen is completely black). Hopefully the swap will go nice and smoothly (i'm also going to upgrade from my lego CIH lense, to a proper case [though there is something awesome about having a lego anamorphic lense]).

[Trogdor2010]

Originally Posted by Suntory_Times

^ Indeed about the calibration, but it is a much nicer image and will do untill I have the time to do a 'proper' calibration. Thankyou once again, although I think i'll take the projector back and have it replaced to fix both the bulb timer issue, the green line, and the red lcd seems to not have contant brightness (the red is slightly visible on the bottom left corener when screen is completely black). Hopefully the swap will go nice and smoothly (i'm also going to upgrade from my lego CIH lense, to a proper case [though there is something awesome about having a lego anamorphic lense]).

Hope it goes out well. Don't worry I'm having problems with my projector too (1080i signal scans only the actual pixels then scans only half the image, 720p light output is way too dark, loosing shadow detail and color banding,making me increase the brightness to 100 and decrease the contrast to 23 to get an acceptable image. Interestingly the 1080p output works fine, but I can't get 1080p video from blu ray discs with component, making it a problem when using blu rays and some PS3 games.) but the warranty expired, but I'm enjoying using my projector otherwise, and hope your problems are fixed.

[Suntory_Times]

Originally Posted by Trogdor2010

Hope it goes out well. Don't worry I'm having problems with my projector too (1080i signal scans only the actual pixels then scans only half the image, 720p light output is way too dark, loosing shadow detail and color banding,making me increase the brightness to 100 and decrease the contrast to 23 to get an acceptable image. Interestingly the 1080p output works fine, but I can't get 1080p video from blu ray discs with component, making it a problem when using blu rays and some PS3 games.) but the warranty expired, but I'm enjoying using my projector otherwise, and hope your problems are fixed.

Are you using LCD by any chance (as LCD can never produce and interlaced signal), which may be the cause of the problem. I'll be taking the projector to be replaced this friday (as I have exams throughout this week but am free friday afternoon).

[Trogdor2010]

Originally Posted by Suntory_Times

Are you using LCD by any chance (as LCD can never produce and interlaced signal), which may be the cause of the problem. I'll be taking the projector to be replaced this friday (as I have exams throughout this week but am free friday afternoon).

I am using a DLP projector (Infocus X3), I'm not a fan of LCD technology (due to heating that can cause the LCDs to emit red tints on white and you need an iris to achieve better contrast. It's a hardware problem, but I had it since 2005, but can produce a decent picture, just not as good as my Samsung TV, and the TV has 4 times the resolution (Infocus X3 XGA (1024*768), Samsung HL-T5676S 1080p (1920*1080). I'll save up for a 1080p projector then.