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#2 |
Special Member
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Here's a little explanation I gave a few weeks ago: That's called bi-amping, and the idea of this is to send two different signals to dynamic speakers: hi- and low-frequency. Think of it as an attempt to be like component video inputs (where the color is split) vs. composite inputs. There are probably people on here who have more in-depth knowledge on this subject than I, but I tried it with one speaker bi-amped and another regularly wired and I could not perceive a difference. I have read up on this, just online, and numerous sources indicate that double-blind testing showed no difference.
Also, here is the thread where I made that post, as it gets discussed more: https://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread...ghlight=bi-amp |
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#3 | |
Member
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![]() Quote:
One real world example would be, if you have large biampable front towers with good bass extension to lower freqs....they could be biamped, essentially creating two subs...& you could possibly ditch the standalone sub if you have one. I have fronts that are reasonably flat in freq response down to 25hz & they are biampable....i was thinking of going this route myself & dropping the standalone sub...in my case my sub has the same bass driver as my towers. Last edited by rigpig; 02-01-2008 at 06:28 PM. |
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#4 |
Active Member
Jul 2007
Central NH
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A woofer needs more power for a moment when it reproduces a loud sound. During this moment, some have speculated that the other speakers would be deprived of the signal needed for good sound. the theory is interesting but it also assumes you do not want to use the internal crossovers that came with your speaker. As the crossover is already directing the signal to the speaker(s) that can reproduce it best it really doesn't work like that. In the older tube amps, this may have been more workable due to the longer response time compared to transistors.
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#5 |
Super Moderator
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this thread gives me an idea...
does anyone feel like writing a little tutorial on speaker wire/configuration?? so I could make it a "sticky" in the home theater section? you know, info on what kinds of speaker wire, connections,connectors, speaker types (sub,mid,tweets)...etc. Including pics and all...I think a good speaker tutorial could help others...PM me if you think you would like to get one going? appreciate it...sorry to hijack the thread... but I think its been answered pretty well. ![]() |
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#6 | |
Moderator
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Biwire as commonly made is of no benefit. Better make like this: http://www.naqref.com/ekk.html Solid core cable. Can be bought very cheap. Not very flexible though. For lowest inductance keep connect wires like described in: http://www.jenving.se/pro.htm If you have a jumper at the loudspeaker terminal (double-binding posts), keep it. Some people wire the woofer with thick wires and the tweeter with thin wires in hopes to enhance the upper and lower ranges. However, sometimes that messes up the midrange, which is probably the biggest separating factor between the cheap 50 dollar speakers and the decent 300 dollar ones. So be careful. You dont want to mess up your midrange. Most instuments and the human voice all reside in the midrange. Without good midrange, you might not get the most out of your gear. Besides, some hi-end speakers such as sonus faber do not offer biwire capabilies. So it may not be the best idea. Dont forget the extra cost of wiring. As far as "how" to wire, the manual is your Friend!!!!! This is what my wife wants to get me, but she just doesn't know it yet! http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/displa...rid=2003&sc=ht ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#7 | |
Moderator
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Just a thought. |
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