Quote:
Originally Posted by DViper2399
For Reference here are the setting options my TV has & set model is in my signature:
Contrast
Brightness
Color
Tint
Sharpness
Color Temp--Under Custom settings R-WP, G-WP, B-WP, R-BL, G-BL
Perfect Pixel HD
Dynamic Contrast
Noise Reduction
MPEG Artifact reduction
Color Enhancement
Active Control
Light sensor
Picture Format
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R-WP should be Red white point (or level)
G-WP should be Green white point (or level)
B-WP should be Blue white point (or level)
R-BL should be Red black level (or point
)
G-BL should be Green black level (or point)
B-BL should be Blue black level (or point)
Those shouldn't be used primarily to set hue (tint) and chroma (saturation color), they are to adjust the overall color temperature (the grey scale, or tint of grey and neutrals) (all the shades of blacks, greys, whites etc)
So hoping you can reset those to default, or didn't touch them yet, what Color Temperature settings normally do is adjust for blueness (coldness) vs yellow/redness (warmth) in the picture, which you can specially see in black and white or greyscale images, and the controls are there to affect the overall tint of the pic, not the individual colors. Having tri-color adjustmen capabilityt means you can add/remove tinting in the green/magenta axis too, in fact you could tint the pic any color of the rainbow but that's not what they're there for, they are to make sure the neutral color and tones are truly grey and not off-color by letting you remove any pale tint of any color in any part (shadows, midtones and highlights) That's advanced calibration, usually done with instruments but if you really know what you're doing (like a photographer color balancing an enlargement) you could get it grey by comparing to a truly grey reference point. On colorimetry this grey reference has been chosen and specified as D65 (color temperature of 6500ºKelvin) also know as average Daylight. Other common color temperature examples: a 150 watt tungsten light bulb is near 3000ºK (yellow and warm looking), a candle is near 2000ºKelvin (yellow/orange) (warmer looking still), while a pure blue skylight (no sunlight) is about 10,000ºK (bluer and "cooler" looking) or higher.
To have an idea of D65, look at a totally overcast sky light during the day, which is a handy reference when you have no other reference. If your TV, when showing a true b/w picture, seems to have a bluish or reddish tint (or other off-colors) when the sky is overcast maybe chosing anorther overall color temp setting might bring it closer to grey.
What does that have to do with setting color and hue with the blue filter? Almost absolutely nothing! -Darth Helmet
Well it affects it indirectly, so theorethically before you adjust color and hue you should have your greyscale black and white images looking neutral D65 grey.
So again, in your case, if you can return those RGB white and RGB black points to default, and B/W movies (like maybe Good Night, And Good Luck or Jailhouse Rock) look grey, that's good and we can go to setting color and hue. If they don't look grey, goodnight, and good luck.
j/k but you'll probably will have to recalibrate them to neutral grey or find someone who knows how to get utmost accuracy.
Anyway assuming b/w looks correct neutral grey (or close to it), you should set up the color bars and look through the filters, and get the normal color bars while looking through the blue filter to be alternating blue/black/blue/black/blue/black/blue by setting the color intensity (chroma/saturation) and hue (tint/phase) controls.
Like this:
Checking then through the red filter normal color bars should look red, red, black, black, red, red, black
Checking then through the green filter normal color bars should look green, green, green, green, black, black, black.
If they don't, and black and white movies look neutral grey, then there might be a color decoding error. For example you mention the greens are off, well bright greens might mean you get astro-turf greens, instead of natural vegetation greens, bright reds might mean you have red push and people will look closer to cheetos when colors are adjusted with the blue filter, etc. In the last case, you would turn down color saturation a little so you get people looking normal.
As I see you have controls like Color Enhancement and others, I would turn all of them off before calibrating.
If the color decoder is not decoding to the standard, maybe an advanced or secret service setting or adjustment might exist to correct this but usually professional calibrators are the ones that go into those depths.
On the other hand, maybe the green filter is not strong enough as I remember I've had to stack a couple on top of each other on ocassion to get the red/magenta/blue bars to go truly black
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Help using DVE Blu-ray disc?
Never mind. I had accidently hit a setting on my receiver so it wasn't taking the 5.1 audio and defaulted to TrueHD. I noticed it when I tried to play a DVD for my kids - funny thing - it didn't have any sounds either.....
Linear Mode
