Projector Screen Recommendations?

[Dack]

I think I've decided on the Panasonic PT-AE7000u as my projector, but was curious if anyone had any screens they'd recommend?

I'd like to do an Electric one (unless there's any reservations about them) and I think I've decided on going 16:9 (unless anyone can convince me otherwise).

As size is not a problem for me, I was also wondering if there's a certain size you shouldn't go over in fear of degrading the picture quality?

[Almadacr]

Size will be a problem if your maximum trow distance is for example 12ft , you should't go with a 150" screen .

You have several brands from Da-lite , Elite screens etc .

But you should start with the Calculator pro at projector central to know what is the best trowing measure for your specific room .

[victorvondoom88]

The 7000 does have a lens memory feature that would allow you to go with a cinemascope screen (2.35:1 or 2.40:1).

I have found that more of the movies & even TV shows I watch are 2.35:1-2.40:1 than 1.78:1 (16:9)-1.85:1 so I went with a 120" 2.35:1 screen. With my previous projector I had 100" 16:9 screen. With the set up I have now I have roughly 96-97" 16:9 image and a 120" 2.35:1 image.

So when I watch 16:9 material I have what looks like black bars on the sides but in reality there actually nothing being projected there. I'm going to make some kind of masking system at some point.

When I watch scope movies I use the entire screen no bars. Some that have seen my set up first hand find that not using the entire screen in 16:9 mode is odd until I put in a scope blu-ray and fill the whole screen up. Then its like

You can check out my gallery for some pictures there are 3 folders, screen shots, old set up(16:9 screen) & home theater. You can compare the screens as they are both mounted in the same place/same room.
I went with a Carada so its a fixed frame screen and there aren't many electric scope screens. There are a few though.

In the end you have to decide whats right for you. In my situation I couldn't go much bigger than 100" with a 16:9 format because I would've had to keep moving my center channel lower. Going scope allowed me to get a lot bigger picture for most of my blu-ray watching the trade off being a slightly (~3") smaller 16:9 image.

[Dack]

Originally Posted by victorvondoom88

The 7000 does have a lens memory feature that would allow you to go with a cinemascope screen (2.35:1 or 2.40:1).

I have found that more of the movies & even TV shows I watch are 2.35:1-2.40:1 than 1.78:1 (16:9)-1.85:1 so I went with a 120" 2.35:1 screen. With my previous projector I had 100" 16:9 screen. With the set up I have now I have roughly 96-97" 16:9 image and a 120" 2.35:1 image.

So when I watch 16:9 material I have what looks like black bars on the sides but in reality there actually nothing being projected there. I'm going to make some kind of masking system at some point.

When I watch scope movies I use the entire screen no bars. Some that have seen my set up first hand find that not using the entire screen in 16:9 mode is odd until I put in a scope blu-ray and fill the whole screen up. Then its like

You can check out my gallery for some pictures there are 3 folders, screen shots, old set up(16:9 screen) & home theater. You can compare the screens as they are both mounted in the same place/same room.
I went with a Carada so its a fixed frame screen and there aren't many electric scope screens. There are a few though.

In the end you have to decide whats right for you. In my situation I couldn't go much bigger than 100" with a 16:9 format because I would've had to keep moving my center channel lower. Going scope allowed me to get a lot bigger picture for most of my blu-ray watching the trade off being a slightly (~3") smaller 16:9 image.

Now you're tempting me!

Is using the lens memory feature and what not to project 2:35:1 difficult?

[Pure-Evil]

you really want a FIXED FRAME screen.
try http://www.buildyourownprojectorscreen.com for cheap but awesome material.

if you get an electric you WILL get the "W" wave in it eventually if not right away and you WILL notice it in your picture. If you get an electric, and it's a must, make sure it's tab tensioned.

[Dack]

Originally Posted by Pure-Evil

you really want a FIXED FRAME screen.
try http://www.buildyourownprojectorscreen.com for cheap but awesome material.

if you get an electric you WILL get the "W" wave in it eventually if not right away and you WILL notice it in your picture. If you get an electric, and it's a must, make sure it's tab tensioned.

Unfortunately, my home theatre area can only support a retractable screen.

This is one I have in mind:

http://www.amazon.com/Elite-TE138C-E16-CineTension2-Electric-Projection/dp/tech-data/B004PTMU14

[victorvondoom88]

Originally Posted by Dack

Now you're tempting me!

Is using the lens memory feature and what not to project 2:35:1 difficult?

Sorry for the late response. No there is good instructions in the manual for proper throw distance. I had to make an extension to move my projector back an additional 2 feet I think to make it work for me but that was upgrading from a 16:9 set up.

Once you have it set you save it in the memory. I have two presets one named 2.35:1 & one named 16:9. Its a few simple button pushes and Pow! Pow!

There is even a automatic function that will do it for you. I turned it off because of films like TDK that switch formats repeatedly, also because I watch TV on it and some commercials are scope-ish and some are not and likewise with the shows themselves.

[bigshot]

You want a home theater screen that conforms to 16:9. I've had a Stewart motorized screen for several years. It's flawless.

[Dusso Janladde]

Originally Posted by Dack

and I think I've decided on going 16:9 (unless anyone can convince me otherwise).

Ideally, your screen should be both as wide and as tall as the available wall space for it, regardless of aspect ratio. Any projected image should fill either the full height or full width of it.

For example, if your available screen space was 112" wide by 84" high, you'd be best off with a 1.33:1 (4:3) screen. At the other extreme, if you available screen space was 129" wide by 58" high, you'd be best off with a 2.35:1 screen.

[Dack]

Originally Posted by Dusso Janladde

Ideally, your screen should be both as wide and as tall as the available wall space for it, regardless of aspect ratio. Any projected image should fill either the full height or full width of it.

For example, if your available screen space was 112" wide by 84" high, you'd be best off with a 1.33:1 (4:3) screen. At the other extreme, if you available screen space was 129" wide by 58" high, you'd be best off with a 2.35:1 screen.

Yeah, the room is super long and not overly high, so I think Im going 2:35:1 so long as its not difficult to project in that ratio with the panasonic.

[Pure-Evil]

Originally Posted by Dack

Yeah, the room is super long and not overly high, so I think Im going 2:35:1 so long as its not difficult to project in that ratio with the panasonic.

you'll need an anamorphic lense...that's going to be $$$

[rpatt]

I bought a PT-AE7000 and plan to get the screen that you linked to but in 106". I need to have an electric roll up as I want to still use my wall mounted flat screen. As mentioned, you can use the AE7000 in 2.35:1 with the lens memory feature. Are you getting a new or used AE7000? The reason I'm asking is that the first run of these had a flicker problem and it is still not clear if it was the lamp, ballast or software. Panasonic is not being very open with this problem. You should read through this thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1363959

[Dack]

Originally Posted by rpatt

I bought a PT-AE7000 and plan to get the screen that you linked to but in 106". I need to have an electric roll up as I want to still use my wall mounted flat screen. As mentioned, you can use the AE7000 in 2.35:1 with the lens memory feature. Are you getting a new or used AE7000? The reason I'm asking is that the first run of these had a flicker problem and it is still not clear if it was the lamp, ballast or software. Panasonic is not being very open with this problem. You should read through this thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1363959

Thanks for the link! I plan to get a new AE7000.

How complicated is the lens memory feature to use? Would I still need an anamorphic lens?

Any other complications projecting in that ratio, or just mount the projector as you normally would?

[HyperRealist]

Originally Posted by Pure-Evil

you'll need an anamorphic lense...that's going to be $$$

No you do not need a anamorphic lens. I have a 2.35 screen with no lens. Just zoom. Anamorphic lens is the biggest waste of money ever.

[victorvondoom88]

Originally Posted by Pure-Evil

you'll need an anamorphic lense...that's going to be $$$

Not true with the lens memory feature. Yes an Anamorphic lens will improve the image some. But its really no different than watching a scope movie on a flatscreen. The flatscreen also loses resolution and brightness because of not using the full native panel but I think we can all agree its not a huge deal breaker.

[Pure-Evil]

Originally Posted by Dusso Janladde

Ideally, your screen should be both as wide and as tall as the available wall space for it, regardless of aspect ratio. Any projected image should fill either the full height or full width of it.

For example, if your available screen space was 112" wide by 84" high, you'd be best off with a 1.33:1 (4:3) screen. At the other extreme, if you available screen space was 129" wide by 58" high, you'd be best off with a 2.35:1 screen.

dude. that is just wrong. plain wrong. wtf are you thinking? NO ONE should ever have a 4:3 screen. period

[roar]

Originally Posted by Pure-Evil

dude. that is just wrong. plain wrong. wtf are you thinking? NO ONE should ever have a 4:3 screen. period

With proper masking why not? I think you should always let your room dictate your aspect ratio and I believe you should maximize your area and if that means you have more height than width there is nothing wrong with 4:3... especially if you watch a lot of 4:3 content. It may not work for you but it doesn't make it wrong.

[Granceshin]

You should start with the projector screen calculator at Elite Screens to know what is the best measure for your specific room.