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Go Back   Blu-ray Forum > Displays > Projectors > Projector Screens


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Old 01-30-2012, 05:13 PM   #1
cinemaphile cinemaphile is offline
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So I'm getting my projector and doing a DIY screen. I'm just trying to figure out dimensions.

Ideally I would like to go for a 2.35:1 screen, to get the most out of my wider "scope" movies. But then, since I'm not adding an anamorphic lens to my projector, that means to fill the screen with the movie it'll be projecting black space above and below the screen, right? Is it possible to rig something up to put in front of the projector when I'm watching 2.35 to mask that part from projecting to the wall?

Also, when switching between projecting 1.85 or 2.35 content, is it as simple as adjusting the zoom on the projector, or would that compromise quality and so instead it would involve physcally moving the projector forward or backward? (maybe sliding track mount if this is necessary?)

I could always just do a standard 16:9 screen, but then my 2.35 movies will be much smaller.

Advice?
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Old 01-30-2012, 05:44 PM   #2
Deciazulado Deciazulado is offline
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There might be some slight difference in quality between zooming and sliding back if you find the lens' fixed optimal zoom setting/distance/focus but since you have to slide back and forth about a minimum of 33% (10 feet to 13.5 feet for example) I think zooming would be more than goood enough. With zooming (and moving back) if your projector not is centered and perpendicular to the screen the image might move some up and down or left right, keystone a bit, so you have to take that into account when planning (There's threads about this in the Projector forum). You can surely build a rectangular "lens port black matte mask" and put it somehow in front of your projector, it wont give a razor sharp edge cut off (that's why screens has black masking) but it could help if you have light spill that bothers you. Others can chime in about their experiences (Btw, not all BDs' are transferred at exact 2.39 nor 2.35 (Theres a slight variance ranging from 2.28 to 2.42 on some) so the final exact dimension of the screen for a DIY can be up to you and masking (Also there's a couple movies wider (2.55/2.75 like Ben Hur if you like those) if you want to go super DIY on the screen (you just use more zoom range).

Last edited by Deciazulado; 01-30-2012 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:39 AM   #3
cinemaphile cinemaphile is offline
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I ended up going sort of in-between. It's 96" x 50" or about 108" diagonal at 1.92:1.
I'm still playing around with ideas for movable masking and such for when I'm watching different formats, but as it is I am LOVING my new toy.
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Old 02-10-2012, 09:49 AM   #4
Deciazulado Deciazulado is offline
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mm that's happens to be basically the 2k or 4K full ratio

(1080 x 2048 or 2160 x 4096 = 1.9)
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Old 02-10-2012, 09:56 PM   #5
Kryptron Kryptron is offline
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I would set up the projector and find the right size and height you want for 2:35 1 content by projecting onto a wall. Then build a 2:35 1 screen with the measurements you get from that and paint the rest of the wall around the screen a matte black. That would absorb almost all light spill from the black bars, but like mentioned before when switching back to 1:78 1 or other aspects depending on your projectors zooming features you might have to re-adjust each time unless the projector has a memory feature for lens shifting/zooming settings. To mask the side bars of none 2:35 content you can use black or dark curtains that are very straight and manually close them to cover black bars. That is the most affordable thing you can do. If price is no option then that opens up a new world of possibilities that would make your life much simpler.

Last edited by Kryptron; 02-10-2012 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:52 PM   #6
MrFattBill MrFattBill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kryptron View Post
I would set up the projector and find the right size and height you want for 2:35 1 content by projecting onto a wall. Then build a 2:35 1 screen with the measurements you get from that and paint the rest of the wall around the screen a matte black. That would absorb almost all light spill from the black bars, but like mentioned before when switching back to 1:78 1 or other aspects depending on your projectors zooming features you might have to re-adjust each time unless the projector has a memory feature for lens shifting/zooming settings. To mask the side bars of none 2:35 content you can use black or dark curtains that are very straight and manually close them to cover black bars. That is the most affordable thing you can do. If price is no option then that opens up a new world of possibilities that would make your life much simpler.
Even a completely flat black wall will show the overspill in a completely light controlled room, the darker the environment the easier it is to spot. Now how much it bothers someone is a matter of personal preference.

I'm starting to wish I had a Carada and their masking system but of course I have other things I would like more first

Bill
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Old 02-11-2012, 09:16 PM   #7
Kryptron Kryptron is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFattBill View Post
Even a completely flat black wall will show the overspill in a completely light controlled room, the darker the environment the easier it is to spot. Now how much it bothers someone is a matter of personal preference.

I'm starting to wish I had a Carada and their masking system but of course I have other things I would like more first

Bill
Now don't these masking system use some type of black fabric? I know most dark fabrics reflect less light than any matte wall paint and would prob help with room acoustics also. I'm just curious because I'm thinking about building a dedicated theater room myself and it will be very dark at all times. Instead of spending 2-3k on an anamorphic lens i thought about doing the same as the op.

Last edited by Kryptron; 02-11-2012 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:28 AM   #8
Deciazulado Deciazulado is offline
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A flat surface, like a regular wall is mostly like this _____________ and light bounces once from it.

If the wall (or material's) surface is irregular (something like this v^-v^_^V_^v ) light has to bounce a little more times from it between the irregularities before it goes back towards you so it looks darker. So a porous or irregular surface material works like a mini light-trap (That's also the basic difference between matte paint and glossy paint (or between a white wall and a mirror: irregular vs regular (flat/polished) reflection).

I remember about 4/5 years ago, someone posted news here in the forum about a breakthrough technique/material that absorbed much more light by using some of these principles, and me thinking that technique could be used to line the interior of projectors around the imager/lens to reduce projector internal flare to a minimum, increasing simultaneous (ANSI) contrast in transmisive imagers and also dynamic contrast in reflective imagers, which would also reduce light spill (light spill is flare). Haven't heard from that again.
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:03 AM   #9
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When I did my 2.35 screen I actually covered the entire wall above and below the screen in black velvet. I really liked the way it looked. The screen was inset into the wall.

I eventually decided to redo my whole theatre and have now gone to a 1.78 screen so the the current pics in my gallery are out of date.
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Old 10-14-2014, 05:03 AM   #10
Flatnate Flatnate is offline
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Well I painted up a 135 inch diagonal 2.35:1 scope screen recently. I love the look of it and the dimensions. My hope is to go with a acoustically transparent one in the not so distant future.

Pros:

Works well for my room. Due to my low ceiling the scope dimension screen allows for maximum size without dropping the low edge so far down that the if I do a second row it becomes unusable. I really think room dimension plays a factor in the choice. I don't mind watching 16:9 or the acadamy aspect ratio on it. The "black bars" on the side seem to be easier to dismiss given my room dimensions. Eventually I want to get masking panels and then it should be even more of a non issue.

Cons:

I really need an anamorphic lens and the associated cost is steep for a nice one. I'm using the zoom method now and its kinda a pain in the butt. I could easily buy a Panasonic with lens memory for the cost of a new good quality lens. I'd rather hold out while the 4k spec matures and laser technologies replace lamps. Pushing my projectors performance for that size screen seems to take a slight hit in both contrast and brightness. Variable aspect ratio films present a real challenge. I hope they don't become the new norm.

Overall though, in my room, I just want to figure out how to do scope properly and stick with it.
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