Custom mods / adapters to make 2D TVs 3D compatible

[Lee A Stewart]

It's essential. Without it, your 3D is going to look like this:

[tripletopper]

How would you get a double image if the timing is right on an external syncer is proper and correct?

That looks like a Polarized Passive double exposure.

The only way you could have an active shutter-based double exposure is either mis-timing or something mechanically wrong with the eyeglasses.

the only reason you get double exposure in a pause is so you could stare at the paused picture in 3D accurately. otherwise if you are watching a video that was meant to be watched with shutter 3D you'd get the Wang Chung/ Max Headroom effect. Alternating discontinuous frames.

if the only thing preventing a universal shutter 3D add on working according to Lee's theory (not saying it's either true ot false) is a backlight, I don't know how that is disqualifying, since modern technology takes a less intense, more broadly spread, constant (strobing?) white light vs CRTs, and changes pigments every so often all at once, then wouldn't all modern TVs qualify as backlit? Isn't that true of all subtractive color TV (starts at white shaded by pigments?) as opposed to additive color technologies, (start at black, add different intensities of 3 component color lights and make their duration lomg enough to perceive, both short enough to refresh by next frame?) Have a backlight?

[tripletopper]

Hold on. We got an Anaglyph technology, a shutter technology, and an OLED polar technology all being discussed at once. It's hard to tell who is responding to who.

[Lee A Stewart]

Originally Posted by Lee A Stewart

It's essential. Without it, your 3D is going to look like this:

This is not double exposure. It is one of the cons of active shutter glasses: ghosting.

[tripletopper]

First Lee, I assume you're talking to me about a universal Shutter TV adapters. Others are talking about universal Anaglyph adapters, and still others are talking about universal OLED polar light adapters.

You said brightness is the cure for Active Ghosting. (By ghosting, I assume you mean that black shadow of a double exposure, because most modern technologies are subtractive (start at white and darken along cyan yellow and magenta axises)

I thought the only issue is timing.

If there is black ghosting, and LCD is a subtractive technology, then wouldn't a shutter technology on a additive display (like a CRT TV) have "white ghosting" by that logic?

By the way is ghosting only the effect or result of mistimed shutters? I understand that's an issue with a universal Shutter adapter.... You have to "tune it" to the correct delay.

My idea has a frame start reader and a signal writer in the audio as a code when the screen is presented and a code reader in the audio output, then shouldn't it be automatically tuned to automatically be tuned to the proper tv delay?

Also if wired by 3.5mm cables, then shouldn't it be close to ib
nstant. And you can Y split 3.5 mm cables as long as there is enough power to read the signal.

Analog FM radio is a delay-free signal transmitter.

3.5mm removes necessity for batteries Obut does keep you tethered). It could in theory be powered by a NiMH AAA battery and combined with headphones for post decoded 2 track 360x360 surround sound.

[Lee A Stewart]

Ghosting, otherwise known as Crosstalk is inherent in active shutter LCD 3D TVs due to the technology's Latency: Lag Time - the difference between the time there is a signal input, and the time it takes the input to display on the screen. It is something that can't be overcome. That's why they moved to polarized 3D instead.

[tripletopper]

Okay, it's caused by lag time.

So what you're saying is that if a device could correctly compensate for lag then the shutter effect should work.

If a chip had a signal indicating when the frame start signal enters the TV meaning time when signal is generated, and could sense when that same signal is exiting that TV, the time it's being displayed, that it should just work as well as a CRT TV with constant sub-microsecond ping time.

Hey Lee, did you read how I proposed to compensate for ping time in a way that's fairly automatic? Use an HDMI input dongle, and a sound output dongle (either HDMI ARC, Toslink, Coaxial, RCA LR, or 3.5mm) to detect the same thing before and after. And sync up the glasses with the after.

Have a compensated for paying correctly in a guaranteed way?

This would also be a cool way to make an auto ping test machine for tv displays.

[Lee A Stewart]

The best solution is not to use an LCD TV. Use an OLED TV which has no latency. But it's all a moot point as no one is going to make a 3D adapter that will turn a current OLED into a 3D OLED.

The best solution is get a DLP 3D ready projector. Crosstalk is not an issue with DLP technology.

Stop trying to reinvent the wheel tripletopper.