Ways to Watch a 3D Blu-ray Without a 3D TV

[Joe D.]

Got my 3D Blu-ray player for the video Wizard.

Confirmed my calibration was correct in standard mode. With Blu-ray, the wizard delivered a surprisingly well detailed 3D picture with natural color saturation, no real crosstalk and no wash out. Shimmering is at a minimum. Cable 3D produced anaglyph crosstalk which requires eyeball changes to a perfectly tweaked picture. Blu Ray does not

And the 3D definitely works. I used Grand Canyon Adventure and Gravity as demos. Will not say it has the same high degree of standard as my actual set but was surprised of the impact nonetheless. Objects won't protrude much out of the screen, the grand canyon was a bit less wide open, but there was plenty of depth inside the shuttle with objects floating all over the place and one could still get sick rafting down the Colorado.

It also loses its impact quickly the further one sits away from the screen. I'm a little over four feet from my 40 inch set.

Ran into none of the disappointment Bladerunner did with the Edison. Too bad this is no longer being manufactured for it was a nice alternative for getting a second system without having to junk the HD set one already had. Was lucky one came up unopened on Amazon and with bonus points paid only $36 for it and replaced an inexpensive Blu-ray player for a refurbished 3D unit for another $39.

So while lacking the full punch of a 3D monitor being an anaglyph box connected to a 2D set, for the performance, I'm more than happy. It does work.

[DuranFanWI]

Originally Posted by Joe D.

Got my 3D Blu-ray player for the video Wizard.

Confirmed my calibration was correct in standard mode. With Blu-ray, the wizard delivered a surprisingly well detailed 3D picture with natural color saturation, no real crosstalk and no wash out. Shimmering is at a minimum.

Hi Joe, I have one of these 3D Video Wizard players as well. Any particular settings that you have for this that you'd be able to share? One of the main problems that I'm running into is that objects in certain shades of blue have more of a green color to them. As such, the Na'Vi in the movie Avatar look closer to the Hulk instead. Did you find a workaround for this?

[Joe D.]

Hi Duran,

Well, of course I calibrated the set to be sure adjustments were right. But one problem I had was adjusting the contrast level. Even at the highest, boxes and stars on the test patterns that were supposed to be invisible still could be seen.

The solution I found might help you with the greenish issue (if tint is correctly set). I went into the "clear white" in my TVs advanced settings (the red, green and blue gain and push). By increasing the "push" on all three primary colors, it decreased the shading that was making it impossible to balance the contrast. It then became perfect.

Maybe adjusting the green or the blue gain or push in the clear white will do the trick if you are sure the tint is adjusted as best as possible. There might be too much of one or too little of another in play with the pure white level. Just a guess.

Did check avatar. They appear pale blue. Maybe once in a while their arms might then appear a tad greenish in an extremely bright sunlight compared to the face which is in shadows - but this is the exception, not the rule.

So you might just need that hairbreadth adjustment in white balance. Usually these are set in the middle.

Hey, what is your opinion of the wizard overall?

PS. Thanks for having me check out avatar. Nice test. 3D really had a substantial impact, more than I expected. Some stuff even popped out a little more. Also found the depth is better with the setting in my Sony player adjusted to -2. Might be because anyglth is more backward oriented?

[Joe D.]

Just got Seventh Son and watched it on my main system. Tremendous 3D and a vivid picture in detail, sharpness and color saturation. So natch, went to see how it looked on the 3D wizard.

Whereas it would be a ten in the living room, would give it a six on this one. The qualities were all there but to a lesser degree. Nice 3D but lacking the punch seen before. Sharp picture with decent detail, nice color but a bit subdued though not washed out. Slight increase of color level decreased the 3D a little - probably due to it being anaglyph dependent. So kept color as was.

At first it was a downer. Was hoping more like a seven or eight. Then reminded myself it was unfair to expect what I saw in the other room. And so for the small investment, a six for this device is a nice achievement for what I think is a near reference disk.

[TransAM]

Anyone know if the new Oculus Go can be used to play 3D Blu-ray disks???

[Joe D.]

Brief update.

My 40 inch set is actually 38 inches so had to alter the size in the player's 3D settings.

This had me change the player's depth setting from -2 to +1.

When entering the same bluray calibration settings for cable (separate HDMI input) the color was faded. Then remembered increasing the red, blue and green push to get more white for precision bluray contrast. Set them back to default and the color came in beautifully. So did same for bluray and color became fuller.

These changes increased depth and picture quality a bit while also creating occasional anaglyph yellow. crosstalk - not lasting long enough to even be an annoyance.

So overall would change the 6 to a 6.6.

SECOND UPDATE

Forgot changes in one setting could affect proper adjustments for others. Which is what happened to a few which were then slightly off. Ignored my obsession with perfecting contrast - the disc even said many LED sets could not reach optimum contrast and to just keep it at the highest level. After returning the red, blue and green pushes to normal, still used high gamma and dynamic contrast levels plus no advanced black level to achieve to be honest, only a negligible improvement on the test pattern. This was a mistake on my part which I then corrected.

Happy to have found this did improve the picture quality for both 3D and standard Blu-ray. More objects appear on top of the screen than before so there is a bit more depth and deeper black. Can even sit further back without losing much. For what it's worth, this raises it to a 6.9.

[Joe D.]

Originally Posted by TransAM

Anyone know if the new Oculus Go can be used to play 3D Blu-ray disks???

Hope this helps TransAM,


https://www.mediadimo.com/play-3d-bl...-headsets.html

[J2005]

For all my 3D experts here I need your help I'm looking into getting a 3d converter box for my Samsung 40 inch 4K tv 6 series model & these are the only options I've come across aside from using my PS VR for 3D viewing but like a lot of people I hate having to wear a headset for a 2hr + movie

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Video-Wiza...blurayforum-20

http://www.consignia.ca/vip-3d-theat...sses-included/

so members who have used these setups which one would be better for me to invest in?

thanks for your help

[Joe D.]

Originally Posted by J2005

For all my 3D experts here I need your help I'm looking into getting a 3d converter box for my Samsung 40 inch 4K tv 6 series model & these are the only options I've come across aside from using my PS VR for 3D viewing but like a lot of people I hate having to wear a headset for a 2hr + movie

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Video-Wiza...blurayforum-20

http://www.consignia.ca/vip-3d-theat...sses-included/

so members who have used these setups which one would be better for me to invest in?

thanks for your help

Hi j,

Can only speak for the wizard and only add to what I've already said.

Only change made since I wrote last was setting the picture output in my player from "standard" to "theater" which increased the depth a little more. So raise it to 7.0.

It is fun and provides a surprisingly pleasing 3D picture for such a small investment. But keep in mind, it won't rectreate the full wow factor that an actual 3D monitor does. You might get more of that with your Samsung being its a higher end model compared to mine. That's only a guess.

Good luck.

[DuranFanWI]

Originally Posted by Joe D.

Hey, what is your opinion of the wizard overall?

Sorry for the late response ... I like it overall! It's great as a secondary unit for one of the other TV's that isn't a 3D unit, so for the price that I got it for (I think it was $40 from a local seller on craigslist a few years back), it's definitely worth it. Thanks for the settings tips, the greenish tint is mostly eliminated now. I'd probably rate the wizard an 8.0 overall based on price paid and quality of the 3D presentation. At the very least, it's worth picking up as a backup unit in case a 3D HDTV would crap out.

Forgot to mention that my PSVR can play 3D blu-ray movies as well, where the headset tricks your eyes into thinking you're watching a movie on a ridiculously huge screen. It's not 1080p quality when watching it, probably closer to 720p. But definitely watchable.

[Joe D.]

Originally Posted by DuranFanWI

Sorry for the late response ... I like it overall! It's great as a secondary unit for one of the other TV's that isn't a 3D unit, so for the price that I got it for (I think it was $40 from a local seller on craigslist a few years back), it's definitely worth it. Thanks for the settings tips, the greenish tint is mostly eliminated now. I'd probably rate the wizard an 8.0 overall based on price paid and quality of the 3D presentation. At the very least, it's worth picking up as a backup unit in case a 3D HDTV would crap out.

Forgot to mention that my PSVR can play 3D blu-ray movies as well, where the headset tricks your eyes into thinking you're watching a movie on a ridiculously huge screen. It's not 1080p quality when watching it, probably closer to 720p. But definitely watchable.

Hi Duran,

Thanks for getting back and glad was able to help you resolve the greenish tint issue.

I also still did some tinkering after we last chatted. Was tough because I did not want to tamper with the calibration settings.

First, changed my bluray output from standard to theater. Wouldn't do that with my main unit but for anaglyph this had a major impact on the color strength which also increased depth a little.

Then read the tips that were on line. One said to reduce the sharpness level. I was in for quite a surprise. Watched San Andreas and the difference was startling. Much more depth front to back and in between with objects sticking out a bit further in front of the screen. Reduced it from 49 to 15 so was quite a drop yet the picture still retained its detail and was not soft.

Because its anaglyph, found the Wizard brings out the crosstalk occasionally found on some discs more than regular 3D sets, with yellow outlines instead of clear, ghosty ones surrounding certain objects. That is the only drawback if one is looking to be critical but even that is nothing major.

So I would give this device a solid ten with the 3D itself being an 8. It now exceeds my expectations, having successfully converted my regular 38 inch HD set into a quality, secondary 3D monitor. Just took more meticulous tweaking to bring out the best of it probably because it is anaglyph.

I only paid $36.50 for mine (had bonus points) and was so fortunate it popped up on Amazon when it did and I snatched it. It had to be brand new as listed (even if a long shelf life) because the sticky tape was still on the box as with the packaging inside.

A real bargain. One should not put it down comparing it to a standard 3D monitor with the full impact of passive or active technology. They should compare it to the 2D they started out with and the small cost converting that into effective 3D.

[Bladerunner5375]

Joe D: wanna thank you, brother. I picked up the Wizard on amazon for $100 and I am pleasantly surprised. I'm using it with a 75 inch Vizio P series tv and I sit about 15 feet away from the tv. I tried some black and white 3d blu-ray movies first, in particular "It came from Outer Space" and "Creature from the Black Lagoon". I put my vizio into "vivid" mode and was really happy with the depth and 3d effect on those films. Next, I viewed a modern movie, "Captain America Civil War". That movie was always a little cross-talky, and while it STILL was with the Wizard, it was much less so.

I was surprised how the colors on the modern 3d films weren't muted. Bottom line, i'm really happy with this, and YOU are the reason I even tried it. Much thanks to you, sir. God bless!

[Joe D.]

Originally Posted by Bladerunner5375

Joe D: wanna thank you, brother. I picked up the Wizard on amazon for $100 and I am pleasantly surprised. I'm using it with a 75 inch Vizio P series tv and I sit about 15 feet away from the tv. I tried some black and white 3d blu-ray movies first, in particular "It came from Outer Space" and "Creature from the Black Lagoon". I put my vizio into "vivid" mode and was really happy with the depth and 3d effect on those films. Next, I viewed a modern movie, "Captain America Civil War". That movie was always a little cross-talky, and while it STILL was with the Wizard, it was much less so.

I was surprised how the colors on the modern 3d films weren't muted. Bottom line, i'm really happy with this, and YOU are the reason I even tried it. Much thanks to you, sir. God bless!

Hi blade runner,

You don't know how great that makes me feel. So glad you're happy with it. Like me, you now have another 3D system simply using a HD television you already owned and happy with. Much less expensive than replacing a good monitor, right?

So surprising how great it is considering it's an anglyth system.

You can always try tweaking some of your Vizio adjustments for I found subtle changes here and there got the 3D picture even better - unless you know the depth, etc is already similar to what you know.

I don't have mine in the vivid mode but the contrast and brightness settings are a bit higher than my HD callibrations along with some others. Would not be good for regular Blu-ray and cable but perfect for the Wizard. So the standard mode is for 3D and the movie mode (where callibrations have not been changed) is for standard Blu-ray, DVDs and cable.

I love it and am even more happier than before because I just purchased another darbee 5000s video processor for that system and it did enhance both the 3D and picture detail.

Must look great on your 75 inch Vizio. I only have a 38 inch set in the den so sit maybe five feet away.

Do you have a cable box hooked up to one of the two HDMI inputs? I do because HBO on demand also carries 3D movies. They are side by side so you would have to manually make the mode side by side.
It also does the same level of converting 2D to 3D as regular 3D monitors.

Thanks so much for the nice word, bro. Again, am so happy you are pleased with the result.

[tripletopper]

That is the dream of the TV salesman. Sell the TV on the basis of that the custoemr wants in a TV... Then addd a compenent to make it 3D.

This would do a lot of things. Irt increases the vairety of 3D TVs avalable and doesn’t limit you to certain models. Likewise the opposite effect of steering people aweay from expensive TVs just becuase it has a 3D stink is avoided with this too.

That is exactly the reason why no one bundles surround sound with TVs. If they were hard wired attached, you’d either pay really big bucks for a custom combo, or buy a predefined and most likely settle somewhere in some aspect.

And this technology is a reality. Case in example, the Sega Master System Sega Scope 3D. That worked on any TV, of any size, of any brand, of any hookup type. And that technology is no longer patent protected.

There’s only one problem wht an External 3D adpater: syncing with a TV. The master system was easy with sub microsecond ping time, but ping times vary on TVs from 1 ms to 100 ms. There is an automatic soultion. Use an ARC signal. I assume the arc signal delays the sound to match the picture aurtomatically. The same principle can be used for external glasses synchers.

What about old TVs with no Arc Out port? Let’s do it optically. Just use a sub-microsecond single pixel camera, aka a video game light gun.

Light guns don’t actually know "where" they shoot. Frames are generated pixel by pixel on a CRT TV, and the gun computes the where, based on the "when" it senses, which is in frames quicker than a microseond. When the TV is back getting it’s primary frame to base its differences off of, a black picture appears on 2D TV, but a black and white flash at every eye change appears for like a tenth of a second. Long enough to get a signal, but short enough to be a low dose (ie non harmful) exposure for epileptics. it computes when to sync the left and right by timing when it’s black and white and will have that constant synched delay until you cut off the signal by changing the channel, turning off, or moving to a different commercial.

You need to route all 3D inputs into the syncher, then to the TV, then back to the syncher. and then to the audio.

[Joe D.]

I have the 3D video wizard hooked up to my 2D set in the den.

Though anaglyph and limited with pop out range beyond the screen, it provides a truly decent natural 3D effect with depth. Probably a 7.5 compared to built in 3D. Very satisfying if kept in that perspective.

It's no longer manufactured but means these devices do work with standard high definition TV sets. Get a modest 3d Blu-ray player and one doesn't need to break the bank or junk a good set just to add on 3D.

[tripletopper]

@joe_d. have you ever experienced the Sega MAzter System Sega Scope 3D?

It worked with any TV in the market at the time. And it was full color 3D. The only side effect was a Wang Chung picture when looked at without glasses. (that’s probably how they filmed "Everybody Have Fun Tonight", in 3D, with alternate frames, and played it back as a 2D video) There is no permanent damage to adding shutter to an otherwise perfectly good 2D TV.

There is a lot less damage to the TV adding a shutter based external box to a 2D TV, than trying to retrofit a 2D TV with a polarized based technology. Shutter, just plug in, select 3D, and either ARC sync or light gun sync. How does one go retrofitting polar 3D on a non-polar TV. It’s probably not cheap or easy. Definitely not as simple as hooking up a box.

Yes, this idea is basically a 3D Wizard except instead of using red-and-cyan, it uses alternate frames. And it syncs the glasses with it.

For these purposes a light gun will work because it is detecting "when" the right and left frames are, as a purely timing input device. Not using the essentially the same when and computing a "where" it is pointed at. The reason that doesn’t work on modern TVs is because all the pixels are drawn at once. CRTs are drawn one pixel at a time.

IN B/W TV there was no concept of a pixel, just a line. Along rows there might not even be pixels in the B/W sense. B/W is purely analog (continuous) along the lines and digital (distinct) between lines.Therefore it doesn’t matter where you aim. as long as it’s directly at the TV. The only reason you count pixels in color TV is because there’s alternating, distinct red, green, and blue elements.

[Joe D.]

Originally Posted by tripletopper

@joe_d. have you ever experienced the Sega MAzter System Sega Scope 3D?

It worked with any TV in the market at the time. And it was full color 3D. The only side effect was a Wang Chung picture when looked at without glasses. (that’s probably how they filmed "Everybody Have Fun Tonight", in 3D, with alternate frames, and played it back as a 2D video) There is no permanent damage to adding shutter to an otherwise perfectly good 2D TV.

There is a lot less damage to the TV adding a shutter based external box to a 2D TV, than trying to retrofit a 2D TV with a polarized based technology. Shutter, just plug in, select 3D, and either ARC sync or light gun sync. How does one go retrofitting polar 3D on a non-polar TV. It’s probably not cheap or easy. Definitely not as simple as hooking up a box.

Yes, this idea is basically a 3D Wizard except instead of using red-and-cyan, it uses alternate frames. And it syncs the glasses with it.

For these purposes a light gun will work because it is detecting "when" the right and left frames are, as a purely timing input device. Not using the essentially the same when and computing a "where" it is pointed at. The reason that doesn’t work on modern TVs is because all the pixels are drawn at once. CRTs are drawn one pixel at a time.

IN B/W TV there was no concept of a pixel, just a line. Along rows there might not even be pixels in the B/W sense. B/W is purely analog (continuous) along the lines and digital (distinct) between lines.Therefore it doesn’t matter where you aim. as long as it’s directly at the TV. The only reason you count pixels in color TV is because there’s alternating, distinct red, green, and blue elements.

Hi triplet,

Can't say I have. This technical talk is mostly over my head anyway

[heyadol]

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/v...r/x/18969734#/

I saw this on Indiegogo and asked the campaign owner if it supported 3D, the respond:

As of right now, the 4k projector does not support 3D content. This feature will be added in a future update, though!

Any idea how they’re doing this?

[TM2-Megatron]

Originally Posted by heyadol

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/v...r/x/18969734#/

I saw this on Indiegogo and asked the campaign owner if it supported 3D, the respond:

As of right now, the 4k projector does not support 3D content. This feature will be added in a future update, though!

Any idea how they’re doing this?

If the projector supports a high enough frame rate (pretty likely, given its basic specs) and has bluetooth necessary to connect to active 3-D glasses, it'd be pretty easy for them to add 3-D to it via a firmware update.

Ultra short-throw projectors are a truly fantastic concept, and the affordability of that one is impressive. I'm really eager to see what the future holds for that technology.

[Jay G.]

Originally Posted by heyadol

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/v...r/x/18969734#/

I saw this on Indiegogo and asked the campaign owner if it supported 3D, the respond:

As of right now, the 4k projector does not support 3D content. This feature will be added in a future update, though!

Any idea how they’re doing this?

They'll just add the ability to show alternating images to work with active shutter glasses. I think you'll also likely need to add a transmitter of some sort for the active glasses.


For SegaScope 3-D Glasses, it was just alternating fields at 60/50hz. This is sort of slow for active shutter glasses: HDTVs were doing it at 120hz. The slower the shutter rate, the more noticeable the flicker:
https://segaretro.org/3-D_Glasses
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Active...D_system#Games


To add on an active shutter system to a 2D LCD/OLED, you'd need one that can accept a 120fps signal. Not many TVs officially support 120fps yet (ironically, the active 3D TVs are some of the few that unofficially support it).
https://www.blurbusters.com/overclock/120hz-pc-to-tv/


So the add-on box would take in the 24fps 3D HDMI signal and replex it to 2D 120hz, alternating between right and left. But of course, you'll then have to deal with the TV processing the image, and introducing lag, which could throw off sync.


I use ARC for sound, and the sync isn't automatic. There's a default delay, but it depends on the device you're sending the audio to, so there's a way to adjust the delay in the TV settings. For sound this is "good enough," since it doesn't have to be 100% accurate, but for 3D TV it'd have to be a lot more fine-tunable.