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#41 |
Expert Member
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Preparing for the future when my Samsung 3D set goes bye-bye.
Looking at picking up an inexpensive projector to put downstairs in my dedicated home theater room. I already have an older projection TV with mediocre 3D (slower refresh rate equals annoying flicker). These BenQs really seem to be great quality and affordable. Knowing nothing about 3D projectors (I have an old Optima portable projector that's still kicking - use it outside for backyard movie nights), I'm looking to spend $1-2k. 4K is of little concern to me since I'll mainly be watching 3D Blus on it. I'm also partial to active glasses. Questions: -Does 3D Ready mean 3D out of the box? Would I still need an emitter like my older projection TV. -Can most of these be mounted to the ceiling and still have audio wires run to a deck up near the screen? Does it have to be HDMI audio or can I use component cords (yes, I'm in the dark ages with audio, but sound is not my priority if I can crank up a nice DTS track)? -Speaking of ceiling mounts, this would probably be pointed down. Assuming keystone controls would fill out a screen? I see some used BenQ W1070, but since they are discontinued (and used). Am I getting into a nightmare should I need replacement bulbs, parts, etc? Any help would be appreciated...I'm just lost at where to start. Thank you! |
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#42 |
Member
Apr 2007
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So I tested a BENQ 2150ST and TH671ST just for 3D purposes. I got the TH671ST as it was a fair bit brighter in 3D mode. This is a very short throw so it only sits a few feet from the screen. I have another projector in my theater room for all other viewing. Just use this for 3D. The color wheel on the TH671ST allows more white brightness at the expense of color fidelity but when viewing thru shutter glasses brightness is king and I find the colors to be very good. This color wheel will show more rainbow effect - but I do not see it and I am not sensitive but there are some that are and the color wheel on the 2150st would be better for them (and the 2D picture is better as well). Another thing I like about the TH671ST is the DLP Link uses the white segment of the wheel I believe and there is no red tint that can happen with a RGBRGB wheel that uses Red for the synch flash. For the low price this sells for it has been a good purchase for my 3D viewing in my theater room. This projector works out of the box for 3D - all you need is DLP link glasses (triple flash). 3D is also at 144Hz (72 Hz per eye) so there is no flicker or other artifacts from a lower refresh rate. My choices were limited to very short throws and there are other projectors that do well with different throw lengths. The TK800M is a good candidate for a 4K projector that does 3D. It is bright enough that you have to be careful on the glasses (BENQ work) as some 3rd party glasses don't like the brightness of the flashes (can be fixed with a piece of tape over the sensor). Just what I read on that - no first hand experience.
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Thanks given by: | Mao (08-15-2019) |
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#43 |
Active Member
Aug 2013
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Xiaomi have just released a genuine 4k laser projector for under 3k...9000 Lumens yes it needs a pet crystal screen for optimum picture, but it's 3d and the 4k is stunning.... Plus 20,000 hours lamp life.... Whilst there's limited reviews, it might be worth a shot...
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#44 | |
Active Member
Jun 2012
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![]() Most current DLP projectors utilize DLP Link active shutter glasses which get their signal via the screen reflection. I prefer RF technology but nowadays mostly the more expensive models feature a 3D Sync Vesa port to which to attach a 3D-RF emitter for compatible glasses. Usually you flip the projector over and either attach it to the ceiling via a panel it has been screwed on via the screw holes or straight to a ceiling mount. Projector should hang parallel to the floor, angling it requires keystone corrections (available?) that deteriorates image sharpness. In a home theater setup a projector usually just serves as the image monitor, connected to the AV receiver or playback device via a long HDMI cable. For the sound an AV receiver or soundbar is recommended. ![]() |
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Thanks given by: | Mao (08-15-2019) |
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#45 | |
Expert Member
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Got a great deal on a barely used W1070 and I'll start there....can't wait to experience 3D on a bigger screen! |
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#47 | |
Power Member
Jan 2014
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Without these answers the suggestions you get are moot. |
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#48 |
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#49 |
Expert Member
Jan 2011
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Is there a thread for screens that are best for 3D?
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#50 |
Active Member
Jun 2012
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To my knowledge no and same goes for the AVS Forum.
Based on my experience the goal is inevitably to gain a bright 3D picture to overcome the loss of brightness due to 3D shutter glasses, i.e. a screen with high "gain". If you place your 3D front projector close to eye level, the best screen choice would be a retro-reflective one (see Illustration attached), because this one makes certain that most of the light that hits the screen will be reflected towards your eyes. The ambient light rejecting (ALR) screens use microscopic crystals to ensure that kind of light reflection, myself I'm using an old Da-Lite "High Power 2.8" (gain) screen with microscopic glass beads protected by a surface layer (unfortunately this one is no longer manufactured!). As a result and with put on 3D glasses my 3D images look as bright on my HP 2.8 as the "2D" images on my standard 1.0 gain screen! Alternatively you might check around for a 2.4 glass beads screen (many offers from China), perhaps less expensive than an ALR Screen but you might get a little hotspot in the center and can't clean the surface (glass beads are glued onto the open surface). And you must muster some self-restraint. I caught myself watching regular programs on my HP screen without glasses because it's as bright as a flat screen (but will only work in a table-mounted front projector environment!). ![]() |
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Thanks given by: | Rui (08-29-2019) |
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#51 | |
Expert Member
Jan 2011
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any recommendations knowing that info? |
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#52 |
Active Member
Jun 2012
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I perfectly understand the decision to ceiling mount the projector (it's out of the way and perhaps the fan noise is less audible), but your 2D images will inevitably always be brighter than your 3D ones (because of the shutter glasses).
If you can go with a frame fixed screen I'd still suggest you look into the ALR "Xy-screen" options. There are plenty of threads on the internet discussing that particular screen. However, a lot of people over-emphasize the role of the projection screen, IMHO. If you can paint the wall area around the projection image with a dull black color and have additional options to reduce ambient light (lamps, windows etc.) hitting your projection image area, you'll already increase the perceived brightness of your later projection image by turning your basement into a "batcave". |
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Thanks given by: | Rui (09-02-2019) |
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#53 | |
Expert Member
Jan 2011
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#55 |
Expert Member
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Highly suggest when going with a projector to invest in some triple black velvet to surround the screen walls and ceiling with. That stuff absorbs light like a sponge. I would maybe look into a slightly older JVC projector which is being replaced by a newer model. Can find a X590RB on clearance in Canada for $3600 and I think eastporters ship stateside as well. Only have 1 left Plus you would need to buy a 3D RF Emitter too, but I can’t complain about the 3D from my 3 year old X950. Plus you can mess around with the BT2020 profile and custom colour profile/gamma to give yourself a nice looking 3D image with punchier colour looking image that comes closer to watching a regular 2D disc. Well at least I’ve tried it with pretty good results. Just downloaded them from the AVSforum boards from various users tinkering around with their projectors.
No idea on screens as I’m still using the same 106” pull down screen I got with my Epson 8350 projector almost 9 years ago. Works for me and I believe is just a simple 1.0 gain white screen |
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Thanks given by: | Rui (09-05-2019) |
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#56 |
Member
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I used Carl’s Place UltraWhite (recommended for 4K Ultra HD/Active 3d where you can control light intrusion) Projector Screen Material and built a frame from composite deck material (only because of the size and wanting it to be dimensionally stable). It works well with 3D. Options depend on your ability to control light- you might want their grey material is you have light intrusion. It is fairly inexpensive if you are handy and can build a frame. It was under $300 for my 185" diagonal screen.
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Thanks given by: | Rui (09-05-2019) |
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#57 |
Senior Member
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I'm seeking an upgrade from a 720p 3D projector to a 1080p 3D projector. I'm willing to spend between $300.00-$550.00 price range. I'm looking also into 1080p 3D mini projectors LED or laser or LED/Laser Hybrids. I would prefer bulbless projectors if any available. Any good suggestions?
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#58 |
Active Member
Jun 2012
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I don't think you'll get any LED or Laser for that price range.
If you really want a great 1080p 3D projector, I'd recommend the DLP projector Vivitek H1188 or 1189. Might cost a few $ more, but it's a great 3D DLP projector (and also allows the use of 3D-RF glasses). |
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#59 | |
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