LG OLED Official Owners Thread

[RevolverOcelScott]

LG Owners, maybe you can help. Actually, anyone with a large TV can help!

Anyone have any good advice for moving large TVs? Closing on my new house this week, and need to move my 77inch C2! Not moving too far (25minutes). I've seen the boxes sold on Home Depot for like 45 bucks, and that probably seems like the best shot, but was curious if anyone had any tips or tricks!

[d3nt0n]

When I moved I bought a screen cover for my TV so the screen wouldn't get scratched. That was well worth the money.

[oddbox83]

Have decent insurance…

I haven’t broke one of mine (touch wood) but moving a 65” OLED for decorating and getting a new one has been one of the most stressful moments of my life.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by Hydra Spectre

That's a nice argument. However, I prefer just leaving the original HDR10 on.
If I want Dolby Vision on UHDs, I would just look for Russian torrents that spliced in the DV metadata from streams to the UHD remux.
Now if the Panasonic Blu-ray players can convert HDR10+ to Dolby Vision on the other hand, I would be much more interested.

I prefer DTM Off for dark rooms (HGiG for games), and On for bright rooms (but I mostly prefer watching/playing in the dark).

At the same token, it you just leave everything alone for HDR10, you are sacrificing APL. From my understanding, LG TVs when tone mapping just looks at the Mastering Montior the movie was graded on and not the actual metadata. So, if the movie was mastered at 1,000 nits, the TV will lower the APL so that it can cover all of that. If the movie was mastered at 4,000 nits, it will lower the APL enough to cover that. Even if the highest HDR nit content on a disc is 500 nits and the mastering monitor was 4,000 nits, the TV will tone map it down to cover the 4,000 nits.

This is why I would turn DTM "On." And then of course if you have a Panasonic 4K Player with the HDR menu, you turn the Dynamic Range Adjustment slider down to -6 and that seems to balance things out a bit. That way you have the best of both worlds: A dynamic and properly tone mapped picture!

[dobyblue]

Originally Posted by RevolverOcelScott

LG Owners, maybe you can help. Actually, anyone with a large TV can help!

Anyone have any good advice for moving large TVs? Closing on my new house this week, and need to move my 77inch C2! Not moving too far (25minutes). I've seen the boxes sold on Home Depot for like 45 bucks, and that probably seems like the best shot, but was curious if anyone had any tips or tricks!

Since picking up my first of four plasmas in 2010 (42S2), I've never thrown away a TV box. I typically try and keep all my loudspeaker, AVR, amp, disc player boxes too. No safer way to transport these things! This doesn't help your current situation, and probably not people in smaller apartments/flats either, but boy is it huge when it's time to move OR SELL your items. I rarely ever buy anything in the used market that doesn't "include original box".

At the minimum I would definitely go with one of those hardware store boxes.

[dobyblue]

Well I'm joining the ranks of LG owners.

Just sold my TC-65EZ950C Panasonic 4K OLED that's done me very well since it replaced my TC-P60VT60 plasma and the new 77OLEDC2PUA arrives on Tuesday.

Excited to add Dolby Vision and all the benefits four generations of development in between my 2017 set and now will offer...but mostly of course excited about the bump in size. We are still enjoying the Boxing Day prices on the 77" C2 here in Canada, so the other week in CostCo when I walked past the endcap that has the 65C2 above the 77C2 I just knew it was time and I had to have it.

[Bcosta]

I have a C9 that drops hdmi signal at random. Is there anyone who knows a fix? Does LG offer a free panel replacement on these still or was that a myth?

[Hydra Spectre]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

At the same token, it you just leave everything alone for HDR10, you are sacrificing APL. From my understanding, LG TVs when tone mapping just looks at the Mastering Montior the movie was graded on and not the actual metadata. So, if the movie was mastered at 1,000 nits, the TV will lower the APL so that it can cover all of that. If the movie was mastered at 4,000 nits, it will lower the APL enough to cover that. Even if the highest HDR nit content on a disc is 500 nits and the mastering monitor was 4,000 nits, the TV will tone map it down to cover the 4,000 nits.

This is why I would turn DTM "On." And then of course if you have a Panasonic 4K Player with the HDR menu, you turn the Dynamic Range Adjustment slider down to -6 and that seems to balance things out a bit. That way you have the best of both worlds: A dynamic and properly tone mapped picture!

Apparently, DTM Off would set the TV's tonemap curve to 4000 nits. However, setting to HGiG would be like setting it to Off but setting the curve instead to 800 nits (for most LG OLEDs) or 1000 nits (for the G2).

Personally, I would just get the disc as a sort-of physical token that lets me legally own the film (like an NFT but actually physical and not stupidly expensive), and then procure a torrent that is a 1:1 rip of the 4K UHD but with Dolby Vision metadata spliced in from an online streaming copy.
These Dolby Vision spliced bootleg downloads exist online, and they look better than the actual discs for Dolby Vision TVs.
I won't tell you where to get them, though. Nothing personal, it's just the rules.

But your idea needs a Panasonic 4K UHD player specifically, so you're better off using DTM Off for a Sony UHD player or a game console for 4K UHD discs. That said, it does sound great, especially for HDR10+-only discs. The homebrew HDR10+ ripping software (as well as its HDR10+-to-Dolby Vision conversion feature) has some colour shift and is not 1:1 with the actual HDR10+ metadata. This is a Godsend for LG/Sony TV owners with a Panasonic 4K UHD player.

By the way, I wonder if the Panasonic 4K UHD players can convert SDR to HDR... I won't use that feature, though.
I'm looking to get a Japanese model specifically for the Master Grade Video Coding feature that is in Studio Ghibli's Blu-ray releases in Japan. Basically a poor man's HDR.
Now, I'm not sure if the Japanese models can be set to English. But MGVC is exclusive to Japanese models, and only the premium ones at that.
Unfortunately, none of the international Panasonic UHD players have MGVC support, even if you hack them or something.

Lastly, my preferred LG OLED settings are from Reddit's r/OLED_gaming community.
They made the ideal OLED settings for gaming, but can also be modified for watching video content.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by Hydra Spectre

Apparently, DTM Off would set the TV's tonemap curve to 4000 nits. However, setting to HGiG would be like setting it to Off but setting the curve instead to 800 nits (for most LG OLEDs) or 1000 nits (for the G2).

Personally, I would just get the disc as a sort-of physical token that lets me legally own the film (like an NFT but actually physical and not stupidly expensive), and then procure a torrent that is a 1:1 rip of the 4K UHD but with Dolby Vision metadata spliced in from an online streaming copy.
These Dolby Vision spliced bootleg downloads exist online, and they look better than the actual discs for Dolby Vision TVs.
I won't tell you where to get them, though. Nothing personal, it's just the rules.

But your idea needs a Panasonic 4K UHD player specifically, so you're better off using DTM Off for a Sony UHD player or a game console for 4K UHD discs. That said, it does sound great, especially for HDR10+-only discs. The homebrew HDR10+ ripping software (as well as its HDR10+-to-Dolby Vision conversion feature) has some colour shift and is not 1:1 with the actual HDR10+ metadata. This is a Godsend for LG/Sony TV owners with a Panasonic 4K UHD player.

By the way, I wonder if the Panasonic 4K UHD players can convert SDR to HDR... I won't use that feature, though.
I'm looking to get a Japanese model specifically for the Master Grade Video Coding feature that is in Studio Ghibli's Blu-ray releases in Japan. Basically a poor man's HDR.
Now, I'm not sure if the Japanese models can be set to English. But MGVC is exclusive to Japanese models, and only the premium ones at that.
Unfortunately, none of the international Panasonic UHD players have MGVC support, even if you hack them or something.

Lastly, my preferred LG OLED settings are from Reddit's r/OLED_gaming community.
They made the ideal OLED settings for gaming, but can also be modified for watching video content.

From my understanding though, HGIG was created specifically for gaming. Yes, it can work for films, but I can only see that working if you would be watching a 4K UHD movie on a gaming system like the PS5 or Xbox Series X.

I'm not really interested in the torrent stuff. Just seems like too much work when I have already everything I need with my Panasonic 820 and LG C9. It may not 100% like the Dolby Vision streams, but the majority of my movies that are just HDR10 that have Dolby Stream counterparts look about the same with how I have DTM "On" and the settings on my 820 set the way they are.

I don't think Panny players do SDR to HDR unless if it's for the streaming services that can be used through the player. Otherwise, HDR is HDR and SDR is SDR at all times. Personally, I think it's silly to convert SDR to HDR (see example YouTuber Quantum).

Ah, so your settings are from reddit. Nothing wrong with that however, I would still consider getting your set professionally calibrated. It's fantastic not having to worry about what settings should I have my brightness, contrast, etc. on. The only setting I mess with is DTM and making sure Real Cinema is "Off". I can't stand the stutter that comes with OLED TVs thanks to it's instantaneous pixel response time. Other than that, I don't adjust a thing.

My LG C9 is one of the most beautiful TVs I have ever owned!

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by Bcosta

I have a C9 that drops hdmi signal at random. Is there anyone who knows a fix? Does LG offer a free panel replacement on these still or was that a myth?

I would first start with looking at your HDMI cables. Some cables can drop signal. Then if it keeps doing that, then it's possible it's the TV panel.

I know for my C9, signal drops only when my Panasonic 820 is going into Dolby Vision mode. My understanding is that it's a handshake glitch that only happens for a few seconds.

[Hydra Spectre]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

From my understanding though, HGIG was created specifically for gaming. Yes, it can work for films, but I can only see that working if you would be watching a 4K UHD movie on a gaming system like the PS5 or Xbox Series X.

I'm not really interested in the torrent stuff. Just seems like too much work when I have already everything I need with my Panasonic 820 and LG C9. It may not 100% like the Dolby Vision streams, but the majority of my movies that are just HDR10 that have Dolby Stream counterparts look about the same with how I have DTM "On" and the settings on my 820 set the way they are.

I don't think Panny players do SDR to HDR unless if it's for the streaming services that can be used through the player. Otherwise, HDR is HDR and SDR is SDR at all times. Personally, I think it's silly to convert SDR to HDR (see example YouTuber Quantum).

Ah, so your settings are from reddit. Nothing wrong with that however, I would still consider getting your set professionally calibrated. It's fantastic not having to worry about what settings should I have my brightness, contrast, etc. on. The only setting I mess with is DTM and making sure Real Cinema is "Off". I can't stand the stutter that comes with OLED TVs thanks to it's instantaneous pixel response time. Other than that, I don't adjust a thing.

My LG C9 is one of the most beautiful TVs I have ever owned!

I personally prefer Real Cinema set to On.
If you don't want something that is as choppy as that, you can always turn on TruMotion, but set it to the more conservative setting of Cinematic Movement.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by Hydra Spectre

I personally prefer Real Cinema set to On.
If you don't want something that is as choppy as that, you can always turn on TruMotion, but set it to the more conservative setting of Cinematic Movement.

I would do that but Cinematic Movement is not an option on my LG C9. Cinematic Movement was first added by LG either on the CX or the C1. Turning on TruMotion would just add SOE to the picture.

[Kinsella5]

Originally Posted by dobyblue

Well I'm joining the ranks of LG owners. Just sold my TC-65EZ950C Panasonic 4K OLED that's done me very well since it replaced my TC-P60VT60 plasma and the new 77OLEDC2PUA arrives on Tuesday.

Congrats, I am about ready to make the jump (finally after a good long wait) to the LG C2 65" but have to hold off for about one more month. Already upgraded the Blu-ray collection to 4K, got the Panasonic 820 series player and ordering the cables below soon, and then the television. I seem to be doing things backwards, started that trend when Blu-ray first came onto the market from DVD back in the day.

Regarding the HDMI cables I was going to get these, I do game on the Series X hopefully these will work well with it as well as the 4K player and television mentioned above: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S1CGQ9Z...cm_wl_huc_item

[Hydra Spectre]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

I would do that but Cinematic Movement is not an option on my LG C9. Cinematic Movement was first added by LG either on the CX or the C1. Turning on TruMotion would just add SOE to the picture.

Well, you’re SOL on that one.
I recommend getting an upgrade if you also want some other features such as Dolby Vision IQ (AI Brightness Settings for DV), Dolby Vision in 4K120, AMD FreeSync Premium, less input lag and more. Or if your TV now has wear and tear.
The newer OLEDs also have better-looking sharpening filters. They would be great for sub-4K content, especially Nintendo Switch games. The older LG OLEDs have awful artificial sharpening that may as well be turned off, but the newer models are much better with sharpening, to the point that they could be used tastefully.

Still, the Real Cinema option was added to reduce jitter in the first place.
TVs usually operate in 60Hz for 24Hz signals, and 60 is not a multiple of 24. But True Cinema plays 24Hz in 120Hz, duplicating each frame 5 times, since 24*5=120.

But if you don’t like the True Cinema option, then that’s okay.
I wonder if LG would also add TrueCut Motion support for their TVs in the future, like what TCL is planning.

I also wish Panasonic can include an HDR Converter/Transcoder/Translator/whatever feature for their future UHD players. Something that can translate HDR10+ to Dolby Vision (and maybe vice versa too, albeit with compromises for that one).
It would be a godsend for LG and Sony users.

P.S: The Reddit settings are good for me since they have gaming and video variants.
And I prefer DTM Off for HDR10-only streams outside the Panasonic UHD player.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by Hydra Spectre

Well, you’re SOL on that one.
I recommend getting an upgrade if you also want some other features such as Dolby Vision IQ (AI Brightness Settings for DV), Dolby Vision in 4K120, AMD FreeSync Premium, less input lag and more. Or if your TV now has wear and tear.
The newer OLEDs also have better-looking sharpening filters. They would be great for sub-4K content, especially Nintendo Switch games. The older LG OLEDs have awful artificial sharpening that may as well be turned off, but the newer models are much better with sharpening, to the point that they could be used tastefully.

Still, the Real Cinema option was added to reduce jitter in the first place.
TVs usually operate in 60Hz for 24Hz signals, and 60 is not a multiple of 24. But True Cinema plays 24Hz in 120Hz, duplicating each frame 5 times, since 24*5=120.

But if you don’t like the True Cinema option, then that’s okay.
I wonder if LG would also add TrueCut Motion support for their TVs in the future, like what TCL is planning.

I also wish Panasonic can include an HDR Converter/Transcoder/Translator/whatever feature for their future UHD players. Something that can translate HDR10+ to Dolby Vision (and maybe vice versa too, albeit with compromises for that one).
It would be a godsend for LG and Sony users.

P.S: The Reddit settings are good for me since they have gaming and video variants.
And I prefer DTM Off for HDR10-only streams outside the Panasonic UHD player.

Honestly, I think keeping Real Cinema "Off" isn't that bad. The only evident judder that I see with the picture is with the credits at the end of a film. Otherwise, thanks to the fluid motion of a 120 Hz panel, camera motion is pretty smooth especially since I have 24p turned "On" on my Panny 820.

As to upgrading, my TV isn't even 3 years old yet. Plus, most of the features you listed are just either gaming features or extras things that don't really need to be turned "On" like Dolby Vision IQ. You don't need to have that on. It's just extra, like TruMotion or other settings like that.

There is also no point in translating things to Dolby Vision or HDR10. A lot could go wrong in that translation to where it won't turn out right. HDR10 + is similar to Dolby Vision so why would someone want to convert that. It's just extra processing that is unnecessary. Plus, there are very few discs that are in HDR10+. There are so much more with Dolby Vision and regular HDR10.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Since people are on the topic of protecting their TVs, I was wondering if anyone had any advice as to how to protect your TV from a soon to be crawling/walking child? My daughter is getting close to crawling and I know eventually she will be walking.

My C9 sits on a TV stand and can be easily reached if she would climb it or throw a toy at it. Is there anything I can do to protect it? I would assume Wall Mounting it might be a solution but I'm not 100% sure. Any advice would be helpful, lol!!

[Hydra Spectre]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

Honestly, I think keeping Real Cinema "Off" isn't that bad. The only evident judder that I see with the picture is with the credits at the end of a film. Otherwise, thanks to the fluid motion of a 120 Hz panel, camera motion is pretty smooth especially since I have 24p turned "On" on my Panny 820.

As to upgrading, my TV isn't even 3 years old yet. Plus, most of the features you listed are just either gaming features or extras things that don't really need to be turned "On" like Dolby Vision IQ. You don't need to have that on. It's just extra, like TruMotion or other settings like that.

There is also no point in translating things to Dolby Vision or HDR10. A lot could go wrong in that translation to where it won't turn out right. HDR10 + is similar to Dolby Vision so why would someone want to convert that. It's just extra processing that is unnecessary. Plus, there are very few discs that are in HDR10+. There are so much more with Dolby Vision and regular HDR10.

There are a handful of HDR10+-only 4K UHD discs. And they will fallback to HDR10 if the TV and/or player do not support HDR10+.
They will not look quite as good as they could in standard HDR10. But I think this HDR Optimiser + DTM combo setting of your would restore the qualities of the HDR10+ metadata.

Also, I don't look at the Reddit settings as gospel truth now, and I should tweak them depending on the content and/or the recommended settings.
For example, HGiG for Cyberpunk 2077 does not look quite as good as DTM On for the same game, and there is some black level raise.
GamingTech (which the Reddit settings recommend for HDR game settings) recommends to turn on DTM and to lower the TV's brightness setting from 50 to 49.

The Reddit settings also say to keep Gamma at 2.4 for SDR videos, but it doesn't look as good for the IMAX Enhanced Evangelion UHDs or Criterion's UHD release of In the Mood for Love, which were made with 2.2 gamma and BT.2020 in mind even in SDR.

[d3nt0n]

You really shouldn't be changing your settings depending on the content. You should calibrate to reference and just leave everything alone.

[oddbox83]

Originally Posted by d3nt0n

You really shouldn't be changing your settings depending on the content. You should calibrate to reference and just leave everything alone.

For movies and TV, absolutely. But you may want different day and night modes.

Games are more of a crapshoot. But then, you can use the dedicated game setting (which will come on automatically on TVs with ALLM), and have that different to the movie/tv modes.

[d3nt0n]

Originally Posted by oddbox83

Games are more of a crapshoot. But then, you can use the dedicated game setting (which will come on automatically on TVs with ALLM), and have that different to the movie/tv modes.

Just calibrate game mode as well.