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Go Back   Blu-ray Forum > Audio > Subwoofers


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Old 10-30-2019, 07:45 AM   #21
THE_FORCE THE_FORCE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmule View Post
That sucks to hear about your Fathoms. Personally, I unplug my subs when not in use, as that is the best way to prevent spikes and such. I also donít want to limit any current going to them and a lot of surge protectors will do exactly that. Never downgrade your subs unless absolutely necessary, as you will miss the effect if you do settle.
Cheers.

I couldnít see myself choosing another sub in reality, I just need to vent the frustration lol. I think Iím going to have to unplug them after every session. Slightly annoying but neccessary I think.
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Old 10-31-2019, 12:58 AM   #22
westom westom is offline
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I think I’m going to have to unplug them after every session.
Unplugging was never a reliable solution. Best is to not have destructive transients anywhere inside the house. Only something that does that 24/7/52 times a year is effective. Informed consumers properly earth a 'whole house' protector. If any sub needs protection, then so do so many less robust appliances.

What protects a dishwasher, clocks, furnace, dimmer switches, refrigerator, GFCIs, stove, LED & CFL bulbs, clock radios, central air, washing machine, and every smoke detector? Do you also unplug all them?

Best is to address the problem. A homeowner that does not connect a 'whole house' protector low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) to earth ground electrodes has all but invited that transient inside. To hunt for earth ground destructively via all appliances.

Damage is so routinely averted that damage is actually considered traceable to human mistakes.

Last edited by westom; 11-02-2019 at 11:51 PM.
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Old 12-14-2019, 07:58 AM   #23
THE_FORCE THE_FORCE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westom View Post
Unplugging was never a reliable solution. Best is to not have destructive transients anywhere inside the house. Only something that does that 24/7/52 times a year is effective. Informed consumers properly earth a 'whole house' protector. If any sub needs protection, then so do so many less robust appliances.

What protects a dishwasher, clocks, furnace, dimmer switches, refrigerator, GFCIs, stove, LED & CFL bulbs, clock radios, central air, washing machine, and every smoke detector? Do you also unplug all them?

Best is to address the problem. A homeowner that does not connect a 'whole house' protector low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) to earth ground electrodes has all but invited that transient inside. To hunt for earth ground destructively via all appliances.

Damage is so routinely averted that damage is actually considered traceable to human mistakes.
We did recently have our electricity chap come and do some work for us and I’ve now been informed that he installed a whole-home protection unit at the same time. Unfortunately, whole-home surge protectors don’t protect against brownouts, which is what I am fairly sure now was the cause of the main fuses blowing in both the subs.

Last edited by THE_FORCE; 12-14-2019 at 08:09 AM.
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Old 12-14-2019, 01:51 PM   #24
slimdude slimdude is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE_FORCE View Post
We did recently have our electricity chap come and do some work for us and I’ve now been informed that he installed a whole-home protection unit at the same time. Unfortunately, whole-home surge protectors don’t protect against brownouts, which is what I am fairly sure now was the cause of the main fuses blowing in both the subs.
Are you sure that you've had work done to your home that you probably didn't necessarily need, and have paid extra money for? Most modern homes are build with reset buttons into the electrical outlets, if a circuit has been tripped due to an overload or other electrical problem to prevent a fire. All surge protectors aren't guarantee to work because, nothing can stop an act of God as far as the weather is concern. If there is a severe storm, it's best just to turn off your TV and other home theater equipment that are on. If your electrical is up to code by a certified home inspector, then there's nothing to worry about.

Last edited by slimdude; 12-14-2019 at 09:45 PM.
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Old 12-15-2019, 12:10 PM   #25
oddbox83 oddbox83 is offline
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I add surge protection to the main equipment, though the sub is hived off on it's own power elsewhere by necessity and I don't bother. In my experience, the way a sub works faulty SPDIF cables are more likely to blow something in the sub. The loud bang the subs make when the connection is faulty is worrying. It didn't break mine when it happened but I'm surprised it didn't do damage.

My fuse box is a new one as well due to a lot of renovations in the house which gives me added peace of mind. The individual switches are designed to be softly self-sacrificial, they'll blow first but find the issue and switch it back on.
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Old 12-15-2019, 10:00 PM   #26
THE_FORCE THE_FORCE is offline
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Originally Posted by slimdude View Post
Are you sure that you've had work done to your home that you probably didn't necessarily need, and have paid extra money for? Most modern homes are build with reset buttons into the electrical outlets, if a circuit has been tripped due to an overload or other electrical problem to prevent a fire. All surge protectors aren't guarantee to work because, nothing can stop an act of God as far as the weather is concern. If there is a severe storm, it's best just to turn off your TV and other home theater equipment that are on. If your electrical is up to code by a certified home inspector, then there's nothing to worry about.
We live dead centre of a town that has just had a huge refurb..the electricity has gone on and off as a matter of course over the last two years due to all the works. Our RCD was constantly tripping, which is why we had the whole house protection unit installed (apparently).

No other appliances have ever been damaged...plasma or OLED tvs, power amps, av receivers, kitchen appliances big or small.

The only things that were affected were the JL Audio Fathoms. They’re on different power strips on opposite sides of the room too, so the circuitry is obviously extremely sensitive as this is now the second time they’ve been fried.

Last edited by THE_FORCE; 12-16-2019 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 12-17-2019, 12:11 AM   #27
westom westom is offline
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Unfortunately, whole-home surge protectors donít protect against brownouts, which is what I am fairly sure now was the cause of the main fuses blowing in both the subs.
Brownouts never cause a fuse to blow. Fuses do not trip due to low voltage. Fuses trip due to excessive currents for a long time.

Low voltage does not damage any electronics. It is only a threat to motorized appliances. So long ago - long before any of us existed - an AC utility routinely provided sufficient voltage or cut off power. Because motorized appliances needed protection even long before WWII.

Voltage can vary so much that incandescent bulbs dim to 50% intensity or double intensity. Even a voltage that low or high is good (safe) for all electronics. As defined by international design standards that existed long before the IBM PC existed.

However, did you have a brownout? Or does another anomaly exist due to missing or defective hardware? Do lights change intensity when a major appliance powers off or on? In most cases, that poor workmanship causes no damage. In rare cases, intensity changes are reporting a major human safety threat. That defect (actually multiple defects are necessary) might explain that damage.

Addressing other myths. That reset button in a receptacle does nothing of the kind. An overload has no relationship to the many other possible anomalies including a ground fault. There is no magic device that protects from all anomalies - except where wild speculation, emotions, or hearsay invent knowledge.

Many electricians do not understand this. A 'whole house' protector can be just as ineffective as plug-in ones IF not connected low impedance (ie no sharp wire bends or splices) to single point earth ground. That protector never protects anything. It is effective only because it connects low impedance (ie less than 3 meters) to what does protection - those electrodes.

New fuse box says nothing about protecting appliances. Electricians are taught code. Code only discusses issues that might threaten human life. Issues that protect appliances are not defined in code. Code does not even discuss or define low impedance. Impedance is a different parameter that defines appliance protection. And not from brownouts or blackouts. That is but a completely different and unrelated anomaly.
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