Official Yamaha Aventage Owner's Thread

[red_5ive]

RX-2A

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[JosephFek]

11

[PUsokrJosh305]

Was there any news at CES on Audio Receivers for this year?? I'm just curious if they will be fixing the HDMI 2.1 issues on last year's models or are they just going forward with this year's models for HDMI 2.1?

[beefytwinkie]

Serves me right for procrastinating and hoping to get a good deal on a 1080. None of the retailers around me have it in stock anymore and I am unable to locate anything online.

Oh well, it’s a sign for me to get the new ones! I will wait until all the kinks are worked out and then jump on it. Don’t want a repeat of this. First world problems, I know. LOL

[red_5ive]

Originally Posted by beefytwinkie

Serves me right for procrastinating and hoping to get a good deal on a 1080. None of the retailers around me have it in stock anymore and I am unable to locate anything online.

Oh well, it’s a sign for me to get the new ones! I will wait until all the kinks are worked out and then jump on it. Don’t want a repeat of this. First world problems, I know. LOL

I've never really found a good deal online for any of my Aventage units. I've always grabbed mine in-store. My prior units that were open-box (3020, 1020, and 1030) I paid 50% off MSRP at Best Buy, although that after the replacement models were released so they were willing to deal. The one exception was early last year I grabbed the CX-A5200 also from Best Buy for $1750 USD, which they price-matched from Amazon, but this one is more a specialty item. Not quite 50%, but still a deal nevertheless.

The trouble is, this time they didn't really follow the same release schedule, so it's hard to predict. I otherwise usually waltzed into BB around July/August and found those deals.

[beefytwinkie]

I believe Yamaha might utilise minimum advertised pricing for retailers. I did notice the 1080 was $875 in December 2019 but I missed that.

Part of me was hoping there was still stock around and the price might hit that low again somewhere near me so I've been driving around checking the local authorized retailers. No dice.

I was considering a Denon X3700H but I just prefer Yamaha since I've been using them for the better part of ten years.

[Scarriere]

Are you set on Aventage?
I got a RX-V1085 last year that I’m happy with.
Not having HDMI 2.1 isn’t an issue for me. Maybe for you though?

[red_5ive]

Originally Posted by beefytwinkie

I believe Yamaha might utilise minimum advertised pricing for retailers. I did notice the 1080 was $875 in December 2019 but I missed that.

Part of me was hoping there was still stock around and the price might hit that low again somewhere near me so I've been driving around checking the local authorized retailers. No dice.

I was considering a Denon X3700H but I just prefer Yamaha since I've been using them for the better part of ten years.

Whoops, you did say retailers. For some reason I thought you said online. As a last resort, I was going to suggest Accessories4less since they're an authorized Yamaha dealer and primarily deal in B-Stock at a discounted price, but even they've gotten a little pricey.

I'm with you on trying other brands. I've been sold on the Aventage line for nearly 10 years myself (first unit was a RX-A3010).

Hopefully a 1080 turns up for you, or even a 1085 like Scarriere suggested. It's essentially the same model just without the 5th foot and Aventage moniker.

[beefytwinkie]

Originally Posted by Scarriere

Are you set on Aventage?
I got a RX-V1085 last year that I’m happy with.
Not having HDMI 2.1 isn’t an issue for me. Maybe for you though?

Originally Posted by red_5ive

Whoops, you did say retailers. For some reason I thought you said online. As a last resort, I was going to suggest Accessories4less since they're an authorized Yamaha dealer and primarily deal in B-Stock at a discounted price, but even they've gotten a little pricey.

I'm with you on trying other brands. I've been sold on the Aventage line for nearly 10 years myself (first unit was a RX-A3010).

Hopefully a 1080 turns up for you, or even a 1085 like Scarriere suggested. It's essentially the same model just without the 5th foot and Aventage moniker.

I'm pretty set on going with an Aventage receiver. The reason is probably pretty dumb/weird.

Truth be told, I could probably do just fine with any receiver, really, as long as it has pre-outs but I've always just had entry-level gear so, for once, I'd like to just throw money at my next major purchase and see what it is all about to spend a few more bucks than just going for entry-level stuff.

I might be overspending or not making wise purchases for my needs but I'm just gonna do it.

On a side note: I checked around online and I do not see any 1085's available. It doesn't hurt to check it out so next time I'm around my local retailers, I'll see if there are any in stock to check out. Online, I only see them available in other countries (Canada, Australia, New Zealand) and the price, when converted to USD is really expensive.

[red_5ive]

Originally Posted by beefytwinkie

I'm pretty set on going with an Aventage receiver. The reason is probably pretty dumb/weird.

Not true. There's no dumb/weird reason to get an Aventage.

Truth be told, I could probably do just fine with any receiver, really, as long as it has pre-outs but I've always just had entry-level gear so, for once, I'd like to just throw money at my next major purchase and see what it is all about to spend a few more bucks than just going for entry-level stuff.

I might be overspending or not making wise purchases for my needs but I'm just gonna do it.

On a side note: I checked around online and I do not see any 1085's available. It doesn't hurt to check it out so next time I'm around my local retailers, I'll see if there are any in stock to check out. Online, I only see them available in other countries (Canada, Australia, New Zealand) and the price, when converted to USD is really expensive.

Those prices are outrages. Not to rub salt on the wound, but I got a 2085 for $400 cheaper than a 1080 during an Amazon sale. Normal selling price on the 2085 was nowhere near that much, and if memory serves it was closer to the 1080.

[beefytwinkie]

Whoa, I just looked up the sales order for my current Yamaha RX-V765. I ordered it from Newegg on January 2, 2010!

Holy cow. This thing is a beast and is still running like an absolute champ. I have it paired with an Emotiva XPA-5 and even DVD's sound phenomenal.

I think this is why I love Yamaha. Reliable with beautiful sound. The only thing is I don't have 4K but I suppose I'll live for now. I have a 2017 65" MU8000 Samsung television and it upscales 1080p just fine.

I appreciate all the information in this thread and definitely look forward to seeing their new products this year.

[jonam]

Anyone with the models that have angle measurement can you explain if the "boomerang" tool is connected after the mic has calibrated the 8 positions or is it used from the beginning of the setup all the way through?

Is the base of the 4th extension at ear height and is the microphone placed with the single end placed forward towards the screen?

Sorry for the questions as recently picked up the rx-a 3080 and the manual is not precisely clear.

[red_5ive]

Originally Posted by jonam

Anyone with the models that have angle measurement can you explain if the "boomerang" tool is connected after the mic has calibrated the 8 positions or is it used from the beginning of the setup all the way through?

Yes, the boomerang is used at the end to calibrate the angle and height measurement, which is after the main measurement. I attached the mic directly to my tri-pod for the main measurement, and at ear-height. Then, I used the boomerang and extension for the angle/height measurement.

Is the base of the 4th extension at ear height and is the microphone placed with the single end placed forward towards the screen?

Sorry for the questions as recently picked up the rx-a 3080 and the manual is not precisely clear.

The boomerang remains at the same level as the main measurement (so ear height) and is level (no angle toward the screen), thus the 4th position on the extension is above ear height. There is a tab on one end of the mic that inserts into each position on the boomerang as well as the extension to ensure the mic is in the correct position.

[jonam]

Originally Posted by red_5ive

Yes, the boomerang is used at the end to calibrate the angle and height measurement, which is after the main measurement. I attached the mic directly to my tri-pod for the main measurement, and at ear-height. Then, I used the boomerang and extension for the angle/height measurement.



The boomerang remains at the same level as the main measurement (so ear height) and is level (no angle toward the screen), thus the 4th position on the extension is above ear height. There is a tab on one end of the mic that inserts into each position on the boomerang as well as the extension to ensure the mic is in the correct position.

Thank You so much for your input. Also one other thing. I use the digital radio shack SPL meter to adjust the levels for the speakers and subwoofer. There is a max setting on it which reads the peak. Should I use that to do all speakers and subwoofer? Is the peak the reading used to calibrate to 75db for speakers and 85db for subwoofer?

[red_5ive]

Originally Posted by jonam

Thank You so much for your input. Also one other thing. I use the digital radio shack SPL meter to adjust the levels for the speakers and subwoofer. There is a max setting on it which reads the peak. Should I use that to do all speakers and subwoofer? Is the peak the reading used to calibrate to 75db for speakers and 85db for subwoofer?

I would only use the SPL after the auto-calibration to fine tune things, and measure avg SPL, C-weighted.

That said, this has been my experience on all my Aventage units, and in 2 different rooms:

1. Run auto-calibration
2. ***Once complete, set the crossover points for each speaker if needed.
3. Tweak with SPL.

***In reality, YPAO (particularly with all my Aventage units), almost always sets my main 5 speakers (FL, FR, C, SL, SR) to Large. So I set these back to small and then select my preferred crossover point. And from there, run SPL. Note that I do this with the Pattern 1 for movies, and I then set Pattern 2 to Large for my mains as I don't like using a sub for music.

As for tweaking with the SPL, if you're using multi-position calibration, I'd be careful of making too drastic adjustments from the main listening position as it could affect the other listening positions. If things seem way off balance from the MLP, then maybe re-run the auto-calibration. Otherwise if it's just a single-position calibration, tweak to your heart's content. I use 75 db for speakers and sub, but I ended up bumping the level trim on the sub +6db to get it to sound right.

[jonam]

Originally Posted by red_5ive

I would only use the SPL after the auto-calibration to fine tune things, and measure avg SPL, C-weighted.

That said, this has been my experience on all my Aventage units, and in 2 different rooms:

1. Run auto-calibration
2. ***Once complete, set the crossover points for each speaker if needed.
3. Tweak with SPL.

***In reality, YPAO (particularly with all my Aventage units), almost always sets my main 5 speakers (FL, FR, C, SL, SR) to Large. So I set these back to small and then select my preferred crossover point. And from there, run SPL. Note that I do this with the Pattern 1 for movies, and I then set Pattern 2 to Large for my mains as I don't like using a sub for music.

As for tweaking with the SPL, if you're using multi-position calibration, I'd be careful of making too drastic adjustments from the main listening position as it could affect the other listening positions. If things seem way off balance from the MLP, then maybe re-run the auto-calibration. Otherwise if it's just a single-position calibration, tweak to your heart's content. I use 75 db for speakers and sub, but I ended up bumping the level trim on the sub +6db to get it to sound right.

Thanks for this, very informative, so average measurement for subwoofer too?,and not Max?

Pattern 2 has no room EQ. Are you saying copy pattern 1 from calibration over to pattern 2 before using?

Once again a big thumbs up. This rx-3080 gives me total different readings for my subwoofer, gives me an extra 5db then my previous rx-870 I had.

This is a much more premium AV receiver. I have a very small living room and with dial norm for subwoofer on the back at 12 o'clock and 11 o'clock I've had to go -10 on level for the sub, this at 85db and 80db respectively after spl max readings for subwoofer. Both gave me -0.5 and +0.5 after room correction with a max of 90+dB readings for my Klipsch subwoofer!

I may have to try 10'oclock to get that middle ground between 0db down to -10.

Loving it though.

By the way why does Yamaha always calibrate to 78db for all speakers instead of 75db?

[red_5ive]

Originally Posted by jonam

Thanks for this, very informative, so average measurement for subwoofer too?,and not Max?

Yes, I use average and same weighting for sub as well.

Pattern 2 has no room EQ. Are you saying copy pattern 1 from calibration over to pattern 2 before using?

Yes, sorry for the oversight. Copy Pattern 1 to 2, and then tweak 2 as needed. It's nice to have the extra room to make changes because I prefer to keep Pattern 1 as "set it and forget" and Pattern 2 for more customized settings if I want to drastically change or test things based on Pattern 1.

Once again a big thumbs up. This rx-3080 gives me total different readings for my subwoofer, gives me an extra 5db then my previous rx-870 I had.

This is a much more premium AV receiver. I have a very small living room and with dial norm for subwoofer on the back at 12 o'clock and 11 o'clock I've had to go -10 on level for the sub, this at 85db and 80db respectively after spl max readings for subwoofer. Both gave me -0.5 and +0.5 after room correction with a max of 90+dB readings for my Klipsch subwoofer!

I may have to try 10'oclock to get that middle ground between 0db down to -10.

Loving it though.

I have the same issue with my main room, although with all speakers and not just sub. I tried different things like recalibrating at 72 db, but I just wasn't satisfied with the results. I also prefer to keep my sub between 12 o'clock and 2 o'clock. What I ended up doing is setting the input volume for each input to their minimum (which was -6) and saving each to a scene. I thought that this might impact the sound (like attenuating a line-level input signal), but that's not what is actually happening and so far it sounds fine.

This is just another reason why I love Aventage and Yamaha in general. It's a tweaker's dream.

[jonam]

Originally Posted by red_5ive

Yes, I use average and same weighting for sub as well.



Yes, sorry for the oversight. Copy Pattern 1 to 2, and then tweak 2 as needed. It's nice to have the extra room to make changes because I prefer to keep Pattern 1 as "set it and forget" and Pattern 2 for more customized settings if I want to drastically change or test things based on Pattern 1.



I have the same issue with my main room, although with all speakers and not just sub. I tried different things like recalibrating at 72 db, but I just wasn't satisfied with the results. I also prefer to keep my sub between 12 o'clock and 2 o'clock. What I ended up doing is setting the input volume for each input to their minimum (which was -6) and saving each to a scene. I thought that this might impact the sound (like attenuating a line-level input signal), but that's not what is actually happening and so far it sounds fine.

This is just another reason why I love Aventage and Yamaha in general. It's a tweaker's dream.

Any idea why Yamaha always calibrate speaker levels to 78db during room correction?

[red_5ive]

Originally Posted by jonam

Any idea why Yamaha always calibrate speaker levels to 78db during room correction?

Not familiar with that in particular where Yamaha is concerned. Was there any specific context where that is stated, or is it more a blanket statement? And was it in the manual?

Otherwise, if I had to guess based on context, +2 to +3 db is somewhat of a defacto to increase a channel level by if it isn't up to snuff (e.g., center channel, and it's not uncommon to run a sub +3 db hot over calibrated levels).

[jonam]

Originally Posted by red_5ive

Not familiar with that in particular where Yamaha is concerned. Was there any specific context where that is stated, or is it more a blanket statement? And was it in the manual?

Otherwise, if I had to guess based on context, +2 to +3 db is somewhat of a defacto to increase a channel level by if it isn't up to snuff (e.g., center channel, and it's not uncommon to run a sub +3 db hot over calibrated levels).

So your speakers are not calibrated to 78db? Checking with your SPL what readings did yours show before calibrating down to 75db. Everywhere I've read on forums we understand that Yamaha tends to set speakers to large depending on the positioning of the microphone for my case. Sometimes I get three to small and the rest to large. All depending I suppose on the room acoustics. Also most people have their speakers to 78db after post room correction.

One other thing I notice with this 3080 is that there seems to be a longer handshake concern then my 870 had. I have some mp3 files backed up on my PC which is passed through my amp via the TV but when I switch off the TV the music stops playing and does not continue. Did not happen with my 870.

I have HDMI control on and have tried all other settings but to no avail. This is through the windows media player. Occasionally once or twice it continues playback but usually cuts off when the TV is switched off.

Definitely digging this 3080 so far.