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#1 |
Senior Member
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Since I'm having a try at building my own speaker stands today, I figured I'd make a guide for those who are wanting to do the same thing, and at the same time, save money.
Now I wanted to make a set of stands for my two bookshelf speakers. I was curious about design, and after looking online to see what others had done, I decided I wanted to do this design: ![]() So from there, I embarked out to Home Depot, and picked up these supplies: ![]() (2) 10"x10" plank, 1.5" thick (used for top) (2) 12"x12" plank, 1.5" thick (used for bottom) (2) 3" wide 2' tall PVC pipes (1) Can of wood stain (finish, color choice is up to you, I chose Colonial Maple 223) (1) Rustoleum Painter's Touch spray paint, semi-gloss black (4) Washers (4) Nuts, size depends on rod size of choice (1) Threaded rod The supplies cost me $35 dollars. Now here is a diagram of the design explained: ![]() The rod will go from the bottom plank through the PVC pipe, to the bottom of the top plank through the top. There will be a nut with a washer on the top plank, and at the bottom plank, which will tighten the boards to the surfaces of the PVC pipe. I didn't even think of this method until I went to Home Depot, the people there were very courteous and I brought in a picture of the stand above, they guided me through everything, and cut the planks to the size I needed (note you can't buy these planks in this size, and have to buy a huge plank 8 or more feet long and get them cut, at least that's what they told me there). Let's get started with our planks, and our wood finish of choice. ![]() Pop the top off, and take a look at your finish. Shake up the can before you begin working on the wood. This particular finish is very thin, and is almost like water. I decided to use a foam brush to apply the finish. ![]() As stated by the finish directions, go in the direction of the grain. Remember, a little goes a long way, after each coat, wait about 20 minutes and then have at it again. Once you get the coats you want, you can even wait a few hours and do another coat to have it even darker. Here is my plank after one coat: ![]() Comparison of coated plank to blank plank: ![]() *Note, some might have to sand their wood before applying finish, however, I didn't have to because my wood surface was already very smooth. From here, you want to keep applying coats. Usually 2-3 is the norm, but you can add more if you want a darker color. Here is the plank after it's second finish: ![]() While I let the second coat dry, I made my way to the PVC pipe. Lay out newspaper, and make sure you have ventilation, I did this in the garage with the door open. This is where the spray paint comes into play. First coat wants to be a light coat, not too much, so it might look blochy. ![]() Then once you let that dry in about 10 minutes, finish it off with a medium second coat. Here is the result: ![]() Then once that dries, turn over, and do the same to the other side. Both PVC pipes done side by side: ![]() After that, I finished up the final (ish) coats of the finish. Here are the planks finished (I might add one more heavier coat here in a few): ![]() Mock-up of the stand with other planks I had left over with finished PVC pipe: ![]() And all of my supplies finished and ready for assembly: ![]() Now comes assembly. Once everything is dry, on the planks you're using, draw a point in the middle with a sharpie or marker, this is where you'll be drilling holes. You can also make a circle on the bottom planks that are the circumference of your PVC if you need a guide, like I did. ![]() I accidentally drew circles on the top and bottom planks. ![]() ![]() Once you drill the hole, get a bigger bit, so we can drill another hole. I used a 1" bit as you can see on the left. Now, drill in the middle where the other hole went, but don't go all the way through. Go about 1/4-1/2" inch down. Here is what mine looked like: ![]() ![]() And both top planks done: ![]() Now we get to do the same to the bottom planks. Make a point that indicates the middle, and drill through. Now remember the 1" bit I used, this time we're going to do the same thing, but on the bottom of the plank. It will look like this: ![]() Once you're done, time for assembly. Cut the rod to whichever length you needed it, which in my case, was 27". Now we're going to slide the rod through, and then stick a washer and nut in there, it will look like this: ![]() Now stick the PVC pipe on there, and figure out where the middle is, or line it up over your circle indicator if you drew one: ![]() Grab your top plank, and slide it through the rod to place it over the PVC pipe. Grab another washer and nut, put them on and hand tighten it, it should look like this: ![]() From there, grab 2 sockets that are the size of your nut, and lay your stand horizontally. Put one socket on one side, but hold it in place, and tighten the other one that's in the other hand. Make sure you watch the PVC pipe, you might have to have someone else hold it in place because it might slide down. Once you start tightening, you will notice that they are "fusing" together, pretty much like a suction cup. Once you do that, you are set. Check back over all of your work, and you are done! Here is the final product: ![]() ![]() I decided to put some adhesive liner on the top so my speaker has some grip. And now for the most important part, here is what it looks like with a speaker on it: ![]() I hope you enjoyed this guide, and I hoped it was helpful to you. I encourage everybody to give this a shot, save yourself some money, and learn about building while doing it. Just to give you an idea of difficulty level, I've never worked with wood before and this is how I did. Have fun, guys! ![]() -Matt Last edited by GotToyota?; 03-17-2009 at 08:44 PM. |
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Thanks given by: |
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#4 |
Blu-ray Ninja
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Please update this! I'm definitely interested in seeing how they turn out. I'm not very handy so something simple like this is something I might do myself.
One thing I thought about- since you already have a hollow tube in the PVC, why not run the speaker wire inside it? You could probably drill holes into the two pieces of wood and run the wire up through there. If you got really fancy you could maybe cut some kind of groove along the bottom piece so that it could sit level. Alternatively you could drill a hole at the bottom of the PVC, run the cable up inside it and then drill a hole in the wooden top piece. Just a thought. Thanks for this. |
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#5 | |
Blu-ray Guru
May 2006
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#6 | |
Senior Member
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-Matt |
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Thanks given by: | Heresy80 (11-21-2016) |
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#7 |
Blu-ray Guru
May 2006
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meant it more that you wouldn't have an update yet. he replied within 20 mins asking for more. i was just saying it would prob take more time than that
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#10 | |||
Senior Member
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I believe he told me to get the middle rod because instead of drilling into the base with a circle, I drill a smaller hole, and the rod will actually hold everything together. I didn't think of it at first, either. -Matt |
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#12 |
Expert Member
Mar 2008
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Tight i might have to try!
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#13 |
Blu-ray Guru
Mar 2008
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Thanks Matt. Very nice looking. An excellent design. An attractive project for anybody.
I wish to make a minor comment. I would add few sand bags to the bottom of the stand inside the PVC tubes. I will seal sand in plastic bags so that it wouldn't leak. This will add to the weight and also to the stability of the stand. I would add metal spikes to the stand but some people may not like it. |
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#14 | |
Active Member
Apr 2008
MI
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With the price of speaker stands, that certainly is a great idea! |
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#16 |
Blu-ray Guru
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Great job on the stands
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#17 |
Banned
Mar 2008
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Great Stuff Mate.
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#19 |
Senior Member
Feb 2008
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Nice, I'm moving away from here shortly, and I was thinking of ways to set up my speakers. I had wanted to get speaker stands. I was thinking, how much could they be? I was shocked. This is a much better alternative, and I can paint them how I want them to look. This is great! Thanks.
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#20 |
Moderator
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I used two Tappered legged plant stands that were built (special tappering bit) and stained, and the opening with small shelf was just the right size to squeeze in the speakers. When I moved my 705s (other picture) to the back, they remained on the outrageously over-priced stands I got for them
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