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Old 10-09-2009, 11:29 PM   #1
browndk26 browndk26 is offline
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I have some 12x12 inch tiles left over from a bathroom remodel. Will it help the sound any if I put one under my Sony sub? How does elevating a sub on a riser help the sound from a sub?
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:44 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by browndk26 View Post
I have some 12x12 inch tiles left over from a bathroom remodel. Will it help the sound any if I put one under my Sony sub? How does elevating a sub on a riser help the sound from a sub?
Putting just the tile under the sub will not help anything . You need to get the sub up off the floor at least 6 to 8 inches or more . 2 feet is optimal for A room with an 8 foot ceiling .

The riser needs to have carpet on top to help with absorbing & it needs foam underneath as well . Doing this will help it not sounding boomy & it will sound more natural !
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Old 10-10-2009, 12:05 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyBLUE View Post
Putting just the tile under the sub will not help anything . You need to get the sub up off the floor at least 6 to 8 inches or more . 2 feet is optimal for A room with an 8 foot ceiling .

The riser needs to have carpet on top to help with absorbing & it needs foam underneath as well . Doing this will help it not sounding boomy & it will sound more natural !
Thanks!
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Old 10-10-2009, 01:26 AM   #4
solarrdadd solarrdadd is offline
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here are a couple of things i don't understand. folks are stuffing their speakers and subs and raising them up on stands and such off of the floor, ok. why aren't these things being done or recommended by the makers of these products if they work so well? mind you, i'm not saying they don't work well either. i'm saying why don't the engineers who designed these things have it done at their level for the products if all of these things so dramatically increase the quality of the sound and effectiveness of their products? aren't they missing out on money that they could be charging for these "improvements" ? mind you i've not stuffed or raised any speaker or sub so i'm putting it out there for those who have or are thinking of doing it.

have at it people!
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Old 10-10-2009, 01:47 AM   #5
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For one, raising a subwoofer in of itself is not something any manufacturer does that I'm aware of. There could be many issues with mass producing risers. Stuffing a subwoofer has its risks too such as fire hazards or damaging a subwoofer driver if it gets caught in the voice coil or something. There are small risks that prevent manufacturers from adding these small tweaks that would be added headaches to the company. Also for the riser, most manufacturers focus their attention on aesthetics of subwoofers and the mainstream market who need subs with the WAF. Some manufacturers do include certain amounts of Poly-fill but generally all subwoofers and many speakers would benefit from some sort of extra isolation and stuffing. Many subwoofer manufacturers also focus on the bottom line which is using the least money to make a product with the biggest profit margin.
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Old 10-10-2009, 02:12 AM   #6
solarrdadd solarrdadd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driver_King View Post
For one, raising a subwoofer in of itself is not something any manufacturer does that I'm aware of. There could be many issues with mass producing risers. Stuffing a subwoofer has its risks too such as fire hazards or damaging a subwoofer driver if it gets caught in the voice coil or something. There are small risks that prevent manufacturers from adding these small tweaks that would be added headaches to the company. Also for the riser, most manufacturers focus their attention on aesthetics of subwoofers and the mainstream market who need subs with the WAF. Some manufacturers do include certain amounts of Poly-fill but generally all subwoofers and many speakers would benefit from some sort of extra isolation and stuffing. Many subwoofer manufacturers also focus on the bottom line which is using the least money to make a product with the biggest profit margin.
oh i agree, i asked because i hear so much of it on the site. i think at times everyother post on the polk audio is (or was at one point) about stuffing something into speakers or subs or raising and like i said how come it doesn't just come that way if it has such a profound impact on the product? first i'm lazy like that and second i don't want to take any chances with my stuff, doing anything to it that might void any warrenty, risk damage to it or to my house i.e. fire (not saying any of these things will happen) i just don't want to take any chances. for me my speakers and sub sounds great just the way they are. i really wanted to get others feedback that are for (having done it or not) or against (having done it or not) and why they are on either side of the fence. i want to learn more, isn't that what we are supposed to be doing here!
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Old 10-10-2009, 02:21 AM   #7
Driver_King Driver_King is offline
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For some Polk products fortunately, they include a small amount of fill. The fire-hazard is not really an issue if you get the fire-retardant kind. It is not likely that anything would get caught in the drivers or speakers either. That is just a possibility that some manufacturers could face if not properly executed.
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Old 10-10-2009, 04:46 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solarrdadd View Post
oh i agree, i asked because i hear so much of it on the site. i think at times everyother post on the polk audio is (or was at one point) about stuffing something into speakers or subs or raising and like i said how come it doesn't just come that way if it has such a profound impact on the product? first i'm lazy like that and second i don't want to take any chances with my stuff, doing anything to it that might void any warrenty, risk damage to it or to my house i.e. fire (not saying any of these things will happen) i just don't want to take any chances. for me my speakers and sub sounds great just the way they are. i really wanted to get others feedback that are for (having done it or not) or against (having done it or not) and why they are on either side of the fence. i want to learn more, isn't that what we are supposed to be doing here!
All I know is that I built one for mine (see gallery) and the sound improved vastly. I have fuller and cleaner bass.
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Old 10-10-2009, 09:07 AM   #9
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i also made a riser for my hd-10 and i was impressed how much better it sound. it also packed more punch. i felt i was being robbed when i was wiatching transformers scene when ironhide flips, everyone was said it great scene for the sub. but as i was watching it i was not impressed. after i build the tower i was much happier. i almost regret buying the hd-10, the project cost maybe 30 at most. you can also check my gallery i took pics of the steps. hope this help.
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Old 10-10-2009, 12:07 PM   #10
hagar852 hagar852 is offline
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Here is a sub riser I built so my neighbors downstairs won't kill me



Here is the side view of some of the materials I used. The bottom foam was from a package that was sent, and is that thick packing foam. That little piece of leaf is from the outside where I painted it with gloss black.

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Old 10-10-2009, 09:42 PM   #11
Yeha-Noha Yeha-Noha is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solarrdadd View Post
oh i agree, i asked because i hear so much of it on the site. i think at times everyother post on the polk audio is (or was at one point) about stuffing something into speakers or subs or raising and like i said how come it doesn't just come that way if it has such a profound impact on the product? first i'm lazy like that and second i don't want to take any chances with my stuff, doing anything to it that might void any warrenty, risk damage to it or to my house i.e. fire (not saying any of these things will happen) i just don't want to take any chances. for me my speakers and sub sounds great just the way they are. i really wanted to get others feedback that are for (having done it or not) or against (having done it or not) and why they are on either side of the fence. i want to learn more, isn't that what we are supposed to be doing here!
That's exactly where I'm at. I have read and participated in many of these discussions viewed from both sides of the fence. So, for now like you, I am sitting on the side lines, but perhaps just a tad more critical or skeptical.

I can say this. I have a pair of Premier Acoustics PA-120s (12 in subs). All I did was put a pad of neoprene rubber one inch thick under each sub. I have ceramic tile floors. I did that to keep the speakers from vibrating everything in the house. It worked too and I gained a cleaner, tighter, punchier bass sound. I love it. I'm skeptical about raising them up higher like 6 to 8 inches and get my wife all upset too for little or no gain. That's just me. I'm not saying others aren't getting breathtaking increases in performance. I'm just skeptical or critical that it can happen in my HT room.
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Old 10-11-2009, 12:37 AM   #12
progers13 progers13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwojtalewicz View Post
That's exactly where I'm at. I have read and participated in many of these discussions viewed from both sides of the fence. So, for now like you, I am sitting on the side lines, but perhaps just a tad more critical or skeptical.

I can say this. I have a pair of Premier Acoustics PA-120s (12 in subs). All I did was put a pad of neoprene rubber one inch thick under each sub. I have ceramic tile floors. I did that to keep the speakers from vibrating everything in the house. It worked too and I gained a cleaner, tighter, punchier bass sound. I love it. I'm skeptical about raising them up higher like 6 to 8 inches and get my wife all upset too for little or no gain. That's just me. I'm not saying others aren't getting breathtaking increases in performance. I'm just skeptical or critical that it can happen in my HT room.
Where did you get the neoprene rubber pads?
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Old 10-11-2009, 12:59 AM   #13
Big Daddy Big Daddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solarrdadd View Post
oh i agree, i asked because i hear so much of it on the site. i think at times everyother post on the polk audio is (or was at one point) about stuffing something into speakers or subs or raising and like i said how come it doesn't just come that way if it has such a profound impact on the product? first i'm lazy like that and second i don't want to take any chances with my stuff, doing anything to it that might void any warrenty, risk damage to it or to my house i.e. fire (not saying any of these things will happen) i just don't want to take any chances. for me my speakers and sub sounds great just the way they are. i really wanted to get others feedback that are for (having done it or not) or against (having done it or not) and why they are on either side of the fence. i want to learn more, isn't that what we are supposed to be doing here!
Remember that no one is forcing you to add a riser or polyfill to your subwoofer. However, there are good scientific reasons for these tweaks and other companies actually sell them.

Many people report better bass response by raising their subwoofers. One of the most popular products for this purpose is the Auralex Isolation Risers Gramma & Great Gramma, Subdude, and SubdudeHD. According to Auralex, Gramma stands for Gig and Recording, Amp and Monitor, Modulation Attenuator.

Gramma Specifications:
23" long x 15" wide x 2.75" high
Weight Limit: 300lbs.
Market Price: $50




Great Gramma Specifications:
30" long x 19" wide x 2.75" high
Weight Limit: 300lbs.
Market Price: $80




Subdude:
15” x 15” x 2 3/4”
Market Price: $50




Subdude HD:
15" x 15" x 2.5"
Market Price: $60




Where to Buy
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/GRAMMA
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/GreatGRAMMA/
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SubDude
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SubDudeHD/

Reviews:
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...ma-4-2004.html
http://namm.harmony-central.com/WNAM...at-GRAMMA.html
http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-GRAMMA...owViewpoints=1
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/GRAMMA/reviews/
http://www.zzounds.com/productreview--AURGRAMMA


How High a Riser?


Theoretically, if your ceiling is 8ft high, you can go up to 2 feet. However, when you raise it that high, you should really fill the gap under the riser with dampening foam. Take a look at these SubTraps from ASC.



18” SubTrap (50 Hz) Standard, most Subwoofers: $469
22” SubTrap (30 Hz) Large Subwoofer: $586
http://www.asc-home-theater.com/subtrap.htm

Quote:
Once you hear the difference, you’ll never go back. The SubTrap is more than a simple isolation stand. In addition to isolation, it absorbs excess bass and decouples your sub-woofer from room mode. The end result is a unique product available only from ASC. Raise your subwoofer up to its full performance potential. Just slip the ASC-SubTrap underneath your subwoofer and you’ll create the powerful “SubStack.” Instantly improve bass detail, changing “muddy” low frequency playback into a richly detailed picture. Not only does the SubTrap increase bass extension and punch, it also gets rid of "one note bass.
Quote:
By raising the sub off the floor and putting a SubTrap under it, the subwoofer is effectively decoupled from the vertical room mode. Excess bass buildup is reduced and the playback volume of the subwoofer can be cranked up much higher than before.
Reviews:
http://hometheaterhifi.com/volume_12...ap-6-2005.html
http://www.stereophile.com/musicinth...ic/index1.html

Theoretical Foundation Behind Risers

The sound waves interact with the room boundaries (walls, floor, and ceiling) and create standing waves or room modes. The standing waves are different between floor and ceiling, side walls, and end walls, unless any of these dimensions are the same (the worst kind of room is a perfect cube). There are three basic types of modes: axial, tangential, and oblique. Examples of these modes are shown in the following diagrams:




Axial Modes are the strongest and the most important, and the easiest to compute. Tangential Modes are about half as loud, and Oblique Modes are about a quarter as loud. They tend to be the least important, but if an oblique room mode occurs near another mode, that frequency may still be a problem.

If you look at the diagrams, you will notice that there are basically two types of axial modes: horizontal and vertical. Almost every person who owns a subwoofer discovers that room placement plays an important role. In reality, by moving the subwoofer around, you are dealing with the horizontal axial mode. Unfortunately, subwoofers do not understand horizontal or vertical. These classifications are in our heads. As far as subwoofers are concerned, waves are waves. We need to deal with vertical axial modes exactly the same way we dealt with horizontal axial mode, but how can we do that as Sir Isaac Newton and gravity work against us. There are two options: put the subwoofer on a riser or hang it from the ceiling and get shot by the wife in the process.

Rule of Thumb:
  • An average home in the U.S. has a ceiling about 8ft high.
  • Rule of 25: It is normally a good idea to put the sub approximately up to 25% away from the boundaries. For a riser, it means ceiling & floor.
  • 8ft x 0.25 = 2ft.
  • Raise your subwoofer approximately 2ft or less. You can also try to hang it 2ft away from the ceiling, but do it at your own risk. The WAF is waiting.

Rule of 25:

The low frequency sound waves generated by subwoofers interact with room boundaries and create standing waves (pressure zones). These ressure zones are spread out and not pinpoint-sized. For all practical purposes, the subwoofer should be located at least 25 percent away from the room boundaries to best avoid stimulating any of its first three harmonics. There is no location towards the middle of the room that suits a subwoofer position, as the pressure zones there are overlapping.

Many people have done years of research at the National Research Council of Canada and at Harmon International under the guidance of Dr. Floyd Toole (currently, a Vice President at Harmon).

The 25% Subwoofer Positioning: This solution is suggested by Todd Welti at Harmon International:

Quote:
You shrink the whole room by 25% and put the subwoofers at the corners of that virtual room. Of course you get incredible performance, but that is not practical for most people. But if you use two or four subwoofers in the corners or the wall midpoints, you can get pretty good performance.

Last edited by Big Daddy; 10-11-2009 at 02:51 AM.
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Old 10-11-2009, 12:59 AM   #14
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It is not true that manufacturers do not add polyfill to their subwoofers and speakers. Many high-end manufacturers do. I bought a 15" DBX sealed subwoofer in 1989-1990. It had a layer of polyfill inside the cabinet. In 1998, I bought two 12" Hsu cylindrical ported subwoofers. They were fully stuffed with polyfill. Even my relatively inexpensive 12" Acoustic Audio ported subwoofer had its interior covered with polyfill. Moreover, companies like Parts Express sell different types of cabinet damping material, including high-end polyfill.
http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...AT&srchCat=137

Generally speaking, adding polyfill requires large storage facility and is a relatively labor intensive activity. Manufacturers are too concerned about their bottom line and don't want to be bothered with a tweak that consumers can add with minimum hassle and expense. When I asked Elemental Designs to build a subwoofer box for my 15" Dayton Titanic driver, this is the respone I got from Brett Bell in one of his messages:

Quote:
Port Tuning with minimal to no stuffing will be just under 22 Hz, with medium to full stuffing you should be just under 20 Hz.
BENEFITS OF POLYFILL

Polyfill can deepen bass, tone down any unwanted reverberation, improve the dynamic extension, and will give you tighter and more accurate bass. It also helps to give a flatter frequency response to the overall sound. Besides this, it also helps reduce the vibration of the box, which results in less distortion and tricks a subwoofer into thinking it is in a bigger box. Damping also increases subwoofer efficiency.

It is a good idea to use sheet dampening material to cover the entire inner surface of the cabinet. A small amount of glue may help. The loose polyfill is good for filling the cabinet. The type of subwoofer (down-firing or front-firing) does not play a role.

Polyfill can have several positive effects:
  • It will dampen the cabinet.
  • You will hear less noise, particularly the noise associated with the flow of air through the port.
  • It will slow down the sound waves and makes the enclosure appear larger. When polyfill is added to an enclosure, it changes the behavior of the airflow in the enclosure from "adiabatic" to "isothermal". The term "adiabatic" means that there is no heat transfer occurring. An isothermal process means that as the air passes through the polyfill, the fibers wiggle and cause some of the energy created by the air to be dissipated as heat. This heats the surrounding air molecules warmer, causing the air to become less dense. Sound waves travel easier through a denser medium. As a result, the driver interacts with the enclosure as if it is larger than it actually is.
  • Larger cabinets are more efficient and as a result low frequency extension of the sub will be lowered. It will also lower the resonant frequency of the port.
Adding polyfill to an enclosure is a good idea. However, too much polyfill can be a bad thing. At a certain point, the stuffing becomes too dense and the fibers no longer wiggle. At this point, not only have you taken away the size benefit of adding polyfill, you have actually decreased the effective volume as the polyfill is now taking up room inside your enclosure. You should add anywhere between 1/2 pound to one pound of polyfill to one cubic feet of enclosure.

The following diagram from Basic Car Audio demonstrates the effect of polyfill on the frequency response of a subwoofer.



Quote:
Poly-fill can be used to make an enclosure seem slightly larger. It does this by slowing the movement of the air in the enclosure. This, in effect, smoothes the frequency response of the subwoofer's output and slightly improves its low frequency extension. This image shows, to what degree, it does both. The red line (no fill) has a slightly higher peak than the yellow line before it starts to roll off. The yellow line has a slightly improved low frequency extension when compared to the red line. The effect is not very dramatic but using poly-fill in this manner can sometimes make a subwoofer sound better. The red curve is has no poly-fill. The yellow line is 100% filled with poly-fill. 100% fill is equal to 1 pound of poly-fill per cubic foot of air space.
In any type of enclosure, the woofer relies, at least partly, on the enclosure for damping. If there is insufficient damping, the woofer’s cone will move significantly more than it should. The ported box will provide virtually no damping below the port frequency (all of the control will be provided by the woofer’s suspension). Below the port tuning frequency, it is possible to cause damage to the woofer well before power levels approach the maximum power ratings of the woofer.

Port tuning is not very complicated. The builder decides what the tuning should be, based on the type of applications (HT, music, or car) that the subwoofer is made for. A subwoofer for car audio is tuned high 35Hz-50Hz because most car audio enthusiasts are SPL junkies. Music subwoofers are tuned in the 25Hz to 35Hz range, and HT subwoofers are tuned below 25Hz. The tuned frequency of the port, usually a length of PVC pipe, depends on the two port parameters of area and length for a given enclosure/woofer combination.

By adding a port, the rear wave of the cone motion is used to reinforce the front wave. This typically results in a system with a higher efficiency (it plays louder with less power). The disadvantages of this design are lower power handling and poor response below the port tuning frequency.

At frequencies above the port tuning frequency, cone excursion will be very well controlled, and will actually be lower than that of a sealed enclosure, but at frequencies below the port tuning, as there is no internal box pressure to control excursion, the driver can easily reach its excursion limit with very little power. This is not a big issue with tuning frequencies down in the 20-25Hz range, because most content do not go that low. However, if the tuning is in the 35-40Hz or higher range, you will have the potential for significant content to be below your tuning. Cone excursion below the tuning frequency in a ported enclosure is very, very high, and can easily cause damage to the driver if it is not controlled. At frequencies below the tuning frequency of the port, a woofer starts to de-couple. This means that the controlling function of the enclosure begins to disappear. The collapse is gradual rather than immediate, but at some point below the tuning of the port, the speaker behaves as if it were operating without an enclosure and suffers from potentially damaging over-excursion. This is why it is a good practice to use an subsonic filter when running a ported enclosure. Some subwoofer amplifiers come with a subsonic filter, which block these lowest frequencies.

What happens if the box is too small?
If the box is too small, the bass will be slightly boomy with strong mid-bass and less low bass. Typically, power-handling is improved if the box is not too small. You can compensate somewhat for a small box volume by adding polyfill to the box. The stuffing can make the box appear up to 40% larger to the driver and will lower the tuned frequency.

A slightly lower tuning frequency will add a little more safety due to the driver not unloading below tuning frequency as soon. Polyfill provides this additional safety.

What happens if the box is too large?
Typically the low frequency extension of the system improves a little, at the expense of power handling. If the ported subwoofer is too large, there will be a response peak around the resonance frequency of the system that can easily be corrected with an equalizer.

As was stated earlier, polyfill has these three main effects on a subwoofer box:
  • It dampen the box and reduces the effect of back waves.
  • It makes the enclosure appear to be larger than it actually is.
  • It slightly lowers the tuning frequency of the ported subwoofer.

Pollyfill is a sound absorption dampening fiber that may deepen the sound and tone down any unwanted reverberation of any subwoofer. Contrary to all the nonsense that is repeated in most Internet forums, we do not have standing waves in a subwoofer box, particularly in HT applications. Assuming that the vast majority of subwoofers for home audio are crossed at 80Hz to 100Hz, you can imagine the stupidity of this claim. These are the approximate wavelengths of bass frequencies:

20Hz: 56.5ft
50Hz: 22.6ft
80Hz: 14.1ft
100Hz: 11.3ft

For standing waves to occur, we need a subwoofer that is the size of a room. How many of you have a subwoofer that big?

Polyfill affects both sealed and ported subwoofer boxes. As a general rule, polyfill has more benefit for small boxes and since most sealed boxes are smaller than ported boxes, it appears that sealed boxes are affected more.

In car audio, most people play bass-heavy music at loud volumes and the subwoofers are tuned at a higher frequency for maximum SPL. They are more concerned about loudness.

In home audio, most people care about the quality of audio for HT and music applications. Most HT subwoofers are tuned lower for better low frequency extension.

This is from Ultimate Polyfill Subwoofer Enclosure Resource

Quote:
To evaluate the effectiveness of box stuffing, I used an MLSSA analyzer to measure the impedance of three enclosures 5.l-cubic-foot sealed, 1.4-cubic-foot sealed, and 1.4-cubic-foot ported (the port measured 3 inches in diameter and 6 inches in length) with various densities of stuffing. For the sealed boxes, I was able to determine the effective box size as enhanced by the stuffing using the system's resonant-frequency and Qes values. For the ported box, I compared the tuned frequency of the empty enclosure to the tuned frequency of the stuffed enclosure, using the Speak for Windows computer program; this enabled me to find the effective box size that fit the actual resonant frequency I'd measured.

Sealed Box (1.4 cubic ft ):


Sealed Box (5.1 cubic ft):


Ported Box (1.4 cubic ft):
Usually about 1/2 pound to a maximum of one pound of polyfill per one cubic ft is enough. Over-stuffing a subwoofer box may have a negative effect. Some people suggest that you experiment with the amount of polyfill until you get the desired effect.

It is a good idea to staple or glue a thin layer of polyfill to all the interior panels of the subwoofer box and add sufficient amount of loose polyfill to the box. Remember that if you put too much loose polyfill inside a ported subwoofer, it may lower the sound quality and the polyfill may blow out of the port.

Although fiberglass can also be used, I do not recommend it as it can become a health hazard.

Polyfill can also have a positive effect on regular speakers. Speakers are more subject to back standing waves as the drivers generate much higher frequencies (lower wavelengths).

Last edited by Big Daddy; 10-11-2009 at 01:22 AM.
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Old 10-11-2009, 01:43 AM   #15
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Does raising all towers or stands(for bookshelves or surrounds) help those speakers as well?
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Old 10-11-2009, 02:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by browndk26 View Post
Does raising all towers or stands(for bookshelves or surrounds) help those speakers as well?
Towers are usually very large and you want their tweeters to be at ear level. However, spikes or small isolation pads can help and stabilize the towers. Keep the back of the towers at least a foot or two awy from the wall.

Bookshelf speakers normally perform the best on speaker stands. Make sure their tweeters are at ear level.

Last edited by Big Daddy; 10-11-2009 at 02:56 AM.
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Old 10-11-2009, 04:42 AM   #17
jomari jomari is offline
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most subs are already tuned to their manufacturers preferences, built to a way to accomodate what comes out with the best response, with of course relation to cost.

polyfill is considered a DIYers trick to further implement their findings, and, if done correctly, can further extend what already is, a perfect sub. this is also one reason HSU sold turbos to further extend the frequency level. a trick utilized by many, with great results as a general response. if done correctly, can yield what you might be looking for.

isolating and raising your subwoofer are two different aspects, with isolation being an active response to the speakers performance, and raising it would be a more passive approach. i think i posted this a while back, but what you are trying to do is
1. removing the interaction between the subwoofer and the room with the isolator... and
2. maximizing the response from the subwoofer, with addressing the axial mode of the room. in essence you are assisting it to perform better, by giving it leverage. (no pun intended)

its like clay barring your car. at times, most people dont really know what they do, nor do they care as to what effects it has on a car. yet in the long run, most people especially detail enthusiast, know that it helps keeping the cars depth and detail when applied at least twice a year.

you dont HAVE to do it, but after seeing results, the aftermath of a good clay bar, wash, wax - you see the finished product.
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Old 10-11-2009, 01:56 PM   #18
Yeha-Noha Yeha-Noha is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by progers13 View Post
Where did you get the neoprene rubber pads?
I got mine from a local garden supply store. They're 23" x 18" x 1" pads that are normally used to kneel on if you're working on rocky soil or hard surfaces around the house and cost $12.99 ea. Even Home Depot's garden center has rubber pads but they're a bit smaller and thinner around 18" x 12" x 3/4 " thick for about $5 each.
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Old 10-11-2009, 07:25 PM   #19
progers13 progers13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwojtalewicz View Post
I got mine from a local garden supply store. They're 23" x 18" x 1" pads that are normally used to kneel on if you're working on rocky soil or hard surfaces around the house and cost $12.99 ea. Even Home Depot's garden center has rubber pads but they're a bit smaller and thinner around 18" x 12" x 3/4 " thick for about $5 each.
Thanks - I went to Home Depot this morning actually and found them in the flooring section. The one I got is 36" x 24" x 3/4". I've already put it down under my sub. I'm still tweaking, but it seems to be making a difference. The bass seems more evenly dispersed and not as boomy. I'll post an update once I get it all set to my liking.
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Old 10-11-2009, 09:18 PM   #20
Yeha-Noha Yeha-Noha is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by progers13 View Post
Thanks - I went to Home Depot this morning actually and found them in the flooring section. The one I got is 36" x 24" x 3/4". I've already put it down under my sub. I'm still tweaking, but it seems to be making a difference. The bass seems more evenly dispersed and not as boomy. I'll post an update once I get it all set to my liking.
Great! Those are interlocking to fit under a washer or dryer, right? If I remember correctly, I saw them at Home Depot too. I would cut them to size and double them up to give 1.5 inch thickness. Those should work terrific too since their purpose is to reduce vibrations from washers, dryers, etc. Good choice.
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