Panasonic UB820/UB9000 4K UHD Blu-ray player

[Bunty2]

Originally Posted by danny24

Good to hear the remote control is also better to. Have fun with it it's built like a tank.

And the remote control is even back lit. Too bad a big problem is that most makers don't make their remote control back lit.

[chip75]

Originally Posted by Bunty2

And the remote control is even back lit. Too bad a big problem is that most makers don't make their remote control back lit.

LG have a lovely backlit remote the same as their Magic Remote, but it only comes with their short throw projectors.

[IlCorvo]

Is it possible to change the ethernet MAC-Adress of a blu-ray player?

[danny24]

Originally Posted by Bunty2

And the remote control is even back lit. Too bad a big problem is that most makers don't make their remote control back lit.

Manufacturers getting cheap and ditching backlit remotes. It really helps though to have a remote that lights up.

[MarkGubarenko]

Originally Posted by IlCorvo

Is it possible to change the ethernet MAC-Adress of a blu-ray player?

So you could use someone's region freedom firmware?

[IlCorvo]

Originally Posted by MarkGubarenko

So you could use someone's region freedom firmware?

So that I can use my firmware on my second player.

[moff90]

Originally Posted by IlCorvo

So that I can use my firmware on my second player.

I think it would be easier to modify the firmware itself. Have you tried installing it as-is btw?

[mdhaus]

Originally Posted by PuppetMasterBlu

Bingo. Do you lose the menus into blackness or are just the letters black. I lose mine altogether. Also does your screen go black for 2-3 seconds?

Usually, it's just the letters that go black. But I've had a few instances where there was more than that. LOL...A couple weeks ago, I booted up "Run Lola Run" and only the photo was visible on the main menu - the entire menu section on the bottom was a huge black bar, as was the area along the right that you needed to be able to see in order to select audio and subtitle settings. I ended up having to start the movie, then adjust the audio track and subtitle features on the remote after it had begun.

I really don't think it's a problem with the player...I think it's a glitch with TCL's Dolby Vision software on the TV.

I'm not having any problems with the screen going black.

[PuppetMasterBlu]

Originally Posted by mdhaus

Usually, it's just the letters that go black. But I've had a few instances where there was more than that. LOL...A couple weeks ago, I booted up "Run Lola Run" and only the photo was visible on the main menu - the entire menu section on the bottom was a huge black bar, as was the area along the right that you needed to be able to see in order to select audio and subtitle settings. I ended up having to start the movie, then adjust the audio track and subtitle features on the remote after it had begun.

I really don't think it's a problem with the player...I think it's a glitch with TCL's Dolby Vision software on the TV.

I'm not having any problems with the screen going black.

Ok that is exactly what is going on with me...with added black outs here and there.

[Lucy Diamond]

I noticed that The Lord of the Rings Trilogy discs take around 10 minutes to load.

[Jack Priest]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

It's possible one of your settings is converting it. What's your 4K/60 Output, Color Mode, Deep Color Mode, and HDR/ Color Gamut settings??

I'll have a look later to check, but those settings should all be fine.

[Jack Priest]

Originally Posted by Naiera

What’s the rest of your equipment? Sounds to me like something in there doesn’t support 2160p at 50Hz.

LG CX OLED & a Samsung Q950T soundbar. I may try it again soon with Dolby Vision turned off, because the soundbar seems to have issues with Dolby Vision pass through sometimes.

[AKORIS]

okay-- GEOFF, CHIP, whomever--

would like some opinions on the luminance setting on the 820 for a C1 OLED-

Which would give me more "pop"?

OLED setting or SUPER HIGH LUMINANCE setting?

[Geoff D]

That's not what that setting is for

[AKORIS]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

That's not what that setting is for

well enlighten me then-- what setting should I have my TV at?

I think I had it at the middle luminance setting before I bought my OLED and then I set it to the OLED setting-- will this give me the best picture?

[Geoff D]

The HDR Optimiser is there to provide a threshold for the player to apply its own tone mapping to the signal. Basic is 500 nits (so anything above that will be mapped by the Optimiser's custom curve), medium/high LCD and OLED are 1000 nits, and Super High LCD is 1500 nits. It's not about adding "pop" (ugh), quite the opposite, it's about taming the HDR signal above those points.

But as you have such a recent TV you shouldn't really have any need for the Optimiser at all, most stuff is mastered to 1000 nits max these days anyway. Of the stuff that isn't - Sony to the front desk please - they're supplying Dolby Vision encodes so that takes care of the Light Cannon™️ tone mapping in a far more nuanced way than the blunt instrument of the Optimiser. Unless people are rocking a display with severely compromised tone mapping then the Optimiser's usefulness is diminishing rapidly.

[AKORIS]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

The HDR Optimiser is there to provide a threshold for the player to apply its own tone mapping to the signal. Basic is 500 nits (so anything above that will be mapped by the Optimiser's custom curve), medium/high LCD and OLED are 1000 nits, and Super High LCD is 1500 nits. It's not about adding "pop" (ugh), quite the opposite, it's about taming the HDR signal above those points.

But as you have such a recent TV you shouldn't really have any need for the Optimiser at all, most stuff is mastered to 1000 nits max these days anyway. Of the stuff that isn't - Sony to the front desk please - they're supplying Dolby Vision encodes so that takes care of the Light Cannon™️ tone mapping in a far more nuanced way than the blunt instrument of the Optimiser. Unless people are rocking a display with severely compromised tone mapping then the Optimiser's usefulness is diminishing rapidly.

I knew I made a mistake as soon as I posted using the term "pop". I just want the best picture possible with the strongest colors, the deepest blacks, and a picture that's vibrant (not to be confused with vivid lol!)

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

The HDR Optimiser is there to provide a threshold for the player to apply its own tone mapping to the signal. Basic is 500 nits (so anything above that will be mapped by the Optimiser's custom curve), medium/high LCD and OLED are 1000 nits, and Super High LCD is 1500 nits. It's not about adding "pop" (ugh), quite the opposite, it's about taming the HDR signal above those points.

But as you have such a recent TV you shouldn't really have any need for the Optimiser at all, most stuff is mastered to 1000 nits max these days anyway. Of the stuff that isn't - Sony to the front desk please - they're supplying Dolby Vision encodes so that takes care of the Light Cannon™️ tone mapping in a far more nuanced way than the blunt instrument of the Optimiser. Unless people are rocking a display with severely compromised tone mapping then the Optimiser's usefulness is diminishing rapidly.

Originally Posted by AKORIS

I knew I made a mistake as soon as I posted using the term "pop". I just want the best picture possible with the strongest colors, the deepest blacks, and a picture that's vibrant (not to be confused with vivid lol!)

Geoff is right. The HDR Optimizer helps with tone mapping HDR content that your TV cannot handle as well. It's mainly used to help older HDR TVs. Newer TVs though seem to handle HDR content better.

Now since I have a C9, I feel as though most LG TVs tone map pretty well. That's why I have it set to Super High Luminance to help with some of the HDR content that exceeds 1,500 nits. Now since you have a C1, it's possible you don't need the HDR Optimizer. You will just have to experiment to find out.

I also use LG's Dynamic Tone Mapping with the Optimizer. The DTM function will give you more of that "pop" that you are looking for. The downside is that it does overcook the picture.

This leads to my new experiment/test I'm working on. As I said, the DTM on LG TVs can overcook the picture. I recently started messing with the HDR Optimizer's Dynamic Range Adjustment in the HDR Optimizer Menu. And what I found is that as I decrease the slider, the picture isn't overcooked and looks normal. Now, the movies I've tested this on so far are Harry Potters 1,2, 4, and 5 as well as the 1st Avengers movie. I feel like I got them very close to what they all should look like (based on their Dolby Vision Streaming Versions). At the same moment, I'm not sure if I'm using the Dynamic Range Adjustment correctly and I'm ruining my picture. Has anyone with an LG OLED TV messed with the Dynamic Range Adjustment by chance??

[captainsolo]

As a new 820 owner two things I've noticed:
-There's no easy way to see the runtime of what you're watching without pressing a button twice.
-Not being able to fast forward or rewind after you pause is bizarre. It says "operation not allowed". I can only fast forward or rewind in motion.

I didn't notice any difference between it and my Blu-ray players for upscaling DVDs. All DVDs and lesser BDs look like utter crap on my OLED.

[Jonathan McLeod]

Originally Posted by captainsolo

As a new 820 owner two things I've noticed:
-There's no easy way to see the runtime of what you're watching without pressing a button twice.

Just checking that you are aware this is displayed on the front panel of the machine itself? Appreciate it may not be convenient dependent on where you have your player sitting.