Need some install help!

[zachd73]

I have someone who is going to help install my new projector and screen.

However, I am going to go buy the cables needed where possible.

It is a mits hc3000 projector
Dalite manual pull down screen 106"
Samsung Blu-Ray Projector (HDMI)
Marantz AV (NO HDMI, 7.1 analog inputs in use)

Room is 16.5 by 10 by 8 high.

I am going to get a 35 foot HDMI cable (1.3 compliant) - (RIGHT?)

I am not sure if I really need to run component cables. But I suspect it would not hurt. I do have a ps2 which I don't play often but maybe I will want to and it uses component.

Power cable - is there a special cable for long install runs or is a heavy duty extension cord basically what is often used?

I have a panamax surge protector/regulator so it seems I would want to run out to that (and not tie directly in to house power - do people do this sometimes?)

Is there any other cable I should consider running? I have also read maybe an IR trigger for things in the future like an automatic screen that can be controlled with one remote? That is a possibility, but I do not think I will run this cable at this time though.

I have no idea what all these wires will look like coming out of the wall near my A/V equipment?? I know that running them down the wall will not be that difficult, I recently ran a network cable and there was an old vent in the wall so it was simple... however that installer used an unused electrical box and put a network jack on the wall.

Do most people get different wall jacks for all these different cables or do they just come out of the wall together through a big hole??! I have not seen an HDMI wall jack, a component cable wall jack, etc. and have no idea how the power is going to come out to plug in to the surge protector.

I'm also curious about the basics of hanging the screen -

Is a ceiling mount the most logical versus a wall mount? The screen has holes for hooks at either end. I don't see how these would line up with studs in the wall but they would easily line up with studs in the ceiling since they run cross ways appropriately... however I had not really anticipated the screen hanging out from the wall much at all or any. If it does hang from ceiling it will be out from the wall however far the stud is located right?
Do you need anything more than the studs in the ceiling such as reinforcement?

Projector - I have an omni mount. The projector has no lens shift. I have to line it up exactly with the screen right? Also same thing with studs in ceiling - will the stud location dictate the distance from the back wall that I can place it?

Thanks for any help. If there is an install guide or document out there I can read up on, please send a link!

Thanks again, this is a great forum, I've gotten some great help so far.
I'm crossing my fingers this installer is good and I definately want to know what he should be doing before he does it!

[Brain Sturgeon]

Originally Posted by zachd73

I have someone who is going to help install my new projector and screen.

However, I am going to go buy the cables needed where possible.

It is a mits hc3000 projector
Dalite manual pull down screen 106"
Samsung Blu-Ray Projector (HDMI)
Marantz AV (NO HDMI, 7.1 analog inputs in use)

Room is 16.5 by 10 by 8 high.

I am going to get a 35 foot HDMI cable (1.3 compliant) - (RIGHT?)

I am not sure if I really need to run component cables. But I suspect it would not hurt. I do have a ps2 which I don't play often but maybe I will want to and it uses component.

Rule of thumb: always run more cables than you think you need. If you're going to run HDMI, I would also run component to your PJ. Make sure the cable you are running is rated for in-wall use, by the way (CL2 or better)

Power cable - is there a special cable for long install runs or is a heavy duty extension cord basically what is often used?

I have a panamax surge protector/regulator so it seems I would want to run out to that (and not tie directly in to house power - do people do this sometimes?)

Do not-- I repeat-- Do not run a normal power cable through your wall from a wall socket to your projector. It is unsafe and is definitely not code. If your house gets set on fire from it, your insurer will not cover you.

Panamax does have a product that is fairly easy to install that will fit your needs: http://panamax.com/Products/In-Wall/...ERKIT-PRO.aspx
You basically run Romex between the power "inlet" to the "outlet" and then plug the "inlet" into your power conditioner. It's like extending a socket from your conditioner, through the wall, to your projector:

Is there any other cable I should consider running? I have also read maybe an IR trigger for things in the future like an automatic screen that can be controlled with one remote? That is a possibility, but I do not think I will run this cable at this time though.

Yes, I would definitely run an IR repeater to your projector so that if/when you set up a universal remote, you will be ready. It is much easier to run them all at once, than to have to keep running new cable from time to time.

I have no idea what all these wires will look like coming out of the wall near my A/V equipment?? I know that running them down the wall will not be that difficult, I recently ran a network cable and there was an old vent in the wall so it was simple... however that installer used an unused electrical box and put a network jack on the wall.

Do most people get different wall jacks for all these different cables or do they just come out of the wall together through a big hole??! I have not seen an HDMI wall jack, a component cable wall jack, etc. and have no idea how the power is going to come out to plug in to the surge protector.

You can do it any way you want. There are recessed, open hole faceplates that will let you run low voltage cables all the way through, and then there are terminal faceplates with HDMI, 2.0 single ended, 5.1 single ended, 7.1 single ended, etc. Monoprice has a lot of these: http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...09&cp_id=10425

I'm also curious about the basics of hanging the screen -

Is a ceiling mount the most logical versus a wall mount? The screen has holes for hooks at either end. I don't see how these would line up with studs in the wall but they would easily line up with studs in the ceiling since they run cross ways appropriately... however I had not really anticipated the screen hanging out from the wall much at all or any. If it does hang from ceiling it will be out from the wall however far the stud is located right?
Do you need anything more than the studs in the ceiling such as reinforcement?

I am not familiar with your screen, but most screens are not particularly heavy. If you mount it to studs, you shouldn't have any problems. You can mount nearly anything to studs with some good wood screws. If the screen is light enough, you could probably mount it to drywall alone with the proper anchors. Whether you would be better off mounting to the ceiling or wall is dependent on your setup. I think I would prefer wall mounting myself if I had a manual pulldown to get it as close to the wall as possible.

Projector - I have an omni mount. The projector has no lens shift. I have to line it up exactly with the screen right? Also same thing with studs in ceiling - will the stud location dictate the distance from the back wall that I can place it?

I am not familiar with your projector, but I would be surprised if there is no lens shift. If so, it will make it very hard to install the projector as it will need to be dead center to the screen horizontally and vertically. There is no way a projector with no lens shift can be mounted to a ceiling, as the upper half of your screen would need to be mounted above projector (i.e. the screen would be above your ceiling). The projector will either have a fixed lens shift, or an adjustable one. Check the projector's manual for guidance.

I would definitely mount your projector to studs, as you don't want an expensive and heavy object over your head mounted in an unstable fashion. You will need to choose a throw distance based upon your screen width and your projector's zoom range. Here is a calculator that should work for you:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mits...ulator-pro.htm

Check the manual too:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/...anual_3026.pdf

Thanks for any help. If there is an install guide or document out there I can read up on, please send a link!

Thanks again, this is a great forum, I've gotten some great help so far.
I'm crossing my fingers this installer is good and I definately want to know what he should be doing before he does it!

Good luck!

[zachd73]

Originally Posted by Brain Sturgeon

Rule of thumb: always run more cables than you think you need. If you're going to run HDMI, I would also run component to your PJ. Make sure the cable you are running is rated for in-wall use, by the way (CL2 or better)

Do not-- I repeat-- Do not run a normal power cable through your wall from a wall socket to your projector. It is unsafe and is definitely not code. If your house gets set on fire from it, your insurer will not cover you.

Panamax does have a product that is fairly easy to install that will fit your needs: http://panamax.com/Products/In-Wall/...ERKIT-PRO.aspx
You basically run Romex between the power "inlet" to the "outlet" and then plug the "inlet" into your power conditioner. It's like extending a socket from your conditioner, through the wall, to your projector:


Yes, I would definitely run an IR repeater to your projector so that if/when you set up a universal remote, you will be ready. It is much easier to run them all at once, than to have to keep running new cable from time to time.



You can do it any way you want. There are recessed, open hole faceplates that will let you run low voltage cables all the way through, and then there are terminal faceplates with HDMI, 2.0 single ended, 5.1 single ended, 7.1 single ended, etc. Monoprice has a lot of these: http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...09&cp_id=10425



I am not familiar with your screen, but most screens are not particularly heavy. If you mount it to studs, you shouldn't have any problems. You can mount nearly anything to studs with some good wood screws. If the screen is light enough, you could probably mount it to drywall alone with the proper anchors. Whether you would be better off mounting to the ceiling or wall is dependent on your setup. I think I would prefer wall mounting myself if I had a manual pulldown to get it as close to the wall as possible.


I am not familiar with your projector, but I would be surprised if there is no lens shift. If so, it will make it very hard to install the projector as it will need to be dead center to the screen horizontally and vertically. There is no way a projector with no lens shift can be mounted to a ceiling, as the upper half of your screen would need to be mounted above projector (i.e. the screen would be above your ceiling). The projector will either have a fixed lens shift, or an adjustable one. Check the projector's manual for guidance.



Good luck!

Romex - yuck. If it matters, I am not going through a wall but ceiling if it matters any. My house is approaching 70 years old and has cloth covered wire in many parts, so I am not sure if a heavy duty extension cord is going to be more or less safe than my old ass wiring but I am definately taking your advice under advisement and will try and run romex although that will definately make things more complex than I had planned.. with romex I will have to put an outlet on the ceiling which is not something I had planned for.


Lens Shift on the HC3000

"Unfortunately, the HC3000 does not have any mechanical lens shift like its predecessor. This means that the projector must either be adjusted with a variable ceiling mount or as a last resort by tilting the projector."

Not entirely sure if the mount I have is going to tilt or not. Bummer.

I honestly don't understand how lens shift works. It sounds like it is the same as tilting the project up or down to move the image up or down to hit the screen perfectly. If I did tilt it down so that it hits the screen - won't it no longer be square and thus have to be keystoned corrected reguardless?

I don't see how the lense shift can keep the image perfectly square (assuming it is the same as tilting the projector up or down).

Maybe this will be more apparent when I am trying to get it installed

How would people use this projector (MITS HC3000) or any other one without the lens shift?? Do you have to hang the projector down 5 feet off the ceiling??!

Thanks!!

[Brain Sturgeon]

Originally Posted by zachd73

Romex - yuck. If it matters, I am not going through a wall but ceiling if it matters any. My house is approaching 70 years old and has cloth covered wire in many parts, so I am not sure if a heavy duty extension cord is going to be more or less safe than my old ass wiring but I am definately taking your advice under advisement and will try and run romex although that will definately make things more complex than I had planned.. with romex I will have to put an outlet on the ceiling which is not something I had planned for.

I would definitely stick with Romex. It's stiff, but if you use a decent fish cable, it should pull pretty well. When in doubt, consult or hire a qualified electrician.

Lens Shift on the HC3000

"Unfortunately, the HC3000 does not have any mechanical lens shift like its predecessor. This means that the projector must either be adjusted with a variable ceiling mount or as a last resort by tilting the projector."

Not entirely sure if the mount I have is going to tilt or not. Bummer.

I honestly don't understand how lens shift works. It sounds like it is the same as tilting the project up or down to move the image up or down to hit the screen perfectly. If I did tilt it down so that it hits the screen - won't it no longer be square and thus have to be keystoned corrected reguardless?

I don't see how the lense shift can keep the image perfectly square (assuming it is the same as tilting the projector up or down).

Maybe this will be more apparent when I am trying to get it installed

How would people use this projector (MITS HC3000) or any other one without the lens shift?? Do you have to hang the projector down 5 feet off the ceiling??!

Thanks!!

Lens shift is just a design in the lens system itself such that the image remains in perfect proportion (a rectangle) despite being shifted above or below (or in some projectors sideways) from the centerline of the lens itself.

Looking at these images from the manual, it looks like your projector has a fixed lens shift:




You will need to mount the projector so that the centerline of the lens is above the top of the screen by a little more than 16.5" (the "Hd" value in the above chart from the manual based upon your diagonal screen size of 106") somewhere between ~143-174" from the screen. It seems that you can also adjust the vertical location of the image a bit using the "Vertical Location" function in the installation menu (see page 10 of the manual).

If this still doesn't get it quite right, the only other way would be to tilt the projector and use the keystone adjustment, but I would avoid this like the plague as it will degrade your image significantly.

Hope this helps!

[zachd73]

Originally Posted by Brain Sturgeon

I would definitely stick with Romex. It's stiff, but if you use a decent fish cable, it should pull pretty well. When in doubt, consult or hire a qualified electrician.



Lens shift is just a design in the lens system itself such that the image remains in perfect proportion (a rectangle) despite being shifted above or below (or in some projectors sideways) from the centerline of the lens itself.

Looking at these images from the manual, it looks like your projector has a fixed lens shift:




You will need to mount the projector so that the centerline of the lens is above the top of the screen by a little more than 16.5" (the "Hd" value in the above chart from the manual based upon your diagonal screen size of 106") somewhere between ~143-174" from the screen. It seems that you can also adjust the vertical location of the image a bit using the "Vertical Location" function in the installation menu (see page 10 of the manual).

If this still doesn't get it quite right, the only other way would be to tilt the projector and use the keystone adjustment, but I would avoid this like the plague as it will degrade your image significantly.

Hope this helps!

Thanks again! I did read a review and was relieved to find that the projector does have a fixed lens shift of about 1/3 so that if it was hanging upside down the screen would likely be 2 or 3 feet down from the ceiling which would be just about right. At first I thought it projected straight ahead and thus would seem quite difficult to mount in any situation.

I used a mits calculator, but there were a few elements in it that I did not quite get but I am 92% sure that it is all going to work out very nicely. I can adjust the screen up or down several feet and I can adjust the projector up and down on the pole it hangs from about 1 foot also. If all else fails I will tilt and use slight keystone correction which I can live with.


Lastly, it seems some people say hang the screen first, then move the projector back until it fills the screen correctly and then stop there and you have your approximate spot to place it. Or you could mount the projector where you wanted it then move the screen up or down to fit.

It seems in my case putting the screen up first is going to be the way to go but I would appreciate any opinions on that.

I read a neat trick to find the center point to place the projector in relation to the width of the screen and that is use taught string and a pencil like a compass to make two intersecting marks where the center will be.

[Brain Sturgeon]

Sounds like you have it figured out. You've got some wiggle room with the screen and projector placement, so I think you'll be fine.

Good luck!

[Cisco in HD]

Brain, let me ask you a question about screens since you're more than experienced in the PJ/screen arena.

Why would one curve their screen vs leaving it flush against the wall?

What benefit does the image have on a curved screen, such as yours?

I suppose both questions seem similar, but I'm just gathering info on a PJ set and would want to know why, then what benefits does one (curved screen) have over the other (flush screen).

[Twitch9]

I agree with getting a longer HDMI also when running 35' or more HDMI i would recommend getting a HDMI booster, i believe monoprice sells them as well.

[Beta Man]

Originally Posted by Cisco in HD

Brain, let me ask you a question about screens since you're more than experienced in the PJ/screen arena.

Why would one curve their screen vs leaving it flush against the wall?

What benefit does the image have on a curved screen, such as yours?

I suppose both questions seem similar, but I'm just gathering info on a PJ set and would want to know why, then what benefits does one (curved screen) have over the other (flush screen).

Brain obviously would be able to answer this better.... but I BELIEVE..... it's because of the distance the light has to travel.... a curved screen causes less of a distance at the edges, so it offsets the natural curve of the projector's lens....

Again, that's my horrid attempt at rationalization. He also has an anamorphic lens......

[Brain Sturgeon]

Originally Posted by Cisco in HD

Brain, let me ask you a question about screens since you're more than experienced in the PJ/screen arena.

Why would one curve their screen vs leaving it flush against the wall?

What benefit does the image have on a curved screen, such as yours?

I suppose both questions seem similar, but I'm just gathering info on a PJ set and would want to know why, then what benefits does one (curved screen) have over the other (flush screen).

Curved screens are primarily useful in the management of pincushion distortion caused by the introduction of an anamorphic lens to the light path. The anamorphic lens accentuates the deleterious effect of light from your projector having to travel a farther distance to the edges of your screen as compared to the center. This is more noticeable with short throw distances. Some lenses do this less than others, but all of them do this to some extent if you are looking hard enough.

A curved screen attempts to place the screen material on a radius such that the screen material is a constant distance from the point light source of your projector. This helps to combat pincushion distortion. There are calculators to figure out what this radius is for your exact setup (throw distance, screen size), but 40' radius is a rough estimation that works for many setups.

The other reasons for a curved screen are: 1. better reflection of light towards the viewer(s) in the viewing area, and 2. "cool" factor.

Bottom line: I would only consider a curved screen if you are planning to use an anamorphic lens. If you are not planning a scope system, or if you are planning to use the "zoom" or servo "zoom" methods of scope projection, then I would stick with a flat screen.

HTH!

[Cisco in HD]

I need to preface this by saying I've been and LCD guy for sometime now, and I'm happy with my current set up but with this damn disease we all have regarding this way of life, I'm just looking to learn what I can now before I even consider upgrading. Also, the disease is the dreaded, yet attainable Upgradeitis.


Thanks Brain, It helped a lot. Now, would curving the screen be more for saving the integrity of the screen from pincushion distortion? Or the image itself on the screen?

Also, when you mean anamorphic lens, I believe that's a lens in front of the projector that 'adjusts' forward and backword to adjust between 1.85:1 and 2.35/2.40:1, correct? Or is it a lens that when that picture pushed out of the projector it passes through a concave lens, curving the image.

[Brain Sturgeon]

Originally Posted by Cisco in HD

I need to preface this by saying I've been and LCD guy for sometime now, and I'm happy with my current set up but with this damn disease we all have regarding this way of life, I'm just looking to learn what I can now before I even consider upgrading. Also, the disease is the dreaded, yet attainable Upgradeitis.

Yup-- highly contagious, and completely uncurable.

Thanks Brain, It helped a lot. Now, would curving the screen be more for saving the integrity of the screen from pincushion distortion? Or the image itself on the screen?

You're welcome. An anamorphic lens creates pincushion distortion in the image (as viewed on a flat screen). The curved screen attempts to reverse the pincushion distortion.

Also, when you mean anamorphic lens, I believe that's a lens in front of the projector that 'adjusts' forward and backword to adjust between 1.85:1 and 2.35/2.40:1, correct? Or is it a lens that when that picture pushed out of the projector it passes through a concave lens, curving the image.

There are two types of anamorphic lenses: horizontal expansion and vertical compression, with the former being more common. The HE lenses expand the image 1.33x horizontally while leaving the vertical aspect of the image unaltered. You simply pass the lens in/out of the light path when you engage/disengage the v-stretch feature of your projector or VP to get a correctly proportioned 2.40 or 1.85 image without the black bars. There are also ways to do this so that you leave the lens in the light path permanently (either a lens that can shift prisms to "turn off" the horizontal stretch-- currently manufactured by Prismasonic, or if your projector/VP has a horizontal compression mode). Anamorphic lenses are not strictly concave-- they are typically composed of prisms or cylindrical lenses, or a combination of the two.

[Cisco in HD]

Ok, if I'm picking this up correctly, the anamorphic lens is the aspect ratio "adjuster" making it possible to watch 2.40 & 1.85 films on the same screen without even touching the projector. Sound about right?

[Brain Sturgeon]

Originally Posted by Cisco in HD

Ok, if I'm picking this up correctly, the anamorphic lens is the aspect ratio "adjuster" making it possible to watch 2.40 & 1.85 films on the same screen without even touching the projector. Sound about right?

That's pretty much it. In a setup with an anamorphic lens, you leave the lens out of the light path when watching 16:9 material to view the native 16:9 image projected by your PJ. When watching 2.4:1 material, you engage the v-stretch function of your PJ or VP, which stretches your image 33% in the vertical dimension, excluding the dreaded "black bars" from your imaging panel. This allows the entirety of your imaging panel to be used for reproducing the scope image. However, the image is distorted (too tall). This is where the anamorphic comes in. You slide the lens into the light path, and voila, you have a correctly proportioned scope image. You don't need to adjust the lens shift or zoom in this kind of a setup.

Hope that makes sense.

[Cisco in HD]

Originally Posted by Brain Sturgeon

That's pretty much it. In a setup with an anamorphic lens, you leave the lens out of the light path when watching 16:9 material to view the native 16:9 image projected by your PJ. When watching 2.4:1 material, you engage the v-stretch function of your PJ or VP, which stretches your image 33% in the vertical dimension, excluding the dreaded "black bars" from your imaging panel. This allows the entirety of your imaging panel to be used for reproducing the scope image. However, the image is distorted (too tall). This is where the anamorphic comes in. You slide the lens into the light path, and voila, you have a correctly proportioned scope image. You don't need to adjust the lens shift or zoom in this kind of a setup.

Hope that makes sense.

It does, since my last post I googled "anamorphic lens" and it did mention what you said about some images being too tall. Also, it was stated that not all projectors allow anamorphic lens to be added.

I take it with all HT eqiuptment, there are low end and high end anamorphic lenses, or is it all pretty much an even field?

[Brain Sturgeon]

Originally Posted by Cisco in HD

I take it with all HT eqiuptment, there are low end and high end anamorphic lenses

Yes. From around $600 to $8k or so. There are DIY prism lenses as well.

[Cisco in HD]

So what qualities should one look for in an anamorphic lens when it comes to buying one for a projector?

More importantly, how will/do you know you need one with the projector you have or will purchase?

[Disky76]

Originally Posted by zachd73

I have someone who is going to help install my new projector and screen.

However, I am going to go buy the cables needed where possible.

It is a mits hc3000 projector
Dalite manual pull down screen 106"
Samsung Blu-Ray Projector (HDMI)
Marantz AV (NO HDMI, 7.1 analog inputs in use)

Room is 16.5 by 10 by 8 high.

I am going to get a 35 foot HDMI cable (1.3 compliant) - (RIGHT?)

I am not sure if I really need to run component cables. But I suspect it would not hurt. I do have a ps2 which I don't play often but maybe I will want to and it uses component.

Power cable - is there a special cable for long install runs or is a heavy duty extension cord basically what is often used?

I have a panamax surge protector/regulator so it seems I would want to run out to that (and not tie directly in to house power - do people do this sometimes?)

Is there any other cable I should consider running? I have also read maybe an IR trigger for things in the future like an automatic screen that can be controlled with one remote? That is a possibility, but I do not think I will run this cable at this time though.

I have no idea what all these wires will look like coming out of the wall near my A/V equipment?? I know that running them down the wall will not be that difficult, I recently ran a network cable and there was an old vent in the wall so it was simple... however that installer used an unused electrical box and put a network jack on the wall.

Do most people get different wall jacks for all these different cables or do they just come out of the wall together through a big hole??! I have not seen an HDMI wall jack, a component cable wall jack, etc. and have no idea how the power is going to come out to plug in to the surge protector.

I'm also curious about the basics of hanging the screen -

Is a ceiling mount the most logical versus a wall mount? The screen has holes for hooks at either end. I don't see how these would line up with studs in the wall but they would easily line up with studs in the ceiling since they run cross ways appropriately... however I had not really anticipated the screen hanging out from the wall much at all or any. If it does hang from ceiling it will be out from the wall however far the stud is located right?
Do you need anything more than the studs in the ceiling such as reinforcement?

Projector - I have an omni mount. The projector has no lens shift. I have to line it up exactly with the screen right? Also same thing with studs in ceiling - will the stud location dictate the distance from the back wall that I can place it?

Thanks for any help. If there is an install guide or document out there I can read up on, please send a link!

Thanks again, this is a great forum, I've gotten some great help so far.
I'm crossing my fingers this installer is good and I definately want to know what he should be doing before he does it!

In my setup, I have all of the components on a shelf, in the back of the room, with the projector. The only lengthy cables that I had to run were the center, left and right channels. I also have my subs near the viewing area, which works out well.

I have a 6' HDMI cable running from my projector to my Blu-Ray player. I found that setup works well, and less cables to fish through walls and ceilings!

Good luck!

[Brain Sturgeon]

Originally Posted by Cisco in HD

So what qualities should one look for in an anamorphic lens when it comes to buying one for a projector?

More importantly, how will/do you know you need one with the projector you have or will purchase?

Well, as with most things in the world, higher quality = higher price. The price is basically congruent with the quality of the optics. There is no such thing as a perfect lens, and each of these lenses with degrade the light output and MTF of your lens system somewhat; although this has been reported to be around 3% for the best lens out there: the ISCO III. You want to choose an anamorphic that is consistent with the quality of your projector. I wouldn't buy and ISCO III for a sub $3k projector, but I also wouldn't buy a Home Theater Brothers Anamorphic ($600) for a $10k+ projector.

If you decide to do a CIH (constant image height) system using the "lens technique", as opposed to the "zoom technique", then you will need an anamorphic lens. You will also need to get a projector or a VP that has a v-stretch function to work with the anamorphic. This is not a necessity with FP systems, but a scope setup really elevates the level of the home theater experience, IMHO.

[Cisco in HD]

Good to know Brain. Thanks for your expertise.

I did myself a favor and read the world of projectors sticky.

How important is gain when picking a screen? Obviously, the higher the gain the less of a viewing angle is prominent. Naturally the screen would be needed to be taken into account when setting up the seating area in the planning phase (of course).

How important is screen color?

What color gives a better image in a dark room with controlled lighting?