APC H15 Power Conditioner

[link_of_hyrule]

Just rec'd my APC H15 to protect my stuff...the rear panel connectors are very specific. Does it really matter what gets plugged into what? The instructions are slightly vague. What about things like PS3, Wii, etc? Are they digital or analogue? I also have 2 plugs for my sub-woofer - the main cable (ok, that one I can figure out) and another for the X-30 control unit box that goes with it. Where do I stick these?

[SDBlu]

Here you go...most of your questions should be answered here:

https://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=85416

[link_of_hyrule]

Thanks, MarcosG - helps a lot. I guess the Wii is digital, too? (no big deal - too many mini games anyway - maybe I'll just plug it directly into the wall socket)

Anybody else Have the APC and 2 sub plugs? The 2nd plug is an AC adaptor plug for the control box. What if this goes to digital?

[Drew664]

I would call APC directly. I think a customer rep would be able to answer all of your questions with ease. I have the APC-H15 as well, but I don't have enough stuff to plug into it to have a dilemma like you are having. Call them, share with us what they said, and then get feedback on what others do.

[SDBlu]

I think I read somewhere on here recently that people were having issues plugging their subwoofers to the APC-H15. Some people were recommending getting a regular surge protector (power-strip) specifically for your sub or subs.

Personally I cant plug my sub into my APC because my sub sits all the way across the room from the unit. And I dont want to have to run a long extension cord.

[link_of_hyrule]

Thanks Guys, you are right - I will call APC directly to see what they say. Cheers.

[StimpsonJCat]

Originally Posted by MarcosG

I think I read somewhere on here recently that people were having issues plugging their subwoofers to the APC-H15. Some people were recommending getting a regular surge protector (power-strip) specifically for your sub or subs.

Personally I cant plug my sub into my APC because my sub sits all the way across the room from the unit. And I dont want to have to run a long extension cord.

It has issues with some subwoofer amps where it causes the fuse to blow. I have my Outlaw LFM-1c plugged in with no issues.

[Crypter]

I can say from personal experience that the APC H15 messed up the AMP on my SUB to the point where I had to call ED and have them send me a new AMP to change out the AMP on my A3-300. I have since moved the SUB to a Monster Power surge protector I had laying around and I have all my other equipment on the H15.

You can read about the problem at Audioholics.com. Here is a link to the H15 review.

http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/p...term=apc%20h15

This is the interesting part

The only issue I had with the H15 was its interaction with a subwoofer. Some amps are designed such that they will fool the H15 into thinking that it is in a low voltage situation. The H15 will naturally boost the voltage to accommodate. This can blow the fuses on the sub amps which have very tight operational tolerances (provided they have them). I had this happen twice before I discerned it was the H15/sub interaction. From the standpoint of blame - it's hard to find a culprit. The amp is doing what it is supposed to be doing and the H15 is doing its job. My suggestion is to connect the H15 to a subwoofer with caution. Under normal circumstances this shouldn’t be an issue, but if you find a similar experience when you plug your subwoofer into this unit, disconnect it and plug it into a standard surge protector (APC makes plenty of these as well). I would like to note that I had a number of receivers plugged into the H15 without a problem so my issue may be isolated specifically to the subwoofer I was using in this review.

Note from APC
The problem Tom experienced is probably the sub-woofer drawing a large in-rush of current, causing the line to sag. Some types of AV equipment (Class-A amplifiers, sub-woofers, etc.) have extremely large capacitor banks. If the voltage increases suddenly on these capacitors (when the H15 makes a correction) they demand a large current pulse. Poorly designed equipment has a current limiter that acts only when the equipment is first turned on, or not at all. This is likely the case for this sub-woofer (which is why they designed it with replaceable fuses - any dramatic voltage change after initial turn-on will likely damage the fuse).