Need some install help!

[zachd73]

Originally Posted by Brain Sturgeon

Rule of thumb: always run more cables than you think you need. If you're going to run HDMI, I would also run component to your PJ. Make sure the cable you are running is rated for in-wall use, by the way (CL2 or better)

Do not-- I repeat-- Do not run a normal power cable through your wall from a wall socket to your projector. It is unsafe and is definitely not code. If your house gets set on fire from it, your insurer will not cover you.

Panamax does have a product that is fairly easy to install that will fit your needs: http://panamax.com/Products/In-Wall/...ERKIT-PRO.aspx
You basically run Romex between the power "inlet" to the "outlet" and then plug the "inlet" into your power conditioner. It's like extending a socket from your conditioner, through the wall, to your projector:


Yes, I would definitely run an IR repeater to your projector so that if/when you set up a universal remote, you will be ready. It is much easier to run them all at once, than to have to keep running new cable from time to time.



You can do it any way you want. There are recessed, open hole faceplates that will let you run low voltage cables all the way through, and then there are terminal faceplates with HDMI, 2.0 single ended, 5.1 single ended, 7.1 single ended, etc. Monoprice has a lot of these: http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...09&cp_id=10425



I am not familiar with your screen, but most screens are not particularly heavy. If you mount it to studs, you shouldn't have any problems. You can mount nearly anything to studs with some good wood screws. If the screen is light enough, you could probably mount it to drywall alone with the proper anchors. Whether you would be better off mounting to the ceiling or wall is dependent on your setup. I think I would prefer wall mounting myself if I had a manual pulldown to get it as close to the wall as possible.


I am not familiar with your projector, but I would be surprised if there is no lens shift. If so, it will make it very hard to install the projector as it will need to be dead center to the screen horizontally and vertically. There is no way a projector with no lens shift can be mounted to a ceiling, as the upper half of your screen would need to be mounted above projector (i.e. the screen would be above your ceiling). The projector will either have a fixed lens shift, or an adjustable one. Check the projector's manual for guidance.



Good luck!

Romex - yuck. If it matters, I am not going through a wall but ceiling if it matters any. My house is approaching 70 years old and has cloth covered wire in many parts, so I am not sure if a heavy duty extension cord is going to be more or less safe than my old ass wiring but I am definately taking your advice under advisement and will try and run romex although that will definately make things more complex than I had planned.. with romex I will have to put an outlet on the ceiling which is not something I had planned for.


Lens Shift on the HC3000

"Unfortunately, the HC3000 does not have any mechanical lens shift like its predecessor. This means that the projector must either be adjusted with a variable ceiling mount or as a last resort by tilting the projector."

Not entirely sure if the mount I have is going to tilt or not. Bummer.

I honestly don't understand how lens shift works. It sounds like it is the same as tilting the project up or down to move the image up or down to hit the screen perfectly. If I did tilt it down so that it hits the screen - won't it no longer be square and thus have to be keystoned corrected reguardless?

I don't see how the lense shift can keep the image perfectly square (assuming it is the same as tilting the projector up or down).

Maybe this will be more apparent when I am trying to get it installed

How would people use this projector (MITS HC3000) or any other one without the lens shift?? Do you have to hang the projector down 5 feet off the ceiling??!

Thanks!!