Panasonic UB820/UB9000 4K UHD Blu-ray player

[ronboster]

Originally Posted by alien2010

Does anyone know when the Dolby Vision firmware for the UB820 will be available?

The best information will come from Robert Zohn of Value Electronics. Value Electronics will be the first US company to get the 820. Robert has been demoing a pre-production unit at his shop. Go to advance search and search for posts by member name.

https://forum.blu-ray.com/showpost.p...5&postcount=51

[DJR662]

Package received.

[alien2010]

Originally Posted by clevice

Hello,

what model for 2016 and 2017 ?

Not sure about my friend's 2016 LG OLED. But the one I purchased was the B7. Also I purchased the UB820 (or UB824 as it is listed in some countries) Connected them both up on Friday evening, along with my old Yamaha YSP2200 Sound projector. After calibrating both the TV via Technicolour user mode, and recalibrating my sound projector I watched Dunkirk followed by Blade Runner 2049 The picture is absolutely mesmerising, the detail is great and the colour doesn't blur unlike LED's. The HDR Optimizer certainly helps and will be nice till the Dolby Vision firmware update comes along. Mind you all the 4K UBD's I have at the moment are non Dolby Vision compliant so the optimizer will be useful regardless.

Now with a 55 inch LG OLED and a 2017 50 inch Samsung 4K LED in the other room, I have no intention of upgrading anytime soon. With HDR10+ hopefully coming soon to Samsung TV's and already owning an OLED with Dolby Vision, I might have the benefits of both worlds and all for £1750 I cannot complain.

[DJR662]

Hooked up the player directly to my 65ZD9 and did some quick testing with the HDR optimizer using Pacific Rim.

I left the player at its default "LCD medium/high luminance" setting. Might want to change it to "super high luminance" next time and see if it makes a difference (I guess the ZD9 deserves that moniker ). I also left all HDR optimizer fine tune settings at default. Don't know if I should be messing with the white and black tone curve settings for example. I'll leave that to the more knowledgeable members.

For reference: I use Geoff's HDR settings so that's contrast 86 in Pro mode for 1000 nits content and contrast 85 in Home mode for 4000 nits content. But I generally use Pro mode only and also used this when playing Pacific Rim.

When playing the movie, the overall PQ looks great as to be expected. I'm not going to pretend it looks better than my UB900 or X800, I think the PQ with these kind of players should look about the same.

At 1:45.38 there is a scene in which the Jaegers are dropped in the sea. I paused it there and when switching the HDR optimizer on, the brightest parts of the clouds do not seem as blown out as they would with the optimizer off. It looks more natural now without that overblown look in the brightest parts.

Second scene would be exactly the beginning of chapter 14, pausing it at 1:59.22. With the optimizer off, parts of the clouds look blown out (especially on the left side of the screen). Switching the optimizer on gets rid of the blown out look and reveals just a tad bit more detail here and there in some parts of the clouds. It's not a shocking difference but I do like how it gets rid of the blown out look of the white clouds.

Now turning the optimizer off and switching the TV to Home mode does about the same for both scenes as using the optimizer in Pro mode would do. However in doing so, the picture gets noticably dimmer. When using the optimizer in Pro mode however, it gets rid of the blown out parts but without making the entire screen look dimmer.

And that's all the testing I did so far for now. I wouldn't call it a massive improvement or difference, but I think it's a nice feauture nevertheless since it got rid of that blown out look. Perhaps this feature might be even more useful for other TVs.

Going to test it again tonight with my projector. That's why I bought the player for in the first place so I'm curious to see how that will work out.

Geoff, if you're reading this: Is there a test pattern on the S&M secone editon disc in order to find out whether edge correction should be set to 1 as you did with the UB900 (that is, if I'm able to tell at all if it should be used or not ).

[clevice]

Originally Posted by DJR662

Package received.

Hello

It's just like mine.

Do you have some advertising in front of Panasonic's display device?
my 824EGK had this advertising card like this image


https://www.hifi-journal.de/images/p...4-UB424-03.jpg


De PORTUGAL

.

[clevice]

Originally Posted by alien2010

Not sure about my friend's 2016 LG OLED. But the one I purchased was the B7. Also I purchased the UB820 (or UB824 as it is listed in some countries) Connected them both up on Friday evening, along with my old Yamaha YSP2200 Sound projector. After calibrating both the TV via Technicolour user mode, and recalibrating my sound projector I watched Dunkirk followed by Blade Runner 2049 The picture is absolutely mesmerising, the detail is great and the colour doesn't blur unlike LED's. The HDR Optimizer certainly helps and will be nice till the Dolby Vision firmware update comes along. Mind you all the 4K UBD's I have at the moment are non Dolby Vision compliant so the optimizer will be useful regardless.

Now with a 55 inch LG OLED and a 2017 50 inch Samsung 4K LED in the other room, I have no intention of upgrading anytime soon. With HDR10+ hopefully coming soon to Samsung TV's and already owning an OLED with Dolby Vision, I might have the benefits of both worlds and all for £1750 I cannot complain.

Hello

thank you

yes I know the LG OLED B7 well, it looks very good

but LG OLED 65E7 is superior, has won the EISA award

this year is the new E8 model

https://www.eisa.eu/awards/lg-oled65e7/?lang=pt-pt

De Portugal

.

[clevice]

Originally Posted by DJR662

When playing the movie, the overall PQ looks great as to be expected. I'm not going to pretend it looks better than my UB900 or X800, I think the PQ with these kind of players should look about the same.

).

Hello

the 820 or 824EGK requires a burn time of +/- 70 hours
to work at 100%

to compare with the UB900 or the Sony X800

I had the X800 and the 824 image seems a bit higher

my 824EGK does today +/- 60 hours of firing of components burning

De Portugal

.

[Geoff D]

@DJR662: yes, it's the Sharpness pattern you want.

[DJR662]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

@DJR662: yes, it's the Sharpness pattern you want.

Ah, ofcourse.

[wesslan]

Haha burntime in a player and LG E7 is "superior" to B7 in exactly what, less trashy feel....? Have read many funny things on this board but those take the top as of now

[DJR662]

Originally Posted by clevice

Hello

It's just like mine.

Do you have some advertising in front of Panasonic's display device?
my 824EGK had this advertising card like this image


https://www.hifi-journal.de/images/p...4-UB424-03.jpg


De PORTUGAL

.

Yeah, I put it on eBay. Since people have been going crazy over slipcovers, I figured I might as well try to sell this.

[clevice]

Hello



I'm looking for the Epson EH-TW9300 or TW9200

these are good ??

Does it consume much electricity ?

I want to watch television channels and watch bluray movies

or is it better an OLED 65" LG B7 or E7


De Portugal :Rocha:

.

[LordoftheRings]

Originally Posted by DJR662

Package received.

PLAY; it says on the player front display of the box picture.

[LordoftheRings]

Originally Posted by clevice

Hello
I'm looking for the Epson EH-TW9300 or TW9200
these are good ??
Does it consume much electricity ?
I want to watch television channels and watch bluray movies
or is it better an OLED 65" LG B7 or E7

De Portugal :Rocha:

* Internet Explorer browser; it leaves wide blank spaces between paragraphs.

1. Does size matter?
2. Does 3D part of your viewing pleasure?
3. Does Dolby Vision has any sounding attraction, marketing speaking, all that pizza slice?

If you answer yes to all the above except for #3, you have a clearer direction, particularly with #2.

Best of both worlds is to have both. Some Optoma front projectos have good reviews too; for both performance and excellent value. Of course it is always relative to each person's budget. ...PJs from $500 to $25,000+

Panasonic 820/824 4K BR player...Optimizer, HDR10+, and Dolby Vision...the full bastringue (all dressed pizza).

[clevice]

Originally Posted by LordoftheRings

* Internet Explorer browser; it leaves wide blank spaces between paragraphs.

1. Does size matter?
2. Does 3D part of your viewing pleasure?
3. Does Dolby Vision has any sounding attraction, marketing speaking, all that pizza slice?

If you answer yes to all the above except for #3, you have a clearer direction, particularly with #2.

Best of both worlds is to have both. Some Optoma front projectos have good reviews too; for both performance and excellent value. Of course it is always relative to each person's budget. ...PJs from $500 to $25,000+

Panasonic 820/824 4K BR player...Optimizer, HDR10+, and Dolby Vision...the full bastringue (all dressed pizza).

Thank you so much

1.Does size matter? R: Yes, I have Pany vt30 of 50 "and desired larger +/- 65"

2. Does 3D part of your viewing pleasure? R: No, I do not like wearing 3D glasses

3. Does Dolby Vision has any sounding attraction, marketing speaking, all that pizza slice? R: no, I am amateur I do not take advantage of the technology, but I like to have an excellent image


I'm looking for this 7300 good price

https://www.epson.de/en/products/pro...nema/eh-tw7300


De Portugal :Rocha:

[DJR662]

Played around with the Panasonic on my Sony 260ES projector (European model of the 285ES) last night. I just copied parts of my post in the 285ES owner's thread over at AVS. Note: photos were taken while playing on the 75Z9D.





With the HDR optimizer activated (at its default settings), the bright highlights will not look blown out anymore and details start to appear within it. For instance, the white hologram rings in front of Tendo are actually visible and full of detail whereas without the HDR optimizer they will appear as a bright, white massive mess. And there are many more examples like this throughout the whole movie. The HDR optimizer really brings out much more details in highlights while getting rid of that blown out look and therefore it provides a much more natural look to the picture. And this is achieved without making the entire screen go dimmer while HDR contrast is at max. Without the HDR optimizer, you would have to turn down the HDR contrast on the 285ES all the way down untill the picture becomes too dim to look at. Also when not using the HDR optimizer and setting HDR contrast at max, you would have a blown out picture even without the contrast enhancer disabled.

Besides Pacific Rim, I also watched scenes from other movies (both 1000 and 4000 nit mastered content) and they all look great and benefit from using the optimizer.




Here is a photo of the HDR optimizer menu. I have left everything at default zero. Dynamic Range Adjustment is the same option that was available on the Panasonic UB900 I believe, it brightnes or darkens the overall picture. You could set this higher if you think the picture is still too dim, setting it too high results in a washed out look though. Brightness is self explanatory. When lowering the white tone curve, you can raise the bright parts of the screen making it "pop" more. When raising the black tone curve, you can brighten the dark parts of the screen. Both are meant as finetuning and should be used cautiously I think, I left them at default for now. If used, I'm not sure if these can be used as general settings or should be set up for each movie or content. When hitting the HDR optimizer button on the remote once during playback of a movie, it brings out a couple of presets that work the same as the Dynamic Range Adjustment setting found in the menu above (which is accessed by holding down the HDR optimizer button on the remote during playback).


So my first impressions while using the Panasonic with my projector are great, I think it does benefit a whole lot more from it than my TVs. Looking forward in actually watching a movie cause all I did now was pausing stuff and switching between settings. I also tried using the HDR optimizer in conjunction with my custom gamma curves and although it does work, I prefer not using them while the optimizer is activated. The picture is still a bit brighter when using the custom curves (which was the objective of those) but it doesn't provide an as natural looking picture as with the optimizer.

Very satisfied with my purchase.

[pathfinder2810]

Does anyone have the chance to try 820 with older video projectors?

[HeavyHitter]

Originally Posted by DJR662

Played around with the Panasonic on my Sony 260ES projector (European model of the 285ES) last night. I just copied parts of my post in the 285ES owner's thread over at AVS. Note: photos were taken while playing on the 75Z9D.





With the HDR optimizer activated (at its default settings), the bright highlights will not look blown out anymore and details start to appear within it. For instance, the white hologram rings in front of Tendo are actually visible and full of detail whereas without the HDR optimizer they will appear as a bright, white massive mess. And there are many more examples like this throughout the whole movie. The HDR optimizer really brings out much more details in highlights while getting rid of that blown out look and therefore it provides a much more natural look to the picture. And this is achieved without making the entire screen go dimmer while HDR contrast is at max. Without the HDR optimizer, you would have to turn down the HDR contrast on the 285ES all the way down untill the picture becomes too dim to look at. Also when not using the HDR optimizer and setting HDR contrast at max, you would have a blown out picture even without the contrast enhancer disabled.

Besides Pacific Rim, I also watched scenes from other movies (both 1000 and 4000 nit mastered content) and they all look great and benefit from using the optimizer.




Here is a photo of the HDR optimizer menu. I have left everything at default zero. Dynamic Range Adjustment is the same option that was available on the Panasonic UB900 I believe, it brightnes or darkens the overall picture. You could set this higher if you think the picture is still too dim, setting it too high results in a washed out look though. Brightness is self explanatory. When raising the white tone curve, you can raise the bright parts of the screen making it "pop" more. When raising the black tone curve, you can brighten the dark parts of the screen. Both are meant as finetuning and should be used cautiously I think, I left them at default for now. If used, I'm not sure if these can be used as general settings or should be set up for each movie or content. When hitting the HDR optimizer button on the remote once during playback of a movie, it brings out a couple of presets that work the same as the Dynamic Range Adjustment setting found in the menu above (which is accessed by holding down the HDR optimizer button on the remote during playback).


So my first impressions while using the Panasonic with my projector are great, I think it does benefit a whole lot more from it than my TVs. Looking forward in actually watching a movie cause all I did now was pausing stuff and switching between settings. I also tried using the HDR optimizer in conjunction with my custom gamma curves and although it does work, I prefer not using them while the optimizer is activated. The picture is still a bit brighter when using the custom curves (which was the objective of those) but it doesn't provide an as natural looking picture as with the optimizer.

Very satisfied with my purchase.

Thanks for the projector review. Looking forward to this player. What projector mode did you use with the HDR optimizer?

[ronboster]

DJR662

Thanks for the review......reading your projector combo review got me excited about the new player. Hopefully, Robert can talk Panasonic into an early shipment of units?!?!?

[DJR662]

Originally Posted by HeavyHitter

Thanks for the projector review. Looking forward to this player. What projector mode did you use with the HDR optimizer?

If you mean my projector's picture mode, that would be "reference", which should be one of the most accurate picture modes from which you can choose.

On the Panasonic I chose the "Projector/LCD average brightness" mode.