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Go Back   Blu-ray Forum > Audio > Pre/Pro, Amplifiers and Separate Systems
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Old 01-25-2009, 04:59 AM   #11
BLindsay BLindsay is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blu-Dog View Post
Bridged, the QSC is about 850W. But a word on power ratings for car subs: Don't believe the hype. Car amps aren't anywhere near as linear in power output as line-powered amps (hence the use of caps to keep the output high), and a good line amp will fry the coils on the average car sub at sustained levels.

You can get away with much lower power levels, and it will be cleaner, with a typical line amp. Even the QSC 850 in non-bridged mode has plenty of power for your purposes.

The R12 line are power hogs - but they are very clean, so once you get past the minimal power level (I'd guess 50 to 75 watts), they're going to deliver for home theater just fine. Peaks probably shouldn't exceed 300 watts for more than a few seconds. You could get another R12 and really make some noise if you wanted.

Think it over - it's a bit of work, but it would definitely pay off in the right sealed box. I have two Infinity DVC 10" in my pickup - 4 ohm setup - and they are very, very, very clean, driven by a 300 watt amp.
Arent caps more so for a bandaid for crappy power systems in cars, i have a 140amp alternator in my car and a battery the size of a small boat lol. i use to have a JL 1000/1 and id stake that against most home audio amps.

it would be nice to find an amp that has a low pass filter built in so i dont have to grab an external crossover of the sorts, but if i have to i have to.

Yeah i like my type r12 alot for the money. My question though, as a driver how does it compare to the raw driver in the a2-300? if i do end up getting a good amp to drive my r12 is it gonna be better then the a2-300?

sealed box? i have a nice ported box built very soild to alpine specs, should i really switch to sealed, arent alot of home theater subs ported anyways?
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