Panasonic UB820/UB9000 4K UHD Blu-ray player

[waxHead]

Originally Posted by morris_schaffer

Setting resolution to 4k instead of auto prevented my Netflix app on the player to load. Just got a black screen, Dolby Vision popped up briefly top right corner, but it was clear Netflix didn't work. When I switched back to auto the app started correctly. Perhaps this isn't as clear cut?

I only use the 820 to play discs. I've read that the internal apps (Netflix, etc) don't work very well on the 820.

Regarding the "Resolution" == "4K" setting, I've only tested that with 4K disc playback and it's worked well, but I have no idea if that negatively impacts other methods of disc playback.

This is precisely why I would like a settings explanation/FAQ in the OP.

[sapiendut]

I set my resolution as 4K but never had any problem with streaming apps.

But yeah, the streaming apps are sucky. I use Nvidia Shield Pro instead now.

[pbz06]

Originally Posted by morris_schaffer

Setting resolution to 4k instead of auto prevented my Netflix app on the player to load. Just got a black screen, Dolby Vision popped up briefly top right corner, but it was clear Netflix didn't work. When I switched back to auto the app started correctly. Perhaps this isn't as clear cut?

I would like to ask something Else. It seems my 820 reverts to Dolby Vision as standard for Netflix so even a show like Better call Saul, which to my knowledge does not support DV, is shown in DV. Does this mean I need to disable DV in the settings each time I know I'm gonna watch something that doesn't support DV and then enable when I watch something that does? Or can I leave as is since DV enabled is always the best option even for content that doesn't support it?

EDIT: in addition, Dolby Vision shows to have 3 presets, dark, bright and vivid I believe. I assume dark is the one to pick here, but I was surprised that the oled light was at 50 when I was watching Netflix Star Trek Discovery. Since I assumed that dolby vision, a type of HDR needs to have both contrast and oled light at maximum (100) to ensure maximum yield for such content. So why would oled light be at 50% instead? and sure, I can change it to 100, but should I? since there's got to be a reason for the oled light to start at 50 for DV-enabled TV shows.

Thanks.

edit - see wxman's explanation below

But yes, DV Dark is the recommended for accurate "creator intent", but feel free to use DV Bright if you need to.

[wxman2003]

Originally Posted by morris_schaffer

Setting resolution to 4k instead of auto prevented my Netflix app on the player to load. Just got a black screen, Dolby Vision popped up briefly top right corner, but it was clear Netflix didn't work. When I switched back to auto the app started correctly. Perhaps this isn't as clear cut?

I would like to ask something Else. It seems my 820 reverts to Dolby Vision as standard for Netflix so even a show like Better call Saul, which to my knowledge does not support DV, is shown in DV. Does this mean I need to disable DV in the settings each time I know I'm gonna watch something that doesn't support DV and then enable when I watch something that does? Or can I leave as is since DV enabled is always the best option even for content that doesn't support it?

EDIT: in addition, Dolby Vision shows to have 3 presets, dark, bright and vivid I believe. I assume dark is the one to pick here, but I was surprised that the oled light was at 50 when I was watching Netflix Star Trek Discovery. Since I assumed that dolby vision, a type of HDR needs to have both contrast and oled light at maximum (100) to ensure maximum yield for such content. So why would oled light be at 50% instead? and sure, I can change it to 100, but should I? since there's got to be a reason for the oled light to start at 50 for DV-enabled TV shows.

Thanks.

50 is the correct setting for DV. The higher you raise OLED light, the more you clip highlights and wash out the picture. The higher you raise it, the more you lower gamma and it messes up the picture. If you want a brighter picture just use DV bright room, but leave OLED light at 50. The problem with DV on our 2016 tv’s, (I have an E6) is that DV Dark crushes everything below 2%, whereas DV Bright only crushes below 1%. So I use DV bright.

So with DV, OLED light should be 50. On the newer tv’s, OLED light is 100 with DV, and is equivalent to 50 on our tv. Anything higher messes up the DV tone mapping.

LG messed up with OLED light setting on the 2016 models and stated 50 is correct with DV.

[morris_schaffer]

Originally Posted by wxman2003

50 is the correct setting for DV. The higher you raise OLED light, the more you clip highlights and wash out the picture. The higher you raise it, the more you lower gamma and it messes up the picture. If you want a brighter picture just use DV bright room, but leave OLED light at 50. The problem with DV on our 2016 tv’s, (I have an E6) is that DV Dark crushes everything below 2%, whereas DV Bright only crushes below 1%. So I use DV bright.
.

But you wouldn't say that DV bright is unnaturally bright, even in pretty lowlight conditions? Which is pretty much the conditions of my room.

[Waboman]

Originally Posted by pbz06

But yes, DV Dark is the recommended for accurate "creator intent"

Is this true? Serious question. I don't know. I toggle between DV dark/bright. Can't decide on one. I may try and use the internal apps of my tv.

[wxman2003]

Originally Posted by morris_schaffer

But you wouldn't say that DV bright is unnaturally bright, even in pretty lowlight conditions? Which is pretty much the conditions of my room.

Since DV can't be calibrated on 2016 OLEDs, use the setting you prefer the most. DV dark crushes too much detail. I will suffer with a brighter than normal image than crushing everything 2% and lower with DV dark. The 2016 OLEDs are not all that good with HDR10 or DV. They are not accurate. DV cant be calibrated, HDR calibration is extremely primitive, so whatever setting you are using, you are not seeing the directors intent. So just use the picture mode that you prefer the most. Sometimes I think we are better off watching the SDR version instead of the HDR or DV version on these 2016 models, as SDR is more accurate out of the box compared to DV and HDR10.

[pbz06]

Originally Posted by Waboman

Is this true? Serious question. I don't know. I toggle between DV dark/bright. Can't decide on one. I may try and use the internal apps of my tv.

That's what I've read and seen from various videos. DV is mastered in dark room but it can be too dark for a lot of people. Honestly I would just use what looks best to your eyes in your room.

[Waboman]

Originally Posted by pbz06

That's what I've read and seen from various videos. DV is mastered in dark room but it can be too dark for a lot of people. Honestly I would just use what looks best to your eyes in your room.

Yeah, there's times dark looks good and times bright looks good. Lol. Indecision may or may not be my problem. Do you think the internal apps of tv provide a better picture than using an external device?

[wxman2003]

Originally Posted by Waboman

Yeah, there's times dark looks good and times bright looks good. Lol. Indecision may or may not be my problem. Do you think the internal apps of tv provide a better picture than using an external device?

I use the internal apps on my E6 whenever I can. With my ATV4K, DV blacks are elevated, not on the apps. Second, the ATV4k can not do 24.000 fps correctly, while the internal apps can. Some devices only do DV at 60 fps not native 23.976, and the E6 can not handle that format. So I use the internal apps to watch 4K DV @23.976fps. So unless the app is not available on my E6, I always use the apps on my tv first.

[pbz06]

Originally Posted by Waboman

Yeah, there's times dark looks good and times bright looks good. Lol. Indecision may or may not be my problem. Do you think the internal apps of tv provide a better picture than using an external device?

Yup, on some shows DV Dark is definitely too dark for my tastes (even in dark room), and it's darker than when comparing to HDR10 (on Shield I can disable DV). But then also some content, Bright looks too washed out and not right. I know that Dnice swears that Bright is correct and equivalent to HDR10 but I don't completely agree.

Internal apps, I've only noticed them being better with live content (i.e. sports). I've seen the crowd that's all like "omg so much better!" But most of that is confirmation or suggestion bias, and I don't put too much stock in anecdotal impressions that lean towards exaggerated.

To me, comparing apps from nvidia shield pro vs internal apps, both look equally good and if there are any differences it would be in the margins or negligible.

[JWgrayhawk]

Originally Posted by Waboman

Indecision may or may not be my problem.

I assume you did this on purpose... Regardless, hilarious line!

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by Waboman

Yeah, there's times dark looks good and times bright looks good. Lol. Indecision may or may not be my problem. Do you think the internal apps of tv provide a better picture than using an external device?

Yeah, I would use the internal apps from the TV as they are specifically formatted for your TV. You don't have to worry about any extra settings from your external device. I will say though, you will need to adjust your picture settings for some apps just to make sure they are the same settings that you would use to watch movies (like Dolby Vision on Disney +). My TV was calibrated so all I had to do is make sure the motion settings are off when this happens and I'm good.

The 820 is mainly used for 4K UHD, Blu-ray, DVD, and Music/CD playback. Although you can use apps on the device, they seem to be finicky at best. The device always seems to lock up on me when I hit the Netflix button, so I avoid the apps.

Now, the reason why I just set mine to strictly 4K Resolution is that I was having a handshake issue when playing a blu-ray movie. The TV would lose signal for a split second before the signal would return. This happened when I set it to "Auto." When I set it to 4K, the problem was gone. I feel like the only reason why you would want it to be on Auto is that if you used it on multiple devices and that some of those devices were not full 4K. But since use my 820 on my 4K screen, it makes sense just to strictly leave it on 4K. That way I know I'm getting the full resolution out of it.

[panasonicst60]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

Yeah, I would use the internal apps from the TV as they are specifically formatted for your TV. You don't have to worry about any extra settings from your external device. I will say though, you will need to adjust your picture settings for some apps just to make sure they are the same settings that you would use to watch movies (like Dolby Vision on Disney +). My TV was calibrated so all I had to do is make sure the motion settings are off when this happens and I'm good.

The 820 is mainly used for 4K UHD, Blu-ray, DVD, and Music/CD playback. Although you can use apps on the device, they seem to be finicky at best. The device always seems to lock up on me when I hit the Netflix button, so I avoid the apps.

Now, the reason why I just set mine to strictly 4K Resolution is that I was having a handshake issue when playing a blu-ray movie. The TV would lose signal for a split second before the signal would return. This happened when I set it to "Auto." When I set it to 4K, the problem was gone. I feel like the only reason why you would want it to be on Auto is that if you used it on multiple devices and that some of those devices were not full 4K. But since use my 820 on my 4K screen, it makes sense just to strictly leave it on 4K. That way I know I'm getting the full resolution out of it.

How long of an HDMI cable are you using?

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by panasonicst60

How long of an HDMI cable are you using?

Monoprice's 6 ft 4K HDMI Cables. I'm using their 48 Gbps cables. But I also tested the issue out using my other cables from Monoprice that are just regular 18 Gbps 4K cables. It did the exact same thing when testing both. It may be my player just having an issue but it's fixed just setting it strictly to 4K. Even when set to Auto and it has the handshake issue, the signal comes back listing it as 4K.

[morris_schaffer]

You know, in my settings it says 'automatic (4k)' rather than simply automatic. And I have another preset called just 4k. Is that what you're Seeing? I too have been experiencing this phenomenon where video cuts out 2 secs and then reappears. Not every movie though, I can't say I saw a pattern, but it never went away either. Last time was with die hard uhd. That was with the Xbox one x as the player though, I have yet to play a disc on the 802. Can I assume that was also the handshake at play?

[gottaget]

Can anyone tell me what might have happened while I was watching Coco 4K?

Basically at about 55 minutes the image became distorted (blocky), but it kept playing and resolved itself in about 4 seconds. It has never done this in the 5-6 times I've played the disc before. When I rewound to the scene it happened, I saw it again while being rewound and when I played it again. It did this maybe 2-3 times after, then it stopped and just played the scene without any hiccups. So what happened?

[rickardl]

Originally Posted by gottaget

Can anyone tell me what might have happened while I was watching Coco 4K?

Basically at about 55 minutes the image became distorted (blocky), but it kept playing and resolved itself in about 4 seconds. It's never done this in the 5-6 times I've played the disc before. When I rewound to the scene it happened, I saw it again while being rewound and when I played it again. It did this maybe 2-3 times after, then it stopped and just played the scene without any hiccups. So what happened?

Nope but I had this experience

Originally Posted by rickardl

This is weird... earlier I reported that I had no issues with Black Hawk Down 4K Extended cut/Atmos except one audio wobble during end titles with my 820.
Now when I sampled it again, I had freezes and audio drop outs for a few secs!
And repeatable as well, always the same places.
After a hard reset ("08 FIN") and setup again, the freezes/audio drop outs are gone...
Fingers crossed that they stay gone.

1. Turn the unit OFF.
2. Press and hold [OK], the [Yellow] button and the [Blue] button on the remote control at the same time for more than 5 seconds.
“00 RET” is displayed on the unit’s display.
3. Press [►] right repeatedly on the remote control until “08 FIN” is displayed on the unit’s display.
4. Press and hold [OK] for more than 5 seconds

[kevers7290]

Aside from the "high clarity audio" feature, is there any way to disable the display during movie playback? If no, is there any drawback to using HCA during movie viewing (ie will it affect picture quality)?

[Helikaon]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

Yeah, I would use the internal apps from the TV as they are specifically formatted for your TV. You don't have to worry about any extra settings from your external device. I will say though, you will need to adjust your picture settings for some apps just to make sure they are the same settings that you would use to watch movies (like Dolby Vision on Disney +). My TV was calibrated so all I had to do is make sure the motion settings are off when this happens and I'm good.

The 820 is mainly used for 4K UHD, Blu-ray, DVD, and Music/CD playback. Although you can use apps on the device, they seem to be finicky at best. The device always seems to lock up on me when I hit the Netflix button, so I avoid the apps.

Now, the reason why I just set mine to strictly 4K Resolution is that I was having a handshake issue when playing a blu-ray movie. The TV would lose signal for a split second before the signal would return. This happened when I set it to "Auto." When I set it to 4K, the problem was gone. I feel like the only reason why you would want it to be on Auto is that if you used it on multiple devices and that some of those devices were not full 4K. But since use my 820 on my 4K screen, it makes sense just to strictly leave it on 4K. That way I know I'm getting the full resolution out of it.

I had the same issue watching the 4K Game of Thrones set. All issues went away after I set it to 4K instead of Auto.