Panasonic UB820/UB9000 4K UHD Blu-ray player

[Snikt]

Just curious guys, how often have you seen the F99 pop up on your UB820. It doesn’t happen all the time. I know what it means, but I can’t seem to pinpoint what causes it. It’s like it gets hung up if I have too many devices turned on before I turn on the player.

[dcx4610]

Watched my first movie on the UB-9000 coming from the 820. I was pretty surprised at how much quieter everything is. With the 820, the disc tray is pretty loud and you can hear the motor for a good 2 minutes before things quiet down. With the 9000, the eject is quiet and it stays quite from the get go.

Is it worth an additional $500+? Yeah, probably not but if you can afford it, so far so good.

[Snikt]

Originally Posted by Snikt

Just curious guys, how often have you seen the F99 pop up on your UB820. It doesn’t happen all the time. I know what it means, but I can’t seem to pinpoint what causes it. It’s like it gets hung up if I have too many devices turned on before I turn on the player.

Anybody?

[mutateinsanely]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

Someone else came up with DigiSmear™️ for the Paramount DNR

I like that........I like it alot.

[chip75]

Originally Posted by Snikt

Anybody?

Haven't seen it yet.

[MooneyRara]

My 820 stopped reading discs. It needs a new drive.

[Snikt]

Originally Posted by MooneyRara

My 820 stopped reading discs. It needs a new drive.

I’m sorry dude. That sucks. I just ordered a new ub820; want to see if I got a defective unit or if the F99 error is happening to both units due to the order in which I power on the player.

Did you guys turn it on by using the power button or the open/close button on the remote (something I’ve always done with all my players since the dvd days)?

[MooneyRara]

Originally Posted by Snikt

I’m sorry dude. That sucks. I just ordered a new ub820; want to see if I got a defective unit or if the F99 error is happening to both units due to the order in which I power on the player.

Did you guys turn it on by using the power button or the open/close button on the remote (something I’ve always done with all my players since the dvd days)?

Just the power. Never seen that F99 error. Hope that replacement unit works out for you. Good luck!

[Cherokee Jack]

Originally Posted by Snikt

I’m sorry dude. That sucks. I just ordered a new ub820; want to see if I got a defective unit or if the F99 error is happening to both units due to the order in which I power on the player.

Did you guys turn it on by using the power button or the open/close button on the remote (something I’ve always done with all my players since the dvd days)?

I often use the open/close button with the unit powered off and have never had an error message.

[stvn1974]

I just finished setting up the UB820, screw you Sony.

[mutateinsanely]

Nice avatar Bub.

[Snikt]

Originally Posted by Snikt

Just curious guys, how often have you seen the F99 pop up on your UB820. It doesn’t happen all the time. I know what it means, but I can’t seem to pinpoint what causes it. It’s like it gets hung up if I have too many devices turned on before I turn on the player.

So the new player does the same thing. It gets hung up, randomly, when I turn it on. Either with the power button, the play button or the open/close button. I have the player connected to my Samsung tv, and connected to my home theater system using the 2 different hdmi ports.

I decided to use the “quick start,” feature. That seems to have done the trick. No hang ups or stalling anymore. Anybody else ever have this issue?

[Geoff D]

Found another bug/quirk of the HDR Optimiser. I was watching Superman III on UHD and seeing if I could tame the brightest, smallest speculars which run well over 3000 nits, indeed, the MaxCLL metadata shows 3200+ nits. Toggled the Optimiser on and off (set to Medium/High a.k.a. 1000 nits as the tone mapping threshold) and it's not doing anything. Literally nothing. Huh.

The highlight detail isn't clipped in the source, as when I adjust the contrast I can bring out the speculars that are being clipped by my ZD9 TV (which tops out at 1800 nits calibrated and clips what's above that). So what gives? Well, while the disc's MaxCLL is 3200+ nits, the mastering display metadata is only at 1000 nits, so even though the Optimiser is supposed to look at MaxCLL first, mastering display second, whichever is greater, it seems to be verr confuse that the mastering display level is *lower* than the MaxCLL. That the former is set to 1000 nits would explain why the HDR Optimiser isn't doing anything when set to Medium/High (1000), as it doesn't think there's anything else there. When set to Basic (500 nits) then it does map it down a little, but only what's present between 500 and 1000 nits in the signal, as it still thinks it's only got 1000 nits as the maximum there, so the speculars are still clipped.

This is another reason why I could never, ever leave the Optimiser on all the time and be confident I was always seeing a properly mapped version, feels like I'm always having to second guess it whereas at least with my TV's limitations I know exactly where they are and what they do.

[Kirk Out]

I guess it’s best to leave the optimizer off and let my tv tone map

[djpalacios91]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

Found another bug/quirk of the HDR Optimiser. I was watching Superman III on UHD and seeing if I could tame the brightest, smallest speculars which run well over 3000 nits, indeed, the MaxCLL metadata shows 3200+ nits. Toggled the Optimiser on and off (set to Medium/High a.k.a. 1000 nits as the tone mapping threshold) and it's not doing anything. Literally nothing. Huh.

The highlight detail isn't clipped in the source, as when I adjust the contrast I can bring out the speculars that are being clipped by my ZD9 TV (which tops out at 1800 nits calibrated and clips what's above that). So what gives? Well, while the disc's MaxCLL is 3200+ nits, the mastering display metadata is only at 1000 nits, so even though the Optimiser is supposed to look at MaxCLL first, mastering display second, whichever is greater, it seems to be verr confuse that the mastering display level is *lower* than the MaxCLL. That the former is set to 1000 nits would explain why the HDR Optimiser isn't doing anything when set to Medium/High (1000), as it doesn't think there's anything else there. When set to Basic (500 nits) then it does map it down a little, but only what's present between 500 and 1000 nits in the signal, as it still thinks it's only got 1000 nits as the maximum there, so the speculars are still clipped.

This is another reason why I could never, ever leave the Optimiser on all the time and be confident I was always seeing a properly mapped version, feels like I'm always having to second guess it whereas at least with my TV's limitations I know exactly where they are and what they do.

It's moments like this when one realizes one pays a hefty sum for features/functionality that never quite live up to the standard. It's honestly disappointing to hear this because it's one of the big reasons I shelled out the money for this device, and to read your experience makes me frustrated the device can't be trusted to work as advertised.

Along with the issue this thing won't mix DTS to PCM so my Sonos can function with DTS:MA UHDs, I have to have two devices where just one should suffice.

[chip75]

Originally Posted by djpalacios91

It's moments like this when one realizes one pays a hefty sum for features/functionality that never quite live up to the standard. It's honestly disappointing to hear this because it's one of the big reasons I shelled out the money for this device, and to read your experience makes me frustrated the device can't be trusted to work as advertised.

Well that's the issue, the standard, HDR is the Wild West of video, but even in the West folks had to sometimes leave their pistols at the door.

All this, in what's a adjusting settings for better gameplay world could have been avoided with some foresight. Give casual viewers as little to do as possible with presets, but give tweak freaks the tools to change things and give them accurate disc specs to adjust accordingly.

But we still live in a world where most folks don't know HDR needs a dark room and streaming services don't give an easy option to turn to SDR for folks watching in the daytime.

[Marsstudd]

Originally Posted by chip75

Well that's the issue, the standard, HDR is the Wild West of video, but even in the West folks had to sometimes leave their pistols at the door.

All this, in what's a adjusting settings for better gameplay world could have been avoided with some foresight. Give casual viewers as little to do as possible with presets, but give tweak freaks the tools to change things and give them accurate disc specs to adjust accordingly.

But we still live in a world where most folks don't know HDR needs a dark room and streaming services don't give an easy option to turn to SDR for folks watching in the daytime.

So I have a LG C8 television and I was wondering if I should still turn off my HDR optimizer? I don’t understand enough about nits to fully understand which is best, through my tv or through my UB9000.

[chip75]

Originally Posted by Marsstudd

So I have a LG C8 television and I was wondering if I should still turn off my HDR optimizer? I don’t understand enough about nits to fully understand which is best, through my tv or through my UB9000.

It's very worth much experimenting. Also if you're watching Dolby Vision content the Optimizer isn't applicable.

You'll also get the best out of experimenting with the Spears disc as it has such a plethora of content to see what's happening with your display.

[nothingtogein]

Just picked this player up and I'm having issues connecting it to the internet....hoping somebody here can help me out.

My LAN Connection Mode is set to Wireless and my wireless settings say I'm connected to my home network (a 5G connection, if that matters), however there is no internet connection. I'm not savvy with this stuff and I'm just stumped at this point, so any help would be appreciated.

I originally had the IP address set to auto detect....I should have saved a picture of the exact notification it gave me, but it said something to the effect of there being an issue with the configuration of the IP address on the router. I found this puzzling since I'm connected to the router, and the router is connected to the internet (as evidenced by all of my other devices). So I decided to manually change the IP address field on the player to match the IP of my router. This did not help lol. Everything still shows I'm connected to my home network, but still no internet connection.

[Pagey123]

Originally Posted by nothingtogein

Just picked this player up and I'm having issues connecting it to the internet....hoping somebody here can help me out.

My LAN Connection Mode is set to Wireless and my wireless settings say I'm connected to my home network (a 5G connection, if that matters), however there is no internet connection. I'm not savvy with this stuff and I'm just stumped at this point, so any help would be appreciated.

I originally had the IP address set to auto detect....I should have saved a picture of the exact notification it gave me, but it said something to the effect of there being an issue with the configuration of the IP address on the router. I found this puzzling since I'm connected to the router, and the router is connected to the internet (as evidenced by all of my other devices). So I decided to manually change the IP address field on the player to match the IP of my router. This did not help lol. Everything still shows I'm connected to my home network, but still no internet connection.

Can you tell us the IP address scheme used by your router. For example, my Asus router uses a 192.168.50.0/24 Class C addressing scheme. This has a range of addresses from 192.168.50.1 (this is usually reserved by the router's "inside" interface and is often called the Gateway IP address) to 192.168.50.254 (the last address of 192.168.50.255 is reserved as a "broadcast" address and can't be used). Then entire 16 bit range of 192.168.0.0/16 is reserved as "private" and is used by pretty much every home router out there. Most routers hand out about 100 addresses from whatever scheme they are using. If you have a laptop or PC running Windows connected, you can open a Cmd Prompt and type "ipconfig /all" (no quotes) and get the current IP address being used by that device. For example, my laptop is currently using an IP of 192.168.50.9, which is a DHCP lease (meaning temporary) assigned by my Asus router. If I wanted to manually assign an IP address, I would need to pick one that is valid (192.168.50.2 to 192.168.50.254) and is NOT already in use by another device, whether assigned static or DHCP. If you assign your BD player an IP address manually, and it's already in use (e.g., if you gave it the same IP as your router's inside interface), it would fail, as your BD player is now your "Internet Gateway". So, if you are assigning a manual IP, make sure you are not using an address in use already; make sure you are NOT using the Gateway address assigned to your router's "inside" interface; make sure the subnet mask is set to 255.255.255.0 (Class C, essentially).