Panasonic UB820/UB9000 4K UHD Blu-ray player

[Wes_k089]

Anyone know what's new with the 1.82 firmware? I just updated yesterday.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by johnny-torrance

I I'm gonna get a new HDMI cable too, what do you guys recommend?

I would recommend these from Monoprice:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=42682


I love these because they have a little give to them with the braided jacket. They also just released another braided cable that looks even more durable. But that's up to you on that.

[Yearbook]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

I would recommend these from Monoprice:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=42682


I love these because they have a little give to them with the braided jacket. They also just released another braided cable that looks even more durable. But that's up to you on that.

I can also vouch for these. I was getting frequent dropouts in Dolby Vision with my LG TV going through a Vizio soundbar to the 820. Three different cables and various frequency of dropouts, but got these to all the connections and have been good since.

[sojrner]

Originally Posted by Wes_k089

Anyone know what's new with the 1.82 firmware? I just updated yesterday.

Covered multiple times in this thread, but, basically, if your Dolby Vision display is not capable of more than 1200 nits and supports display-led DV, the player will send it that way. In any sub-1200-nit scenario, you will not see anything different for settings AFAIK. You gain the option to toggle player or display led DV if your display supports it and it's brightness reaches above the 1200 nit threshold. You can search through this thread or do some creative googling for more details.

[sfmarine]

Originally Posted by Wes_k089

Anyone know what's new with the 1.82 firmware? I just updated yesterday.

From the description on the Panasonic website.

” Playability of Ultra HD Blu-ray Disc™”

Subtle… I believe the major change focused on Dolby Vision when it comes to switching from TV-led or player-led within a certain nit range.

[johnny-torrance]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

I would recommend these from Monoprice:

I love these because they have a little give to them with the braided jacket. They also just released another braided cable that looks even more durable. But that's up to you on that.

I actually have one of these in my cart at Amazon, but it's not a braided one. It's this one actually: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08X6SS9QB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

Now is there a major difference between braided and ones that aren't? All I've heard so far is that the non-braided ones are more flexible?

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by johnny-torrance

I actually have one of these in my cart at Amazon, but it's not a braided one. It's this one actually: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08X6SS9QB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

Now is there a major difference between braided and ones that aren't? All I've heard so far is that the non-braided ones are more flexible?

There is a difference. Non-braided ones generally are more stiff. The ones you have in your cart are pretty stiff from what I can tell. The ones I recommended I own and I can tell you they are flexible and durable.

[BXR 1138]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

There is a difference. Non-braided ones generally are more stiff. The ones you have in your cart are pretty stiff from what I can tell. The ones I recommended I own and I can tell you they are flexible and durable.

lol no. 30 AWG is not stiff. Braided cables are stiffer. And HDMI 2.1 is overkill for a UHD player, you just need one that can hit 18Gpbs. But as long as the cable is HDMI 2.0 and above and in spec it'll be fine.

inb4 someone recommends $50+ cables again.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by BXR 1138

lol no. 30 AWG is not stiff. Braided cables are stiffer. And HDMI 2.1 is overkill for a UHD player, you just need one that can hit 18Gpbs. But as long as the cable is HDMI 2.0 and above and in spec it'll be fine.

inb4 someone recommends $50+ cables again.

I have the cables I recommended him. They are a heck of a lot more fleixble than say these, which I also have:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15429

They aren't going to bend at will to any shape but they are easier to work with than other cables I have had.

As to HDMI 2.1 cables, it just covers the bases. Plus, they run pretty much the same price as HDMI 2.0 cables or at least around that price so you might as well go big or go home.

[BXR 1138]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

I have the cables I recommended him. They are a heck of a lot more fleixble than say these, which I also have:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15429

That's cool, but that's not the 30 AWG one I was referring to.

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

As to HDMI 2.1 cables, it just covers the bases. Plus, they run pretty much the same price as HDMI 2.0 cables or at least around that price

For uncertified cables, this is generally true.

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

so you might as well go big or go home.

Ehh, if you're eventually going to repurpose the cable for an HDMI 2.1 box, sure. But it ain't gonna make a lick of difference for UHD.

[PUsokrJosh305]

Originally Posted by BXR 1138

That's cool, but that's not the 30 AWG one I was referring to.


For uncertified cables, this is generally true.


Ehh, if you're eventually going to repurpose the cable for an HDMI 2.1 box, sure. But it ain't gonna make a lick of difference for UHD.

Which cable were you referring to then?

Certified cables, depending on the sale, can be cheaper than non-certified.

And although that's true, I always like to have peace in mind knowing I bought a certified high end cable that is capable of more even though the device might not take advantage of those capabilities.

The OP wanted suggestions and I gave him my own, especially since I actually own the cables and have had great experiences with them.

[BXR 1138]

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

Which cable were you referring to then?

The one the guy was asking about, lol:

Originally Posted by johnny-torrance

I actually have one of these in my cart at Amazon, but it's not a braided one. It's this one actually: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08X6SS9QB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

Originally Posted by PUsokrJosh305

The OP wanted suggestions and I gave him my own, especially since I actually own the cables and have had great experiences with them.

Yeah man that's fine, I was addressing the query about flexibility. Also if someone has an 18Gbps cable laying around (from, say, a PS4 Pro or other HDMI 2.0 device that they no longer use), they can just appropriate that cable instead of buying a new one. Just throwing out an alternative that other folks who read the thread can try before going down the HDMI rabbit hole.

[FilmFreakosaurus]

One thing that is normally added with player firmware updates... fresh disc encryption key codes. Yes, sometimes they miss a few of the newest titles if their authoring methodology has changed.

[jess1581]

Ok, what should I do when I have a UHD that has both DV and HDR-10+, because the player prioritizes HDR-10+ over DV when it plays. Do I manually turn off HDR-10+ or just let it be, because visually it's not even a big deal? Either one is good?

[BXR 1138]

Originally Posted by jess1581

Ok, what should I do when I have a UHD that has both DV and HDR-10+, because the player prioritizes HDR-10+ over DV when it plays. Do I manually turn off HDR-10+ or just let it be, because visually it's not even a big deal? Either one is good?

Does your TV support both or just Dolby Vision? If it's just Dolby Vision and still the player forces HDR10+ on the disc in question, then turn it off. I mean, if your TV doesn't support HDR10+ you should turn it off on the Panasonic anyway.

[jess1581]

Originally Posted by BXR 1138

Does your TV support both or just Dolby Vision? If it's just Dolby Vision and still the player forces HDR10+ on the disc in question, then turn it off. I mean, if your TV doesn't support HDR10+ you should turn it off on the Panasonic anyway.

It supports both which is why the player turns it on instead of DV. I'm just wondering if I should care or not? I have UHD's that have HDR10+ so I keep it on, but when I put in a disc like say JAWS or Back to the Future which has both HDR formats, the player chooses 10+ over DV. Ideally I'd rather it not matter and just go with the flow. That 10+ is no slouch and I'm good with either/or.

[BXR 1138]

Originally Posted by jess1581

It supports both which is why the player turns it on instead of DV. I'm just wondering if I should care or not? I have UHD's that have HDR10+ so I keep it on, but when I put in a disc like say JAWS or Back to the Future which has both HDR formats, the player chooses 10+ over DV. Ideally I'd rather it not matter and just go with the flow. That 10+ is no slouch and I'm good with either/or.

Then you can just leave it on, unless for some reason you really want to see a particular disc in Dolby Vision only (e.g. Dolby Vision compensates for a subpar HDR10 base layer better).

[Driver78]

Originally Posted by wormraper

yup, it has a 15 minute auto shutoff. but it will stay completely active and visible to all that it's on until that auto shutoff activates.

Then it's definitely not what I suspected. But why does the player randomly do this (shuts off when I want to power ON)? And how could it be power related? This is really bugging me.

[sojrner]

Originally Posted by Driver78

Then it's definitely not what I suspected. But why does the player randomly do this (shuts off when I want to power ON)? And how could it be power related? This is really bugging me.

I would look to what else you have connected and how CEC is implemented. If you're turning it on, and you have a chain of devices turning on with it, one of them is probably sending a signal out of sync and turning it back off. That's how I'm reading your situation anyway...

For example: my own setup has an LG display, the Panny, nVidia Shield, Xbox X, and other stuff all connected through a Sony receiver. If I turn on my display first, everything will come on in sequence that was set for the inputs last watched. (TV, Panny, and receiver) If I turn on the Panny first, it will kick on the TV and receiver as well. If I switch inputs over to the anything, all switches on/off accordingly and works well enough. If, at any time however, I turn on the Shield directly while other items are already on (not from switching inputs, but just turning it on) it will trigger the TV to turn off, which then cascades everything to turn off as well.

Something in that CEC implementation on the Shield is not syncing, and if you read about CEC you'll find that there is no mandate for how it's implemented in the spec, and each manufacturer does more or less what they want. Some work with most things, and others only work well with their own-branded items. That's why I suspect your problem is there.

Hope that helps.

[Driver78]

I have the Panny plugged directly into the wall outlet. Originally I had it plugged into a power strip but after getting feedback from others, I decided to give the player it's own dedicated outlet, although the power strip is still plugged into the same receptacle.

I don't use Universal remotes. I power each piece of hardware individually using their own remote. I don't route any electronics through my receiver since I don't believe doing so is wise.