DIY Subwoofer Risers

[Big Daddy]

Originally Posted by 28BlusLater

I have the SVS PB12-NSD and am thinking about getting a subwoofer riser from Elemental Designs. I got a new AV rack (not yet in the HT gallery) and my center channel is now at ear level and WOW, what a difference.
My front speakers are a little under ear level, I'd say a few inches. Are risers recommended?
Is there an easy way to make risers for my fronts and if there is an easy way to make one for my SVS PB12-NSD, I'd love to know to save the $65 on the sub riser. However, I'm pretty bad with building stuff, so I'd need to find basically a full step by step. I went through a few pages of this thread and can't find a riser that will hold my subwoofer since it's not just heavy, but pretty long.
I got an e-mail back from Elemental Designs. They say that the riser for the A5-350 will best fit my subwoofer.
Here's the link:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...roducts_id=945
What do you guys think?
Just as a side note, my room has carpeted floors.

A while ago, I built a huge 15" subwoofer with an enclosure that was special ordered from ED and a Dayton Titanic driver. The box was huge and heavy. The dimensions were:

28" Deep
20" Wide
25" Tall
Volume: 5.75 Cubic Feet

Just to put things in perspective in order to understand how big that enclosure was, compare it with the dimensions of these popular subwoofers.

ED A2 - 300 Subwoofer (12"), $350:
Dimensions : W 18.00", H 18.00", D 21.5"

ED A5 - 350 Subwoofer (15"), $800:
Dimensions : W 19.00", H 25.00", D 24.75"

ED A7S - 450 Subwoofer (18"), $850:
Dimensions : W 22.25", H 22.25", D 22.25"

ED A7 - 350 Subwoofer (15"), $1,200:
Dimensions : W - 20.0", H - 28.0", D - 24.0"

AV123 MFW -15 (15"), $799:
Size: (H x D x W): 23.94" x 22.44" x 18.125"

SVS PB12-Plus (12"), $1,150:
Size: Approx. 25” deep x 19" wide x 21" high.

HSU ULS-15 (15"), $$1,300 to $1,400:
Dimensions 18.875" (h) X 18" (w) X 19.25" (d)

There was absolutely no way to carry such a big and heavy subwoofer around. So I decided to build a dolly/riser for it with 5" casters with locks. You can find information about the DIY subwoofer HERE and information about the dolly/riser HERE.

[DIY_HD]

Inspired by all the great posts here, I designed this riser to prevent any resonant vibrations. It's as solid as a rock and weighs 130 pounds (Est). WARNING: If you build this, make sure you have someone to help you move it. If you dropped this on your foot, it would crush every bone in it. You would probably injure your back as well.

Undaunted, I set about to raise and decouple my sub in such a way that there would be no buzzing, humming, or rattling. I designed it around the size of a cinder block (8" x 8" x 16") which when laid side by side ended up being pretty near the perfect size for my sub. If your sub is larger, you could insert some additional 2x4s between the blocks or on the ends to extend it.

First I got 4 cinder blocks (about $1.25 each at Home Depot).



I cut four 2x4s the same height as the blocks stacked up (about 16"). I ripped them down to 2.5" wide so they would fit easily between the feet. If you don't have a table saw, you could use 2x2s. I used a bungie cord to hold them in place, but you can use masking tape instead. Cut a piece of plywood the width of the cinder blocks. I cut them a half-inch longer on each end, but if you don't intend to cover it, you can cut it flush to the 2x4s and run the end panel all the way down covering the plywood.



Pre-drilling 7/64" holes and using 2" drywall screws, I attached the bottom to the 2x4s.



I then removed the bungie cord and placed the base on an old piece of carpet. Since I had sanded the bottom smooth with 200-grit paper, I didn't want any sand on the floor (from the cinder blocks) to scratch up the surface. I then placed the 4 cinder blocks in position between the 2x4s.



I cut the end pieces and screwed them to the 2x4s using 1 1/4" drywall screws. I used clamps to hold everything in position, but again, you could use tape or bungie cords. I wanted the 2x4s to hold the blocks tightly, so there can be no movement. Once the ends are in place, I measured and cut the sides.



The sides I screwed to the bottom plywood and the end Medium-Density Fiberboard (MDF) panels.



After the Sides were in place, I lightly filled the spaces with microfoam to prevent them from acting as resonance chambers. Probably not necessary given the length of low frequency sound waves, but I wasn't taking any chances and I had the foam from empty boxes with the packing still in them.



I put a piece of MDF on top and traced the underside with a pencil, then cut the top. I put 2 layers of foam on top of the blocks and screwed the top on. The 4 screws that go into the 2x4s are 2" screws because those are for structural support. When screwing these I clamped the ends to get a nice, tight fit. Now all I need is some black material to cover the sides and top, kind of like a big sock.



Since I raised it from the carpet, I removed the speaker spikes and replace them with the rubber feet. How does it work? Well, the glasses in the cupboard were rattling, but the riser didn't make a peep. It's as solid as Gibraltar. It's not a SoundTrap, but it cost less than $20.

[Biggz]

I tried my hand at making sub risers. I call mine "Grampa Lites" named for Big Daddy. No Rug on these. I made them out of MDF purchased at Home Depot. The store cut them to size and I painted them Black. I used the foam corners that came with the sub. I've been thinking of using Plant Boxes since my building skills and tools are limited at this time. Would planter boxes work?

[Big Daddy]

Originally Posted by DIY_HD

Inspired by all the great posts here, I designed this riser to prevent any resonant vibrations. It's as solid as a rock and weighs 130 pounds (Est). WARNING: If you build this, make sure you have someone to help you move it. If you dropped this on your foot, it would crush every bone in it. You would probably injure your back as well.

Undaunted, I set about to raise and decouple my sub in such a way that there would be no buzzing, humming, or rattling. I designed it around the size of a cinder block (8" x 8" x 16") which when laid side by side ended up being pretty near the perfect size for my sub. If your sub is larger, you could insert some additional 2x4s between the blocks or on the ends to extend it.

First I got 4 cinder blocks (about $1.25 each at Home Depot).



I cut four 2x4s the same height as the blocks stacked up (about 16"). I ripped them down to 2.5" wide so they would fit easily between the feet. If you don't have a table saw, you could use 2x2s. I used a bungie cord to hold them in place, but you can use masking tape instead. Cut a piece of plywood the width of the cinder blocks. I cut them a half-inch longer on each end, but if you don't intend to cover it, you can cut it flush to the 2x4s and run the end panel all the way down covering the plywood.



Pre-drilling 7/64" holes and using 2" drywall screws, I attached the bottom to the 2x4s.



I then removed the bungie cord and placed the base on an old piece of carpet. Since I had sanded the bottom smooth with 200-grit paper, I didn't want any sand on the floor (from the cinder blocks) to scratch up the surface. I then placed the 4 cinder blocks in position between the 2x4s.



I cut the end pieces and screwed them to the 2x4s using 1 1/4" drywall screws. I used clamps to hold everything in position, but again, you could use tape or bungie cords. I wanted the 2x4s to hold the blocks tightly, so there can be no movement. Once the ends are in place, I measured and cut the sides.



The sides I screwed to the bottom plywood and the end Medium-Density Fiberboard (MDF) panels.



After the Sides were in place, I lightly filled the spaces with microfoam to prevent them from acting as resonance chambers. Probably not necessary given the length of low frequency sound waves, but I wasn't taking any chances and I had the foam from empty boxes with the packing still in them.



I put a piece of MDF on top and traced the underside with a pencil, then cut the top. I put 2 layers of foam on top of the blocks and screwed the top on. The 4 screws that go into the 2x4s are 2" screws because those are for structural support. When screwing these I clamped the ends to get a nice, tight fit. Now all I need is some black material to cover the sides and top, kind of like a big sock.



Since I raised it from the carpet, I removed the speaker spikes and replace them with the rubber feet. How does it work? Well, the glasses in the cupboard were rattling, but the riser didn't make a peep. It's as solid as Gibraltar. It's not a SoundTrap, but it cost less than $20.

Congratulations. That is a big kick-ass riser. How much does it weigh?

[Big Daddy]

Originally Posted by Biggz

I tried my hand at making sub risers. I call mine "Grampa Lites" named for Big Daddy. No Rug on these. I made them out of MDF purchased at Home Depot. The store cut them to size and I painted them Black. I used the foam corners that came with the sub. I've been thinking of using Plant Boxes since my building skills and tools are limited at this time. Would planter boxes work?

That is a nice riser. I am glad you didn't call it "Big Daddy Lite".

[crazyBLUE]

Originally Posted by Big Daddy

That is a nice riser. I am glad you didn't call it "Big Daddy Lite".

That was good


The riser does look good, Glad I didn't have to move it....

[DIY_HD]

Originally Posted by Big Daddy

Congratulations. That is a big kick-ass riser. How much does it weigh?

I didn't actually weigh it. Cinder blocks average 29 pounds each. So I estimate that it weighs about 130 pounds. I had to get my son to help me carry it up from my basement workshop. It's not going anywhere, no matter how loud I play the sub.

[Badas]

Originally Posted by DIY_HD

I didn't actually weigh it. Cinder blocks average 29 pounds each. So I estimate that it weighs about 130 pounds. I had to get my son to help me carry it up from my basement workshop. It's not going anywhere, no matter how loud I play the sub.

Wicked job.

Ta Dono

[anthdan]

Thanks for all the great information. I am planning on building a riser for my BIC V1220 this weekend. The volume is greater standing up than sitting down in the main seating locations so I am hoping changing the vertical plane helps. My question is - I have 1/2 inch plywood and heavy carpet pad available and was wondering if this will work or should I purchase MDF and foam. Planning on mounting on 2 x 6 "legs". Thanks

[Big Daddy]

Originally Posted by anthdan

Thanks for all the great information. I am planning on building a riser for my BIC V1220 this weekend. The volume is greater standing up than sitting down in the main seating locations so I am hoping changing the vertical plane helps. My question is - I have 1/2 inch plywood and heavy carpet pad available and was wondering if this will work or should I purchase MDF and foam. Planning on mounting on 2 x 6 "legs". Thanks

Good quality plywood can work for building a speaker/subwoofer or a riser. I recently built a couple of speakers with plywood. I used full-range drivers in them and they sound excellent.

[DIY_HD]

Originally Posted by Big Daddy

Good quality plywood can work for building a speaker/subwoofer or a riser. I recently built a couple of speakers with plywood. I used full-range drivers in them and they sound excellent.

That's an awesome design and construction, BD! Superbly crafted, really. To get all those angles nice and tight must have been a real challenge! I don't see any screws. Given that you used butt joinery, did you use biscuits and glue?

[Big Daddy]

Originally Posted by DIY_HD

That's an awesome design and construction, BD! Superbly crafted, really. To get all those angles nice and tight must have been a real challenge! I don't see any screws. Given that you used butt joinery, did you use biscuits and glue?

I used only wood glue, clamps, and lots of patience. Surprisingly, I had a more difficult time putting the second speaker together. I suppose practice makes you worse.

[MaCruz]

This thread is bad. Very.....very bad. I can't believe people would spend extra money and their time on something that they would think will "enhance" the sound to their system.

[Show spoiler]
Well, count me in! I went the easy way out. Went to WM and bought 6 blocks of foam @ $2 a piece (Thanks to Big Daddy and his posts) I was able to raise my Lava subs about 2.5 inches off the ground. Popped in Saving Private Ryan. Damn! I'm blown away by the difference. It sure does work by elevating your sub just a few inches! I may modify it a little, but is there a place that sells black foam that's sturdy like Wal-Mart's?

It feels like I have new subs all over again even though my subs are just over a month old.

Also, I didn't take out the shrink wrap either.

[crazyBLUE]

you need to raise them Cruz ~ Not put pads under them

Raise them up a foot or so

[MaCruz]

Originally Posted by crazyBLUE

you need to raise them Cruz ~ Not put pads under them

Raise them up a foot or so

Haha. Well it sounds better, but I'll think of something.

[crazyBLUE]

Originally Posted by MaCruz

Haha. Well it sounds better, but I'll think of something.

If you need help ~ Big Daddy is always full of ideas I might have one or two myself

Just be creative with it & you can make them look good

[nezff]

I'm still wondering about this. I talked to Johnny blaze if it helped him, he said it wasn't night and day but he said it helped a little

[MaCruz]

Originally Posted by crazyBLUE

If you need help ~ Big Daddy is always full of ideas I might have one or two myself

Just be creative with it & you can make them look good

Ha, a foot seems a bit extreme. The 3 inches I have off the floor makes the audio sound a bit deeper. I think I'm fine for now. I hope.

[droopdog7]

Hey guys (and ladies?),

I am brand new to this forum and have only recently learned about the option of using some kind of a riser. But before I get too far, I will admit that the wife factor is in full effect.

Anyway, I have several issues with my set up. I have wood floors with the sub sitting on the floor. I have small Martin Logan bookshelf speakers (Motion 4) sitting on top on my TV console. Same with the Martin Logan Center. To add to that, the three front speakers are about 10" from the front edge of the console.

And one final point: I am not particularly handy nor to I have tools to build anything complicated.

So is there a relatively easy solution for me to raise the height of the front speakers to at minimum reduce diffraction. Can I put them on top of a book? Maybe a piece of styrofoam (that I found at Walmart)?

And is there a relatively easy solution to get the sub off the floor? Can I put it on top of styrofoam or just some wood blocks?

In the end, is there a cheap and easy solution that would help me at least a little bit?

[MAL01]

[As interesting as this riser looks to me, would it be any more effective than a subdude or great gamma?

QUOTE=DIY_HD;4294142]Inspired by all the great posts here, I designed this riser to prevent any resonant vibrations. It's as solid as a rock and weighs 130 pounds (Est). WARNING: If you build this, make sure you have someone to help you move it. If you dropped this on your foot, it would crush every bone in it. You would probably injure your back as well.

Undaunted, I set about to raise and decouple my sub in such a way that there would be no buzzing, humming, or rattling. I designed it around the size of a cinder block (8" x 8" x 16") which when laid side by side ended up being pretty near the perfect size for my sub. If your sub is larger, you could insert some additional 2x4s between the blocks or on the ends to extend it.

First I got 4 cinder blocks (about $1.25 each at Home Depot).



I cut four 2x4s the same height as the blocks stacked up (about 16"). I ripped them down to 2.5" wide so they would fit easily between the feet. If you don't have a table saw, you could use 2x2s. I used a bungie cord to hold them in place, but you can use masking tape instead. Cut a piece of plywood the width of the cinder blocks. I cut them a half-inch longer on each end, but if you don't intend to cover it, you can cut it flush to the 2x4s and run the end panel all the way down covering the plywood.



Pre-drilling 7/64" holes and using 2" drywall screws, I attached the bottom to the 2x4s.



I then removed the bungie cord and placed the base on an old piece of carpet. Since I had sanded the bottom smooth with 200-grit paper, I didn't want any sand on the floor (from the cinder blocks) to scratch up the surface. I then placed the 4 cinder blocks in position between the 2x4s.



I cut the end pieces and screwed them to the 2x4s using 1 1/4" drywall screws. I used clamps to hold everything in position, but again, you could use tape or bungie cords. I wanted the 2x4s to hold the blocks tightly, so there can be no movement. Once the ends are in place, I measured and cut the sides.



The sides I screwed to the bottom plywood and the end Medium-Density Fiberboard (MDF) panels.



After the Sides were in place, I lightly filled the spaces with microfoam to prevent them from acting as resonance chambers. Probably not necessary given the length of low frequency sound waves, but I wasn't taking any chances and I had the foam from empty boxes with the packing still in them.



I put a piece of MDF on top and traced the underside with a pencil, then cut the top. I put 2 layers of foam on top of the blocks and screwed the top on. The 4 screws that go into the 2x4s are 2" screws because those are for structural support. When screwing these I clamped the ends to get a nice, tight fit. Now all I need is some black material to cover the sides and top, kind of like a big sock.



Since I raised it from the carpet, I removed the speaker spikes and replace them with the rubber feet. How does it work? Well, the glasses in the cupboard were rattling, but the riser didn't make a peep. It's as solid as Gibraltar. It's not a SoundTrap, but it cost less than $20.

[/QUOTE]