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#1 |
Active Member
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I've had a FP setup for about 6 months now, and have been very happy with it. Now the the initial novelty of it has worn off, I am getting tired of seeing the black bars on my 16:9 screen. So, I have been thinking about upgrading to a 2.35:1 screen and getting masking material for 1.85:1 media.
I did some online research, and also can't seem to locate my manual, and haven't been able to answer my question yet: can my HC-1600 throw a 2.35:1 or 2.4:1 image? My Draper screen can easily be pulled down less for a 2.35:1 image, but I have been thinking about a permanent 2.35:1 screen. Anyone have any help for me? I am trying to see if this is worth pursuing. I don't really want to upgrade the projector - it's hardly been used - just the screen. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance! |
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#2 |
Expert Member
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I don't think the HC-1600 has a v-stretch mode, but I'm not sure. If it does not, and you don't want to spring for an outboard video processor that does and/or an anamorphic lens; then the only way to achieve a "black-bar-less" image with the HC-1600 is to zoom the image so that the bars are outside of the screen frame so that the image completely fills a 2.35 or 2.40 AR screen.
You can answer your own question very easily by zooming your image size so that a 2.35 or 2.40:1 AR image/movie completely fills the height of your desired size 2.35 or 2.40:1 screen. |
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#4 | |
Blu-ray Champion
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On a side note, does anyone know if the Epson tw3000 has such a strech option as eveything says it can but I cant figure out how to make it work. ![]() Last edited by Suntory_Times; 06-20-2009 at 12:26 AM. |
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#5 |
Active Member
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It certainly does make a difference if you want Constant Height. To make 2.35 material and 1.85 material project at the same image height, a zoom range of 1.3 or better is needed.
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#6 |
Blu-ray Champion
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Are you talking about a vertical strech of 1.3 (in which case I agree with you), or a throw ratio (in whihc case I disagree with you). Though i'm expert but have used a anamorphic lense with a projector that only had a 1:1 throw.
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#7 |
Active Member
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Thank you everyone!
Brain, you have inspired me to take a look at anamorphic lenses...but given their price, is it really worth it for an entry level projector? Or should I start looking at upgrading my level? For now, I am keeping the 16:9 screen until I can get a little more information on the HC-1600. I am looking at a video processor. Could that help with the ratio? I am also considering forgoing the purchase of an HD video processor and maybe getting a second projector instead - 1080p - for my theatre, and taking the HC-1600 to setup my back room/family room with 720p front projection. I went with 720p projection for my theatre initially as it was a relatively low out of pocket investment to get started. Now, I have been considering an upgrade. Might make the jump to 1080p and invest more. But how do you tell if a projector can project a 2.35:1 image? |
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#8 |
Member
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The Mitsubishi HD 1000 (relatively inexpensive) has a 2.35:1 screen setting, which is what I'm using for my 2.35:1 screen. I don't know why they left this feature off the newer HC 1600. It does appear again on their entry level 1080p projector, though. It's a great feature that I have not seen on any other line of projector.
This setting allows you to project a constant height image for all formats without having to zoom in and out, and no anamorphic lens is required. I love it as I prefer to give preference to 2.35:1 movies over all other content. Of course, I have "black bars" on the sides now for television and 1:85:1 movies, but it's much less distracting than horizontal bars. I will never go back to a 16x9 screen. |
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#10 | |
Active Member
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No, the HC-1600 does not have a setting for 2.35:1. In my post above, in the "REAL" setting, I was able to minimize the black bars on a 16:9 screen, at the time of the post, by zooming a bit and using the REAL setting where I was able to reduce the size of the black bars. But I found I was missing part of the picture. The best way to do 2.35:1 with an HC-1600 is to use masking panels if you have a 16:9 screen, and zoom if you have a 2.35:1 screen. My masking panels were inexpensive and are very effective. I can change my screen to 16:9 to 2.35:1 or up to 2.4:1 within seconds. I have my projector set so I only need to tweak when switching between ratios. One of these days I will post on the details of the panels. The only drawback is that you sacrafice screen size this way. My 100" 16:9 screen turns into a 92" 2.35:1 screen - and I am able to project perfectly - and it looks perfect as the masking panels match my draping system. The HC-1600 can also zoom to 2.35:1 if you have a screen in that ratio, however you may have to reposition the projector for a 1.85:1 ratio as the throw will be different. That's why I opted to mask horizontally, so I can keep the projector in one spot. Zooming will be more challenging for the HC-1600 as I don't think the zoom range has the ability to do CIH. All in all, my setup works and I am very happy with it. It will keep this projector in my cinema for a while. Hope that helped!! |
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#11 | |
Blu-ray Baron
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#12 | |
Active Member
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If so, the REAL option won't manipulate the ratio to the degree that you need. The zoom, unfortunately, is not a wide enough range to support CIH. If you are mounting two separate screens - you may be able to mount the 16:9 as an electric at a closer distance than the 2.35:1 fixed and it MAY work. Another option is an anamorphic lens. With an Anamorphic lens, the HC-1600 can do CIH. |
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