As an Amazon associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Thanks for your support!                               
×

Best Blu-ray Movie Deals


Best Blu-ray Movie Deals, See All the Deals »
Top deals | New deals  
 All countries United States United Kingdom Canada Germany France Spain Italy Australia Netherlands Japan Mexico
Spawn 4K (Blu-ray)
$31.99
6 hrs ago
Peanuts: Ultimate TV Specials Collection (Blu-ray)
$72.99
4 hrs ago
Re-Animator 4K (Blu-ray)
$38.02
56 min ago
Back to the Future 4K (Blu-ray)
$33.99
6 hrs ago
A Nightmare on Elm Street Collection 4K (Blu-ray)
$96.99
5 hrs ago
Red Planet 4K (Blu-ray)
$38.02
7 hrs ago
Dan Curtis' Late-Night Mysteries (Blu-ray)
$20.99
1 hr ago
In the Mouth of Madness 4K (Blu-ray)
$44.73
7 hrs ago
The Rocky Horror Picture Show 4K (Blu-ray)
$37.99
2 hrs ago
The Bone Collector 4K (Blu-ray)
$22.49
1 day ago
The Life of Chuck 4K (Blu-ray)
$23.99
7 hrs ago
Weapons 4K (Blu-ray)
$27.95
 
What's your next favorite movie?
Join our movie community to find out


Image from: Life of Pi (2012)

Go Back   Blu-ray Forum > Audio > Subwoofers
Register FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-25-2010, 08:17 PM   #1441
jomari jomari is offline
Moderator
 
jomari's Avatar
 
Nov 2007
18
2
2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by abc5 View Post
i have a question about this... if some foam or acoustic foam will help the riser due better dampening, would the foam be better off instead of being underneath the mdf/plywood platform as i've seen, be placed on top of the platform, then carpeted or whatever....

it would make the top more spongy, but they sell high density foam that's really firm... and you can put those coins at the bottom of each of your sub spikes so the spikes dont punch through over time.
foam doesnt work as efficient as fiberglass or polyfill, when it comes to the lower frequencies. it can deflect or diffuse but doesnt absorb anything.
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2010, 08:38 PM   #1442
abc5 abc5 is offline
Junior Member
 
Apr 2010
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Daddy View Post
I posted Big Daddy's rule of thumb on the ED thread. I will post it here again.

Rule of thumb:
  • An average home in the U.S. has a ceiling about 8ft high.
  • Rule of 25: It is normally a good idea to put the sub approximately up to 25% away from the boundaries. For a riser, it means ceiling & floor.
  • 8ft x 0.25 = 2ft.
  • Raise your subwoofer approximately 2ft or less. You can also try to hang it 2ft away from the ceiling, but do it at your own risk. The WAF is waiting.
hey quest BD.... 2ft off the floor... how about a wall... does it also need to be away from a wall?
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2010, 12:13 AM   #1443
jomari jomari is offline
Moderator
 
jomari's Avatar
 
Nov 2007
18
2
2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by abc5 View Post
hey quest BD.... 2ft off the floor... how about a wall... does it also need to be away from a wall?
yes, applying the quarter wall to avoid room interaction with the subwoofer.
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2010, 12:26 AM   #1444
crazyBLUE crazyBLUE is offline
Moderator
 
crazyBLUE's Avatar
 
Aug 2008
Pacific Northwest
89
479
1
38
30
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by abc5 View Post
so back to the questions

does a riser platform need to be built, or just find 4 posts that can serve as 4 legs as long as they can be screwed into the bottom of the sub, acting like 4 long spikes? i'm seeing pics of a custom riser, plus long pegs on the sub replacing standard spikes...are both necessary?
No ~ Both are not necessary , That is something I just did & it really gave me insight as to how a subwoofer higher up would sound !

Do you mean this as for the legs you see , Remember I am crazy ~ But its a good crazy .




I have 3 subs on tall risers now ~ 14 , 19 & 28 inches off the floor . I say the higher the better , But thats just my opinion
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2010, 12:27 AM   #1445
Big Daddy Big Daddy is offline
Blu-ray Champion
 
Big Daddy's Avatar
 
Jan 2008
Southern California
79
122
1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by abc5 View Post
hey quest BD.... 2ft off the floor... how about a wall... does it also need to be away from a wall?
A wall is a boundary and the 25% rule applies to all boundaries. Basically, the 25 percent rule is a rule of thumb to avoid energizing the first harmonic of the axial mode. In some situations, depending on the dimensions of the room, the 25% point may fall in the minimum point of the second harmonic. It may be better to move the subwoofer a bit more away from the boundary. For more detailed explanation and diagrams, read https://forum.blu-ray.com/subwoofers...oom-modes.html.
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2010, 05:27 PM   #1446
abc5 abc5 is offline
Junior Member
 
Apr 2010
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyBLUE View Post
No ~ Both are not necessary , That is something I just did & it really gave me insight as to how a subwoofer higher up would sound !

Do you mean this as for the legs you see , Remember I am crazy ~ But its a good crazy .




I have 3 subs on tall risers now ~ 14 , 19 & 28 inches off the floor . I say the higher the better , But thats just my opinion

so you have 3 subs w/ standard cone spikes, just tall risers?

my sub placement is gonna be alot like your picture, where it's on the left side of the whole entertainment platform, lcd being center, with a wall like yours on the left of the sub. my left wall is about say, 5 feet wide, before connecting to the large backwall.... you think i'll need some of that acoustic foam as well? I'm gonna be able to give my sub 1 feet away from the back wall, but I probably can only give 2 inches gap away from the left wall. to the right of my sub would be my left front tower, the most i can give between the sub and my left tower is 1 inch... is this really a bad situation, should I put foam between the sub and the left tower?
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2010, 12:04 AM   #1447
crazyBLUE crazyBLUE is offline
Moderator
 
crazyBLUE's Avatar
 
Aug 2008
Pacific Northwest
89
479
1
38
30
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by abc5 View Post
so you have 3 subs w/ standard cone spikes, just tall risers?

my sub placement is gonna be alot like your picture, where it's on the left side of the whole entertainment platform, lcd being center, with a wall like yours on the left of the sub. my left wall is about say, 5 feet wide, before connecting to the large backwall.... you think i'll need some of that acoustic foam as well? I'm gonna be able to give my sub 1 feet away from the back wall, but I probably can only give 2 inches gap away from the left wall. to the right of my sub would be my left front tower, the most i can give between the sub and my left tower is 1 inch... is this really a bad situation, should I put foam between the sub and the left tower?
You will not need foam between the sub & left tower abc . Big Daddy taught me that the subwoofer is made to blend with the speakers .Do what BD & jomari have suggested to you , They are the experts at this !! Good luck & hope you can find the sweet spot for the sub .
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2010, 05:07 AM   #1448
vsidhu vsidhu is offline
Senior Member
 
Oct 2008
198
40
2
Default

I'm back! I've been busy with mcat stuff, but I managed to finish my riser. I've still got to attach the polyfill at the bottom and get a nice thick piece of high density foam for the top. There is polyfill in between each layer (not visible) and the feet will have furniture pads. I've still got to work the finish with very fine steel wool. If it doesn't work out well as a riser at least I'll have a fancy side table for my drink


Last edited by vsidhu; 07-01-2010 at 07:39 AM. Reason: pic size
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2010, 05:09 AM   #1449
vsidhu vsidhu is offline
Senior Member
 
Oct 2008
198
40
2
Default

pic size

sorry
  Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 04:28 AM   #1450
Big Daddy Big Daddy is offline
Blu-ray Champion
 
Big Daddy's Avatar
 
Jan 2008
Southern California
79
122
1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vsidhu View Post
pic size

sorry
You can use a picture editing program and decrease the width of the pictures to 700 or less pixels. If you do that, the pictures will become easier to see and we won't need to scroll to the right or left. Don't adjust the height as the editing program automatically sets it.
  Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2010, 11:21 PM   #1451
mcdev mcdev is offline
Member
 
May 2010
Default

Hey guys. Lots of great information here, it is almost overwhelming.

I am thinking about building a riser/decoupler. I understand most of details but I have a question about the top of the stand. If I were to use solid plywood, would I benefit from covering it with some foam, insulation or rock wool or will some carpet be sufficient? By my way of thinking, it makes sense to add a dampening layer to the surface directly below the sub (a down firing ED A2-300).

How about this thought. Instead of a solid top surface, I cut out the center to allow the sound from the sub travel through the dampening material below. This material could be insulation, foam or rock wool as well.

Which materials are ideal for filling the void underneath the stand? With or without the hole in the top, is acoustic foam the best solution or is rock wool a good option. If acoustic foam is the preferred option, should it be egg crate or the more rigid type?

Thanks for the help and I look forward to getting this project underway!
  Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2010, 11:26 PM   #1452
mcdev mcdev is offline
Member
 
May 2010
Default

Just of the sake of providing the most information that might be helpful to answer my question....

As of right now, my design is a box with the side stopping about an inch or so from the floor, on rubber isolation feet. I plan on using plywood for the sides and top with 2x2 stock as backing/legs in the corners. I intend to fill the void with a dampening material and potentially cover the top with an additional layer of dampening material and carpet while keeping the bottom of the sub about 1 1/2" from the top of the riser. The carpet will stop at the top and I will paint the rest of it black. The plan is to screw and glue all joints to reduce vibration and provide a fairly robust construction.
  Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2010, 11:31 PM   #1453
crazyBLUE crazyBLUE is offline
Moderator
 
crazyBLUE's Avatar
 
Aug 2008
Pacific Northwest
89
479
1
38
30
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcdev View Post
Just of the sake of providing the most information that might be helpful to answer my question....

As of right now, my design is a box with the side stopping about an inch or so from the floor, on rubber isolation feet. I plan on using plywood for the sides and top with 2x2 stock as backing/legs in the corners. I intend to fill the void with a dampening material and potentially cover the top with an additional layer of dampening material and carpet while keeping the bottom of the sub about 1 1/2" from the top of the riser. The carpet will stop at the top and I will paint the rest of it black. The plan is to screw and glue all joints to reduce vibration and provide a fairly robust construction.
Do you mean something like this . I built this one for my 10 inch sub ?

& do put a layer of carpet on top .





  Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2010, 11:43 PM   #1454
mcdev mcdev is offline
Member
 
May 2010
Default

Yeah, something like that, only with solid sides. Have you found that to work better than a solid top, or a solid top with dampening material?
  Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2010, 11:48 PM   #1455
crazyBLUE crazyBLUE is offline
Moderator
 
crazyBLUE's Avatar
 
Aug 2008
Pacific Northwest
89
479
1
38
30
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcdev View Post
Yeah, something like that, only with solid sides. Have you found that to work better than a solid top, or a solid top with dampening material?
I put the hole in the top because the sub that is on it is a front firing & the bass port is on the bottom . I don't think it made a difference for me . For you with the eD being a down firing sub I wouldn't put the hole in the top . I would just put a layer of carpet on the top of the stand .
  Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2010, 05:59 PM   #1456
rickdeth rickdeth is offline
Active Member
 
rickdeth's Avatar
 
Jan 2009
Canada
11
25
620
249
Default

I decided after reading on here and being cheap and not wanting to spend money on an auralex subdude, that i should just make a sub-riser.

Anyways made one, painted it up and bought some foam from wal-mart. I have 2, 2" thick pieces of foam underneath the riser. Ill have to demo some more stuff tonight to see if i can hear any results.

Thanks for the info fellas!
  Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2010, 06:05 PM   #1457
bobbydrugar bobbydrugar is offline
Special Member
 
bobbydrugar's Avatar
 
Jul 2010
San Francisco CA
48
1049
427
Default

Random question I have seen many different variations on custom sub risers and was just wondering is there any metric to determine how tall the riser should be or does it even matter and it just needs to be isolated from the floor?

Thanks,
T
  Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2010, 06:45 PM   #1458
kareface kareface is offline
Senior Member
 
kareface's Avatar
 
Jul 2009
Seattle, Wa
159
1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbydrugar View Post
Random question I have seen many different variations on custom sub risers and was just wondering is there any metric to determine how tall the riser should be or does it even matter and it just needs to be isolated from the floor?

Thanks,
T
You can't know with out a mic. The best thing you can do is try propping it up at that height and listen yourself to see if it's any better. I would like to add, I love bigdaddy, and I agree with 99.99% of what he says. However (of course following that there has to be a "however"), I don't completely agree with the 25% rule. I know where it's coming from, the white paper with the quad sub positioning. The problem is this rarely seems to translate over to 1 or 2 subs in my experience and room dimensions and listening position play a critical role in any acoustic situation. I've found for avoiding standing waves odd ratios tend to be better, but nulls or peaks at the listening position is never going to be the same. You have to just test it out before you build, otherwise you might end up making the situation worse.
  Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2010, 07:58 PM   #1459
jomari jomari is offline
Moderator
 
jomari's Avatar
 
Nov 2007
18
2
2
Default

i like using the quarter rule, but as a guideline towards placement on a horizontal plane. in general it works, but not as efficient with vertical (or rising the sub) concerns.

as always, any calibration is 'incomplete' without using an SPL meter.
  Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2010, 08:03 PM   #1460
bobbydrugar bobbydrugar is offline
Special Member
 
bobbydrugar's Avatar
 
Jul 2010
San Francisco CA
48
1049
427
Default

Appriciate all the help I Will just experiment then to see what works out best

Thanks,
T
  Reply With Quote
Reply
Go Back   Blu-ray Forum > Audio > Subwoofers

Similar Threads
thread Forum Thread Starter Replies Last Post
DIY Subwoofer Building, Repairing, & Upgrading Subwoofers Big Daddy 1127 09-07-2015 02:10 AM
Speaker Risers Speakers Go Blue 46 03-10-2010 01:24 AM
i dont understand "risers" . . . Subwoofers backtothecanvas 7 12-06-2009 06:22 AM
Subwoofer Risers Subwoofers Chizzap30 1 09-09-2009 07:42 AM
Do I need risers? Home Theater General Discussion theater seats chairs 1 05-21-2009 01:56 PM



Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 01:58 PM.